Clutch Basket Remove/Upgrade/Installation

[Koinz]

Ya sorry about the confusion, when I put the disks back together the first time I wasn't following the manual and I was called on it. That's a good thing so updated the thread but didnt change the pic. It should work either way so I'm not sure why your getting a limp clutch lever. I rode the bike 800 miles to Vermont and back to PA with no issues. Just to make sure though I pulled the cover and offset the first and second disc and made sure the first disk was sitting on the ledge, so it's back to a stock setup. As I said in the other thread, I like the feel and control better with the 1st disc not on the ledge, so I may go back to that setup sometime in the future. I'm not sure why Yamaha does this other than maybe some sort of built in wear indicator.

Have you noticed the clutch slip in any way?

 

[imcja]

You may need to bleed the hydraulics like I had to after the change. See my post in this thread.

 

[rush2112]

Ya sorry about the confusion, when I put the disks back together the first time I wasn't following the manual and I was called on it. That's a good thing so updated the thread but didnt change the pic. It should work either way so I'm not sure why your getting a limp clutch lever. I rode the bike 800 miles to Vermont and back to PA with no issues. Just to make sure though I pulled the cover and offset the first and second disc and made sure the first disk was sitting on the ledge, so it's back to a stock setup. As I said in the other thread, I like the feel and control better with the 1st disc not on the ledge, so I may go back to that setup sometime in the future. I'm not sure why Yamaha does this other than maybe some sort of built in wear indicator.

Have you noticed the clutch slip in any way?

See, you say it's back to stock but if you look at your pic before removing the plates it doesn't show number 1 being offset.

 

[rush2112]

You may need to bleed the hydraulics like I had to after the change. See my post in this thread.

We did, forever... And it still didn't make a difference. The only way I had a lever and a working clutch was for all plates to be in the 5th slot that doesn't have a ledge, then the 1st plate to be in the 4th slot that doesn't have a ledge.

 

[Thunderpig]

Thanks Koinz for the help with your description. Pretty easy job. When I took off the plates, I just wrote down where they were in relation to the basket mark and then put them back in the same position on the new basket. Don't know if that's right but seems to be working well. Vibrations and noise (vibrations transmitted to the hemet?) were definitely less. I only tried it for a short ride but no hand numbness, a one hour ride should tell me if it will stop the numbness.

 

[kvango]

Installed - using the 'official' method. I also bled the clutch - nasty stuff (2012 with 17k). Reused the gasket.

Clutch grabs faster - less friction zone. Not sure how much from a spongy clutch or new basket. Seems fine so far (8 miles!) ::008::



Photos are showing --

Installation photos no longer posted
Ordered my basket -- (looks easy enough)

 

[advnewbie]

I am glad someone mentioned that the clutch is grabbing faster as well. I just did my clutch basket upgrade yesterday and also had to bleed the clutch. I also noticed that the clutch engages much quicker than before. I thought that there may be something wrong as it felt much different than before. After a few miles the clutch feel got better as well as the smoothness of the ride. I am guessing there was a settling in period for the clutch plates to settle into their new home. Thanks to everyone for putting this info out there. It made the upgrade much easier to perform than just reading the shop manual. To anyone that has hesitated doing this upgrade, it was well worth it.

 

[dirtsailor]

so what is the text book benefits for performing this upgrade?

 

[Koinz]

so what is the text book benefits for performing this upgrade?

Replacing the basket?
Eliminates the vibration that many have experienced in the 12-13 models. The 14 basket is rubber damped and it's a direct fit on the 12-13's.

 

[dirtsailor]

one more question. Where do i purchase this? Im assuming from the dealership but i know that i will pay a premium for OEM parts from them at least ::002::

 

[HHH]

one more question. Where do i purchase this? Im assuming from the dealership but i know that i will pay a premium for OEM parts from them at least ::002::

I paid $250.00 IIRC, check my post a few pages back.
You have to add some pocket change for some tools because you also need a 30mm socket, EBC tool or similar, torque wrenches, gasket, nut...the last two might be reusable.

 

[HHH]

Never mind, I think it was in another thread, but here we go, I bought it from Procaliber.com, on the pic you can also see the part numbers.

P.S. You might be lucky to know someone in Florida that has the tools you need, even the gasket and nut new saved. (Just in case you need).

 

[Mzee]

Never mind, I think it was in another thread, but here we go, I bought it from Procaliber.com, on the pic you can also see the part numbers.

P.S. You might be lucky to know someone in Florida that has the tools you need, even the gasket and nut new saved. (Just in case you need).

Compared to other dealers Procaliber.com are expensive.

 

[HHH]

Compared to other dealers Procaliber.com are expensive.

Please, point us to the right direction then because it was the cheapest place when I made my order.

 

[HeliMark]

First off, can't say enough the difference the new basket has made on my '13. I was not sure how long I would keep this bike as I use it to commute also, and in traffic, I find that I am usually around the 3K RPM range most of the time. My right hand goes numb most days, but now that has been "fixed".

But I had an interesting issue when I changed the basket. After putting together, the clutch was slipping and not completely disengaging. Could not figure out what the problem was and ended up having to take it to a great bike shop (Zeal Racing). They found out the bearing on the pressure plate had backed out about 1 1/2mm. They heated it up, took it off, checked everything and put it back to the correct position. Now everything is working like it is suppose to. One possibility is that when I took it apart, it was still hot and the bearing moved then. Or, possibly it came from the factory that way as sometimes shifting even from 3 to 2 to 1 would be like going through two gears for each one (know and lubed pivot bolt).

Mark

 

[twinrider]

Has anyone who already had the ECUnleashed Gen II flash done the clutch basket upgrade?

I'm wondering because the flash seemed to really smooth out the motor, eliminating the hand-numbing vibrations. Am wondering whether changing the basket would make it even smoother....

 

[~TABASCO~]

Has anyone who already had the ECUnleashed Gen II flash done the clutch basket upgrade?

I'm wondering because the flash seemed to really smooth out the motor, eliminating the hand-numbing vibrations. Am wondering whether changing the basket would make it even smoother....

yes-yes-yes & yes..

 

[jmoore]

absolutely!

 

[rotortech71]

Has anyone who already had the ECUnleashed Gen II flash done the clutch basket upgrade?

I'm wondering because the flash seemed to really smooth out the motor, eliminating the hand-numbing vibrations. Am wondering whether changing the basket would make it even smoother....

Yes....

and Absofrickenlutely!

 

[Koinz]

Has anyone who already had the ECUnleashed Gen II flash done the clutch basket upgrade?

I'm wondering because the flash seemed to really smooth out the motor, eliminating the hand-numbing vibrations. Am wondering whether changing the basket would make it even smoother....

What vibration ???

I have avc's flash, but didnt really have vibrations before, except for the clutch rattling. Maybe I'm less sensitive to it than others.