Perfect reason to plug in your coffee pot and brew up a cup off the back of that fancy battery. Make every cranking amp matter. 
Report about your Shorai Lithium Battery in your Tenere
- Thread starter Combo
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I realize. Just wanted to make sure the person who wrote it, as well as any other potential buyer was aware.Karson said:
I'll stick with lead acid for now. No funny games in the cold and it takes a standard battery tender without complaining.
ac
It's pretty easy to point fingers at one and forget about the others (fwiw, -18C is about 0F)
(The curves below are representative ones that I just grabbed off the web and are NOT for the Shorai!!!)
Your lead-acid takes a big performance hit with cold also. But then few of us will ride regularly when it's nearly 0 F.
The reality is that vehicle designers already have taken cold performance degradation into account for specifying how many CCA a battery should have. You can lose a lot of performance from age, cold, or both and still start right up.
UPDATE several hours later:
I deleted a plot that was here which showed constant power output over temperature. As mentioned above, I grabbed the two plots simply because they were representative of things I've seen before for Lithium. The deleted plot was from here:
http://www.solarstik.com/sites/default/files/pdf/solarstikbatterycomparisonlaliweb.pdf
Looking closer, I think whoever made the pdf erred, because I noticed that the same data shows for the chart of lead-acid. Since I don't know which is right, it's better to just drop the plot.
As far as the bottom line about not worrying. I still don't.
(The curves below are representative ones that I just grabbed off the web and are NOT for the Shorai!!!)
Your lead-acid takes a big performance hit with cold also. But then few of us will ride regularly when it's nearly 0 F.
The reality is that vehicle designers already have taken cold performance degradation into account for specifying how many CCA a battery should have. You can lose a lot of performance from age, cold, or both and still start right up.
UPDATE several hours later:
I deleted a plot that was here which showed constant power output over temperature. As mentioned above, I grabbed the two plots simply because they were representative of things I've seen before for Lithium. The deleted plot was from here:
http://www.solarstik.com/sites/default/files/pdf/solarstikbatterycomparisonlaliweb.pdf
Looking closer, I think whoever made the pdf erred, because I noticed that the same data shows for the chart of lead-acid. Since I don't know which is right, it's better to just drop the plot.
As far as the bottom line about not worrying. I still don't.
Something is fishy about those graphs.
It is widely reported that the LiFe batteries do NOT work below freezing unless "warmed".
I don't consider having to run my headlights or another load for 5 mins "convenient" when it is cold outside. I know a lot of guys say "just turn it on while you gear up". No thanks. I'd rather gear up inside where it is warm and then walk outside and START the bike, not prepare to initialize to start the bike.
I just don't see the advantage. The Lead-Acid works just fine, regardless of temperature as long as it is "healthy". I had one in my Suzuki original from 2002. I sold that bike in 2010 and it was still using the same battery...never missed a start, no matter the temp. I even had flat slide carbs with no choke on that bike. It was a bear to get started in the cold, lots of abuse on the battery.
On a 600lb adventure bike, I don't think losing the few pounds is worth taking away some of the RTW capability as so many people claim.
ac
It is widely reported that the LiFe batteries do NOT work below freezing unless "warmed".
I don't consider having to run my headlights or another load for 5 mins "convenient" when it is cold outside. I know a lot of guys say "just turn it on while you gear up". No thanks. I'd rather gear up inside where it is warm and then walk outside and START the bike, not prepare to initialize to start the bike.
I just don't see the advantage. The Lead-Acid works just fine, regardless of temperature as long as it is "healthy". I had one in my Suzuki original from 2002. I sold that bike in 2010 and it was still using the same battery...never missed a start, no matter the temp. I even had flat slide carbs with no choke on that bike. It was a bear to get started in the cold, lots of abuse on the battery.
On a 600lb adventure bike, I don't think losing the few pounds is worth taking away some of the RTW capability as so many people claim.
ac
Maybe I'm a knucklehead (actually I know I am - just ask my wife - she's got 19 years' worth of stories she's more than happy to share) but I just don't see any disadvantage.
Pro - it weighs 6+ pounds less, not huge, but that's 6 high-up pounds, and I'll take 'em.
Pro - threaded posts - no more fighting those stupid nuts behind the terminals
Pro - if it's super-cold I gear up inside and stand there sipping coffee while my heated gear warms the battery (and me)
Pro - oh yeah, it starts the bike - kinda important
Admittedly I'm only a few weeks into ownership, but I haven't found a Con yet,...
Pro - it weighs 6+ pounds less, not huge, but that's 6 high-up pounds, and I'll take 'em.
Pro - threaded posts - no more fighting those stupid nuts behind the terminals
Pro - if it's super-cold I gear up inside and stand there sipping coffee while my heated gear warms the battery (and me)
Pro - oh yeah, it starts the bike - kinda important
Admittedly I'm only a few weeks into ownership, but I haven't found a Con yet,...
To each his own. But when my OEM goes South, I will for sure be getting one of these.
Advantages:
Much lighter weight. (on a 600 lb machine, I want to save every ounce I can)
Much higher starting current. The motor spins much faster
Much lower self discharge.
Longer life (theory - we shall see)
Disadvantages:
Higher cost
Cold weather starting
I LOVE the one in my DR-650! The motor spins noticeable faster and starts quicker. It does not go dead or weak if I don't ride for several weeks. I have had zero problems with cold starts even in the coldest FL weather. (30-40 range) Of course if I lived up north where the weather was unfit for human habitation, I might feel different. ::015::
I am curious why so many guys are claiming such quick demise of the stock battery. The stock battery is a Yuasa, arguably the best lead acid battery made. I've owned MANY motorcycles and actually have yet to kill an OEM Yuasa in any of them.
ac
ac
Mine lasted exactly 23 months - nothing extreme in Florida except wide temperature swings. I don't have an answer for this one, ac. First two years of ownership I never had the bike on a tender, but never went more than two weeks without riding.avc8130 said:
Zero electrical farkles either, BTW... So it wasn't a owner-induced drain that caused the issue...
I dunno what happened to mine, but it was getting slower, and slower, and slower to start.
Been in the service end of the car biz for 15+ years, and I'm well aware of how a dying battery presents, and mine was declining quickly....
Combo
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I have had good luck with stock Yuasa batteries but after more than 2 1/2 years on the Tenere stock one.........I know mine is going south. I am going to replace my battery soon and looks like it will be a Shorai from what I have seen so far on this thread.avc8130 said:
I'm no big fanboy of either. I can see the data for myself.
I also am satisfied with the life expectancy of todays OEM batteries. But I was surprised the Tenere battery gave out recently. So, not impressed with that! Lol
Still though, I needed an instant solution. Jumped her off and rode to the dealer for another Yuasa. About $100.
Hope it last longer.
I also am satisfied with the life expectancy of todays OEM batteries. But I was surprised the Tenere battery gave out recently. So, not impressed with that! Lol
Still though, I needed an instant solution. Jumped her off and rode to the dealer for another Yuasa. About $100.
Hope it last longer.
Oh, and I still want one of those cool Anti-gravity hand held booster batteries. I'm gonna be that guy at ralleys. The one that will make anyone a cup of coffee with my jetboil, AND jump your bike if you need it.
They are cool. I'm getting one for my daughter's carsnakebitten said:Oh, and I still want one of those cool Anti-gravity hand held booster batteries. I'm gonna be that guy at ralleys. The one that will make anyone a cup of coffee with my jetboil, AND jump your bike if you need it.
Combo
DSN
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I can't buy both so I think I will just follow you, drink coffee and ask for a battery jump in the morning.snakebitten said:Oh, and I still want one of those cool Anti-gravity hand held booster batteries. I'm gonna be that guy at ralleys. The one that will make anyone a cup of coffee with my jetboil, AND jump your bike if you need it.
Count on it neighbor!
tomatocity
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Coastie, you mentioned having trouble removing a stock battery with Altrider Engine Guards. Where does the battery contact the Engine Guard?
Last July I ran my battery dead dead dead and needed to pull it to charge it in the motel room. It was close but it came out and went back in with no problem. After I got home I replaced the original battery with another stock battery and had no problem removing the old and installing the new.
(KLR knowledge) If you have a problem with the nut... use a thick zip-tie and slide it under the nut. If you don't have a thick zip-tie use a Popsicle stick (don't leave home without one).
Last July I ran my battery dead dead dead and needed to pull it to charge it in the motel room. It was close but it came out and went back in with no problem. After I got home I replaced the original battery with another stock battery and had no problem removing the old and installing the new.
(KLR knowledge) If you have a problem with the nut... use a thick zip-tie and slide it under the nut. If you don't have a thick zip-tie use a Popsicle stick (don't leave home without one).
I've always used a little bit of folded cardboard for the same thing. The S10 is a bit more annoying than most since the battery is vertical. Some AGMs do have threaded posts. Personally, I don't mind the nut as I don't have to worry about stripping out an integral lead post and I know I can get a nice and tight connection.tomatocity said:
ac
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I just use some metric studs, a little locktite, and I have threaded posts.
Wait, isn't this a thread in a post :question:
Wait, isn't this a thread in a post :question:
I did not spend any time inspecting where it hit. When I pulled it and it hit the bars and was not clear of the housing I just shoved it back in and loosened the bolts. Good to know if you fiddle with with it comes out no problem. Thanks for the tip, makes it easier if I'm on the road.tomatocity said: