Valve service suggestions

[mrpincher]

Hey guys - I just had the 1st valve service done at the dealer and he said next time ::010::- he's pulling the entire motor to make it faster - cheaper?? ::012::

I got the sense that the valve work wasn't a problem just the ultra tight fit for our fat 'merican fingers.

I'm thinking about the next service already, and what other work could be done while the service tech had the motor pulled out and exposed?
.
BTW - all intake valves were dead on the money and three of the four exhaust were (too tight) - re-shimmed ? I know nothing about shims and valves.

I think the dealer has sold three Teneres. Mine was #1 and so my bike is the service trainer.

Thanks - Mike

 

[True Grip]

Hey Mike how many miles on your bike?

 

[mrpincher]

30,000 miles on the button when I rolled in for the service.

The mechanic said to hold off when 26000 rolled around. He thought 30,000 would be soon enough.

 

[True Grip]

Thanks I'm trying to decide when to have them done. I can't think of any other work to do with the motor out. Everything seems easy to get to other than the valves. Maybe plugs if its time but they are not that hard to change .

 

[greg the pole]

I will be doing mine in about two weeks time.
The plan is to check the valve clearance with motor in.
If it needs an adjustment, I will drop the motor (but leave the rear two bolts in to act as a pivot. that way I simply jack the motor back up, and re-bolt.
More likely than not the rear shaft will have to come out so the motorcouple does not get in the way. TB determined.
Either way, I have a new gasket, plugs. I'll do a TB sync on the way out.
will document here (shamless plug ::025:: www.thetenerist.wordpress.com

 

[nondairycreamer]

One of the conclusions from this thread is to pull the motor, easier and faster.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=9344.0

 

[True Grip]

I will be doing mine in about two weeks time.
The plan is to check the valve clearance with motor in.
If it needs an adjustment, I will drop the motor (but leave the rear two bolts in to act as a pivot. that way I simply jack the motor back up, and re-bolt.
More likely than not the rear shaft will have to come out so the motorcouple does not get in the way. TB determined.
Either way, I have a new gasket, plugs. I'll do a TB sync on the way out.
will document here (shamless plug ::025:: ): www.thetenerist.wordpress.com

Greg thanks for the work you do. I appreciate it. I've done all my work so far and would like to tackle the valves too. I like the idea of pivoting the motor if it needs shimming. Give us a heads up and thanks again. If we were in school i'd give you a star!

 

[greg the pole]

Greg thanks for the work you do. I appreciate it. I've done all my work so far and would like to tackle the valves too. I like the idea of pivoting the motor if it needs shimming. Give us a heads up and thanks again. If we were in school i'd give you a star!

thanks TG.

just going over all the info in the manual.
If Im reading this properly, the clutch cover has to come off to see the timing marks?? WTF yamaha?
I'm planning my attack. the check looks straight forward enoguh, the adjustment is a different story.

 

[BaldKnob]

thanks TG.

just going over all the info in the manual.
If Im reading this properly, the clutch cover has to come off to see the timing marks?? WTF yamaha?
I'm planning my attack. the check looks straight forward enoguh, the adjustment is a different story.

Greg, I was able to see the timing marks using just the access hole in the clutch cover. Great idea pivoting the engine rather than completely removing from the frame.

 

[greg the pole]

Greg, I was able to see the timing marks using just the access hole in the clutch cover. Great idea pivoting the engine rather than completely removing from the frame.

sweet jeebus! so you don't have to remove the entire cover?? seems like a waste.

did you do your valves? how did you find the procedure in the book?
there's a step that throws me on page 3-6. It says to locate the marks (mark K Lines up with b), then rotate CW a further 71 degrees so that (mark T lines up with b)
Then you can check the in and ex clearences. Why the extra step?

 

[mrpincher]

One of the conclusions from this thread is to pull the motor, easier and faster.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=9344.0

Yes - And now this dealers' service tech is on-board with that idea. BTW - I warned him about the chain tensioner which Jaeger22 brought to our attention. The tech confirmed it was unique though not completely new. Ha - I'm still glad I warned him.

Thanks for re-posting that link.

Wish we could have a documented comparison - with results on the time it took for both methods. Maybe this forum can put together an addendum to the Yamaha Service Manual that we can print and take with us to the dealer.

Mike

 

[avc8130]

I'll be checking my valves on Friday. I do not intend to pull the motor. We will see how it goes once I know whether they need adjusting or not.

ac

 

[greg the pole]

AC, did you read the procedure?

I only plan to drop the motor if the shims need changing. Fingers crossed, they will not need it.
The manual does a good job of id'ing all the parts that need to be unbolted moved to get to the cover, etc etc..

 

[avc8130]

AC, did you read the procedure?

I only plan to drop the motor if the shims need changing. Fingers crossed, they will not need it.
The manual does a good job of id'ing all the parts that need to be unbolted moved to get to the cover, etc etc..

Procedure?

Get to valve cover, pull cover. Rotate motor until cam lobes are up, check clearance.

If "good", throw back together and forget about for 26k miles.

If "bad", walk to fridge, crack beer, drink, cry, pass out drunk.

ac

 

[greg the pole]

yes yes...

manual says some bs about setting it at one mark (intake lobe lines up, exhaust does not) then rotate 71 degrees...
wtf?

 

[Dallara]

~


Mind you, I've never tried, so I do not know for sure, but...

It seems to me you may have trouble simply *pivoting* the engine forward in the frame to any great degree unless you plan to remove the driveshaft, which means removing the "pumpkin"... which means you'll be trying to do all this *pivoting*, etc. with the rear wheel removed, etc.

Seems to me it's sort of a "one way or the other" deal, with not much in between... Either you do the valves with the engine in the frame as outlined in the factory service manual, *OR* you pull the engine.

Just a thought... Whichever way you guys go I wish you all the best! ::008::

Dallara



~

 

[avc8130]

Maybe Greg the Pole has owned Buells in the past and that is where he is getting this pivoting idea.

ac

 

[Mark R.]

yes yes...

manual says some bs about setting it at one mark (intake lobe lines up, exhaust does not) then rotate 71 degrees...
wtf?

That is because it is a 270 degree crank. You cannot get all the cam lobes off the buckets at one crank position. You have to check some, then move the crank, then check again. That is what caused Jaeger22's problem. There is no place anywhere in the crank's 720 degrees of rotation that the cam is not pressing on one set of buckets.

 

[BaldKnob]

sweet jeebus! so you don't have to remove the entire cover?? seems like a waste.

did you do your valves? how did you find the procedure in the book?
there's a step that throws me on page 3-6. It says to locate the marks (mark K Lines up with b), then rotate CW a further 71 degrees so that (mark T lines up with b)
Then you can check the in and ex clearences. Why the extra step?

Yes, I did the 26,000mi valve check this summer and with help from the manual, a few beers and some mild cursing got through it with no issues. Looking at the manual tonight, I can see how that extra step might confuse you but is there to insure you are coming up on TDC of cylinder #1. If cam lobes are in the appropriate position with K at 3 o'clock, then proceed to rotate crank so T is at 3 o'clock and check clearance there. For cylinder #2, rotate 270 degrees and T will be at 12 o'clock. The worst part will be refitting the valve cover without buggering the gasket. I wish Yamaha would have given us an extra 1/2" of clearance from cover to frame or a bolt on cross member! Good luck when the time comes!

 

[greg the pole]

Ok. I was bored this evening so I jumped in.

got it all cleaned up, nice. used a thin screw driver to find TDC on both cylinders, and also used the timing marks on the bottom.

out of the 8 valves, 2-3 are within spec. The rest are tight (intake was .08mm, exhaust ranged from .18-.20mm) I checked it three times with identical results.

So here's the million dollar question. The range is there for a reason. Will the exhaust valves tighten up still? Should I order shims and get it done properly.

I sort of know the answer already...

Colorful write up to follow tomorrow morning...