What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[Don in Lodi]

On an MC tire I'm always concerned about the amount of belt damage, small contact patch and all that. If it was a nail, or even a small screw I'd run it out. This was some sort of sideways cut. I'll know more when I pull it off, maybe the offending bit will be inside the tire, at least I'll see how big the cut is. Maybe save it for a spare.

 

[EricV]

On an MC tire I'm always concerned about the amount of belt damage, small contact patch and all that. If it was a nail, or even a small screw I'd run it out. This was some sort of sideways cut. I'll know more when I pull it off, maybe the offending bit will be inside the tire, at least I'll see how big the cut is. Maybe save it for a spare.

Too much concern. ;D Did you crash this time when you got a flat? Well then, you probably won't crash next time either. Hardly anyone fails to notice a flat and modern tires don't just come off the rims and go flying. It's just a puncture/small cut. Highly unlikely that you ride so darn hard that you can stress the tire into being damaged further after the repair, just by riding it.

Yes, if it's side wall damage. Yes, if you already have another puncture in the same 1/4 of the tire. Toss it then. No for just about everything else. Fix it and use it up. The Oregon State motor officer I spoke to a while back said that dept policy was to fix a flat until there were either four other repairs in the tire, more than on in the same 1/4 of the tire or side wall damage. A CHP motor officer told me essentially that he didn't know, he just rides the bike. Utah motor officer I spoke to last week at the DMV didn't even know what tires were on the bike, just round, black and with tread... ???

 

[mrpincher]

How does the friction zone with the Barnett plate kit feel?

One of my biggest complaints with this bike is the extremely short friction zone the clutch has. I have heard great things about how the Barnett Kevlar plates really increase and length and feel of the friction zone. I would really like to do that to my S-10 one day.

Hello - The old Yam clutch would grab at take off from a standstill, then I'd have to relax on the throttle a bit to keep moving...given my apparent lack of technique. This made for a awkward feeling take off and not smooth. This new basket and Barnett arrangement has none of that. No technique required - even I can ride now. ::012:: Smooth as butter with no catchy spots. This clutch loves to shift up through the gears with no noise and no vibrations. It wasn't cheap - it was definitely worth it, now that I've done it.

Have 48,000 miles on that old clutch. I reused everything except the small rubber o-ring and the crush nut on the shaft. I didn't know how bad I would mash on it to get the old nut off, so I purchased a new. The inner most Yamaha plate was pretty dark when I took it off. Compared to the others, it looked like it had been pretty hot at some point. If there's anything I can help with -let me know. Mike

 

[sjh]

Looks good, where did you have it done? Tony Archer?

Seems ok so far

http://www.motorbike-seats.co.uk/ < that guy

 

[yoyo]

Seems ok so far

http://www.motorbike-seats.co.uk/ < that guy

Cheers!

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[taskmaster86]

Hello - The old Yam clutch would grab at take off from a standstill, then I'd have to relax on the throttle a bit to keep moving...given my apparent lack of technique. This made for a awkward feeling take off and not smooth. This new basket and Barnett arrangement has none of that. No technique required - even I can ride now. ::012:: Smooth as butter with no catchy spots. This clutch loves to shift up through the gears with no noise and no vibrations. It wasn't cheap - it was definitely worth it, now that I've done it.

Have 48,000 miles on that old clutch. I reused everything except the small rubber o-ring and the crush nut on the shaft. I didn't know how bad I would mash on it to get the old nut off, so I purchased a new. The inner most Yamaha plate was pretty dark when I took it off. Compared to the others, it looked like it had been pretty hot at some point. If there's anything I can help with -let me know. Mike

Sweet, Thanks for the follow up!

 

[mrpincher]

Sweet is what I said out loud when I went for the first ride.

Another observation - my bike was getting hard, HARD to push in gear with the clutch lever pulled in(not running). For comparison - I can physically push a 1 ton pallet of paper with a pallet jack with some effort - the bike felt harder than that to push. Also, when the bike was running, in neutral, on the center stand, the back tire would spin; slowly. Both of those characteristics are gone. I presume the old clutch was sticky.

edit: the bike starts easier also. I can tell after 5 years of starting this bike that it is cranking over faster.

 

[Dogdaze]

Sweet is what I said out loud when I went for the first ride.

Another observation - my bike was getting hard, HARD to push in gear with the clutch lever pulled in(not running). For comparison - I can physically push a 1 ton pallet of paper with a pallet jack with some effort - the bike felt harder than that to push. Also, when the bike was running, in neutral, on the center stand, the back tire would spin; slowly. Both of those characteristics are gone. I presume the old clutch was sticky.

What you described there is known as clutch drap, my first (used) S10 ran like that, creeped in traffic if I blipped the throttle,changed to 2014 basket, plates and steels, still the same. Could not solve it, finally dumped and bought a new 2016

 

[Kabish]

Nothing overly exciting but installed some Altrider Crash bars and a new Oxford Quick release tank bag. Its only the 4L one and its pretty tight up on the bars, dunno how you all put on these baller 20L bags lol

Also I wanted to shoot the person who wrote the instructions/video for the crash bars. "Just unscrew the two 17mm bolts", holly balls those bolts were in there rock solid.... I was bound an determined to get them off... Who says you can only use a shovel for one type of job??

Also, anyone else have the Oxford quick release adapter for the S10? It only came with 4 screws, inventory says 4 screws, but the picture shows 5 and there are 5 on the bike so I'm missing a screw.

https://imgur.com/a/w8qvB

 

[Don in Lodi]

Those tank bags sure do ride high and forward. The OEM and the City Bags ride back a bit more and they tuck into the tank more.

 

[Squibb]

Yesterday afternoon, went to Sywell aerodrome, near Northampton UK.

Several classic aircraft around, including 3 Spitfires (two 2-seaters for joy rides), a Hawker Fury & a DH Tiger Moth. Mental note to look again on the next sunny Sunday, as the old war birds based here fly in/out from Airshows.

 

[holligl]

Bled the rear brakes after replacing the pads yesterday. Pulled the front wheel to find the slow leak that's been loosing 1-2 lbs per day after about 2k miles on Mitas E-07 Dakars. Easy to spot the bead leak under water in a utility sink. Broke the beads, cleaned, lubed and re-seated. Stilled ended up with a super slow leak on the other side in another location. Second time it finally seated perfectly. Went for a quick test ride: Brakes ::008::, Tires ::008::, Cyclops LED headlights ::008::

 

[Super08]

Did a few things today.
First I made a custom mount for my Techmount cell phone mount. It only comes with adapters to fit down to 7/8". So I ordered a bushing 1/2" id x 1" od x 1" long. I split in in half with a Dremel using a large cutoff wheel. Then filed it smooth and painted it with satin black rust paint. Then I was able to mount it to the 1/2" bar above the speedo using the 1" collar that comes with the Techmount.
I also mounted my Helibars riser. I found I didn't have to use the 6" brake line extension that comes with the kit though. Just using the method that Rox uses I found I had more than enough slack on the brake line. Sitting on the bike the new bar position feels perfect, I plan on going for a nice ride tomorrow to check it out.
I previously had put a Puig touring windshield on it as well as some Yamaha air deflectors and the Yamaha aluminum rock guard. I have no plans for any off road, the worst mine will ever see will be the odd gravel road. I just didn't like the oil pan exposed to any rocks that may fly up off the front tire.
Next up is the Puig engine guards that are on the way. I chose them not so much for protection (although they will help), but they look to be in the best position for adding a small set of highway pegs for long trips.

 

[WJBertrand]

Changed oil and filter then disassembled and lubed shifter pivot/linkage.


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[loosetravlr]

Rode from Williams to Payson(AZ) and back. Getting a little chilly at 7000 ft elevation for a summer JACKET. Trees are changing,and air is CLEAN!!

 

[bob dirt]

Rode from Williams to Payson(AZ) and back. Getting a little chilly at 7000 ft elevation for a summer JACKET. Trees are changing,and air is CLEAN!!

It was 59* in the valley this morning. Have you ridden south on perkinsville road to Jerome for lunch?

 

[taskmaster86]

Re-balanced the throttle bodies with the painted screw adjusted at 1/4 out instead of 3/4 turn out. It has been about 4,000 miles since I had done it anyways and the harmonizer was showing that the bodies were off balance by about 15 m/bar. Turning the painted screw back to 1/4 out from completely tight seemed to make the idle and lower rpm smoother, can't tell a difference on the top end though.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Re-balanced the throttle bodies with the painted screw adjusted at 1/4 out instead of 3/4 turn out. It has been about 4,000 miles since I had done it anyways and the harmonizer was showing that the bodies were off balance by about 15 m/bar. Turning the painted screw back to 1/4 out from completely tight seemed to make the idle and lower rpm smoother, can't tell a difference on the top end though.

The Gen1 bikes were about 3/4 turn from seated. You're finding what other Gen2 owners have said (including me) that for the Gen2 bikes, 1/4 to 3/8 turn is about right.


This doesn't affect higher revs but sure makes a difference at idle and when initially coming from a stop.

 

[taskmaster86]

The Gen1 bikes were about 3/4 turn from seated. You're finding what other Gen2 owners have said (including me) that for the Gen2 bikes, 1/4 to 3/8 turn is about right.


This doesn't affect higher revs but sure makes a difference at idle and when initially coming from a stop.

Yeah, I am glad it worked. I have my ECU flashed so I was a little worried that might affect something with the positioning of the painted screw but it didn't seem to.

With the painted screw 3/4 turn out, the vacuum cap on the right side TB was always wet with gas; which caused it to crack and rot. I am hoping having the painted screw 1/4 turn out prevents that problem. I was having to replace the vacuum cap every 6 months before because it was cracking, I think due to the ethanol gas soaking inside of it.

For anyone else that is wondering the cap is a standard 1/8" ID vacuum cap. The hose on the left side TB is 1/8" vacuum or fuel hose. I went with 1/8" Tygon fuel hose and it fits great. Tygon should be much more resistant to gas than regular hose. I wish someone made tygon vacuum caps though.

 

[Davesax36]

Did the repairs to the carbon hanger and end cap on my new-to-me leo Vince pipe. Got it installed and went for a ride. Lots of decel popping, but I'll probably just put a little bead of copper exhaust gasket in there to settle that down. Not loud at all, looks and sounds nice.

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