Wheel Removal Procedure?

[jajpko]

The 1/2 thread rod connector I found is about 17.5 mm, the 5/8 spark plug socket is almost 19mm outside.

I've got one, and it works ok.. I'll measure it in the morning. It should be 19mm.
Maybe the one for Canucks is smaller... ::025:: Just kidding..

 

[kraigd]

I am glad I read this thread and one on ADV before starting this project. Lots of great info. This rear wheel is no harder to deal with than any other bike I have owned. The first time is always a learning curve. The one thing that I found makes all the diff in the world is run a strap over your seat and around the rim to take the pressure off the axel. This also makes putting back together much easier. Set the wheel back on the hub and run the axel in without putting brake or spacers back in. Then strap it in place and remove axel. Now I had two hands to put everthing back together, very easy. Someone wrote they had trouble putting the axel back in. If you look in the hub you will see a part that floats in the middle, I stuck my finger in the hole and centered it. The axel went in no problem. As for the rubber damper in the hub I sprayed a little Teflon chain lube on the parts and it went together no problem. This product will not damage the rubber. The rest off this info was posted on ADV by WASP and is a must read. Thank you Wasp.

Originally Posted by Wasp
The washer does go between the swing-arm and the caliper mount... Outboard of the caliper and against the head of the rear axle bolt.

The rear swing-arm is assembled similar to a set of front forks. The axle is tightened against the final drive side and floats in the right hand side until tightened by the pinch bolt. This removes compressive stresses from the swing-arm.
At assembly, tighten the axle pinch bolt on the R/H side of the swing-arm, fully tighten the axle nut (final drive side), then loosen the axle pinch bolt and tap the top of the swing arm several times with a rubber/nylon mallet to allow the swing-arm to spring back un-stressed.

 

[Tremor38]

I am glad I read this thread and one on ADV before starting this project. Lots of great info. This rear wheel is no harder to deal with than any other bike I have owned. The first time is always a learning curve. The one thing that I found makes all the diff in the world is run a strap over your seat and around the rim to take the pressure off the axel. This also makes putting back together much easier. Set the wheel back on the hub and run the axel in without putting brake or spacers back in. Then strap it in place and remove axel. Now I had two hands to put everthing back together, very easy. Someone wrote they had trouble putting the axel back in. If you look in the hub you will see a part that floats in the middle, I stuck my finger in the hole and centered it. The axel went in no problem. As for the rubber damper in the hub I sprayed a little Teflon chain lube on the parts and it went together no problem. This product will not damage the rubber. The rest off this info was posted on ADV by WASP and is a must read. Thank you Wasp.

Originally Posted by Wasp
The washer does go between the swing-arm and the caliper mount... Outboard of the caliper and against the head of the rear axle bolt.

The rear swing-arm is assembled similar to a set of front forks. The axle is tightened against the final drive side and floats in the right hand side until tightened by the pinch bolt. This removes compressive stresses from the swing-arm.
At assembly, tighten the axle pinch bolt on the R/H side of the swing-arm, fully tighten the axle nut (final drive side), then loosen the axle pinch bolt and tap the top of the swing arm several times with a rubber/nylon mallet to allow the swing-arm to spring back un-stressed.

Very good info. Especially the tip about using the strap around the seat. I'll be putting that to use.

 

[Mike Sisson]

Just got done with my tire/wheel change, and I ran into some of the same issues reported here earllier when the cush rubbers and cush hub assembly didn't want to stay in the wheel as I was jockeying everything into position for axle insertion. I think the key is to make sure you have the cush hub well and fully seated into the wheel hub (I used a plastic hammer) and then make sure you get the wheel completely inserted into the final drive pumpkin - basically have everything on the left side well seated - before attempting to line up the brake carrier and wheel hub plate on the right. There's also a detent on the hub plate to get lined up correctly.

I unbolted the brake torque rod at the front and loosened it at the rear.

No big deal, but not the easiest rear wheel to change either.

- Mark

+1 on this. Just swapped out the rear for a K60. (fried EXP in 3800 miles....) Had to play with the cush rubbers for a while on disassembly. Found the above procedure (along with the aforementioned strap) the way to go on assembly. Had problems with the axle insertion owing to the inner guide going astray. After trying to align it several times with a screwdriver, tried inserting the axle in the wrong way (to align things) and this did the trick. It all went back together without further hassle.

 

[EricV]

This is a long thread for an easy task. Props to The Ferret & Johnnail for recognizing the factory tool for front wheel removal, (and spark plugs). Same as on the FJR.

I'm not quite sure what the problem is for people on the rear wheel. You just grab it and lift up a bit and things slide right in/out.

Nice link on the 1/2" drive 19mm allen socket though. I made one years ago for the FJR with a cut off bit of allen wrench and a 19mm socket. Just drilled a hole thru and pined them in place. Note that the link says silver soldered in place, but I opted to pin them instead.

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontwheel.html

 

[Mike Sisson]

This is a long thread for an easy task.
I'm not quite sure what the problem is for people on the rear wheel. You just grab it and lift up a bit and things slide right in/out.

http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontwheel.html

The point of the thread is to help people out that may not be overly familiar with wheel removal. (Yes, I am familiar with wheel removal...the S10 being about the 55th bike I've owned over 43 years of riding.....) If yours came out without problem...kudos. Mine came out in pieces with the cush drive rubbers preventing removal without some fiddling. Fortunately, people had documented this and thus I was prepared. Have now glued the cush rubbers in place for the next iteration of wheel removal. I appreciate people noting any complications of ANY routine maintenance/care item thus saving me some angst and hassle...which is, again, the point of this thread....

 

[freeflow]

Went to Home Depot and bought the Coupler and it fits like it was made for the axles. $1.41 with sales tax in Sacramento. If you have not bought the Coupler you must already have a $20 tool. I am getting a second one for the garage and leaving this one on the Super Tenere. Thanks to whoever suggested this tool. It is in true KLR (cheap, frugal) spirit. ::008::

ok, I bought 2 1/2" threaded rod couplers (not from home depot)..they are way too small..I tried the 5/8 coupler, it is too big...

maybe home depot's is special?

 

[EricV]

What you're looking for is one that's 3/4" wide, (19mm). Did you buy a coupler nut for 1/2" thread? Most seem to have outside dimensions that work for the axle, but likely some don't, considering the outsoursing to Maylasia, Vietnam, etc.

Perhaps just try another local store? Or go to the local pawn shop and look for a spark plug socket that has a 3/4 hex on the top and the square drive hole all the way thru so you can insert a 3" extension backwards into the socket and use that.

 

[EricV]

Have now glued the cush rubbers in place for the next iteration of wheel removal.

DaFoole - I'm curious as to how this held up when you pulled the wheel the next time? I tried a little RTV silicone and next time I pulled the wheel none of the rubber blocks were still attached, though the RTV was stuck nicely to the hub. I just cleaned it out and re-installed w/o bothering to try again. Not sure why they didn't use the design with a retaining plate.

 

[freeflow]

What you're looking for is one that's 3/4" wide, (19mm). Did you buy a coupler nut for 1/2" thread? Most seem to have outside dimensions that work for the axle, but likely some don't, considering the outsoursing to Maylasia, Vietnam, etc.

Perhaps just try another local store? Or go to the local pawn shop and look for a spark plug socket that has a 3/4 hex on the top and the square drive hole all the way thru so you can insert a 3" extension backwards into the socket and use that.

yeah, i bought coupler nut for 1/2" treadded rod and one for 5/8" threaded rod....the 1/2" was at least a few mm too small....so now I have alomost three bucks invested in this.... ::025::...I'll try HD..

when I pulled my wheel, I used my 16mm and added a screwdriver blade to make it fit 19 mm ... O

funny thing, a few yrs ago I was gonna get a bunch of 19mm hex steel bars and have it cut to stubbs and sell them....another million dollar idea left to die

 

[Mike Sisson]

DaFoole - I'm curious as to how this held up when you pulled the wheel the next time? I tried a little RTV silicone and next time I pulled the wheel none of the rubber blocks were still attached, though the RTV was stuck nicely to the hub. I just cleaned it out and re-installed w/o bothering to try again. Not sure why they didn't use the design with a retaining plate.

Will find out soon as I've burned through my K60 and will be replacing it in the next few weeks. Will keep you posted.

 

[Tremor38]

I am with you moto. Even my old KLR tool kit provided the axle nut tools for both axles and it was a $5,000 motorcycle. The tool kit for the Super Tenere should be an embarrassment to Yamaha.

-What is the size of the Rear Axle Nut?
-What is the size of the Hex Tool for the Rear Axle?

100 percent with you on that. The tool kit is an absolute joke.

 

[EricV]

100 percent with you on that. The tool kit is an absolute joke.

Yo Tenarator12 - Where's your time machine? You're responding to a year old post. Aside from the 27mm nut, everything else is there. Maybe not the highest quality tools, but what moto ever came with high quality tools for the tool kit? Besides, it's a Yamaha, not much breaks, eh?

 

[tomatocity]

Yo Tenarator12 - Where's your time machine? You're responding to a year old post. Aside from the 27mm nut, everything else is there. Maybe not the highest quality tools, but what moto ever came with high quality tools for the tool kit? Besides, it's a Yamaha, not much breaks, eh?

19mm?

 

[EricV]

19mm?

It's there, the outside measurements of your spark plug tool are the inside measurements of your axle hex. You need to be a little creative in breaking the front loose, but it will work for that in a pinch. BTDT on the FJR, which had the same tool. I did find that I had to file some burrs off the edges to get it to fit into the axle though.

 

[tomatocity]

It's there, the outside measurements of your spark plug tool are the inside measurements of your axle hex. You need to be a little creative in breaking the front loose, but it will work for that in a pinch. BTDT on the FJR, which had the same tool. I did find that I had to file some burrs off the edges to get it to fit into the axle though.

OK Eric go tp the garage and make a video of you removing the front wheel with the stock tool kit ;D

 

[EricV]

OK Eric go tp the garage and make a video of you removing the front wheel with the stock tool kit ;D

Such a Sacto boi you are! Busy now, but will see what I can do.

Eric V

 

[Old Blue]

Thanks for this thread, fellas. It worked like a champ and now my S10 has a new pair of shoes and fresh grease.

FYI: the rear axle was bone dry and starting to rust a bit in places. This was the first rear tire removal on an 11k mile bike. Everything else had plenty of grease and looked great.

 

[Juan Valderrama]

Send me and email I will send you the images from the service manual. Jmvalderrama@yahoo.com

Juan Valderrama
XT1200Z
Broadcasting from Bogotá - Colombia.

 

[Juan Valderrama]

Send me and email I will send you the images from the service manual. Jmvalderrama@yahoo.com

Juan Valderrama
XT1200Z
Broadcasting from Bogotá - Colombia.

I'm Spanish, sorry

Juan Valderrama
XT1200Z
Broadcasting from Bogotá - Colombia.