Soliciting Input - Suspension Upgrades

[Firefight911]

Been a while since I've updated this but ooh and aah I am loving this Ohlin's!!!!

I have the 1111-59/150 L2611 spring in and it is wonderful!!! I have to adjust my preload collar to add some base preload but it is light years ahead of the stock shock.

I am one happy camper!!!!

I'll give more setting numbers for compression and rebound after I adjust the preload collar and have a few more miles on this set up.


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[Z06]

Been a while since I've updated this but ooh and aah I am loving this Ohlin's!!!!

I have the 1111-59/150 L2611 spring in and it is wonderful!!! I have to adjust my preload collar to add some base preload but it is light years ahead of the stock shock.

I am one happy camper!!!!

I'll give more setting numbers for compression and rebound after I adjust the preload collar and have a few more miles on this set up.


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Do you know the rate for that spring? Using those numbers on Ohlins site shows no results. AC is reporting 700# spring on his Penske shock. Seems low.

 

[Firefight911]

Do you know the rate for that spring? Using those numbers on Ohlins site shows no results. AC is reporting 700# spring on his Penske shock. Seems low.

Ohlin's numbering broken down.....

1091-34/100 is an example of a code you will find on an Ohlins shock spring. Using the below charts you can “decode” what you are looking at.
• The 1091 refers to the diameter and the length of the spring. Almost all Ohlins springs have a diameter of 57mm so that’s easy, the 1091 in this case means it has a 160mm length (when not on the shock)
• The -34 is the spring rate. For some unknown reason Ohlins uses it’s own numbers to label rate, but below on the rate conversion chart you can cross reference this number. In this case a -34 is a 100nm or 10.19kg or 571lb spring
• The /100 is the springs rate in Newton meters, but without the decimal. In this case the /100 means it’s a 100nm spring.

Art. nr. Rate N/mm Kg/mm lbs/inch

-88 28 2.85 160
30 3.06 171
-90 32 3.26 183
-01 34 3.46 194
-02 36 3.67 206
-03 38 3.87 217
-04 40 4.08 228
-05 42 4.28 240
-06 44 4.48 251
-07 46 4.69 263
-08 48 4.89 274
-09 50 5.10 286
-10 52 5.30 297
-11 54 5.50 308
-12 56 5.71 320
-13 58 5.91 331
-14 60 6.11 343
-15 62 6.32 354
-16 64 6.52 365
-17 66 6.73 377
-18 68 6.93 388
-19 70 7.13 400
-21 75 7.64 428
-24 80 8.15 457
-26 85 8.66 485
-29 90 9.17 514
-31 95 9.68 542
-34 100 10.19 571
-36 105 10.70 600
-39 110 11.21 628
-41 115 11.72 657
-44 120 12.23 685
-49 130 13.25 742
-54 140 14.27 799
-59 150 15.29 857
-64 160 16.30 914
-69 170 17.32 971
-74 180 18.34 1028
-79 190 19.36 1085
-84 200 20.38 1142
-89 210 21.40 1199


Spring Length Chart

1093- 1091- 1092-
150 mm 160 mm 170 mm
5.9" 6.3" 6.7"

Stock shock is 132.3 n/mm. That makes the Ohlin's a 150 n/mm spring or 857 lb/in.

Hope this helps.

 

[Z06]

Stock shock is 132.3 n/mm. That makes the Ohlin's a 150 n/mm spring or 857 lb/in.

Hope this helps.

Helps with rate for your spring. Confused as to how a 700# spring is working for a 250lb rider. The more I read the more confused I become.

 

[avc8130]

Firefight,

What do you weigh (I know it has been posted, but I forget)?

What configuration is your bike (luggage)?

What is your rider sag?

Static sag?

The spring rates are an interesting puzzle.

ac

 

[Firefight911]

I'm 215 lbs.

I am finalizing my set up Friday with Super Plush when I go down to them to run my preload collar down (more base preload) so I can get my 57mm race sag with no hydraulic preload needed.

I'm setting this up with me on the bike and my empty Touratech top case.


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[3putt]

I'm using a 800 lb spring on the OEM shock. Middle of the preload setting, 57mm sag with me and topbox. I am 180 lbs.

 

[avc8130]

I'm using a 800 lb spring on the OEM shock. Middle of the preload setting, 57mm sag with me and topbox. I am 180 lbs.

What is your static sag? That would be the "sag" in the suspension from just the bikes weight.

ac

 

[3putt]

That is kind of hard to check by myself, but to the best I can tell, it is 32mm static and 63mm rider sag as I have it set now.

 

[avc8130]

That is kind of hard to check by myself, but to the best I can tell, it is 32mm static and 63mm rider sag as I have it set now.

That is a TON of static sag.

ac

 

[3putt]

Yep, which means undersprung. Should be 10% or 15% right? Rides great tho, much better than stock especially with load.

 

[Firefight911]

I'll post solid numbers after my Friday session.


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[avc8130]

Yep, which means undersprung. Should be 10% or 15% right? Rides great tho, much better than stock especially with load.

Undersprung? Not necessarily, in fact excessive STATIC sag is indication of too high of a spring rate.

Penske likes to see 2-8mm static sag.

ac

 

[avc8130]

Some thoughts about rear spring rate selection:

1. Penske tested the stock spring rate. Their experiment determined 689 lb/in.

2. The stock shock uses a hydraulic preload adjuster. We do not know how much ACTUAL distance the preload adjuster moves. For all we know, the distance from full soft to full hard is 1/2".

3. Penske uses a threaded collar for preload adjustment. The range of adjustment is essentially infinite. You could go from 0 preload on the spring to ~2".

Remember, preload does NOT change the RATE of the spring. Ideally, you would use the SOFTEST spring that gets you proper geometry (57mm rider sag, 2-8mm static sag). This will provide the BEST ride on both the pavement and dirt.

ac

 

[3putt]

Well by those numbers then, I may need to add some preload. I am at .575" with two spacers, but this is on a spring that is .39" shorter than OEM. My preload adjuster is only at 1st mark, so I have nearly 1/2" of preload left.

If I add that much preload to get 8mm static, I will be short on the rider sag most likely, which would mean spring rate too heavy (like you said). Might be, that I can go back to the stock spring and add a 1/4" spacer to give proper sag, but I am not going to pull it to test. I really like the higher rear end as to handling and turn-in (faster). I could not get anywhere close to proper rider sag with OEM.

Anyway, I am just trying to give some more numbers, don't expect the stock shock to be as good as the addon. Also I really like the .95 fork spring, and may consider the new valves sometime in the future.

 

[avc8130]

Well by those numbers then, I may need to add some preload. I am at .575" with two spacers, but this is on a spring that is .39" shorter than OEM. My preload adjuster is only at 1st mark, so I have nearly 1/2" of preload left.

If I add that much preload to get 8mm static, I will be short on the rider sag most likely, which would mean spring rate too heavy (like you said). Might be, that I can go back to the stock spring and add a 1/4" spacer to give proper sag, but I am not going to pull it to test. I really like the higher rear end as to handling and turn-in (faster). I could not get anywhere close to proper rider sag with OEM.

Anyway, I am just trying to give some more numbers, don't expect the stock shock to be as good as the addon. Also I really like the .95 fork spring, and may consider the new valves sometime in the future.

The beauty with the aftermarket rear shock is that you can have your cake and eat it too. You can get proper preload (both static and rider) to get the proper suspension response AND you can adjust ride height to get proper handling (turn-in and stability).

I have .95s in the front end also. Mine are "stock length". I CAN get proper sag, but my pre-load adjusters are full loose.

With the stock fork springs, and the preload caps set FULL TIGHT, I was able to get proper preload (and that spring rate was .86).

I am going to try some .90s next. They should get me proper sag with the preload adjuster more towards the midrange. The softer rate should also make the ride more plush and controlled.

ac

 

[JaimeV]

I have this one. Its a new Belgium brand called BM suspension and distributed by Mambatec in Spain.
This is a prototype to test in my ST, I asked them to be able to rise the bike 3,5cm, so if I have a 21” front wheel I can equilibrate the bike.
Now the bike is 2cm higher than before.
As you can see in the photos, in the center stand and the Mamba the rear wheel is in the floor but with the OEM there is a space.
I also like the look with the back slightly raised.

With the OEM shock the rear wheel doesn’t touch the ground

With the BM does

I ride it hard in my last trip I Sardinia and it worked great. Next week they are going to open it to see if everything is OK, finish the install making specific bottle supports for the ST, cut the pipes to install-them properly, etc.
It works so well that now I feel the front suspension soft and “poor quality” so they are going to modify with new springs and oil.

 

[3putt]

I have proper rider sag on the front also, with full preload off.

As a comparison and a surprise to me, the MTS1200 had .60 springs! They would bottom on a very sharp bump, say like bottom of a ditch. But they were sweet to ride.

 

[Firefight911]

I have the final numbers for my rear suspension set up now that it is all good to go.

I went back down to James' shop and we finalized the set up as follows;

As indicated in my previous posts I wasn't able to get my optimum race sag setting and needed to add base preload via the collar on the shock body. We added 8mm from the Olhlin's supplied collar setting and that gave us the following;

19mm of static sag

57 mm of race sag

I am running 16 clicks of compression damping

I am running 18 clicks of rebound damping

These numbers are derived with no cases on the bike, me in ride gear, and the hydraulic preload adjuster all the way out.

needless to say, these are quite literally perfect numbers!

Once I added my Touratech Zega Pro side cases and top case along with my tool kit and "normal" stuff I ride with I added 10 rounds of preload to the adjuster and had my perfect race sag numbers again.

As for the front, things are much better due to the linear rate .95 springs, good fluid, and good fluid height and subsequent air gap. The spacers installed allow me to get my race sag at 57 mm without any added preload from the adjusters. I do need to continue my work here though. Although I can get my race sag number I have too much static sag as it is coming in at 35 mm. Once I get back from my 8000 mile road trip I'll be working with james at Super Plush to improve and finalize this part of the suspension.

I cannot speak highly enough of James, his knowledge, and his competency. He refuses to take money to take money. He is methodic and detailed in his approach and he is excellent at getting feedback from you that allows you to take the next step together toward getting you the ride you are after.

Now, I do need to add that if there is anyone who wants to know what a Tenere can feel like when the suspension is right and, therefore, the geometry is where it was intended, come see me and ask for a ride. It will truly amaze you!!!! Oh, and I really feel sorry for those sport bikes now! BwwaaaaaHaaaaaHaaaaa!!! Too close for missiles, switching to guns. The ride is NOTHING like it was. It really is amazing what a bit of work in the suspension department can do for you. Confidence - UP! Competence of the bike - UP! Grin quotient - UP!

Ask away!!

 

[avc8130]

Your static sag numbers seem quite high. I think you might have spring rates that are a bit too high still.

I bet those .95s in the front are a bit hefty for you.

What rear rate did you wind up with?

It is AMAZING what this bike feels like with REAL suspension. I don't miss my sport bikes with regards to handling. Once I finalize how to make this 1200 FEEL like a 1200, I won't miss the sportbikes one bit.

ac