Ha ha, you mean WD 40 is "finger lickin good" ??A little bit of Vienerslickem never hurts in tight spots.
Additionally, wienerslidder is a slightly more efficient product.Ha ha, you mean WD 40 is "finger lickin good" ??
SHUMBA
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We must have the same service plan hahaI installed/balanced a new set of Bridgestone Battlewings + removed the driveshaft/pumpkin to check the condition. Everything was rust free and clean. I then disassembled all of the shock/suspension bolts/sleeves, cleaned everything up, greased as required, and re-assembled. The only corrosion was on the lower shock bolt. It was cleaned up, greased, and installed. The other parts were very clean with my bike having 37,600 miles on it.
I removed the fork legs and drained them with out disassembling them......350 cc of old fork fluid came out and I re-filled with 350 cc of BelRay 5w fork oil. The steering stem was not greased as I had previously removed the stems on my previously owned '12 and '13 S10s....both has adequate lube when checked. The stem of my current '15 feels snug and smooth = no removal.
Put everything back together and re-checked all of my work! I should be good to go until the next valve clearance check at 55,000 miles.
My S10 is used as a street bike by me with minimal gravel road use.
Installing a Manual CCT is easy. You can either make the spacer as you say, or use a strong tie wrap around the cam chain on one side of the drive sprocket and then around the guide that presses against the cam chain on the other side. Do it as high as you can, to get the best leverage. The reason the MCCT is easy is because you can install it and adjust it while everything is being held together with the tie wrap. Unfortunately, with an OEM tensioner, it is a crap shoot, because you have to release the tie wrap in order to smack the guide to release the tensioner. That is when the cam chain might jump a couple of teeth depending on the position of the cam when the tie wrap is released.Took the Clutch cover off to address the possible long dowel issue others have had. I noticed a slight weep of oil last summer at the lower dowel position. Never bad, just annoying. Bolts were checked at the time and were fine.
Dowel measured 20mm long total, 9mm extending out of cover. Measured the hole in the case and it was 9mm as well.
Took 1mm off the overall length and it should be fine now.
Had a look at the cam chain and guides as well. I have a manual tensioner sitting on the bench and need to get off my butt and put it in soon. Was hoping to make a spacer to hold the guide and chain nice and tight when swapping. Really don't want to strip it down to zip tie the cams and chain, but might be necessary just to be safe.
What is the "long dowel issue" and how does it present itself? Is it a Gen 1 issue or on all S10s possible?Took the Clutch cover off to address the possible long dowel issue others have had.
I did some research on this and trying to decipher Yammy paint codes is a bit convalutedFinally back together after my cow run in 4 or 5 weeks ago.
Except for 1 sticker, the super tenere sticker on the top right piece of bodywork that i ordered was black/silver/gold instead of black/red/white. Any idea what PN i need?
Plus wife approved of seat concepts seats. Passenger seat is done, rider seat tomorrow. Can't believe I lived with the stock seat slope for 30k miles.
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Thanks, selected color code for partzilla but gotI did some research on this and trying to decipher Yammy paint codes is a bit convaluted
but I think these are indeed the correct part numbers below.
It seems the correct color code for a US spec '13 S10 in Pearl White is: BWC1 (Bluish White Cocktail).
the other available color for a US spec '13 was Matt Gray: MNM3 (Matt Gray Metallic).
The "Super Tenere" decal you described in black/silver/gold is for the Matte Gray version.
The Matt Gray S10s did not have the Yamaha Speed Block decals on the cowls below the "Super Tenere" decal.
I believe the correct "Super Tenere" sticker for you would be:
Yamaha Part #
23P-28391-30-00 GRAPHIC 1 UR FOR BWC1 (left side upper cowl)
23P-28392-30-00 GRAPHIC 2 UR FOR BWC1 (right side upper cowl)
BTW, I also have a '13 in Pearl White!
Thanks, selected color code for partzilla but got
23P-28392-40-00 instead.
However the red checkers were right. Not enough $$ to be super upset but just a bit frustrating
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I believe @MFP has the right part numbers! Had looked for those before and never found them. On partzilla like @navynuke said the 40-00 is the wrong one for our white bikes.Yamaha Part #
23P-28391-30-00 GRAPHIC 1 UR FOR BWC1 (left side upper cowl)
23P-28392-30-00 GRAPHIC 2 UR FOR BWC1 (right side upper cowl)
BTW, I also have a '13 in Pearl White!
Some owners have experienced a small oil leak at the bottom of the clutch cover. There is a locating dowel at the top and bottom of the cover to keep it centered properly when installed. You can see these in my pics.What is the "long dowel issue" and how does it present itself? Is it a Gen 1 issue or on all S10s possible?