How to gain access to the Diagnostic Mode CO adjustment

[KSH]

After reading this thread and the airscrew adjustment thread I am just a little confused.

I have a 49-State model that idles properly and has no stumble.

The airscrew adjustment would not be applicable for me then, correct? It's purpose is not a performance enhancement so much as cure for a problem related to mostly CA-model bikes?

I had a properly running 49 state model, but was unhappy with the T mode and city riding "Did not notice it in S mode"
Adjusted air screw and balanced, and yes, it is a performance enhancer ::015::

 

[Yamaguy55]

After reading this thread and the airscrew adjustment thread I am just a little confused.

I have a 49-State model that idles properly and has no stumble.

The airscrew adjustment would not be applicable for me then, correct? It's purpose is not a performance enhancement so much as cure for a problem related to mostly CA-model bikes?

The CO adjustment on the other hand is related to performance enhancement as opposed to correcting a problem? It is being done only by those that have re-mapped their fueling computers or installed aftermarket fueling computers or is of benefit to all bikes? It is intended to increase low rpm HP and torque? What are the pros and cons of this adjustment: Fuel economy, emissions, cat converter, legality? How do you judge the correct amount of adjustment?

My guess is that your higher elevation would most likely negate some of the stuff that our lower elevation would show. Our denser air, and thus greater oxygen content, would tend to make ours somewhat leaner. FI/ECM engines compensate for this, but not perfectly. Therefore, yours may be just fine as is, for where you live and ride. Dryer, cooler air has more O2, and so does lower elevation. High humidity and temps have less, along with higher elevations.

CO is essentially the old "mixture screw" on a carb. The TB sync with the air screw is the replacement for the screws on each carb linkage that we used to turn to get them all to pull equally on multi-cylinder bikes. The concept is the same, the methods and items are different.

 

[Yamaguy55]

I finally got around to this today; it makes a slight difference just off idle. But nothing like the snc does. Between the engine break in and the sync, MPG has improved from about 44-45 to 47-48, all on the same roads.

BTW: I made up a harness that looks like it is factory, and the connector I used now resides under the seat. I then use a U-link to activate diagnostic mode. Easy once Koinz had me understand English! ::013::

 

[jajpko]

I did mine today. Bumped it up +3 on each cyl. It leveled the idle at 1100. Still have a slight stumble when taken off, but I think the tbs will take care of that. Would have done today but have a full tank to ride off tomorrow. ::26::

 

[Bigbore4]

Agree with Yammguy55. I am a flat lander here in MN, maybe 1000 ft altitude. Mine has all the hesitation, roughness, surging, and has died numerous times pulling in to traffic. All symptomatic of lean calibration.

I was out and about last week and had the bike at altitude. From western Nebraska, into CO and up to southern WY, the higher I took it the better it ran.

I am planning to visit my dealer and have a go at getting Yamaha to correct it. The engine quitting I don't like at all. It happened several times while pulling out into traffic. If that fails I plan to use all the great info in this thread and the air screw thread and correct it myself.

<snipped>

I have a 49-State model that idles properly and has no stumble.

My guess is that your higher elevation would most likely negate some of the stuff that our lower elevation would show. Our denser air, and thus greater oxygen content, would tend to make ours somewhat leaner. FI/ECM engines compensate for this, but not perfectly. Therefore, yours may be just fine as is, for where you live and ride. Dryer, cooler air has more O2, and so does lower elevation. High humidity and temps have less, along with higher elevations.

CO is essentially the old "mixture screw" on a carb. The TB sync with the air screw is the replacement for the screws on each carb linkage that we used to turn to get them all to pull equally on multi-cylinder bikes. The concept is the same, the methods and items are different.

 

[Dallara]

~


Funny...

I live literally at sea level on the Texas Gulf Coast, and my S-10 is 1,500 miles on it doesn't hesitate, surge, etc. and has only died once in traffic... Though I think that might have been my fault. I ride it pretty hard, too. Didn't really baby it during break-in too much, either. Just kept the revs down most of the time while cruising and took to up near redline enough I knew the rings got seated. Mine is completely stock, too.

Now it has been hotter than Hades down here the past month since I got it, and our humidity on the coast is always high, so that might have something to do with it... Hot air being less dense and all, etc. Highest temp I've been out riding it in is 109 degrees up near San Antonio (it's about 800 ft. elevation), and the lowest I've ridden in since I got the bike was 93 degrees. Most riding has been right at the 100 degree mark.

Needless to say I can't wait for some Fall weather to get here...

Dallara



~

 

[Zuan]

So... I adjusted my CO settings today. I started by setting both cylinders to +3. It could be just my imagination, but I perceived an improvement in throttle response, particularly in coming off idle. After riding about 200 kms, I felt there was room for more improvement. I now have the CO settings at +5. I still need to synchronize the throttle bodies, but will do that when my Harmonizer tool arrives.

 

[tomatocity]

So... I adjusted my CO settings today. I started by setting both cylinders to +3. It could be just my imagination, but I perceived an improvement in throttle response, particularly in coming off idle. After riding about 200 kms, I felt there was room for more improvement. I now have the CO settings at +5. I still need to synchronize the throttle bodies, but will do that when my Harmonizer tool arrives.

Did you find a difference between +3 and +5 ?

 

[Zuan]

Did you find a difference between +3 and +5 ?

I haven't had a chance yet to ride with the +5 setting. Hopefully, tomorrow and I will report if I find a difference.

 

[RomKnight]

Guys,

I've read the whole thread. I'm getting my BMC air filter (hopefully this week) so i'm going to wait before messing with CO settings. But before I do I still have some questions.

First, mine never died on traffic or even off-road and I ride mostly with mode T (I ride a lot with my 10yr daughter). I can check with the GPS but I'm near a coast line so I figure almost at sea level :

Anyway, I do feel the "rumble" after 2500rpm and you guys say that just by upping the CO (lets say 3 for starters) will increase the fuel in the F/A ratio. I don't know about the throttle body adjustments (nor I want to mess with it) or even twisting a little screw without real measures.

So, questions:

- After insert the BMC p/n FM623/04 and ride a few kms just adjusting the CO will, eventually, improve the smoothness of the ride?
- If so, I should feel the same in Mode S already. I don't. The "rumble" is there (but its my first twin so maybe its me and that flat 4s feeling )
- If I mess with CO maybe T mode will be OK but then Mode S will probably be richer (which eventually, I will ear when decelerating : )

Good thing I don't have to by pass anything or wire plug this to that

 

[Bundu]

- After insert the BMC p/n FM623/04 and ride a few kms just adjusting the CO will, eventually, improve the smoothness of the ride?
- If so, I should feel the same in Mode S already. I don't. The "rumble" is there (but its my first twin so maybe its me and that flat 4s feeling )
- If I mess with CO maybe T mode will be OK but then Mode S will probably be richer (which eventually, I will ear when decelerating : )

Good thing I don't have to by pass anything or wire plug this to that

AFAIK the 'T' and 'S' modes do not change the CO - these modes only re-calibrate the throttle, so as an example, opening the throttle by 90degrees in 'S' mode, would for example be like opening the throttle by 120degrees in 'T' mode - So according to my understanding, the modes would be similarly affected by CO changes.
Do you feel the "rumble" in all the gears?

 

[RomKnight]

I think its because its a twin... But yes, all gears after ~3500 rpm even in T mode (although they're more smooth). I rarely go above 5000 anyway except, maybe, when off-road but I'm not looking, obviously.

Its specially noted when recovering without gearing down. Actually, I tend to notice it when I ride with my daughter... hmm.

Anyway, my worries are about CO adjustment after changing from the stock air filter. I'm not buying a race type filter anyway so I probably won't even change de CO settings

 

[Blue_eyes]

Guys,

I've read the whole thread. I'm getting my BMC air filter (hopefully this week) so i'm going to wait before messing with CO settings. But before I do I still have some questions.

First, mine never died on traffic or even off-road and I ride mostly with mode T (I ride a lot with my 10yr daughter). I can check with the GPS but I'm near a coast line so I figure almost at sea level :

Anyway, I do feel the "rumble" after 2500rpm and you guys say that just by upping the CO (lets say 3 for starters) will increase the fuel in the F/A ratio. I don't know about the throttle body adjustments (nor I want to mess with it) or even twisting a little screw without real measures.

So, questions:

- After insert the BMC p/n FM623/04 and ride a few kms just adjusting the CO will, eventually, improve the smoothness of the ride?
- If so, I should feel the same in Mode S already. I don't. The "rumble" is there (but its my first twin so maybe its me and that flat 4s feeling )
- If I mess with CO maybe T mode will be OK but then Mode S will probably be richer (which eventually, I will ear when decelerating : )

Good thing I don't have to by pass anything or wire plug this to that

The "rumble" is gone when you install an aftermarket slip-on like the Akra. That was my first mod and that eliminated the rmble and loosened up some extra HP. Read the topic's discussing the PowerCommander PC V and you'll soon be hooked to what improvements changes in the exhaust system can bring you. If you want the rumble to be gone, get another exhaust, that eliminates the rumble immediately, you can take my word for it. And many others have experienced the same!

 

[SpeedStar]

::026:: ::012:: ::026:: ::008::
Agree completely.

 

[simmons1]

The "rumble" is gone when you install an aftermarket slip-on like the Akra. That was my first mod and that eliminated the rmble and loosened up some extra HP. Read the topic's discussing the PowerCommander PC V and you'll soon be hooked to what improvements changes in the exhaust system can bring you. If you want the rumble to be gone, get another exhaust, that eliminates the rumble immediately, you can take my word for it. And many others have experienced the same!

+1 I agree completely. I have been reading all about the complaints of stumbling, rumbling, stalling etc. I haven't experienced this at all. I did two things to my bike the day after I picked it up. I installed an Akra can, and I adjusted the throttle cable to remove all the slack that was in it from the factory.

 

[RomKnight]

I just can't buy the Akra ATM... Not that I don't want to but tim€ is short...

 

[digitalmoto]

I took Devin's idea and made it my own with a few adjustments.

I grounded the jumper under the black plastic bolt point (circled)

I tucked the green wire into a section of black shrink wrap and ran the loop up under the front saddle. I added a spade quick connecter for disconnecting the jumper when it isn't needed. After I've finished my adjustments, I can tuck the excess wire and connector back into the shrink wrap and stash it with wiring bundle at the bottom of the storage area.

As for the actual adjustment I struggled a bit even after reading the article on the FJR adjustments. I figure I'm not alone so here are the steps I went through to adjust my CO settings.

1) Hold down both buttons on the front of the dash.

2) Turn the key to ON.

3) Wait about 10 seconds.

4) The screen will change to diagnostic mode.

5) Press the left button once to access the CO screen.

6) Press and hold both buttons for about 3 seconds to access cylinder 1's adjustment screen.

7) Adjust the CO value. Press the left button to add 1. Press the right button to subtract 1.

8) Press both buttons to exit the adjustment screen.

9) Press the left button once to access the second cylinder.

10) Go back to step #6 to adjust the settings for C:02.

11) When you are finished with your adjustments, turn the key to off.

12) Open beer.


Let me know if I missed anything!

 

[Tremor38]

The "rumble" is gone when you install an aftermarket slip-on like the Akra. That was my first mod and that eliminated the rmble and loosened up some extra HP. Read the topic's discussing the PowerCommander PC V and you'll soon be hooked to what improvements changes in the exhaust system can bring you. If you want the rumble to be gone, get another exhaust, that eliminates the rumble immediately, you can take my word for it. And many others have experienced the same!

Huh? I still have the stock exhaust and am wondering what you guys mean by 'rumble.' Do you mean that cool-sounding low note that sounds like large-block V8 when you first take off from a stop?

If so, what's so undesirable about that? ::005:: ...I like that noise. ::26::

 

[Don in Lodi]

I think if I remember right, 'rumble' was a translation thing. I've been reading 'vibration' into the sentences myself.

 

[tomatocity]

I took Devin's idea and made it my own with a few adjustments.

I grounded the jumper under the black plastic bolt point (circled)

I tucked the green wire into a section of black shrink wrap and ran the loop up under the front saddle. I added a spade quick connecter for disconnecting the jumper when it isn't needed. After I've finished my adjustments, I can tuck the excess wire and connector back into the shrink wrap and stash it with wiring bundle at the bottom of the storage area.

As for the actual adjustment I struggled a bit even after reading the article on the FJR adjustments. I figure I'm not alone so here are the steps I went through to adjust my CO settings.

1) Hold down both buttons on the front of the dash.

2) Turn the key to ON.

3) Wait about 10 seconds.

4) The screen will change to diagnostic mode.

5) Press the left button once to access the CO screen.

6) Press and hold both buttons for about 3 seconds to access cylinder 1's adjustment screen.

7) Adjust the CO value. Press the left button to add 1. Press the right button to subtract 1.

8) Press both buttons to exit the adjustment screen.

9) Press the left button once to access the second cylinder.

10) Go back to step #6 to adjust the settings for C:02.

11) When you are finished with your adjustments, turn the key to off.

12) Open beer.


Let me know if I missed anything!

Thank you very much for the pictured instructions. I need to complete this soon.

Questions:

--- What is the size of the Green/Brown wire you are tapping. I need to get the splice.

--- Just a question: should #10 include: go back to step #6, #7, & 8 to adjust the settings for C:02.

Hopefully I can complete this tomorrow and follow with the throttle body balance (again) using the Harmonizer. My gas mileage has dropped approximately 10 MPG.