Clutch Basket Remove/Upgrade/Installation

[Don in Lodi]

Looks like the CCT's are on backorder now.

At full price too! )

 

[AlsoRan]

I've not read of anyone posting about a few of the other parts when replacing the new basket. Has anyone else ordered or installed the new bearing {93511-32027-00} or seal {93210-06632-00} at the end of the push rod. The bearing is a 'new' part number that supersedes the 12-13, but I don't know if there is any real difference?

I ordered both but only as a precaution in-case I lost the bearing or had any problems with the o-ring but I did not change them. I didn't measure the old bearing to compare (should have), but I just checked the NEW bearing is .3435 diameter. If you measure the old one and it's different let us know but I would be surprised. Don't think an o-ring or .002 in diameter difference will make a big difference in functionality.

Clutch feel is the same as with the original basket.

 

[Sup-Ten]

Mine arrived from Stadium Friday. Installed this am and went for short test. Much smoother, a noticeable difference. Mine never really bothered me but as I'm not one to pass on a chance at a mod I figured I'd give it a try. Very happy I did. Honest
Y, I'd recommend it even at the revised price.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Sckill]

Thanks for the write up - just installed mine today and there's a big decrease in vibes across all rpms.

 

[Koinz]

I've not read of anyone posting about a few of the other parts when replacing the new basket. Has anyone else ordered or installed the new bearing {93511-32027-00} or seal {93210-06632-00} at the end of the push rod. The bearing is a 'new' part number that supersedes the 12-13, but I don't know if there is any real difference?

I did not replace the bearing and also don't know if there's any difference. If anyone does purchase it, please measure old and new for comparison sake.
My bearing stayed on the shaft the whole time during the clutch upgrade procedure.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Jeff ordered those bits, he's doing the basket today, maybe he'll chime in.

 

[Koinz]

Thanks, I just did mine today. One thing I might add though:
Align tab of last fiber disc to these marks.


In reply # 5 in this picture the last fiber disc is not installed correctly.


Probably makes little if any difference, but if anyone is doing this and all your fiber plates are installed with the tabs the same orientation, you are doing it wrong on the last disc. Last disc should be offset from the rest.

Thanks Ron, this was brought to my attention, so I edited the post to include Karsons MSG that indicates the alignment issue. Not sure why it's required though. It's not very clear in the manual. I didn't get a chance to take the cover off yet, but I didn't experience any issues riding to Vermont and back from pa.

 

[BWC]

Order placed for 2 bikes with Stadium Yamaha on June 16. 2BS 2014 clutch baskets, and as I had done my CCT upgrade this spring, 1 - 2BS 2014 cam chain tensioner and a few extras for some future maintenance.
The 9500 km ride to Arkansas and return in Oct. should be a good test ride for the new clutch baskets. ::26::

 

[Combo]

Thanks, I just did mine today. One thing I might add though:
Align tab of last fiber disc to these marks.


In reply # 5 in this picture the last fiber disc is not installed correctly.


Probably makes little if any difference, but if anyone is doing this and all your fiber plates are installed with the tabs the same orientation, you are doing it wrong on the last disc. Last disc should be offset from the rest.

I see it Ron but don't understand it. In that position it leaves a back stop ? for the outboard disk. ???
When I do mine it will go back the way it came off and in this position if that's the way mine is and I have no doubt it is....just don't understand why. ??? ??? ???

 

[Don in Lodi]

Yep, that's the way the last one goes in, on that shelf. Although!... the factory doesn't seem to worry about lining up those tabs with anything at all, not even with themselves.

 

[Karson]

Don't mean to steal the show at all, but here's what Koinz linked to (I think). I took a sharpie and marked where the tab on friction plate 1 aligned with the orientation mark to make it easy if it dropped out somehow

5) More info on removing clutch pressure plate and how to orient yourself with friction plate 1 & 2. Service manual makes it clear as mud if it happens. Just FYI.

6) If you need to reinstall the plates. Again, more pics/documentation in the event your friction plates grow legs Probably over dramatizing at this point, but oh well...skip to 7 if you're fine ::008::

 

[Koinz]

I have a feeling it's a built in wear indicator. Once the disks wear to a certain point the clutch will slip because the first disc can't apply any additional pressure from the pressure plate because the first plate has reached its travel point. If it's not on the ledge it will continue to wear into the fiber material and possible spread that stuff through the engine.

I did reposition my disc as Karson indicated in his pic, but I didn't do it until I put close to a thousand miles because of a trip to Vermont.
The discs looked perfectly fine and all well within spec. Sorry I missed that originally and glad you guys corrected my installation instructions.

 

[Don in Lodi]

And to make things even more clear; there are two dimples, index marks, on the basket, 180 from each other. So, which is dimple 'a'?

 

[scott123007]

And to make things even more clear; there are two dimples, index marks, on the basket, 180 from each other. So, which is dimple 'a'?

That part doesn't matter. Both of those dimples are "one click" offset so it makes no difference which you use.

 

[Combo]

This position thing of the outboard disk makes me think when you work the clutch hard (get it hot and expands) is why a few guys have smoked all of them. I am going to retract my statement of going back the way it was. I have never seen this on a motorcycle in my life and I don't think I want to start now.
I don't know about you guys but I have ran my bike hard at times and felt the clutch slip when trying to pull the front tire up at different speeds with engine hot or 5 min out of the garage and I think after seeing the way this clutch is positioned may be some of the problem?
It has made me want to go to a Barnett or a more positive hit when released. To me something has not been right as far as positive clutch engagement on this bike as far as I have had it. It has always felt weak and slid a little. But that may be just me :question:

 

[Koinz]

This position thing of the outboard disk makes me think when you work the clutch hard (get it hot and expands) is why a few guys have smoked all of them. I am going to retract my statement of going back the way it was. I have never seen this on a motorcycle in my life and I don't think I want to start now.
I don't know about you guys but I have ran my bike hard at times and felt the clutch slip when trying to pull the front tire up at different speeds with engine hot or 5 min out of the garage and I think after seeing the way this clutch is positioned may be some of the problem?
It has made me want to go to a Barnett or a more positive hit when released. To me something has not been right as far as positive clutch engagement on this bike as far as I have had it. It has always felt weak and slid a little. But that may be just me :question:

Funny you mention that. I have to agree. When my discs were not aligned per the manual, clutch engagement seemed smoother and more positive. It would engage earlier with more "feel" to it. With the discs aligned correctly, my clutch engages further out and more abrupt with a smaller engagement zone if that makes sense.
Right now, the discs are aligned per the manual, but I may go back to the wrong way of doing it. YMMV.

 

[Mzee]

Funny you mention that. I have to agree. When my discs were not aligned per the manual, clutch engagement seemed smoother and more positive. It would engage earlier with more "feel" to it. With the discs aligned correctly, my clutch engages further out and more abrupt with a smaller engagement zone if that makes sense.
Right now, the discs are aligned per the manual, but I may go back to the wrong way of doing it. YMMV.

Koinz, which is the wrong way?

 

[OldRider]

This position thing of the outboard disk makes me think when you work the clutch hard (get it hot and expands) is why a few guys have smoked all of them. I am going to retract my statement of going back the way it was. I have never seen this on a motorcycle in my life and I don't think I want to start now.
I don't know about you guys but I have ran my bike hard at times and felt the clutch slip when trying to pull the front tire up at different speeds with engine hot or 5 min out of the garage and I think after seeing the way this clutch is positioned may be some of the problem?
It has made me want to go to a Barnett or a more positive hit when released. To me something has not been right as far as positive clutch engagement on this bike as far as I have had it. It has always felt weak and slid a little. But that may be just me :question:

I felt the same way about the way the clutch released. It never did feel good.

I put in the Barnett pressure plate and it made a world of difference. The clutch engages like it should and taking off in first gear is super smooth.

 

[Koinz]

Koinz, which is the wrong way?

The Wrong way is not positioning the first disc on a landing that limits how it engages. Do this at your own risk. I don't fully understand why Yamaha does this. Like I mentioned in a previous post, they may have done it as a wear indicator to check your disc's if your clutch begins to slip. I would always say "follow the instructions in the manual"

Disclaimer
I assume no responsibility for any damage that might occur if you choose to do this.

 

[~TABASCO~]

I've not replaced my basket and gone down this road yet..... But could this have anything to do with the new ball 'bearing' that happens to be a new part number.. Could this be a different 'OD' that then translates into a different spec (length) on the throw out bearing ? People are beginning to talk about this topic about the plate, but not many people have brought up the new ball and it "possibly" being a different size per a new specific part number.........

Just a thought... I've not gotten into it and used a micrometer on the parts....