What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[Don in Lodi]

Installed new rear pads. The outer bad was done but the inner one had more meat. Is this normal? Pins seemed well lubed but re-lubed them just the same. The metal clips that receive the ears on the brake packing pad were totally dry and showing a little rust. Maybe the inside pad was hanging up a bit or the outside one wasn't retracting completely? I went ahead and applied a film of brake grease to these. The bike is at around 30,500 miles so I guess this isn't too bad for pad life?


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Your first rear set? Consider my 10-12,000 per set...

 

[WJBertrand]

Your first rear set? Consider my 10-12,000 per set...

First replacement set, yeah. I feel I use the rear brake often, but maybe not very hard. Hard to shake the track training I got at MCN, so front brakes get more use, knowing the linking will also apply the rears.


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[Grumpy]

I have just done my rear pads @ 21300m. The piston side was still leagle, but had more wear than the other one. So I dropped in a new set (I wish all callipers where this easy to deal with) I have kept the old set so If the same uneaven wear occurs with the new set I can use the two thickest pads together, or carry as spares.

 

[Topcop45]

Rode the p**s out of it!!!

 

[Defekticon]

Put the cyclops LED bulbs in before the romney ride and saw some condensation inside the headlights. Any ideas on how to keep these sealed up and prevent moisture from entering the headlight?

 

[Squibb]

Put the cyclops LED bulbs in before the romney ride and saw some condensation inside the headlights. Any ideas on how to keep these sealed up and prevent moisture from entering the headlight?

It's probably just the warm/moist air that got into the light unit when you were fitting the LEDs. If it is just a light haze, I would just leave it to clear naturally.
If it is excessive, then the normal solution is to get the bike into a dry, ambient environment, drop out the bulbs & get in there with a hair dryer. Don't go too hot, clear the misting thoroughly & then, progressively switch down the heat on the dryer until you are back to ambient & everything has cooled down. Then refit the LEDs & all should be well .................... KEN

 

[Defekticon]

It's probably just the warm/moist air that got into the light unit when you were fitting the LEDs. If it is just a light haze, I would just leave it to clear naturally.
If it is excessive, then the normal solution is to get the bike into a dry, ambient environment, drop out the bulbs & get in there with a hair dryer. Don't go too hot, clear the misting thoroughly & then, progressively switch down the heat on the dryer until you are back to ambient & everything has cooled down. Then refit the LEDs & all should be well .................... KEN

Awesome, thank you for the advice! I'll keep an eye on them. It may just have been the ambient moisture.

 

[madcopp94]

Installed the worldcrosser kit and new vanity plate.

 

[Sierra1]

Aw....I miss the Maine plate's lobster. I still think that New Hampshire has the best LP slogan--Live Free or Die. Hoo-Yah!!

 

[holligl]

Went out and turned over 24,000 mi...

 

[Bryce]

On Saturday, I road I the snow. Who'd expect snow in North Carolina in May! Snow on Mt Pisgah and then Mt Mitchell. We got turned around with a road closure on the Blue Ridge Parkway and had to may a detour to get to to hotel on the other side of Mt Mitchell.

Today, we finished up the BRP and Skyline Drive.

 

[Xt1200zsupertenere]

leave it to yamaha dealer for 40 000 km service ( 24 000 Miles ) , no valves nedred change chims ....
Also changed My 3 years Old tired ytz12s and put in Yuasa ytz14S instead

 

[eemsreno]

Now that's a "picture"!! Bryce

 

[ace50]

Dang, that GS looks 25% bigger than the S10!

 

[EricV]

GS - S10 - GSA

Notice the difference in how the upper crash bars are mounted between the GS and GSA.

Great pics Bryce. Good stories from that trip for years to come. ::008::

 

[hogmolly]

GSA - S10 - GSA

The GSA differences are generational

 

[Dogdaze]

GSA - S10 - GSA

The GSA differences are generational

::026:: The LC GSA is a monster of a machine if looking from the rear over the tank.

 

[cmoresky]

Last night,

I replaced the front tire according to the excellent work from Twisties "Front Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial (Read 22186 times)" ::003::

I found that I didn't have the 19mm hex driver to get the axle off so I asked my son to weld me a 1/2 in bolt, head and nut size 3/4" which just so happens to be 19mm. ;D

Using an unusually large breaker bar didn't loosen the axle. I initially blamed my son for his welding job, but inspection revealed weld was holding despite the 1/4 turn I put on the breaker bar. ??? Flummoxed, I used a sharpie to put a line down the Head/threads/Nut of my make shift tool and tried again to prove the weld wasn't holding. To our astonishment, we attempted to loosen again and saw the pen mark spiral around the threads as we bent the 1.5" long bolt now a full half turn. The weld held but the bolt failed us! That was one tight axle.

Off to late night auto store run to get an official hex driver set and wheel off, tire swap, wheel back on in 30 mins or so. Thanks Twisties

Jeff in MA
'15 Super Tenere

 

[ace50]

I replaced the front tire according to the excellent work from Twisties "Front Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial (Read 22186 times)" ::003::

I found that I didn't have the 19mm hex driver to get the axle off so I asked my son to weld me a 1/2 in bolt, head and nut size 3/4" which just so happens to be 19mm. ;D

Using an unusually large breaker bar didn't loosen the axle. I initially blamed my son for his welding job, but inspection revealed weld was holding despite the 1/4 turn I put on the breaker bar. ??? Flummoxed, I used a sharpie to put a line down the Head/threads/Nut of my make shift tool and tried again to prove the weld wasn't holding. To our astonishment, we attempted to loosen again and saw the pen mark spiral around the threads as we bent the 1.5" long bolt now a full half turn. The weld held but the bolt failed us! That was one tight axle.

I had a similar issue when I went over my friends house to change my front tire.
I brought everything including my portable front wheel lift, but forgot to bring my large hex for the axle.
We were gong to do something similar as you did, but found that some Craftsman brand sockets have a hex on the drive end so you can use a wrench on them too.
Found one with the correct hex and just long enough to stick in axle and get a wrench on it too.
Something to consider if you have those type of sockets.

 

[EricV]

PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a piece of 19mm allen wrench long enough to insert into the axle and still put a socket or box wrench on. I have several pieces that I cut years ago when I was making axle tools by just drilling a cross hole thru a socket and the allen wrench piece, then pinning them together. Fair offer for anyone until I run out.

Another trick is a 1/2" coupler nut from Home Depot or similar. Some, not all, are 19mm(3/4") across the flats and it mimics the allen wrench stub idea.