If you got a conformation just be patient. I started to wonder about getting mine after about 2 weeks. It showed up about 3 weeks after I ordered it. It may be slow coming but haven't heard of anybody not getting theirs.sierraoffroad said:
New skid plate arrival
- Thread starter JaimeV
- Start date
sierraoffroad
no matter where you go: there you are!
thanks true grip. i'll give it some more time. I haven't received any shipping info or any sort of confirmation as of yet. 2 to 3 weeks seems like a long time. if they're in ohio it shouldn't take that long to get to the east coast.
The ad on Ebay , shows available Jan 15 2014
sierraoffroad
no matter where you go: there you are!
interresting that must be new. i finally heard back from Cedric, that my plate was shipping as of 12/16. i'm not exactly sure where it's coming from at this point.
Red dust
New Member
Any idea if it is possible to put the ACD on the 2014 model?
num
New Member
I got my new skid plate. No instructions, although it's straight forward I don't want to find out while the bike is apart i'm missing something. especially since it's 20 degrees out.
anyone have instructions that detail where the spacers go (i'm using alt rider bars if that makes a diff)
anyone have instructions that detail where the spacers go (i'm using alt rider bars if that makes a diff)
talonboy
Member
There is a video on the Ebay page that shows installation. That may help.num said:
sierraoffroad
no matter where you go: there you are!
hi sorry this doesn't answer your question, but how long did it take to get your skid plate from the time of ordering?
to answer your question the youtube video is very helpful.
to answer your question the youtube video is very helpful.
num said:
num
New Member
It took 8 days to get it. YouTube helped. Thanks.
bob dirt
Member
I got mine today. I ordered it on the 11th I think.
This seemed like a very good soloution to the problem of having to remove and reinstall the long 12mm bolts each time you drop the skid plate so I gave it a try.Don in Lodi said:
After a couple of trys local supplier managed to find 12mm x 1.25 x 80 mm grade #10, fully threaded bolts , along with some nuts and washers. They had nothing available that was plated for corrosion.
Which soon became 67mm long studs which is what was needed for my install with the Givi engine guards.
Double nut and tighten them into the block
Washer and nut equal the same thickness as the ACD supplied spacer and can be tightened down and not needed to be removed for skidplate removal.
A couple of washers and nylock nuts and done. Should make the skidplate re and re a little easier when it comes time for the oil change.
fredz43
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
BWC, thanks for the pics of your mod. That looks mucho better to me.
BWC good pictorial I've been searching for bolts to do the same thing. I could only find thread length of 50mm. After much Google fu I found these.
12mmx1.25x110mm of thread. 10.9 strength and zinc coated.
Not cheap I paid 12.50 a piece but worth it to me. 4 nuts and the plates off and those studs are like and extra hand.
12mmx1.25x110mm of thread. 10.9 strength and zinc coated.
Not cheap I paid 12.50 a piece but worth it to me. 4 nuts and the plates off and those studs are like and extra hand.
num
New Member
A couple of washers and nylock nuts and done. Should make the skidplate re and re a little easier when it comes time for the oil change.
How do you keep those headers so clean? ffs mine look 20 years old next to yours
How do you keep those headers so clean? ffs mine look 20 years old next to yours
num
New Member
Some install notes.
The mobil 1 (110) oil filter is too long for the skid plate so I had to switch back to a stock filter which also means i'm changing the filter every oil change now.
The springs holding the center stand on are very strong and require a little finesse.
The install is much easier when the super tenere is hung from the ceiling and the shims are already in place as per the video.
Pictures to come.
The mobil 1 (110) oil filter is too long for the skid plate so I had to switch back to a stock filter which also means i'm changing the filter every oil change now.
The springs holding the center stand on are very strong and require a little finesse.
The install is much easier when the super tenere is hung from the ceiling and the shims are already in place as per the video.
Pictures to come.
At one point they did look like this ;Dnum said:
But have looked like this on occasion. :-[
They were removed last winter and given a cleaning, but upon startup then turned back to their nice straw yellow colour. Some of the staining from the calcium chloride on the roads north seems to have permanetly stained the pipes where it got really baked on.
I did find a few US sources for the bolts that were a bit cheaper than I paid ($4.75 each).True Grip said:
McMaster Carr had 12mmx1.25 x 300mm long thread rod for around $30.00, but I like to try and give the local guys a chance on these sort of things first. Shipping to Canada kills any savings pretty quickly. The free or next to free shipping south of the Canadian border is something you guys can enjoy. And then theres UPS shipping costs to Canada. ::010::
num
New Member
So as stated before,
I had to put on a stock yamaha filter because the mobil 1 filter was too long. (are there any that fit?)
The center stand is a little bit of a wrestling match to get it all lined up.
It works great with the alt-rider bars and bolts that came with the skid plate.
A little thread lock was put on just to be safe
I also greased the outside of the sleeve for the rear bolts because otherwise it was just metal on metal contact.
Awesome coverage for this skid plate.
Bikes look a lot cleaner in pictures!!!
I had to put on a stock yamaha filter because the mobil 1 filter was too long. (are there any that fit?)
The center stand is a little bit of a wrestling match to get it all lined up.
It works great with the alt-rider bars and bolts that came with the skid plate.
A little thread lock was put on just to be safe
I also greased the outside of the sleeve for the rear bolts because otherwise it was just metal on metal contact.
Awesome coverage for this skid plate.
Bikes look a lot cleaner in pictures!!!
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
A couple of comments on using long bolts cut off for studs. Before, the bolt threaded into the aluminum engine block only as far as it had to to tighten down on the motor mounts. Now you have bottomed the new bolt into the block, which is not necessarily a good idea. It wasn't intended to take that stress and who knows how thick the material is there.
I like the concept, as removing the motor mount bolts every time you want to do an oil change never excited me. But you should be finding some actual studs for this task. Studs have a non-threaded middle section and the stud tightens down on that, not the bottom of the hole. And you don't torque them down, just thread them in and locktite them in place. Then you have a good base for the nuts to tighten on the motor mounts, though pulling the engine might require removal of the studs, should you ever need to do that.
CLICKY
And keep an eye on those nylock nuts, the headers get plenty hot. Probably not an issue, but it wouldn't hurt to eyeball them after a few rides.
A good hardware store or some place like Fastanal might be able to source you studs in the correct dimensions and a rust resistant finish.
I like the concept, as removing the motor mount bolts every time you want to do an oil change never excited me. But you should be finding some actual studs for this task. Studs have a non-threaded middle section and the stud tightens down on that, not the bottom of the hole. And you don't torque them down, just thread them in and locktite them in place. Then you have a good base for the nuts to tighten on the motor mounts, though pulling the engine might require removal of the studs, should you ever need to do that.
CLICKY
And keep an eye on those nylock nuts, the headers get plenty hot. Probably not an issue, but it wouldn't hurt to eyeball them after a few rides.
A good hardware store or some place like Fastanal might be able to source you studs in the correct dimensions and a rust resistant finish.
EricV, Good info. that should be added regarding the studs. I did find that 12mmx1.25 metric thread anything has a very limited selection. The bottoming of the studs was considered on the install. The studs were tightened down, then backed out a couple of turns for just that reason. Although I think its more for good practice, than necessity. Installed them with anti-sieze lube instead of threadlocker as heat is whats normally used to release threadlocker. I 'm confident they will stay in, its getting them out later thats the concern.
Held the studs with the jamb nuts and tightened the nut to the block.
And I think there is an off chance for the nylock fricton part of the nuts to melt, but if thats happening at that location, and the bikes that hot, I think melted nylock will be the least of my problems.
Held the studs with the jamb nuts and tightened the nut to the block.
And I think there is an off chance for the nylock fricton part of the nuts to melt, but if thats happening at that location, and the bikes that hot, I think melted nylock will be the least of my problems.
cosmic
Member
Mine arrived home yesterday, but not me. Stuck in Dakar. Merde...
©
©