New skid plate arrival

TierHawg

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Okay, I don't have an engineering degree or anything else fancy like that. BUT, I'm kinda wondering how this would handle a big hit better than the other aluminum bash plates? This plate is held in place with 4 bolts? The area circled in the above pic could be a "crumple zone" in a hard hit. What is keeping the plate from getting smashed up an into the sump pan? Is there any way to weld a small brace into that area, or is one even needed? Not trying to be negative, just trying to help.
 

JaimeV

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TierHawg said:


Okay, I don't have an engineering degree or anything else fancy like that. BUT, I'm kinda wondering how this would handle a big hit better than the other aluminum bash plates? This plate is held in place with 4 bolts? The area circled in the above pic could be a "crumple zone" in a hard hit. What is keeping the plate from getting smashed up an into the sump pan? Is there any way to weld a small brace into that area, or is one even needed? Not trying to be negative, just trying to help.
In the previous plate I saw them putting pressure in different areas of the plate. The bottom area was quite flexible and that's why they add some bends and the frame. This concrete area you say it doesn't moves but perhaps was because the other areas where more flexible.
I don't know if they test this again with the more rigid new one. I will asked them and tell you their response. Thanks!
 

Jagermeister

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TierHawg said:


Okay, I don't have an engineering degree or anything else fancy like that. BUT, I'm kinda wondering how this would handle a big hit better than the other aluminum bash plates? This plate is held in place with 4 bolts? The area circled in the above pic could be a "crumple zone" in a hard hit. What is keeping the plate from getting smashed up an into the sump pan? Is there any way to weld a small brace into that area, or is one even needed? Not trying to be negative, just trying to help.
I was thinking the same thing. It seems that a strait surface would bear more weight, if the plate came down hard on a big rock.

The plate looks sweet, though.
 

Koinz

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TierHawg said:
Okay, I don't have an engineering degree or anything else fancy like that. BUT, I'm kinda wondering how this would handle a big hit better than the other aluminum bash plates? This plate is held in place with 4 bolts? The area circled in the above pic could be a "crumple zone" in a hard hit. What is keeping the plate from getting smashed up an into the sump pan? Is there any way to weld a small brace into that area, or is one even needed? Not trying to be negative, just trying to help.
....I'm also wondering, could it damage the oil filter and mounting or is it far enough away from the oil filter to absorb the hit?
 

JaimeV

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Koinz said:
....I'm also wondering, could it damage the oil filter and mounting or is it far enough away from the oil filter to absorb the hit?
Sorry guys... too busy!!

Last week they make some little modifications and now the plate is finished. I’m very pleased, it looks great!

In the factory they press the plate to see if it is too flexible but with the new rear frame it improves a lot from the previous one. It must have a really big hit to touch the sump, in that case there is a 10mm foam to absorb the impact. They look really confident about this.

No problem with the filter. There is a big gap between it and the plate so, in a big hit I think the plate is going to touch the sump before to break the filter.

Next week they are going to do a first production and tell me the final price. When I know it I'll tell you and gives you a mail or link with more info if you need it.

Some pics soon
 

JaimeV

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The promise pics.

Also, if you are interested, I'm selling a used Touratech skid plate, the first ACD prototype (used), and a new one made before the last modifications.
I'm going to do some pics and post them in the "For Sale" forum.







 

JaimeV

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Good news.
I have a mail from ACD with the final skid plate specs and they decided anodized in titanium colour.
I feel a bit spolied, that was what I asked for ::012::

 

rem

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That's a mighty handsome skidplate. Yessir. If you could weld about three stout little tabs on the outside of the oil filter cover thingy, and an oversized circular plate to screw into it, you'd really have yourself something. A removable cover for changing the oil filter. Anyway, it looks very professional. Very nice. R ::008::
 

DubbleJay

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rem said:
That's a mighty handsome skidplate. Yessir. If you could weld about three stout little tabs on the outside of the oil filter cover thingy, and an oversized circular plate to screw into it, you'd really have yourself something. A removable cover for changing the oil filter. Anyway, it looks very professional. Very nice. R ::008::
Can I just ask about the /skid plate/oil-filter issue? Granted I do not have a skid plate yet... BUT I do keep coming across this within this forum, people really seem to like to change their oil filters while leaving their skid plates on. I really dont understand this at all... Ive owned a lot of bikes and the S10 is the first that has oriented their oil filter in such a way that you can screw it off and let whatever oil come out and NOTHING gets on the bike... literally. No clean up. Screw filter off, wipe opening, screw filter on. DONE.

Needless to say I think this is awesome. That said, looking at all the various skid plates out there I cannot for the life of me see why anyone would leave their plates on... Or why it is such a big deal to just take it off. Seems like the convenience factor is negligible. Do you not just get oil inside the plate, or end up having to hold some kind of catch to grab that bit of oil in the filter? (two handed anything does not work for me).

I mean none of them sit so closely to the bike that the filter spout clears the plate, right? Even those with a little panel that can be removed seem like they will just get messy with old oil.

Really guys... How long does take to just pop that skid plate off... 10 minutes? Changing your oil and going over the bike is a spiritual thing, your getting down there in the guts and checking bolts and spokes, and carefully going over whatever it is that you go over. Some of you guys probably just like to hide in your garage, why not extend this oh so valuable time away from the wife. Why not make it a process... Take a little extra time. These are first world non-problems... I dont think anyone is running the dakar... is shaving minutes off your oil change that important?

Honestly I would rather have a good solid basher that requires removal than parts that move or odd openings, etc. Any engineer will tell that all those things equal weakness.

Any clarification on this issue is appreciated, I am still shopping for my plate. If this is really a thing I may be swayed one way or the other.
 

JaimeV

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DubbleJay said:
……………………..
people really seem to like to change their oil filters while leaving their skid plates on. …………………………..
Honestly I would rather have a good solid basher that requires removal than parts that move or odd openings, etc. Any engineer will tell that all those things equal weakness.
I was one of these that would like a skid plate with holes and screws to change oil without remove the plate.
I asked to the ACD engineer to have this… NO POINT.
He said if I want one they can make it for me but not for the production ones because they wouldn’t have customers complains. They want to produce a skid plate strong and simple. And this is it.
So, I tried to change the oil with the skid plate on before they meld the front “bump” and was a mess, oil all over the plate. He laugh a lot in my face… and I decided he is right. To take the skid plate out is 10 minutes, no point to add more bolts and screws (and price) in it. ::008::
 

~TABASCO~

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DubbleJay said:
Can I just ask about the /skid plate/oil-filter issue? Granted I do not have a skid plate yet... BUT I do keep coming across this within this forum, people really seem to like to change their oil filters while leaving their skid plates on. I really dont understand this at all... Ive owned a lot of bikes and the S10 is the first that has oriented their oil filter in such a way that you can screw it off and let whatever oil come out and NOTHING gets on the bike... literally. No clean up. Screw filter off, wipe opening, screw filter on. DONE.

Needless to say I think this is awesome. That said, looking at all the various skid plates out there I cannot for the life of me see why anyone would leave their plates on... Or why it is such a big deal to just take it off. Seems like the convenience factor is negligible. Do you not just get oil inside the plate, or end up having to hold some kind of catch to grab that bit of oil in the filter? (two handed anything does not work for me).

I mean none of them sit so closely to the bike that the filter spout clears the plate, right? Even those with a little panel that can be removed seem like they will just get messy with old oil.

Really guys... How long does take to just pop that skid plate off... 10 minutes? Changing your oil and going over the bike is a spiritual thing, your getting down there in the guts and checking bolts and spokes, and carefully going over whatever it is that you go over. Some of you guys probably just like to hide in your garage, why not extend this oh so valuable time away from the wife. Why not make it a process... Take a little extra time. These are first world non-problems... I dont think anyone is running the dakar... is shaving minutes off your oil change that important?

Honestly I would rather have a good solid basher that requires removal than parts that move or odd openings, etc. Any engineer will tell that all those things equal weakness.

Any clarification on this issue is appreciated, I am still shopping for my plate. If this is really a thing I may be swayed one way or the other.


One of the BIG issues that I have spoken to customers about from there own experience is this. They have there skid plate on, they have had a great time on the bike, Etc. They have hit there skid plate a few times just as it was intended. Because they cant change there oil with the plate on, they of course take it off. When they go to reinstall the plate, it is now "sprung" from the previous 'use'.. Now that the plate is sprung only one or two bolt holes will line up. The rest of the connecting bolt holes are way off and cant get the bolts back in. Like most people, the next thought is that they will put it on the the ground and bang it out with a hammer to get the dents out of the bottom, and try and put it back to "normal". That is there thought process. What customers have told me is after they do that its worst off than before banging on it.. Its so sprung and bent up it wont go back on... At this point this is when they call us and I hear there story.

As far as 'others' that have a removable window or door for the filter, and the over all unit being weaker? In our case this is simply not true. You might be referring to our skid plate the "maximum protection device". All the skid plates that im aware of are much thinner material than what we use. We are the only custom manufacturer that uses 1/4" / 6mm billet aluminum for our protection part. Not one small piece of thick aluminum, the WHOLE device is made with the same thickness material, so is the mounting plate, 1/4" billet. The oil filter opening has NO bearing on the actual structural integrity of the unit. The plate we add to the front of the filter is to simply protect the end cap of the filter. We are so sure about the structural integrity we offer a life time warranty.

As far as oil clean up with the plate left on.. There's not any.. You drain the two plugs, you pull the filter, when the bike is on the side stand. The filter oil drains down the corner of the plate and comes out the front drain hole in the plate. After you have install the plugs and the new filter you simply take a paper towel and wipe the residual oil from the plate. You can get your fingers in there from the front oil drain hole. This "cleaning" takes about 6-8 seconds. A lot less effort than taking someone else's plate off and on.... ::025::
 

pluric

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DubbleJay

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~TABASCO~ said:
One of the BIG issues that I have spoken to customers about from there own experience is this. They have there skid plate on, they have had a great time on the bike, Etc. They have hit there skid plate a few times just as it was intended. Because they cant change there oil with the plate on, they of course take it off. When they go to reinstall the plate, it is now "sprung" from the previous 'use'.. Now that the plate is sprung only one or two bolt holes will line up. The rest of the connecting bolt holes are way off and cant get the bolts back it. Like most people, the next thought is that they will put it on the the ground and bang it out with a hammer to get the dents out of the bottom, and try and put it back to "normal". That is there thought process. What customers have told me is after they do that its worst off than before banging on it.. Its so sprung and bent up it wont go back on... At this point this is when they call us and I hear there story.

As far as 'others' that have a removable window or door for the filter, and the over all unit being weaker? In our case this is simply not true. You might be referring to our skid plate the "maximum protection device". All the skid plates that im aware of are much thinner material than what we use. We are the only custom manufacturer that uses 1/4" / 6mm billet aluminum for our protection part. Not one small piece of thick aluminum, the WHOLE device is made with the same thickness material, so is the mounting plate, 1/4" billet. The oil filter opening has NO bearing on the actual structural integrity of the unit. The plate we add to the front of the filter is to simply protect the end cap of the filter. We are so sure about the structural integrity we offer a life time warranty.

As far as oil clean up with the plate left on.. There's not any.. You drain the two plugs, you pull the filter, when the bike is on the side stand. The filter oil drains down the corner of the plate and comes out the front drain hole in the plate. After you have install the plugs and the new filter you simply take a paper towel and wipe the residual oil from the plate. You can get your fingers in there from the front oil drain hole. This "cleaning" takes about 6-8 seconds. A lot less effort than taking someone else's plate off and on.... ::025::
Wow thanks for that explanation. I hadn't thought that the skid plate might actually warp out of shape once taken off. Huge consideration there... thanks. As far as the opening for the oil filter. Just to be clear, I wasn't really speaking specifically about any particular make. More speaking to the fact that in almost every thread regarding skid plate design and build someone inevitably brings this up. Given that yours is 1/4" probably negates any structural concerns but if someone else was fabbing up a plate out of 3-4mm aluminum it would be a concern to cut a big opening right in a "cave-in" zone. As well... considering now your comment regarding the tendency for these things to go out of shape... A screw-on filter cap probably would never screw back on once removed.

I assume when your speaking to customers regarding their "sprung" skid plates they are talking about other manufacturers right? Have you noticed a tendency for one make to suffer this malady more often than others? Have you noticed a "springing" in your own bash plate? <----Yes, I do differentiate between a skid and a bash plate ;). Too me, a 1/4" plate built like yours is obviously meant for boulder hopping, log crushing mayhem...(bash) the more often seen 3-4mm plates are I think less suited for such things (skid).
 

~TABASCO~

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DubbleJay said:
Wow thanks for that explanation. I hadn't thought that the skid plate might actually warp out of shape once taken off. Huge consideration there... thanks. As far as the opening for the oil filter. Just to be clear, I wasn't really speaking specifically about any particular make. More speaking to the fact that in almost every thread regarding skid plate design and build someone inevitably brings this up. Given that yours is 1/4" probably negates any structural concerns but if someone else was fabbing up a plate out of 3-4mm aluminum it would be a concern to cut a big opening right in a "cave-in" zone. As well... considering now your comment regarding the tendency for these things to go out of shape... A screw-on filter cap probably would never screw back on once removed.

I assume when your speaking to customers regarding their "sprung" skid plates they are talking about other manufacturers right? Have you noticed a tendency for one make to suffer this malady more often than others? Have you noticed a "springing" in your own bash plate? <----Yes, I do differentiate between a skid and a bash plate ;). Too me, a 1/4" plate built like yours is obviously meant for boulder hopping, log crushing mayhem...(bash) the more often seen 3-4mm plates are I think less suited for such things (skid).

Yes, I tend to see different problems with many of them. Ive actually had to cut three plates off from three different customers bikes. Ive also seen where customers had another skid plate and seriously damaged there header to the point we had to replace it along with cutting the skid plate off and sending them off with a new skid plate. I would prefer not to mention names but all of them have fundamental structural issues. Unfortunately most of these plates cant support a bike + loaded + fuel + rider + panniers + gear + Etc. 1000 Lbs. with 1/8" sheet of aluminum. If you "skid" most any plate on the market across a log or rock and it has full weight of the bike on there plate, there is a high probability that is has stretched, moved, or sprung that plate. I talk to real customers almost everyday about this situation. We have had no issue with that. Ours is frame to frame mounted and is very robust. If a customer EVER had an issue they can call me directly and we will get them fixed up. In my humble opinion I think that the skid plates on the market today are made for road gravel, and light trail use. (No one ever can plan for the accident or unexpected, if they are under protected they are sure to find out though) And with our plate you can now ride anywhere, anytime, do anything you might want, and have fun.. If you have an "accident" on the trail, the bike/engine will be fine, we will always hope the rider is safe and un hurt.

I did just that about 100 miles off in the desert wasteland of Big Bend, Tx last year. Long story short we where not hot-dogging or going crazy. Myself and another Tenere rider where doing some fun dirt roads. We encountered a sand section and I slowed down to about 10-12 Mph. I had my feet down and was trying not to crash. You know the old adage, don't look at what you don't want to hit... Well off to the side of this sand road was a boulder about 18X20". I was trying not to crash in the sand. I saw the boulder, aimed right for it and then proceed to hit it on the whole left side of my bike.. It touched the fork, smashed my (new skid plate at the time) bounced off that and bent the shifter, hit the peg, and dented the pannier.. I didn't fall of the bike but that whole thing sucked bad. The front left corner of my skid plate was dented in. The rock was high enough and broad enough that is whacked the whole front left corner. The guy behind me crashed in the sand. After we got his bike up and we both took a deep breath we looked at the damage. We where both saying a little prayer that the damage didn't shove my oil filter into the case. It would damage a lot of stuff. No way to get the bike out 100 miles to the main road on the Mexican border. You never know what "accident" you didn't plan for..

Another thing. I don't think many people think about this at all. I have thought about it many times. When riding this bike, if any plate contacts anything with the ground you can have many loads from different angles applied to the plate.. Most of the time the load to the plate is NOT just a vertical load on axis from the ground. You have forward momentum when contacting an object. If you have a heavy load on the front right / front left / (and other locations) you can have major failure rates on these locations. They are VERY week. Most if not all plate manufactures are engineering these plates from a perspective of only a vertical load. There is much more involved in real world protection other than just a vertical load. The sad part is, many plates cant even hold up a 800+ Lbs bike without having issues with the mounting locations and the loads involved. Why would anyone expect it to have long term protection if it had a shock impact on any hard object. We can use motorcycle jack, car jack, a boulder, a log, anything you want with ours all day. Its now a structured part of the frame. We then can do the calulation on load values in some real world load loactions on others skid plates, it will fail. Ive seen it roll into the shop many times. Maybe some of the customers im refering too will chime in and confirm what im talking about.

If you would like more info I can talk your ear off.. I have installed 99% of them, I know customers with all of them. Etc.
 

CED ACD

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Hi Guys
I'm the guy who made the ACD RACING PARTS skidplate.
I joint the forum to answer your questions and to listen your comments and suggestions.
I would like to give special thanks to Jaume for his serious in testing the product.
I will post a render of the final version of the skidplate with the TITANIUM anodising and the lateral logos
laser engraved.
Kind regards
Cédric
 
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