You're over thinking it. Most riders have been at it a while and the ABS never cycles. We do it with the lever. If you never use the ABS, the fluid stays stagnant in that loop and the motor never turns. Fact of life. On my 4 wheeled vehicles, the ABS gets cycled all winter long, Mother Nature helps us with that. Some bikes that do a self check are looking at the electronics, I do not believe they cycle the motor, my experience is strictly Yamaha however.Dogdaze said:While I find this an interesting topic, I also find it totally unacceptable that we (motorcycle riders) accept this to be "normal"..... It is not! I hate that we have to accept sub-standard equipment on bikes. I have owned many vehicles over my lifetime and only bikes have issues. I own a BMW SUV, I bought it, I get in and drive it, I don't have to worry if the ABS pump may fail, or make it 'cycle' to ensure that it does at some point in the future when I'm hurtling down a mountain pass with the kids on board. I don't worry that the lights may fail, or the wheel nuts need checking after a few hundred miles until they 'bed' in or that the CCT may fail and implode. Or that strange vibration can be cured with an updated clutch basket, the list can go on, and not just the S10, but all bikes. And it's not the cost either, as my car costs 5 times more than the S10 (like for like new) but it is also 5 times more than the S10 in terms of features, comfort and reliability. I did not have to change the screen because of wind noise or buffeting. And most of all, the customer service is second to none, not like Yamaha or it's dealers. I ride for fun and stress relief, I like riding, so I don't want to be bothered about an impending potential failure, where is the fun in that? ::009:: Normal programming will resume shortly.....
good info Limey,limey said:My ABS unit packed in at around 30,000km and had it replaced at the first Colorado rally and lost 3 days riding because of Yamaha Canada had the dealer trouble shooting the problem. My unit was sucking in air to the rear brakes only so after bleeding the brakes it would only last a few hrs at the best. It was replaced under warranty. What I did find was the drain hole in the plastic housing the the unit sits in is to small and was plugged up with mud and then the rain had no place to go so the unit was sitting in water. I ended up drilling 2 larger holes in the plastic housing.
You can in effect, bleed the entire system in the traditional manor and then perform the simple ABS test with a paperclip. Bleed the system once again and basically you have flushed the entire system.gv550 said:I'm relatively new to the Super Tenere world, but I've read the factory service manual and there is no procedure for bleeding or replacing the fluid in the ABS unit. The brake system is bled by using the bleeders on the brake calipers, I don't think there is a bleeder on the ABS unit. There is no Yamaha special tool listed to bleed the ABS unit, only a test adapter to check the operation of the ABS.
I also have a 2009 Kawasaki Voyager, it has a similar ABS unit with power boost and front to rear linking depending on speed. This bike has 357,000 miles on original ABS components without issue, I service the system using only the caliper bleeders as recommended by Kawasaki, but I do replace the brake fluid twice a year rather than once in two years stated in the manual.
Replacing the brake fluid is easy to do and very inexpensive, and I'm amazed at how dirty it gets considering it's a sealed system. Change it often and you will likely never have a problem with any component. ::009::
I'd also like to add a tip for ALL ABS SYSTEMS...avoid pushing dirty fluid from calipers back thru the ABS unit and into the reservoirs.EricV said:As KevHunts has stated, there actually is a procedure for cycling the ABS unit. Yamaha uses a test lead, anyone can do it with a short piece of wire or paperclip to ground the test wires and follow the outlined procedure in the FSM.
Or, just take a short ride and engage the ABS system a few times. Easy enough to do in a gravel parking lot at low speeds even. They just as Kev said, do another flush/bleed and you've got fresh fluid in the entire system.
Part of the reason ABS valve blocks fail, due to that gunk and old fluid sitting in the valve, is because most people never engage the ABS. You should be engaging the ABS a few times a year, at minimum, just to cycle the fluid.
You are correct, I believe mine became plugged on my Deadhorse trip as we had lots of rain on the way up.greg the pole said:good info Limey,
so the plastic tray under the ABS needs a bigger hole drilled?
That is good advice, along with using the ABS regularly.Kevhunts said:I'd also like to add a tip for ALL ABS SYSTEMS...avoid pushing dirty fluid from calipers back thru the ABS unit and into the reservoirs.
If you are changing brake pads,(you should change your brake fluid too!) crack the caliper bleeder screws and let the dirty fluid escape when pushing pistons back to make room for the new pads. Don't push that dirty fluid back thru the ABS valves or you are just asking for trouble down the road.
That could be extreme overkill depending on your brake use and how fast you go through pads. Brake fluid doesn't really get dirty with use as much as the fluid retains moisture with age/exposure and degrades. Every time you open your brake reservoirs you are allowing additional moisture to enter the closed system. Better IMO to push the pistons back only when changing pads and then do your bi annual fluid flush/changes.Kevhunts said:...
If you are changing brake pads,(you should change your brake fluid too!) crack the caliper bleeder screws and let the dirty fluid escape when pushing pistons back to make room for the new pads. Don't push that dirty fluid back thru the ABS valves or you are just asking for trouble down the road.
The "dirt" I refer to is not from external sources but rather the slow degradation of rubber components inside the system that give you that black sooty appearance and darkening of the fluid. You definitely do not want that stuff floating around in your ABS system.SilverBullet said:That could be extreme overkill depending on your brake use and how fast you go through pads. Brake fluid doesn't really get dirty with use as much as the fluid retains moisture with age/exposure and degrades. Every time you open your brake reservoirs you are allowing additional moisture to enter the closed system. Better IMO to push the pistons back only when changing pads and then do your bi annual fluid flush/changes.
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My understanding was always that the fluid darkening was due to moisture. My 2013 bought Jan '15 still has clear fluid, 3 rear pad changes and once in the front. But I've never cracked the system open yet. Due for a flush currently with other maintenance as well. I also agree with you on regular maintenance and prefer to do things myself for peace of mind knowing it was done right. But I know more than one acquaintances that did brake maintenance only to botch it and caused a serious accident with life threatening injuries first ride after. For them "if it ain't broke don't fix it" would be safer.Kevhunts said:The "dirt" I refer to is not from external sources but rather the slow degradation of rubber components inside the system that give you that black sooty appearance and darkening of the fluid. You definitely do not want that stuff floating around in your ABS system.
Yes some may view changing fluid at pad changes as overkill, but brake fluid is cheap, my life on two wheels is not. My philosophy is riding a motorcycle is risky, maybe even dangerous. I want every advantage I can get to reduce that risk.
I guess it comes down to whats most important to you the individual.
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I always thought this as well, so I mixed some brake fluid with water. It didn't darken. So I left that fluid sit open to the air for a few months. It didn't darken. I don't know what causes break fluid to darken, break down of soft goods or exposure to heat, but I don't think it is solely moisture.SilverBullet said:My understanding was always that the fluid darkening was due to moisture.
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