What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[snakebitten]

Valves on my 13 Tenere checked out fine at a little over 30,000 miles yes this was the first valve check. I think the big thing is how good did they happen to set them the day they were set at the factory.

Interesting theory. And I have no doubt that if you checked 100 Brand New Teneres fresh off the assembly line they would not have identical tolerances. So that would support your theory partially.
I also believe (which is an agreement with your theory) that this plays some part in the various results that we find at our first valve service interval.

But, I don't think the factory settings are the only ingredient involved. There is metallurgy, operating temperatures, fuel quality variances, stress and loads, etc that can result in varying wear rates from one Tenere to another.

But yea, I can accept your viewpoint on this. It certainly isn't insignificant.

 

[Brick]

The purpose of causing the ABS pump to cycle is to cause brake fluid to flow through the ABS module (pump). If the ABS is never activated the fluid in the pump will never be replaced and can become what the technicians refer to as "Yucky". Practicing emergency braking every now and then is good for your riding skills and your ABS system.

Hmmm... well I have caused the ABS to cycle by doing so on gravel on purpose but I never thought that it was a good idea in order to move the yucky brake fluid out to get new in. I will do so in the future AND I will look in the service manual for this other "paper clip" procedure. I do occasionally open the brake and clutch reservoir... suck the yucky fluid out and put in new. I do this much more frequently as I don't hook up the mighty vac and suck it out.

Thanks for the education or input or whatever it was! ::008::

 

[BWC]

He stated no carbon build up and seem satisfied with my giving credit to religiously using Yamalube fuel treatment.
Can't read his mind though. Wonder if he really agrees? Lol

Maybe some evidence to help support your case.
That first pic taken waaay back around 30,000 km, now at 115,000 and while doing its winter plugs - filter I had a look to see if the Yamalube product had helped. I'm not one for adding anything to oil or fuel but after seeing the bit of build up on the intake valves I thought I would give it a try. So it does seem to have removed the build up and kept the intake valves cleaner.
I haven't changed oil brand, riding style and fuel is bought as it's always been, where and when its available but I do try to run premium if possible.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I've seen the same results with occasional doses of SeaFoam. I've personally seen it'll also cut the brown sticky crud on the walls of the intake passages.

 

[snakebitten]

Thanks fellas!

Yea, I started using the Yamalube fuel treatment back when the earliest discovery of carbon buildup alarmed us. (more than 3 years ago?)
I only chose that brand because I was standing at the counter of my Yamaha dealer while discussing this subject.
He reached over and handed me one of the single dose small containers and gave his thumbs up for the strategy.
I bought the whole display box and have always kept a few on the bike for fillups.
I don't have to measure or know what I'm doing.

As for oil, the bike has gotten its oil service at Yamaha dealers across the country from the beginning.
They all use straight Yamalube, and not the fancy grade either.

 

[VPS1]

I've seen the same results with occasional doses of SeaFoam. I've personally seen it'll also cut the brown sticky crud on the walls of the intake passages.

How do you treat with Sea Foam on an S10?

 

[Grumpy]

Washed it, now the bloody thing won't start

 

[trikepilot]

Joined the few, the proud, the Teneres with tubed tires.

No luck finding a salvage front rim yet so I tossed a 19" heavy duty tube into the front rim that I have dinged bad enough to not hold air. Works like a charm and will hopefully get me through till I do find a front rim solution. Here she is getting balanced as the Husky awaits getting her new knobby shoes

 

[Checkswrecks]

How do you treat with Sea Foam on an S10?

I fill on the way home from work and typically add 4-4.5 gallons. The SeaFoam site says somewhere around 2 ounces per gallon and I buy the full gallon cans of the stuff. Eight ounces is half of a beat up old plastic 16 oz Diet Pepsi bottle that is in my garage when I get home. I do it every few fill-ups. I use only the finest old single liter water bottle for the pickup truck, which works to be a bit short but it's easy.


For more info: https://seafoamsales.com/how2instructions/

 

[VRODE]

Thanks for the heads up. I will be adding Seafoam to my regimen this year. Only 5-6k so far so I hope there's not too much buildup but better to be safe. My new seat is getting built this week. I'm getting antsy for spring already.

 

[BaldKnob]

Joined the few, the proud, the Teneres with tubed tires.

No luck finding a salvage front rim yet so I tossed a 19" heavy duty tube into the front rim that I have dinged bad enough to not hold air. Works like a charm and will hopefully get me through till I do find a front rim solution. Here she is getting balanced as the Husky awaits getting her new knobby shoes

I got over 3,000 trouble free miles with a tube in my front. Never slipped on the rim, as pressures were over 30psi and rode down the road with no balance issues. Initially, I was concerned with the high pressure but UHD tubes are stout. I keep it in a Moose pouch on the left crash bar just in case.

 

[WJBertrand]

I received my Costco special Vision X Great Whites LED driving lights today. They mount up fine with the PIAA brackets and I think they look good. They have a halo light for DRL/fog and a driving light beam that can be separately controlled. Next step will be to wire them up. Thinking I'll run the halos full time and tie the driving beams to the high beam. What has me scratching my head though is that the pink high beam wire is hot on low and off on high beam - basackwards!

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[worncog]

I got over 3,000 trouble free miles with a tube in my front. Never slipped on the rim, as pressures were over 30psi and rode down the road with no balance issues. Initially, I was concerned with the high pressure but UHD tubes are stout. I keep it in a Moose pouch on the left crash bar just in case.

I dinged the front rim on my C10 on a trip out west and it would not hold air above 22psi. Had a tube put in and put another 4000 miles on it before finding a new rim at home. Ran normal 40psi and speeds up to just below the ton with no issues. Not ideal, but it works. Only issue is if you get a flat, then you have to pull the whole mess because a plug will not work.

 

[EricV]

I received my Costco special Vision X Great White LED driving lights today. They mount up fine with the PIAA brackets and I think they look good. They have a halo light for DRL/fog and a driving light beam that can be separately controlled. Next step will be to wire them up. Thinking I'll run the halos full time and tie the driving beams to the high beam. What has me scratching my head though is that the pink high beam wire is hot on low and off on high beam - basackwards!

No mystery - The power from the battery is going to the lights, ground from chassis or batt to the lights. These are via the relay. The relay is essentially a two sided switch. One path is as I have already described, the other side is your signal side. Power from the something hot when lights are on, and power from the pink wire, (ground when in low beam position). So, in low beam position, you get an Open circuit, no driving lights because that Normally Open relay circuit has power and power, (no ground), thus is switched Open. Flip on the high beams, now the pink wire is ground and your normally Open relay goes back to closed and your driving lights come on.

 

[ace50]

I personally use Lucas fuel additive on a regular basis. Not only does it clean and you can use it all the time, it is a top end lube for the valves and such.
Gas has no lube properties like lead from years ago.

 

[WJBertrand]

No mystery - The power from the battery is going to the lights, ground from chassis or batt to the lights. These are via the relay. The relay is essentially a two sided switch. One path is as I have already described, the other side is your signal side. Power from the something hot when lights are on, and power from the pink wire, (ground when in low beam position). So, in low beam position, you get an Open circuit, no driving lights because that Normally Open relay circuit has power and power, (no ground), thus is switched Open. Flip on the high beams, now the pink wire is ground and your normally Open relay goes back to closed and your driving lights come on.

Thanks for the reply. I'm familiar with relays (at least I thought so) as I used them on numerous occasions (horns, lights, etc.) but I've always used them with a hot wire on the signal side to close the relay and turn on the accessory. You seem to be describing a different way to use the relay so that it closes when the signal wire goes cold?

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong wire, the pink one under the upper right side faring? Putting a meter on it I find it is hot on low beam and then goes to zero volts when high is selected. Makes me think the shutter is powered in low beam and not powered when on high beam. Tapping this wire for a signal would make my lights work in reverse from desired, at least as far as my understanding goes. I'm probably confused but a diagram would be helpful for me to follow your description.

 

[EricV]

Think of it this way: two 12v sources, lights off, one 12v source and one no longer 12v source, lights on.

The pink wire becomes the ground when you have the high beams on. When the low beams are on, both sides of the relay trigger line are hot, so no ground, no lights.

 

[Kurgan]

Installed my Oxford Heaterz Premium Adventure Heated Grips today. Perfect fit for length and no fight getting them on the bars and throttle tube.

 

[AVGeek]

Thanks for the reply. I'm familiar with relays (at least I thought so) as I used them on numerous occasions (horns, lights, etc.) but I've always used them with a hot wire on the signal side to close the relay and turn on the accessory. You seem to be describing a different way to use the relay so that it closes when the signal wire goes cold?

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong wire, the pink one under the upper right side faring? Putting a meter on it I find it is hot on low beam and then goes to zero volts when high is selected. Makes me think the shutter is powered in low beam and not powered when on high beam. Tapping this wire for a signal would make my lights work in reverse from desired, at least as far as my understanding goes. I'm probably confused but a diagram would be helpful for me to follow your description.

You can trigger a relay with either the ground side or the hot side. Or in your case a 5-pin Bosch style relay will work. The 5-pin version has both normally closed (circuit complete when no current is passed through the coil) and normally open (circuit is open when no current is passed though the coil). So to use the pink wire as the trigger, you would connect it to the coil (Terminal 85), ground the other side (Terminal 86), and connect your lights to Terminals 87a and your 12v source for the lights to Terminal 30. It also doesn't really matter if you reverse Terminals 85 and 86, or Terminals 87a and 30, it will work the same either way.

 

[Stoned]

Finally got around to the suspension. Installed Penske shock and set up my fork with straight rate springs and Gold Valves. After several short rides and some initial adjustments, I am very pleased ( I knew I would be-not my first rodeo).
I will say, removing the stock compression valves from the cartridge about kicked my ass. It took a lot of heat to finally break them loose. Otherwise, relatively straight forward.