What you did to your Tenere today??!!

sjh

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Jan 10, 2016
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midlands uk
Thanks for the replies, I thought it was a pressure sensor, must be forgetting things!

After a run home on a hot day post service (at a dealer) it had sat for a few days, I let it warm up for a few mins before heading off - it came on while on some 1/2 way twisty roads a couple of minutes away from home.

Level is bang on the center of the glass while on center stand immediately after shutting off.

It's due some new tyres soon so I'll let the dealer know and see what they suggest. Obvious concern is false positive reading.
 

Sierra1

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Nov 7, 2016
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If you put an aftermarket “oil pressure warning light” ..... check everything before continuing
Am I missing something? Sounds good. Temp gets high, fan come on, and temp drops. Pressure rises when throttle "bliped", and goes back down. I don't know what the pressure should read, so I don't know if that's correct.

sjh, I have to put more than what's "supposed" to be in there. . . . just to get the oil light to stay off. It is disconcerting when you've added the "correct" amount, you take off, the oil light come on. . . . and won't go off. I knew a guy that used the oil light in his car as an indicator to add oil. Yeah, his motor didn't like that.
 
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Xclimation

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Aug 17, 2016
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Ft. Worth, Texas
Did the rear swing arm lubing. Also changed the shaft drive oil while it was off doing the swing arm. Then changed engine oil.
I didn't do a complete job...the one bolt that the headers need to come off; I didn't do. Everything else seemed well lubed. I guess I'm lucky in that so far my dealership did a good job assembling my bike. I used Honda Moly paste to lube the needle bearings in the swing arm and shock bolts. Any issues using this? When looking at the shop manual to get torque specs. I notice it called to use "Lithium Soap Grease." Of course I lube with Moly paste the splines on the shaft. Everything went well except for 2 minor fun times.....that 27mm nut on the axle that pivots the swing arm on the frame.....dealership had it torque to well over 200 ft./lbs.....Had to use breaker bar plus cheater pipe to get it to start loosening! I know it was over 200 ft./lbs. because at one point I used my big boy torque wrench to try and get it to loosen and it clicked at the max which is 200 ft./lbs. When I reinstalled, I torqued it to 90 ft./lbs. as the shop manual says.
Something interesting when changing the final drive fluid with the shaft assembly off the bike.....I held it drain hole side down to get as much out as possible and held the assembly in different positions. Not that much more fluid came out than if one did it normally while on the kick stand.
The other minor fun time...when reinstalling the wheel...for some reason it took me longer than normal to get the splines on the wheel to mate up with the shaft side and the darn cush rubbers came out...
Another question...making sure I did this right....I tightened the 4 acorn type nuts where the shaft assembly meets the swing arm AFTER I had everything torque to spec. on the rear wheel..Is that correct? I remember reading that on another thread and it is not in the manual that I could find?
Now tomorrow change out fork oil, bushings and dust seals then do the neck bearing...and hopefully I can get this done on my 2011 Triumph Speedmaster on the same day....
 

yoyo

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Jan 30, 2016
Messages
697
Location
Swansea UK
Thanks for the replies, I thought it was a pressure sensor, must be forgetting things!

After a run home on a hot day post service (at a dealer) it had sat for a few days, I let it warm up for a few mins before heading off - it came on while on some 1/2 way twisty roads a couple of minutes away from home.

Level is bang on the center of the glass while on center stand immediately after shutting off.

It's due some new tyres soon so I'll let the dealer know and see what they suggest. Obvious concern is false positive reading.
You need to leave it a couple of minutes before checking, more oil will drain into the dry sump and it will show low. I wonder if the dealer put in the correct amount of oil for an oil as indicated for not changing the filter but also replaced the filter?

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
 

jrusell

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Aug 23, 2017
Messages
362
Location
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
Did the rear swing arm lubing. Also changed the shaft drive oil while it was off doing the swing arm. Then changed engine oil.
I didn't do a complete job...the one bolt that the headers need to come off; I didn't do. Everything else seemed well lubed. I guess I'm lucky in that so far my dealership did a good job assembling my bike. I used Honda Moly paste to lube the needle bearings in the swing arm and shock bolts. Any issues using this? When looking at the shop manual to get torque specs. I notice it called to use "Lithium Soap Grease." Of course I lube with Moly paste the splines on the shaft.
I would not use moly paste on the swingarm or linkage bearings. Regular wheel bearing /chassis grease is lithium soap base and the proper product. Unfortunately that stuff is extremely difficult to remove.
 

Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
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Jul 1, 2017
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1,981
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Denmark
I just spend about 2 hours on my throttle..
I discovered yesterday that it did not go back to idle, when I let it go.
I was sure it was the wire to heatet grib, so spending time to route wire better (it was correct from start), but no matter what I did, not any better o_O

It turned out that it was the cables that needed lubrication:).

But still, no matter what I do, when handlebar completely left, the cable will go to tight due to the routing.
I then wondered if there was a better routing, but before I got that started I figured that Yamaha already had the best routing:cool:
 

Xclimation

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Aug 17, 2016
Messages
561
Location
Ft. Worth, Texas
I would not use moly paste on the swingarm or linkage bearings. Regular wheel bearing /chassis grease is lithium soap base and the proper product. Unfortunately that stuff is extremely difficult to remove.
Good news is...I did some more research and the moly paste should work great. Moly paste is paste because of the higher moly content but it still lubricates and protects and works especially good on controlling corrosion and good in low and high temperatures and pressures. Didn't know but "soap" is the same as grease. I'll see how the moly paste works for a year, then reevaluate.
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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I just spend about 2 hours on my throttle..
I discovered yesterday that it did not go back to idle, when I let it go.
I was sure it was the wire to heatet grib, so spending time to route wire better (it was correct from start), but no matter what I did, not any better o_O

It turned out that it was the cables that needed lubrication:).

But still, no matter what I do, when handlebar completely left, the cable will go to tight due to the routing.
I then wondered if there was a better routing, but before I got that started I figured that Yamaha already had the best routing:cool:

Make sure your throttle grip is not pushed over and pinching. This will cause the throttle to sometimes stick, and has nothing to do with the cables.. Just an idea.....
 

sjh

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Jan 10, 2016
Messages
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Location
midlands uk
Word from the dealer is that the S10 is discontinued and replacement in that segment expected Q1 2022,

No idea what engine it's going to be based on as nothing in their current lineup suits, a bigger triple that can wear sports tourning & adv clothes is my bet ... hopefully it'll keep a shaft drive.
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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Where’d you source the plugs from?


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Japan Spark Plugs DOT com



NOTE : There are other post about "spark plugs" on this forum. But I will remind everyone that you should buy plugs like this from someone reputable like Japansparkplugs.com. I would suggest NOT buying them from Ebay. They are much cheeper and probably FAKE. FYI ! Don't be suckered in about getting something for nothing.
 
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