A photo of that left boot would be great. Really sounds like an intake leak.
New engine vibrations bad gas? Or something else? On the road, need suggestions.
- Thread starter cory1848
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cory1848
Member
Not the greatest pic but you can see the residue on the boot/TB.
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
If you had a flash done don't let the service manager know this.
I would take it in and let them fiddle with the issue your under warranty keep taking it back if the issue continues.
The dirt particles around the TB dose not look good but the TB looks firmly planted into the boot and the clamp tight.
Do your headers look a different color form one another, any timing chain chatter going on? ::017::
All will be revealed I am guessing. :-\
I would take it in and let them fiddle with the issue your under warranty keep taking it back if the issue continues.
The dirt particles around the TB dose not look good but the TB looks firmly planted into the boot and the clamp tight.
Do your headers look a different color form one another, any timing chain chatter going on? ::017::
All will be revealed I am guessing. :-\
+1 to what Ramseybella wrote.
I'd try an allan wrench on both the band clamp and the cylinder bolts that you can reach.
I'd try an allan wrench on both the band clamp and the cylinder bolts that you can reach.
cory1848
Member
No chain chatter but the trip did add some bluing to the headers but they are both pretty even.Ramseybella said:
shrekonwheels
New Member
Interesting on oil consumption and loss of power on the 12 while riding two up.
I would like to hear from others living at higher altitudes, Mile high here with lots of passes.
Thus far I have not had an oil consumption issue at all, not any loss of power going up hills loaded two up.
I would like to hear from others living at higher altitudes, Mile high here with lots of passes.
Thus far I have not had an oil consumption issue at all, not any loss of power going up hills loaded two up.
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
Living in Northern New Mexico I do a lot of riding in the high altitude, mainly Colorado I get better mileage in higher altitude.
Been hot on most of my rides last trip to Colorado was no exception, but I did do a lot of stop and go on that trip Outside of Poncha Springs heading to Gunnison.
Bunch of construction going on and slow hot riding stop go stop go creeping along up hill some clutch feathering..
My bike is at 35k and it seems to burn a little oil but never notice loss of performance.
Been hot on most of my rides last trip to Colorado was no exception, but I did do a lot of stop and go on that trip Outside of Poncha Springs heading to Gunnison.
Bunch of construction going on and slow hot riding stop go stop go creeping along up hill some clutch feathering..
My bike is at 35k and it seems to burn a little oil but never notice loss of performance.
Nimbus
New Member
I went to CO two years ago and burned about 1 qt of oil over 5,000 miles. The bike used oil across Kansas mostly. Battling a head wind for 8 or so hours at 80mph indicated and 100F (both ways...lucky me). My gas mileage was around the upper 30's. Once I got there (Golden), I did a day ride in the mountains and got my best fuel mileage ever (upwards of 56mpg). Then, for the next week or so, my wife and I did 2-up on a lot of 2 lane 55mph roads and mountain passes and the bike didn't burn any oil. The fuel mileage continued to be excellent at altitude.
Basically, the bike uses oil for me when I'm cruising long stretches of interstate.
Basically, the bike uses oil for me when I'm cruising long stretches of interstate.
cory1848
Member
Made an appointment for Wednesday at the dealer. They are charging me a $99 diagnostic fee and if something is found that is warrantied, then they get Yamaha to cover that, if not, then I am on the hook for it. Not sure how I feel about that. Wonder if a vacuum leak or intake leak from a loose connection constitutes a warranty claim. Anyways, going to wash the bike and let them find something, hopefully.
Don in Lodi
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Don't blast that residue off the intake, it could be an indicator of something.cory1848 said:
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Just a thought, could there be an EMI situation going on? Or a bad contact on the contact point in the TPS/ APS?
cory1848
Member
Yea, maybe I won't wash it just yet.Don in Lodi said:
cory1848
Member
IDK, I don't have the means to check that. Hopefully the dealer finds something.Dogdaze said:
2daMax
Active Member
You may try adding a little engine oil at the boot/nipple to seal the leak temporarily n go for a ride. If it runs fine...confirms a vacuum leak. Though before turning it to the dealer have the oil surfaces clean up.
cory1848
Member
Dropped bike off at dealer last night. Said they were going to take a few days to go through it which I dont mind. In process of moving now which sucks so getting it out of the garage actually helps.
cory1848
Member
So after a week of the bike in the shop, they just called me and said they can't find anything wrong with it. WTF. I guess I was imagining everything. The tech is going to go over tomorrow with the service manager so I am told to check for anything last minute. For a bike that handles RTW trips without issues, I am now questioning the reliability of the bike and if it will be up for long touring trips. I love the bike and something is definitely not right but since nothing can be found it cant be corrected. Not sure what to do. 
Don in Lodi
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No codes came back? Did you give them the list of codes the other shop pulled?
I'd first be sure you can repeatedly and reliably reproduce the problem and that they acknowledge it. Don't be afraid to get very specific with written instructions on how to cause the problem and the exact symptoms. If you can't reproduce the problem consistently, I'd just ride the bike until hopefully it gets worse. If you can reproduce the problem and they keep blowing you off, escalate to Cypress. Keep a log of your communication.
You might try a different dealer. Some have the expertise and interest in debugging a difficult issue, others don't want to bother and just want you to go away. A big problem is that Yamaha generally only pays the dealer for fixing something, not trial/error work or lengthy diagnostics so you're sorta depending on dealer goodwill to do anything more than the basic diagnostics. And some dealers have excellent relationships with the national folks who get escalated issues.
And nothing wrong with simply cutting your losses and moving on. Some battles aren't worth fighting.
- Mark
You might try a different dealer. Some have the expertise and interest in debugging a difficult issue, others don't want to bother and just want you to go away. A big problem is that Yamaha generally only pays the dealer for fixing something, not trial/error work or lengthy diagnostics so you're sorta depending on dealer goodwill to do anything more than the basic diagnostics. And some dealers have excellent relationships with the national folks who get escalated issues.
And nothing wrong with simply cutting your losses and moving on. Some battles aren't worth fighting.
- Mark
cory1848
Member
Yes. And they said they weren't error codes but rather measurement numbers. I can't imagine the shop in Denver not knowing the difference since they handle a lot of ST. The Denver shop did say they were stored codes and not necessarily current. Which is why they cleared them.Don in Lodi said:
Would a vacuum leak through a CEL? I have no idea what to look for now.
Don in Lodi
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In the automotive world it would throw a lean code. If one hole is lean enough it could set a misfire code. If the vac line is a source of vacuum for another device, like the MAP sensor, it could set a code for that.
Do you have an old school propane torch kicking around? They're about the most accurate way to pin point a vac leak. Sure, spraying various liquids around do the trick, but the whole over spray thing renders the results as pretty general. That build up at the base of your intake runner would be a good place to wave a trickle of propane at. Get at the base of the injectors too, they're O-ring sealed at the intake. With the engine warmed up, if the propane gets sucked in, it will make an rpm change. Propane dissipates quickly, the source of the vac leak should be right at the tip of the torch.
If it were me, I think I'd spring for a new MAP sensor. In this application it's an important little sensor. It could be throwing off the injector pulse width if it's not reading manifold pressure right. The BARO side of it could be telling the computer you're at 40,000 feet of elevation or something.
The water temp sensor seems to be accurate, no -40F readings on the dash.
Is air temp reading within 10 of ambient?
MAP and TPS are the only ones we can't see a reading for.
I'd think if you had a Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP) going wacko you'd have a lot more issues.
These don't have a cam shaft sensor, (CMP). At least I didn't notice one.
Your O2 sensors are hooked up, right?
Umm, I know it's obvious, but, don't lite the torch.
Do you have an old school propane torch kicking around? They're about the most accurate way to pin point a vac leak. Sure, spraying various liquids around do the trick, but the whole over spray thing renders the results as pretty general. That build up at the base of your intake runner would be a good place to wave a trickle of propane at. Get at the base of the injectors too, they're O-ring sealed at the intake. With the engine warmed up, if the propane gets sucked in, it will make an rpm change. Propane dissipates quickly, the source of the vac leak should be right at the tip of the torch.
If it were me, I think I'd spring for a new MAP sensor. In this application it's an important little sensor. It could be throwing off the injector pulse width if it's not reading manifold pressure right. The BARO side of it could be telling the computer you're at 40,000 feet of elevation or something.
The water temp sensor seems to be accurate, no -40F readings on the dash.
Is air temp reading within 10 of ambient?
MAP and TPS are the only ones we can't see a reading for.
I'd think if you had a Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP) going wacko you'd have a lot more issues.
These don't have a cam shaft sensor, (CMP). At least I didn't notice one.
Your O2 sensors are hooked up, right?
Umm, I know it's obvious, but, don't lite the torch.