worncog
Live a life worth living.
I have a pair, and yes they do work very well, but I am looking at adding 'flares' to the stock guards to help with rain on the slab in warmer months.hawk281 said:
What you did to your Tenere today??!!
- Thread starter biting_point
- Start date
This weekend I swapped the halogen H7s for the Cyclops LED Kit and could not be more pleased. So easy to install, incredible light and when combined with the Rigid 6" LED (on high-beam), I have the immediate and complete attention of anyone approaching me (not looking at their fancy fone). Well worth the asking price of a buck-fiddy.
One install tip I can pass on... have the front of the bike lower using the centerstand or just a block of wood. This will help keep the new baseplate positioned against the reflector housing while you fiddle with the retention spring.
One install tip I can pass on... have the front of the bike lower using the centerstand or just a block of wood. This will help keep the new baseplate positioned against the reflector housing while you fiddle with the retention spring.
Al-n2it
2014 Super Tenere
Made these from a sheet of 1/8" Kydex. Created the pattern using a Manila file folder, its reversible for LT and RT. Heated with a heat gun and formed, then immediately cooled with a rag soaked in icewater.worncog said:
Huge improvement in cold weather.
yoyo
Well-Known Member
I found the wind whipped up under the hand guard so I extended them with some corrugated plastic I had laying around. It helps keep the wind off nicely.
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hawk281
started on a "enduro" now riding another 46 years
I also run a pair of bark busters (with storm handguards) with the mittens over them. good combo. I always run a a metal based hand guard, no matter what the bike is, nothing worse than snapping off levers. ::021::worncog said:
Grumpy
Getting old is not for wimps
Had a dyno run, 21200 miles on the clock and standard zorst.
1st run 108 hp @ 7085 rpm
2nd run 110 hp @7062 rpm
3d run 112.1 hp @7033 rpm
4th run 112.0 @ 7065 rpm
Happy with that
1st run 108 hp @ 7085 rpm
2nd run 110 hp @7062 rpm
3d run 112.1 hp @7033 rpm
4th run 112.0 @ 7065 rpm
Happy with that
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Decent numbers. Have you made any modifications? Zorst?Grumpy said:Had a dyno run, 21200 miles on the clock and standard zorst.
1st run 108 hp @ 7085 rpm
2nd run 110 hp @7062 rpm
3d run 112.1 hp @7033 rpm
4th run 112.0 @ 7065 rpm
Happy with that
Terminus
Member
I think Zorst is slang for exhaust?? I would love to know the origin of this term.WJBertrand said:
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Not really slang, Zorst is an exhaust manufacturer............Terminus said:
Grumpy
Getting old is not for wimps
A lot of Brits I know say zorst, it's just lazy slang. :Terminus said:
No, no mods to the exhaust or anywhere else in the power train. The readings where surprising.
Cycledude
Well-Known Member
I sure don't know how accurate motorcycle Dyno's are but it's a pretty well known fact that the dyno's they use on farm tractors very a lot.
Terminus
Member
Gotcha. I figured it had to be something like that.Dogdaze said:
Grumpy
Getting old is not for wimps
It's a bit like bathroom scales, no two manufactures will give you the same maximum result, but as long as you can see the results going up, or down it's a usefull tool.Cycledude said:
Had a dyno run, 21200 miles on the clock and standard zorst.
1st run 108 hp @ 7085 rpm
2nd run 110 hp @7062 rpm
3d run 112.1 hp @7033 rpm
4th run 112.0 @ 7065 rpm
Happy with that
They are excellent results. Actually more the manufacturer stats new. And that's power measured at the crank.
I think most if not all Dyno runs state rear wheel power thats around 10% less than crank. Making your results very impressive.
1st run 108 hp @ 7085 rpm
2nd run 110 hp @7062 rpm
3d run 112.1 hp @7033 rpm
4th run 112.0 @ 7065 rpm
Happy with that
They are excellent results. Actually more the manufacturer stats new. And that's power measured at the crank.
I think most if not all Dyno runs state rear wheel power thats around 10% less than crank. Making your results very impressive.
Installed TB synch pigtails, made a manometer, and synched the throttle bodies. At close to 23Kmi, they were actually pretty close, well within spec. Then I spent several hours looking for my primary set of keys. Normally I put them on the hanger with my jacket. No where to be found. I have a complete backup set (Bike, cases, racks, GPS), but I'm totally baffled. How easy is it to get a new Bike key?
Don in Lodi
Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
US of A it's not hard to get a new key cut... everywhere else... I don't even know what has to be done when the red key is lost.holligl said:
yoyo
Well-Known Member
If I ever lose my key it's always in the seat lock.......holligl said:
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Yes, most of the time it's in the seat or the trunk lock. This time that's where I was using my spare.
My fear at this point is I laid them on the washing machine when I changed out of the MC gear and accidentally knocked them into the recycle bin. My guess is I'll find them as soon as I construct a whole new spare set: Bike, Side cases, rack mount, Givi trunk, and GPS.
My fear at this point is I laid them on the washing machine when I changed out of the MC gear and accidentally knocked them into the recycle bin. My guess is I'll find them as soon as I construct a whole new spare set: Bike, Side cases, rack mount, Givi trunk, and GPS.
Terminus
Member
Normally when I misplace something like this, it is in a pocket of the clothes I wore the last time I used them. Maybe a fall/winter jacket that you had on when you moved it around your garage? Also one other time I had a set of keys that fell down into one of my boots. Found them a few months later.holligl said:
Good luck!!