Wheel Removal Procedure?

[Tremor38]

Watch out when installing back the rear wheel ... if you have trouble placing the rubber dampers in place just glue them in place with some silicon glue and spray some liquid soap on them to facilitate the insertion of the transmission fins.
My 2 cents,
Roberto aka Thagua

Possible some silicone grease might work for that. Should be just enough to hold the dampers in place until you get it together.

 

[DuMar]

Watch out when installing back the rear wheel ... if you have trouble placing the rubber dampers in place just glue them in place with some silicon glue and spray some liquid soap on them to facilitate the insertion of the transmission fins.
My 2 cents,
Roberto aka Thagua

What rubber dampers?

Just finished installing new front and rear tires, but didn't notice anything left on the floor.

Mike

 

[Don in Lodi]

What rubber dampers?

Just finished installing new front and rear tires, but didn't notice anything left on the floor.

Mike

Nothing involving the torque between the differential and the wheel hub is metal on metal. I've always called it the cush drive, the sizable chunks of rubber that takes all the bang out of getting on and off the throttle.

 

[DuMar]

Nothing involving the torque between the differential and the wheel hub is metal on metal. I've always called it the cush drive, the sizable chunks of rubber that takes all the bang out of getting on and off the throttle.

Hi Don,

OK ... I see them now ... the six dampers inside the hub (checked the online parts catalog). I've seen this coupling before on other bikes, but as one piece.

Amazingly, after all the commotion involved in changing out the rear tire, the whole hub assembly stayed intact. ::013::

Mike

 

[RMac]

Lucky for you. When taking the rear off my bike the carrier stuck to the shaft sprocket allowing all the rubber dampers to move and get in the way. Became quite a fiddly exercise requiring patience. I was assisting my mechanic at the time and was quite fiddly even with four hands and the bike on a lift. I was there as active observer since I have never removed a rear on a shaft drive bike before I let him do it so I would know what to do myself next time. He also pointed out that things tend to be a little sticky at first disassemble after factory assemble. Things usually being looser and more obliging at second disassemble.

 

[DuMar]

He also pointed out that things tend to be a little sticky at first disassemble after factory assemble. Things usually being looser and more obliging at second disassemble.

Perhaps that's why mine stayed together.

Knock on wood, I won't be removing the rear again for a while. At least now I have a better understanding about what to watch out for.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[whisperquiet]

Lucky for you. When taking the rear off my bike the carrier stuck to the shaft sprocket allowing all the rubber dampers to move and get in the way. Became quite a fiddly exercise requiring patience. I was assisting my mechanic at the time and was quite fiddly even with four hands and the bike on a lift. I was there as active observer since I have never removed a rear on a shaft drive bike before I let him do it so I would know what to do myself next time. He also pointed out that things tend to be a little sticky at first disassemble after factory assemble. Things usually being looser and more obliging at second disassemble.
[/quoteto

The same thing happened to my rear wheel tonight-----------what a major PITA to remove the rear wheel when that happens.

WARNING....WARNING....WARNING to anyone who takes their rear wheel off for the first time...........when you have the caliper off and are ready to remove the driven flange/wheel assembly from the final drive...........make sure keep the cush drive/wheel all together to prevent the damper rubbers from being dislodged and jamming everything up. Otherwise, you won't have enough clearance to remove the wheel when everything comes apart.

My rear cush drive was a such a tight fit on re-assembly that I used a little NoMar tire mount lube on the cush rubbers to get the cush hub to insert correctly (and easily). I also wiped off the drive splines on the final drive and hub which were then lubed with Honda Moly 60 paste.

I will certainly be able to complete the rear wheel r/r a lot faster the next time after what I learned tonight.

And to answer the tire question...........I installed a new Bridgestone Battlewing for an upcoming trip since the OEM Metzeler Tourance EXP was 75% gone at 3150 miles (3/32" tread left).

 

[markjenn]

Resurrecting an old thread.... to anyone who has removed the rear wheel, do you need to completely remove the rear caliper? On the FJR, you could just loosen the swingarm end of the brake torque arm and this allowed the caliper to swing out of the way. Does a similar strategy work on the S10, or do you need to disconnect the torque arm all-together to get the caliper completely out of the way?

FYI, my rear EXP is toast at 5200 miles, but the front looks less than half worn. Normally I bite the bullet and replace tires in pairs even it if means throwing some usable tread on the front, but I'm going to just replace the rear this time. Other than the Shinkos (which I may try next time when I replace both) the best single-tire deal I could find was $113 shipped for a new rear Battlewing from Chapparal. They shipped promptly, but the tire is slightly "stale" (date coded about a year ago).

- Mark

 

[markjenn]

Just got done with my tire/wheel change, and I ran into some of the same issues reported here earllier when the cush rubbers and cush hub assembly didn't want to stay in the wheel as I was jockeying everything into position for axle insertion. I think the key is to make sure you have the cush hub well and fully seated into the wheel hub (I used a plastic hammer) and then make sure you get the wheel completely inserted into the final drive pumpkin - basically have everything on the left side well seated - before attempting to line up the brake carrier and wheel hub plate on the right. There's also a detent on the hub plate to get lined up correctly.

I unbolted the brake torque rod at the front and loosened it at the rear.

No big deal, but not the easiest rear wheel to change either.

- Mark

 

[hojo in sc]

Mark: I struggled without taking off the metal bar that holds the brake caliper and finally just pulled it too, would have saved me time and frustration on getting the wheel in and out if I had of started without the bar holding up the bar.

As for Shinko's, not for me. I had a set bubble up with absolutely no warning with only about 2,000 miles on it. They looked fine when I went to work and when I arrived (10 miles), the rubber was bulging like a balloon. Sorry, I don't remember the tire model but there a lot of us that had the problem and I think they were taken off the market to change the rubber formula.

 

[dcstrom]

As for Shinko's, not for me. I had a set bubble up with absolutely no warning with only about 2,000 miles on it.

That would have been to bias-ply version. Since they switched to radials there's been none of that kind of problem.

 

[colorider]

That would have been to bias-ply version. Since they switched to radials there's been none of that kind of problem.

I had it happen on a radial version. Front 009 Raven on my FJR.

Not good!!!

 

[dcstrom]

I had it happen on a radial version. Front 009 Raven on my FJR.

Not good!!!

Bummer - but I'm only talking about the 705's - I know nothing about their road tires.

 

[roy]

Bummer - but I'm only talking about the 705's - I know nothing about their road tires.

I am leaning toward the 705's on my S10 radial version of course. I know of a few guys running them with good results on V-strom 1000's. I run the 705 bias on my DR650 with outstanding results for the money or lack of money I should say. I own a No-Mar changer and balancer and I am not too concerned if a rear only gets 5k miles. I have 4800 on the stock rear metzler and it's about toast. I've read all the shinko seperation threads but if you look around that also applies to other brands. I love Michelin's, raced on them for ten years and still use them on my B-king. But for the DR and S10 which I ride a lot more than the B-king a cheaper rear tire goes a long way even if I buy two I am still ahead of the game.

 

[johnnail]

how about a tool to get the front wheel off. You'd think they would add that to the tool kit. I am glad I checked cause I need to get something to take that beast off.

that's what the hex end of your spark plug socket if for ;D

 

[mrpincher]

Re: Wheel Removal not to that bad

Took the wheels off the bike this afternoon and thought I mention a couple items.

I bought a copy of the Euro service manual last winter. The service manual was helpful, however, Mr Twistie gave a good blow by blow account of the process to git r done.

My front wheel speed sensor bolt was hand tight - don't know why it hadn't fallen out. I'll put a bit of locktite on it at reassembly.

Front wheel came off with out drama of any kind.

Rear wheel had me wondering what I was getting into. I took the advice (don't know who's) to use a ratchet strap to support the wheel load up towards the seat. Worked like a charm. Axle bolt came right out and the wheel dropped down when I released the tension on the strap. No parts fell out on the floor - life is good.

Hoping I can find a sympathetic bike shop to let me watch while they mount new K60's on Tuesday.

Thanks for the help everyone. Keep it up.
::006::
I'll see if I can take a couple pictures at reassembly.

 

[tomatocity]

Since our rear tires are getting long in the tooth... BUMP

 

[erenet]

I tried that. The hex on the back fits fine but mine won't take the extender. If anyone is actively going out buying a spark plug socket for this purpose be sure to look inside and see that it will take the extender.

Couldn't find one that would take the extender, so I drilled mine about a 1/4 with a 1/2 bit then I sprayed a little primer inside.

 

[jajpko]

Couldn't find one that would take the extender, so I drilled mine about a 1/4 with a 1/2 bit then I sprayed a little primer inside.

You can use a 1/2" all thread rod connector and a socket.

 

[erenet]

You can use a 1/2" all thread rod connector and a socket.

The 1/2 thread rod connector I found is about 17.5 mm, the 5/8 spark plug socket is almost 19mm outside.