What you did to your Tenere today??!!
- Thread starter biting_point
- Start date
Purnong
Member
Boris
Well-Known Member
As a rough guide, Gen1 part numbers start 23P. Gen2 2BS. If you have your old CCT it should have 23p on it.Thank you gentlemen
Wow, not cheap are they? $700 here in Aus, Ouch
Purnong
Member
Yes I do and yes it does, Thanks for that Boris
Yesterday and today: Put on a used TKC TwinDuro front tire, torqued the front spokes, patched up my cracked front fender, serviced the steering, cleaned the fork seals, and cleaned the mud out of the brake calipers. Man, that cap nut on the steering is a bear. Had to get out the impact gun to get it off. Had a little excitement when I dropped one of the ring nuts when reinstalling the steering. I did not see where it went, and could not find it. Finally found it here.
a little duck tape should fix that no problem. Was eyeing these for some future upgradesCleaned up my mess from yesterday's ride. Looks like it's going to cost me a new fender, unless I can patch it together.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
2010+ Super Tenere Deep Dish Fender Riser Kit
The LadlesportADV Deep Dish fender riser kit for all years of the Yamaha Super Tenere and raises the factory front fender 50mm (about 2"). This kit is designed to help eliminate a locked front wheel due to mud build up between the tire and fender. The Brackets are made from 3mm thick laser cut...
ladlesportadv.com
From their web site: Its noted that this kit raises the fender by 50mm and may come in contact with any additional lighting mounted under the factory headlights.a little duck tape should fix that no problem. Was eyeing these for some future upgrades
2010+ Super Tenere Deep Dish Fender Riser Kit
The LadlesportADV Deep Dish fender riser kit for all years of the Yamaha Super Tenere and raises the factory front fender 50mm (about 2"). This kit is designed to help eliminate a locked front wheel due to mud build up between the tire and fender. The Brackets are made from 3mm thick laser cut...
That would be an issue on mine.
Bmwdumptruck
Well-Known Member
Looks awefull, a right hash up. 
sheikyerbooty
Well-Known Member
Swapped out the front street for the 3 for some upcoming backcountry rides over the xmas break. Anyone tried the karoo 4 yet? Might try 'em next year.
Jiivee
Well-Known Member
Little thing, but anyway... i installed a new tank ring and tank bag.
Bill_C
Well-Known Member
I finally got around to taking my bike out for a ride after adjusting my MCCT and swapping to PO's 1200lb spring for the OEM spring.
The MCCT is nice and quiet and the rear spring, while the preload is maxed out, rides MUCH smoother than the heavier spring. It's funny, I was riding along and suddenly realized that I wasn't getting jarred on every bump. It was so pleasant that I almost didn't realize it. The front shocks are still a little rough but I will soften the preload and see how it feels.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
The MCCT is nice and quiet and the rear spring, while the preload is maxed out, rides MUCH smoother than the heavier spring. It's funny, I was riding along and suddenly realized that I wasn't getting jarred on every bump. It was so pleasant that I almost didn't realize it. The front shocks are still a little rough but I will soften the preload and see how it feels.
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Superraid
Active Member
Thanks to ocgeek design for a bracket I finally got round to remounting my givi tool box so I could remove the side panel on my ES. Modified the cad file laser cut 3mm aluminium quick coat of prime then black and fitted, works better than the givi mount which I had to modify anyway .
Attachments
MattR
Well-Known Member
Finally fitted a set of lovely new PFM disks, SBS pads and Hel brake and clutch lines. The OEM Galfers were ok but wore out (just over 3.5mm) PFMs are fully floating disks that are paralell ground. The rotors can be detached from the centres so that if I ever wear them out I can just replace the rotors. Got this set up on my zx14r and love it. Loads more feel to my braking now. Next year I’ll replace all master cylinder and calliper seals. Also changed oil and filter and sprayed as much as I could with acf 50 now the salt machines have hit the road
KGaron
Active Member
New muffler today. Really like the looks of it…
Attachments
Longdog Cymru
Well-Known Member
I imagine it sounds pretty good too.
lund
Well-Known Member
How cold do you expect to ride in, motorcycle tires in general do not do well in cold temps. they become rather dangerous.
Correct me if i'm wrong but the thresh hold I believe is around 6deg.C or 42F after that you're rolling the dice on tire safety.
There's some caveats about my choice to ride in the winter, I will generally only ride in the winter on a nice day, with no residual ice/snow on the pavement. It can be cloudy and cold (down to 28*F (-2*C)) or sunny and nice (down to 32*F (0*C)). So I take steps to maximize my safety when I choose to ride in the winter. Otherwise I just take my Tacoma out and about.
ETA: Also yes, my Dunlops get harder in the winter in aggressive cornering, because of the lugs, if you try to rip around a corner, you're going to slip when the weight transfers to the lug. So I just ride a little less aggressively with that understanding.
Can we get a sound clip? Looks good.