What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[EricV]

FWIW, most people find they don't have to remove the exhaust. The shock and links are on a pivot. I can't recall if I just used a jack to alter the angle or removed the lower shock bolt. At the end of the day, it's really not that difficult.

The ES may impact this, I've never wrenched on one.

It's amazing how much easier it is to work on this stuff if you remove the rear wheel and the shock... no weight/spring tension to fight against.

 

[gv550]

I was planning to install a lowering link kit on my 2018 ES model. I've put the brakes on that because as you mentioned, on must remove the exhaust to remove one of the bolts that secure the links. Not sure why Yamaha did it this way, doesn't look logical to me.
If Yamaha had installed the linkage bolts the other way then there would be no reason to monkey with the exhaust.
I found a new unused lower seat that I will try and hopefully a lower seat will solve my problem. Haven't received the seat yet.
Lowering links might be necessary for some riders, but change links?? = adjust front end = alter or replace side stand = alter or replace centre stand....and if not done properly resulting in a negative change to the dynamics of the bike's riding characteristics.
I'd like to hear from those who have installed lowering links and read their comments
My links will lower the height by 30 mm or 1 1/4 inches. Supplier Lust Racing (U.K.)
I'll likely sell the link kit.
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

The links, stock or lowering, can be removed without interfering with the exhaust. Only the front pivot bolt for the relay arm hits the exhaust, but not any more on mine..... I put the bolt in from the right.

 

[WJBertrand]

Flipping that bolt would allow removal of that aluminum linkage block and make removal and replacement of the rear shock MUCH easier. I've done rear spring upgrades on 4 different ES Teneres and that block really makes the job a LOT harder.

 

[SHUMBA]

FWIW, most people find they don't have to remove the exhaust. The shock and links are on a pivot. I can't recall if I just used a jack to alter the angle or removed the lower shock bolt. At the end of the day, it's really not that difficult.

The ES may impact this, I've never wrenched on one.

It's amazing how much easier it is to work on this stuff if you remove the rear wheel and the shock... no weight/spring tension to fight against.

Thanks for that EricV, for now I'll try the lower seat and hopefully a lower seat will suffice.
I can always try the links later.
It certainly appears that one would have to disconnect the exhaust as I cannot see how you would slide the bolt out to remove the links.
I'll report on the lower seat as I'm sure that I am not the only Tenere owner with shorter legs. As I've mentioned previously I bought a lower seat for my Africa Twin and that was the solution....hopefully it will be for the Tenere.
SHUMBA



Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[holligl]

I removed my leaking rear shock in anticipation of having it resealed or replaced, and kept on going. Removed the suspension linkage and swingarm to clean and lube the bearings. Question..... Having to remove the exhaust to get the front relay arm bolt out is a PITA, I don't see any reason why the nut couldn't go on the left so the bolt can be removed from the right side, has anyone done this?
Also changing air filter and spark plugs, valve adjust, steering lube ...

Nice to have a second bike to keep riding! I have new seals on hand to relube the rear suspension at the next rear tire change. Should order a new rear rotor too, since it's at the limit.

What's been your valve adjustment history?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[gv550]

Nice to have a second bike to keep riding! I have new seals on hand to relube the rear suspension at the next rear tire change. Should order a new rear rotor too, since it's at the limit.

What's been your valve adjustment history?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've checked my valves twice and everything was in spec but last time 2 exhaust valves were at the tight limit so I'm expecting to reshim this time. I also have the latest cam chain tensioner to install this time. I'm on my second rear rotor and it's about half used up. Amazingly, still original front rotors and pads but it's getting treated to new pads now.

 

[pilleway]

I had installed strobe lights to my S10 and looks OK, I have seen the usage of those lights in the roads in Mexico (specially in the Cuernavaca roda) and the bikes can be seen much better.
I would like to upload a video of it, have someone done it? how can it be done?
Regards and have a great weekend.

 

[WJBertrand]

Did a couple things. Carbon fiber vinyl wrapped my dash inlay panel and installed some stainless footman loops I got from Aerostich.

Next is to install my new Anakee Adventures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[AVGeek]

I had installed strobe lights to my S10 and looks OK, I have seen the usage of those lights in the roads in Mexico (specially in the Cuernavaca roda) and the bikes can be seen much better.
I would like to upload a video of it, have someone done it? how can it be done?
Regards and have a great weekend.

Typically, you would upload a video to YouTube or Vimeo, then share the link here.

 

[pilleway]

Here are the links for the strobo lights working in my S10

Unfurtunatly I found out that one of the main beam is not working so I have to work it out.
Hope the video can be seen!
Have a nice day!

 

[pilleway]

Also you can see what I have done to my Bike!

I was already tested by my main boss (wife) and no major complains.

 

[SkunkWorks]

First Oil and Filter change with the T-Rex Skid-Plate installed.



Holes for the drain-plugs were in the perfect place.



The Factory Yamaha filter "Just" barely touched the Trap-Door on the Skid-Plate.




The NAPA-Gold #1358 Filter I used is just a hair shorter than the OEM Yamaha one, and does not touch the Trap-Door.


When you remove the oil filter, the old oil that spills out just runs down the crease in the skid-plate and out the first drain-plug opening.
After installing the new filter, I simply chased it down the crease with some brake-cleaner.

This was probably one of the easiest and least-messy oil changes I have ever done on a Motorcycle.

I used Castrol Power-1 4T Full-Synthetic 10w50 this time around.

 

[VRODE]

Oil and filter change. And installed my Tusk panniers

 

[WJBertrand]

Got the Anakees fitted. Not tough tires to mount but the way the front was stored or shipped, the beads were pinched very close together. Gave me a bit of a battle getting them to seat. All’s good now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Don in Lodi]

I think those are going to be my next tire.

 

[Tenman]

I went to the grocery store. Got 2 gallons of milk and a bunch of canned stuff. I put it in my givi v 47 on an altrider rack. The case and stuff in it weighed 40 lbs. Noticed this break I was on smooth asphalt

 

[Don in Lodi]

Prolly cracked before, the extra load just opened it up.

 

[Kyle_E]

I went to the grocery store. Got 2 gallons of milk and a bunch of canned stuff. I put it in my givi v 47 on an altrider rack. The case and stuff in it weighed 40 lbs. Noticed this break ......

Please keep us updated if you contact them. I was considering this rack.

 

[Tenman]

Prolly cracked before, the extra load just opened it up.

I’ve had the v47 on it all the time for years. It’s took some hard shakin. I don’t think it was cracked. I had just put a QuickStart in the storage hole and looked at it. I’m satisfied with all my Altrider stuff.

 

[Squibb]

Got the Anakees fitted. Not tough tires to mount but the way the front was stored or shipped, the beads were pinched very close together. Gave me a bit of a battle getting them to seat. All’s good now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Got the Anakees fitted. Not tough tires to mount but the way the front was stored or shipped, the beads were pinched very close together. Gave me a bit of a battle getting them to seat. All’s good now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You may have already tried this ....... but a good tip if the beads are pinched together in transit, is to spoon the tyre on & then get a ratchet strap around the circumference & tighten up gently until the profile corrects itself. Worked a treat on my Electraglide rear.