New engine vibrations bad gas? Or something else? On the road, need suggestions.

[Ramseybella]

This may be true, however in my issues, this is out of character for what I was experiencing for an entire year prior to my trip. And it only started after 600 miles from when I started the trip. That is when all of the other "symptoms" started as well. I find it very strange that in the dead of summer in the Florida heat, the bike would run 195ish at 60mph highway when its 100 degrees outside. Then in the mountains with temps averaging 60-70 degrees, even 30 degrees when I woke up in Yellowstone, that the bike still would show 205-215 temp at speed and not get below 200. The fan constantly being on would tell me more than an idiot light would. Even my wife as a passenger commented on it. I didnt test this but without the fan, I am positive the bike would have overheated even at speed.

This is completely out of character for any bike which is why I believe this is a key factor in whatever is going wrong. This is not normal. I am not comparing mine to any other bike out there either, I am comparing it to past experience with the same bike. Cooling issue, sensor issue, fueling issue, IDK. Whatever it is, I need it fixed. I really don't care what the issue is as long as the bike runs as normal.

Plugs have not been changed, letting the dealer deal with that. Hopefully they check that.

Tell them to make it a point to check them!!!

 

[cory1848]

Nothing strange about it, the air thins as you ride to higher altitudes and the also varies according to humidity. Florida is very humid, that itself will lend to a more dense air than Montana which is very Arid. Since you have less air in Montana your bike will run hotter.
You are driving yourself crazy over nothing, the heat aspect is an on issue. So long as the bike is not overheating ride and enjoy yourself.
As to the shudder, I still think it was a fueling issue, but then again it may have been a faulty plug. At times the ceramic of a plug can crack and make your bike run poorly, Simply examining the plug may or may not see this crack.
Until the bike acts up again, you are simply wasting your time at dealerships who are merely chasing ghosts.

You missed the part that this started in Alabama... right after I left Georgia actually. If you have never been to this part of the country, it is just, if not more, hot and humid as Florida is. It is about the same altitude as well. The only thing preventing the bike from overheating was the fan.

I appreciate your input though.

 

[cory1848]

Tell them to make it a point to check them!!!

Well yea...

 

[cory1848]

Well dealer not finding anything. So I guess I am "Chasing ghosts" and making it all up.

Stuck throttle Yamaha says to check voltage on sensors which they did and came back in check. Temp issues Yamaha says is normal which is BS. I asked the service writer if they pulled plugs and checked for vacuum leaks, and he said "I imagine he did" doesn't leave me with too much optimism on that so when I pick it up I will talk to the tech himself.

Should have wasted a day of my trip and let the Denver dealer diagnosis it. Since they will be charging me a "didnt find anything" fee I guess I am left to finding this out on my own if the problem presents itself again. Will do a TB sync, pull plugs, change fluids and replace vacuum cap. Outside of that I have no idea.

Thanks for any and all help that was given. Really appreciated. Hopefully the bike doesn't leave me stranded somewhere.

 

[cory1848]

Picked the bike up from the dealer and it is running well. Talked with the GM of the shop for about 30 minutes regarding my concerns and what the tech went over, etc. Said they checked for vacuum leaks using brake cleaner, didn't pull plugs which left me a little peeved, but they did check TPS sensors and MAP sensors which came back in check to Yamahas specs. They don't replace parts (TPS sensor) unless a proven fault is found and since this appears to be intermittent (throttle stuck) they say its fine. I know I am not the only one who has experienced a stuck throttle so not sure what do to there. No idea on the running hot issue. Might pack a spare fan with me on long trips cause it the stock one burns up, I am in trouble.

I am going to do a TB sync and check for vacuum leaks with propane once I have a chance. It was 94 degrees yesterday and temp hovered at 196 which was what I have experienced as normal. Going to pull plugs and see what they look like as well. Might just replace them. I know there is an underlying problem somewhere. I expect it won't get sorted out unless a mechanic is with me and it happens again. Shop said if it happens again, bring it back (with another diagnostic fee or course). I can't really complain about the shop too much as they had the bike 2 weeks, went over it fully (from what I was told) and did a really nice detail (showroom clean) for $99. They really wanted to help but just couldn't find anything.

So for now, after the post trip service I will do, will ride it until it fails and not worry about it. Next trip Florida to Smoky Mountains in October. With all of the issues I experienced, I would like to know what is the underlying cause. Outside of checking plugs, vacuum leak, etc? Any other suggestions are welcomed. Seems like something really simple causing all of this, but sometimes the simplest things are the hardest to find.

Thanks!

 

[shrekonwheels]

Glad it is running better, I honestly would just ride until it starts acting up again.

My chasing ghosts comment was not a insult, it is what happens when a problem is intermittent, and can drive the best Mechanics bonkers.

There is a thread here about sticking throttle and how to solve it. What I remember is you have to manually fluctuate the butterfly valves as they get sticky.

Good luck, I hope you do not have future problems and have many miles of happyness.

 

[Nimbus]

I'm with you in spirit! Mine did the low idle trick yesterday and then, when I pulled in the clutch at 50mph just shut off. Dead. It restarted when I let the clutch out. Did the high idle (~2000rpm) thing a few times, then idled at 1300, then normal. Then, when I stopped at the side of the road to watch a bald eagle, it idled low and shut off. But, it threw a code (60: the worthless non-specific YCCT code). Today, it did the same thing (sans code) but after cycling on/off a couple times it ran perfectly and flawlessly for 50 miles and several starts. I stand by my assessment that it cannot be a vacuum leak or other purely mechanical issue as it utterly disappears after a restart. I'm tempted to just buy a new throttle servo motor. I swear that at times, I hear a high pitched whine at steady throttle at 50 or so mph and when using the diagnostic function the noise is nearly deafening in an irritating high pitched way.

 

[Ramseybella]

Didn't mean to sound loud Cory about the Insistence on telling them check the plugs before you left the bike at the shop, but I have found in the past that they can tell you anything, you have no proof to back it up on what they are telling you.
And they didn't check them no surprise as it's a PITA but they where honest in telling you they didn't, but to me that is lazy diagnostics for $99.00!

I think I have asked this a few times already but any recent ECU Flashes done on your bike?

 

[cory1848]

Didn't mean to sound loud Cory about the Insistence on telling them check the plugs before you left the bike at the shop, but I have found in the past that they can tell you anything, you have no proof to back it up on what they are telling you.
And they didn't check them no surprise as it's a PITA but they where honest in telling you they didn't, but to me that is lazy diagnostics for $99.00!

I think I have asked this a few times already but any recent ECU Flashes done on your bike?

No worries on the loud part

Although they didnt "find" anything they were looking and believed they checked more than what I currently know. All that diag stuff I am not familiar with so for the $100 and a really good showroom detail, cant complain too much. Going to have to figure out the plug thing though. May be a lazy diagnostics but not sure what else they would check, besides the plugs.

Yes to the flash. Anthony did the flash about a month before my trip. I am not sure if any of this cant circle around to that flash though.

 

[VPS1]

There was a thread or two a while back about ECU wires being too close to something and causing high idles. You had your ECU out, maybe something to look at?

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5692.msg99833#msg99833

 

[cory1848]

There was a thread or two a while back about ECU wires being too close to something and causing high idles. You had your ECU out, maybe something to look at?

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5692.msg99833#msg99833

Thanks, I will double check all that.

 

[Ramseybella]

There was a thread or two a while back about ECU wires being too close to something and causing high idles. You had your ECU out, maybe something to look at?

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5692.msg99833#msg99833

Weird?
I remember everything going back the way I took mine out when i got it back from Anthony, certainly an easy task to do.

Not trying to point in any one direction as i have had the ECU flashed a month or more ago, just doing some detective work. ::003::

 

[cory1848]

Weird?
I remember everything going back the way I took mine out when i got it back from Anthony, certainly an easy task to do.

Not trying to point in any one direction as i have had the ECU flashed a month or more ago, just doing some detective work. ::003::

Mine too but it was tight getting the connector to clip into the ECU. Not a difficult check though.

 

[jbrown]

The issue with removing and replacing the ECU potentially causing trouble is likely related to moving wires around such that there is signal coupling between some wires. This used to be a common problem in digital circuits as clock frequencies rose. Just re-positioning wires a bit could make a difference.

Regarding running temperatures, I think someone earlier in this thread said their bike generally ran from 140 F to 160 F, only seldom getting to 180 or so. Since the thermostat starts opening at 160 F and is completely open at 183 (+- 3 F, according to the shop manual), a bike running at 140 for an extended time points to either a bad temperature sensor, or a bad thermostat. It seems likely to me that the 140 F bike has a sensor that is offset by 20 F or so, meaning the actual normal running temperature is 160 to 180, with occasional trips to 200. Any running temp below the thermostat opening set point should lead you to looking for a problem.
I'd guess that a flaky temperature sensor could also mess up the fuel mixture by feeding wrong information to the ECU, causing poor running and vibration. Backing off to an easy cruise throttle setting would allow the closed loop mixture adjustment to compensate and improve the apparent smoothness.

 

[WJBertrand]

With respect to running temperatures, my '15 ES will generally run between 170 and 180F on the open road at highway speed and depending on ambient temps. In stop and go traffic in warm weather (ok hot weather) the temp will rise to about 210-212F before the fan switches on. The highest temperature I've seen is 230F in stopped traffic on the freeway in Las Vegas with ambient temps around 105F. Gotta say I was getting plenty nervous about it but the display never showed "Hi" at which point the owner's manual recommends stopping and letting the bike cool off. Once underway again, the temps very quickly came back to 190 and eventually 180. The bike seems no worse for the wear.

 

[cory1848]

Went on a 200 mile ride this weekend, 88 degrees out in the Florida sun. Bike ran perfect. Temps sitting at 178 degrees while highway cruising, vibration that I was experiencing was non existent and overall no issues, except maybe for low idle at stop lights, felt like it was going to stall, sitting at 1000 rpms but never did stall. Whatever I was experiencing was not present this weekend.

 

[Ramseybella]

Went on a 200 mile ride this weekend, 88 degrees out in the Florida sun. Bike ran perfect. Temps sitting at 178 degrees while highway cruising, vibration that I was experiencing was non existent and overall no issues, except maybe for low idle at stop lights, felt like it was going to stall, sitting at 1000 rpms but never did stall. Whatever I was experiencing was not present this weekend.

Mine has been doing the same but has not died at a stop.
YET!! ???

 

[RhodeTrip]

A lean condition can cause an engine to run hotter than normal... and a loss of power.

+1 on the lean condition making it run hot but my experience is bikes run like a scalded dog when lean and milage goes up.

 

[Ramseybella]

Still an unsolved mystery that needs to be solved! ::017::
It happened to me again two weeks or so ago, I know the feel now while it's running so I just keep her gassed at a light until I can pull into or pull over some place.
I let it sit for a few and then it is back to normal when I start it up.
This is SNAFU stuff and getting Damn annoying as well.

 

[cory1848]

Something isn't right. I haven't ridden much lately due to work so I havent experienced anything new. I need to bring it in for its 8K service though. If you find anything that fixes it, please report back.