Wheel Removal Procedure?

[colorider]

Went to Home Depot and bought the Coupler and it fits like it was made for the axles. $1.41 with sales tax in Sacramento. If you have not bought the Coupler you must already have a $20 tool. I am getting a second one for the garage and leaving this one on the Super Tenere. Thanks to whoever suggested this tool. It is in true KLR (cheap, frugal) spirit. ::008::

I all ready have a 19mm allen for the garage, but like your idea of carrying one of these in the bike for "just in case" on the road. Heading for Home Depot today!!!

 

[SisuTen]

Went to Home Depot and bought the Coupler and it fits like it was made for the axles. $1.41 with sales tax in Sacramento. If you have not bought the Coupler you must already have a $20 tool. I am getting a second one for the garage and leaving this one on the Super Tenere. Thanks to whoever suggested this tool. It is in true KLR (cheap, frugal) spirit. ::008::

This type of mindset is the antithesis of BMW culture. If you want your Super Tenere to compete with the mighty GS, you absolutely HAVE to buy the most expensive tools, gear, farkles and show some class. This negative, cheap, weak, insecure attitude will relegate the Tenere to nothing more than an oversized, overpowered KLR. Next we'll be doing the "Doohickey" on these bikes (All respect to the KLR, I love the bike).

Wait a minute, this bike IS the antithesis of the GS. Do it better, Do it CHEAPER!

S-Ten

 

[Reg IT]

Thanks for the torques Twisties

 

[3putt]

Rear axle nut is 27mm and the both axles front and rear are 19mm. I made a tool from an old sparkplug wrench by inserting a 4" extension in it backwards.

 

[colorider]

I made a tool from an old sparkplug wrench by inserting a 4" extension in it backwards.

I forgot all about this idea!! I remember seeing it on the FJR forum "way back when".

Cool!!

::003::

 

[Twisties]

Thanks for the torques Twisties

You are welcome! If someone with access to a service manual would proof them I would feel a lot better!

 

[Twisties]

Rear axle nut is 27mm and the both axles front and rear are 19mm. I made a tool from an old sparkplug wrench by inserting a 4" extension in it backwards.

Don't you have a ride report to post? ::009:: ::008::

I tried that. The hex on the back fits fine but mine won't take the extender. If anyone is actively going out buying a spark plug socket for this purpose be sure to look inside and see that it will take the extender.

 

[ptfjjj]

Don't you have a ride report to post? ::009:: ::008::

I tried that. The hex on the back fits fine but mine won't take the extender. If anyone is actively going out buying a spark plug socket for this purpose be sure to look inside and see that it will take the extender.

you could always just use a bolt that takes the same size nut as the spark plug socket, then put two nuts on the bolt and stick them into the socket and use the bolt to turn it.

 

[3putt]

I did use a small hammer to force the extension pass the foam inside to hold a sparkplug, might have to ream out a new one to get rid of some of the foam/rubber.

I did about 650 miles to/from Mountain View, Ar this pass weekend. Very Hot after 10am, but nice riding before. Loved Push Mountain and 341 (Serpent), did it twice but 2up, Super T didn't care, just flew up those twisties and Tourances worked great. Hwy 14, 9 very nice, 5 was under construction south of town and not my favorite.

Lots of deer out, one nice buck was freshly hit and on side of hwy 9 outside of Shirley, Ar. Another small buck crossed right in front of me while I was passing a car, car tried to out brake me, but failed, he still would have hit the deer first! ::012:: I was more concerned of another following, but the buck was alone.

The Super Tenere handled the complete trip with ease and I really like the Trekkers for putting/removing ease on the bike. Last thing you want to do when the temps are 100+ is park and mess around getting your luggage in the room. ::008:: RR complete.

 

[2tall]

then put two nuts on the bolt and stick them into the socket and use the bolt to turn it.

That's what I do. A bolt, a couple nuts and tack weld them together so they never come apart. Cost? A couple 'found' pieces and a few minutes of my time.

 

[dcstrom]

So - all this talk about the procedure - has anyone actually done it?

About to replace my dead Shinko
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1963.msg33958#msg33958
and pulling the rear wheel looks pretty straightforward. I disconnected things, removed the axle nut and loosened the pinch bolt. Now when I try to tap the axle out with a rubber mallet, it gets about level with the drive housing and come to a hard stop - as if it's hitting somthing. I don't know what that could be, and I don't want to hit it any harder, cos you know, I'd really like to know if it could be damaging something.

Anyone been through this?

trevor

 

[Don in Lodi]

Grab that 19mm thingy and a wrench and wiggle the axle back and forth. Preferably while pulling on, or having somebody tap on, the axle. The weight of the unsupported wheel has come down on you and bound things up. If you can lever up on the tire while wiggling the axle, things should go smoother.

 

[colorider]

Grab that 19mm thingy and a wrench and wiggle the axle back and forth. Preferably while pulling on, or having somebody tap on, the axle. The weight of the unsupported wheel has come down on you and bound things up. If you can lever up on the tire while wiggling the axle, things should go smoother.

This sounds right - very similar to the FJR rear tire removal.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Royal Star ::022::

 

[dcstrom]

Grab that 19mm thingy and a wrench and wiggle the axle back and forth. Preferably while pulling on, or having somebody tap on, the axle. The weight of the unsupported wheel has come down on you and bound things up. If you can lever up on the tire while wiggling the axle, things should go smoother.

yeah I did some of that - I guess maybe I wasn't supporting enough of the wheel weight. Will chock it up an try again.

 

[markjenn]

yeah I did some of that - I guess maybe I wasn't supporting enough of the wheel weight. Will chock it up an try again.

Shoving your foot under the rear wheel as you wiggle the axle is usually the easiest way.

- Mark

 

[yukondood]

2 options, hit the axle bolt harder or like previously mentioned ensure the tire is supported. There is a floating collar inside the wheel, so if there is too much weight on the wheel or the wheel is unsupported there will be added pressure once the axle bolt slides out of the drive line. When I pulled mine off for new tires and rotated the wheel I thought I broke something as the collar floats inside, it appears to be loose?

Went back together nice and easy, first shaft drive rear wheel I have re an re'ed- WAAY easier than chain bikes. IMHO.

 

[dcstrom]

Ok got it done - a bit fiddly and I had to use more force on the axle than I would have liked, but I'm sure it will be easier next time.

I have to say, rear wheel removal on my old R80/GS was much easier - is that ONE THING that BMW does better?

 

[markjenn]

When I pulled mine off for new tires and rotated the wheel I thought I broke something as the collar floats inside, it appears to be loose?

That's the inner bearing spacer, supposed to be loose. It's what keeps you from putting sideloads on the wheel bearings as you tighten the axle down by establishing the axle, inner races of the wheel bearings, and spacers as one rigid assembly with the wheel floating on the other races. More/less the same on bikes with axles.

- Mark

 

[thagua]

Watch out when installing back the rear wheel ... if you have trouble placing the rubber dampers in place just glue them in place with some silicon glue and spray some liquid soap on them to facilitate the insertion of the transmission fins.
My 2 cents,
Roberto aka Thagua