Clutch Basket Remove/Upgrade/Installation

[Koinz]

I've not replaced my basket and gone down this road yet..... But could this have anything to do with the new ball 'bearing' that happens to be a new part number.. Could this be a different 'OD' that then translates into a different spec (length) on the throw out bearing ? People are beginning to talk about this topic about the plate, but not many people have brought up the new ball and it "possibly" being a different size per a new specific part number.........

Just a thought... I've not gotten into it and used a micrometer on the parts....

no idea, it's all speculation. the new basket seems to work fine with the original parts, so whether some of the other parts have different sizes seems to be a big black hole. 8) :question:

 

[OldRider]

I've not replaced my basket and gone down this road yet..... But could this have anything to do with the new ball 'bearing' that happens to be a new part number.. Could this be a different 'OD' that then translates into a different spec (length) on the throw out bearing ? People are beginning to talk about this topic about the plate, but not many people have brought up the new ball and it "possibly" being a different size per a new specific part number.........

Just a thought... I've not gotten into it and used a micrometer on the parts....

Both part numbers are 11/32 ball bearings and are used in Yamaha clutches as far back as 1975, so I doubt the bearing was a problem.

 

[OldRider]

The Wrong way is not positioning the first disc on a landing that limits how it engages. Do this at your own risk. I don't fully understand why Yamaha does this. Like I mentioned in a previous post, they may have done it as a wear indicator to check your disc's if your clutch begins to slip. I would always say "follow the instructions in the manual"

Disclaimer
I assume no responsibility for any damage that might occur if you choose to do this.

I just sent an email to the guys at Barnett to see if they knew why Yamaha wants the last plate put in different. I don't see how it makes any difference which set of grooves the last plate goes in.

 

[OldRider]

I just a reply back from Chance at Barnett and if anyone knows clutches, these guys do.

"That's the way most OE manufactures do it. The baskets are cast and as you measure the basket tabs they get wider as from inside to outside so they offset that plate for better clearances."

 

[Koinz]

I just a reply back from Chance at Barnett and if anyone knows clutches, these guys do.

"That's the way most OE manufactures do it. The baskets are cast and as you measure the basket tabs they get wider as from inside to outside so they offset that plate for better clearances."

Offset is one thing, but why does it sit on a ledge? Mine was offset too, but I didn't have it on a ledged offset.

 

[OldRider]

Offset is one thing, but why does it sit on a ledge? Mine was offset too, but I didn't have it on a ledged offset.

I think they only had to make that slot just deep enough to let the friction plate do it's job.

 

[imcja]

Completed the swap today.

Have some DOT4 on hand. Just over 3k on the bike and had never checked the fluid in the clutch reservoir (should have). Once clutch spring was tight I gave the lever a squeeze...felt like a wet noodle. Bled the hydraulics and all is good.

Clutch pick-up and feel is no different from old to new basket (same spring so I suspect it shouldn't be). But that smooth acceleration up thru the RPMs is way different...way better!

Balls! New on the left...slight color difference...a different supplier? thus different part #? I used a magnet on one end of an allen wrench and stuck the other end in to retrieve the ball.



Pull the rubber frame plug and stick a deep socket (19mm in photo) in there for your EBC to rest against. 30mm socket/nut.



The offset disk (keep in mind I only have 3300 on the clock) has many millimeters until it will come in contact with the clutch basket 'shelves'. Yes this is the old basket, but the new (not pictured here) has the same tolerance. I too suspect it is a wear limit so the disks and plates aren't totaled when friction pads are toast.



Oh and I replaced the CCT without tie-wraps. Please don't judge me.

 

[Toxic Mark]

Yup, my balls are the same, too. Can't tell the difference by looking at them. I put in the new ball bearing just because. Thanks for the tip on using a magnetized Hex key to get the old ball out. Worked a charm. Haven't ridden the bike yet because the wise packers at cheapcycleparts.com folded my gasket in half to get it in the box. Waiting for a replacement.

 

[Combo]

Yup, my balls are the same, too. Can't tell the difference by looking at them. I put in the new ball bearing just because. Thanks for the tip on using a magnetized Hex key to get the old ball out. Worked a charm. Haven't ridden the bike yet because the wise packers at cheapcycleparts.com folded my gasket in half to get it in the box. Waiting for a replacement.

When the new one comes in you can use both folded gaskets to make one double gasket with two spots of permatex if they folded both at the correct spots.

That's crazy! ??? And I'm sorry ......but also funny too. ;D

 

[Toxic Mark]

I know! Fold it!? Cuz things shaped like tacos make great gaskets!

Too much 8) going on at the warehouse, I think.

 

[kvango]

Installation photos no longer posted
Ordered my basket -- (looks easy enough)

 

[rush2112]

Had the mod installed today thanks to Mrtwisty and its worth the money for sure. Thanks for the instructions.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[MrTwisty]

Make sure you turn the last clutch plate 1 opening, or 2 notches, not 1 notch like I did.



Amazingly, the S10 will actually move with only 1 clutch plate engaged.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[dcstrom]

Any of you guys that have pulled the clutch have a lot of miles on the bike? And measured up the plates? Did you decide it install new ones?

I have 82k and some down time in France over winter - and I can some part bought from the States... wondering if I should replace the plates. Doesn't make sense if there's not much wear on them, but won't have the chance to measure before I have to order. What do you reckon?

 

[Koinz]

Any of you guys that have pulled the clutch have a lot of miles on the bike? And measured up the plates? Did you decide it install new ones?

I have 82k and some down time in France over winter - and I can some part bought from the States... wondering if I should replace the plates. Doesn't make sense if there's not much wear on them, but won't have the chance to measure before I have to order. What do you reckon?

I re-used my plates. I measured them and they were within specs. I probably had around 27k when I replaced the basket.

 

[yz454]

If the plates are blue or warped there fine.

 

[dcstrom]

If the plates are blue or warped there fine.

I guess you're talking about the steel plates? And meant to say "if they AREN'T blue or warped..." Got it!

 

[rfulcher]

I replaced the clutch basket and cam chain tensioner last weekend. The bike is much quieter. It is also much smoother. Without realizing it I was running the RPMs over 3000, to avoid vibration. Over the last week I have been using lower RPMs and the vibration feels like a pulse instead of harsh vibration. In the past steady cruise would make my right hand numb. I avoided this with cruise control. Today I road 200 miles without cruise and without hand numbness. So noise and vibration are much better.

The bike also feels more powerful. Is this real or imagined? With TC off and in 1st gear the front wheel lifts with power easier and more smoothly. It will also lift the front wheel in 2nd with a throttle blip much easier than before. Could the clutch basket and/or cam chain tensioner improve performance? If so, how?

 

[Koinz]

I replaced the clutch basket and cam chain tensioner last weekend. The bike is much quieter. It is also much smoother. Without realizing it I was running the RPMs over 3000, to avoid vibration. Over the last week I have been using lower RPMs and the vibration feels like a pulse instead of harsh vibration. In the past steady cruise would make my right hand numb. I avoided this with cruise control. Today I road 200 miles without cruise and without hand numbness. So noise and vibration are much better.

The bike also feels more powerful. Is this real or imagined? With TC off and in 1st gear the front wheel lifts with power easier and more smoothly. It will also lift the front wheel in 2nd with a throttle blip much easier than before. Could the clutch basket and/or cam chain tensioner improve performance? If so, how?

With the smoother roll-on and ~ a pound more rotational mass probably makes its seem like there's more power, but I think it's just in the delivery and not necessarily in increased hp or torque. I'm very happy with the new basket as well.

 

[rush2112]

Once I removed the cover, I clean the old gasket off of the case and engine.
Remove the pressure plate screws evenly so you don't distort the plate (a little on each one until they're loose)
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disks. When I do it, I face them down and stack them so they are easily put together in the right order.
Pull the button from the end of the shaft.
and remove the big nut on the Hub. - I used an impact gun with a 1 3/16 socket. I didn't have a metric socket. Close enough ;D
Remove the Hub and the washer that sits behind it.

When I look at the picture with the cover off, and look at the position of the clutch plates before you removed them, it looks like the 1st plate is positioned like all the others. Later in the post of this thread it looks like some are saying that plate 1 should be 1 position off of the 2nd and other plates.

I ask this because we installed the 1st plate as everyone said and had no clutch. It seemed the plate was on that shelf in the slot and when you pulled in the clutch it wouldn't move the plate to touch the 2nd plate. The clutch lever was limp as a noodle.

We racked our brain, took it apart, then we looked at your 1st post that showed the plates on top of each other. We did this, put the bike together, and we had good clutch again. I have ridden the bike some 300 miles and it performs great.

Now, I was also reading another post in this thread from you where you mentioned that after the install it felt like the clutch was engaging quicker than before. I too feel it engages just off the handlebar, whereas before it seemed to be farther out. I may be wrong but when you said there was a difference in both your set ups then it made me start 2nd guessing, did we put this back together right, or wrong.

I don't want to cause any other issues, so I'm wondering if I need to take it to the dealer and let them take a look at the install of the plates to make sure I have done nothing that will cause major damage.