You look good to me. Normal.Hmm...everything snugged up well, all spacers in place...how would this even be adjusted?
I have the factory service manual and it doesnt call this out...can you elaborate?
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You look good to me. Normal.Hmm...everything snugged up well, all spacers in place...how would this even be adjusted?
I have the factory service manual and it doesnt call this out...can you elaborate?
Did you do the service yourself? Definitely have the correct amount of oil in? The oil light is oil level low rather than oil pressure warning so all is good. The sight glass is really difficult to use.Just after 54k mile service out for a quick ride earlier I had the oil pressure light come on, I pulled over and the level is fine.
What do you reckon, sensor? engine going to catch fire and explode? ignore and carry on?
Am I missing something? Sounds good. Temp gets high, fan come on, and temp drops. Pressure rises when throttle "bliped", and goes back down. I don't know what the pressure should read, so I don't know if that's correct.If you put an aftermarket “oil pressure warning light” ..... check everything before continuing
It is my bike and I will correct it this weekend.Mfp you may want to check your buddies bike...
I'm 5'10" and use the oem tall version and out of many windshields I have...this one is the best.Have you tried the screen without the extension? How do you like it? The stocker is just a bit to short for me at 5'10".
You need to leave it a couple of minutes before checking, more oil will drain into the dry sump and it will show low. I wonder if the dealer put in the correct amount of oil for an oil as indicated for not changing the filter but also replaced the filter?Thanks for the replies, I thought it was a pressure sensor, must be forgetting things!
After a run home on a hot day post service (at a dealer) it had sat for a few days, I let it warm up for a few mins before heading off - it came on while on some 1/2 way twisty roads a couple of minutes away from home.
Level is bang on the center of the glass while on center stand immediately after shutting off.
It's due some new tyres soon so I'll let the dealer know and see what they suggest. Obvious concern is false positive reading.
I would not use moly paste on the swingarm or linkage bearings. Regular wheel bearing /chassis grease is lithium soap base and the proper product. Unfortunately that stuff is extremely difficult to remove.Did the rear swing arm lubing. Also changed the shaft drive oil while it was off doing the swing arm. Then changed engine oil.
I didn't do a complete job...the one bolt that the headers need to come off; I didn't do. Everything else seemed well lubed. I guess I'm lucky in that so far my dealership did a good job assembling my bike. I used Honda Moly paste to lube the needle bearings in the swing arm and shock bolts. Any issues using this? When looking at the shop manual to get torque specs. I notice it called to use "Lithium Soap Grease." Of course I lube with Moly paste the splines on the shaft.
Where’d you source the plugs from?
Good news is...I did some more research and the moly paste should work great. Moly paste is paste because of the higher moly content but it still lubricates and protects and works especially good on controlling corrosion and good in low and high temperatures and pressures. Didn't know but "soap" is the same as grease. I'll see how the moly paste works for a year, then reevaluate.I would not use moly paste on the swingarm or linkage bearings. Regular wheel bearing /chassis grease is lithium soap base and the proper product. Unfortunately that stuff is extremely difficult to remove.
I just spend about 2 hours on my throttle..
I discovered yesterday that it did not go back to idle, when I let it go.
I was sure it was the wire to heatet grib, so spending time to route wire better (it was correct from start), but no matter what I did, not any better
It turned out that it was the cables that needed lubrication.
But still, no matter what I do, when handlebar completely left, the cable will go to tight due to the routing.
I then wondered if there was a better routing, but before I got that started I figured that Yamaha already had the best routing