Valve service suggestions

scudrunner

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avc8130 said:
Don't go doing anything rash and trying to "make space". There is plenty of space in that garage for the bikes and that sweet ride to live together.

ac


NO MORE BIKES


for a while....

::014::
 

markjenn

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In an earlier post viewdvb posted some screen shots out of the "XT12 Technical Orientation Guide" which had some great tips about the valve adjustment process. Because they were screen shots, the resolution wasn't great. He was kind enough to send me the entire guide in PDF form and I've put it out on a server so you can see the whole enchilada with good fidelity.

Although much of the information is repeated from the service manual, there is definitely some invaluable new information, particularly key services tips. If you do your own maintenance, you'll want to read this.

http://www.whizmoandgizmo.com/Misc/S10TOGComb1.pdf

This is a 32MB file so it may take some time to load. If you find it interesting, make a local copy; I doubt I'll leave it on my server indefinitely.

Cheers,

- Mark
 

greg the pole

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Z06 said:
Tackled the valve clearance check today. Removed the front engine mount plate and took the valve cover out the front. Seemed much easier than removing the wire harness. Came out without too much grief. All intakes in middle of range. Two exhaust valves too tight and other two at limit on tight side. Pulled exhaust cam and all 4 had same thickness shims. Ordered 4 correct ones. A whole shim kit would not have done any good for me as I needed 4 of same size.
Also have seen comments about positioning lobes straight up and checking clearance. Won't work on exhaust side as decompression pins are holding two of the valves slightly open at this position.
For a person doing it the first time, give it a day. Once done, the second go round should be down to 4 hours tops.
Cam lobes need to be at the position where the book says, due to pins.
 

scudrunner

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markjenn said:
In an earlier post viewdvb posted some screen shots out of the "XT12 Technical Orientation Guide" which had some great tips about the valve adjustment process. Because they were screen shots, the resolution wasn't great. He was kind enough to send me the entire guide in PDF form and I've put it out on a server so you can see the whole enchilada with good fidelity.

Although much of the information is repeated from the service manual, there is definitely some invaluable new information, particularly key services tips. If you do your own maintenance, you'll want to read this.

http://www.whizmoandgizmo.com/Misc/S10TOGComb1.pdf

This is a 32MB file so it may take some time to load. If you find it interesting, make a local copy; I doubt I'll leave it on my server indefinitely.

Cheers,

- Mark

That file is simply awesome. Thanks for linking to that. I love learning the nuances of my bike ::008::
 

terrysig

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Dirt_Dad said:
I just use ordinary Yamalube or Honda 10W-40 dino oil. I'm only a couple of thousand miles short of the 26K mile mark. As I mentioned, this thread has killed my interest in attempting a valve check. I did multiple adjustments on the big strom, and checks on the little strom, but can't say I enjoyed it. I'm happy to farm this one out. I know the tech (TJ) at Romney has done a bunch of them. I'll ask TJ about the issue to see he suggests.
I didn't do it on my FJRs and since I do everything else thought it a good time to get bike checked over by a factory trained tech. Unfortunately that doesn't always work out (based on a couple of bad experiences) but I've heard nothing but good about Romney and it is a nice ride from me so the plan for me this Spring is to call them for a Saturday appointment, ride down friday nite and camp next to the shop and let them work on it during the day. Then take off or camp again Saturday night as needed.
 

Doug C

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Valve clearances all checked still in spec at 50000 km. next check at 80000. I was able to re and re the valve cover as shown in the tech guide. Disconnecting and moving coil wiring harness out of the way helped greatly. I tried several times to remove out the front , no luck for me.
 

becoyote

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Problem

A friend and I did my valves today. All 4 ex. valves were pretty tight. Everything seemed to be going really well. Got everything back together and re-checked the clearances.

3 were perfect but one was super tight, much tighter than it was before the smaller shim.

I'm taking a break before I tear into it again.

Any chance the shim may have fallen off the magnet and is in there crooked. Not sure what else it could be?
 

avc8130

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becoyote said:
Problem

A friend and I did my valves today. All 4 ex. valves were pretty tight. Everything seemed to be going really well. Got everything back together and re-checked the clearances.

3 were perfect but one was super tight, much tighter than it was before the smaller shim.

I'm taking a break before I tear into it again.

Any chance the shim may have fallen off the magnet and is in there crooked. Not sure what else it could be?
Take it back apart and CLEAN everything. You are working down in the thousandths. It doesn't take but a spec of crap to throw everything off.

ac
 

becoyote

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Thanks AC, Just finished taking it apart and putting it back together with the same result.

I'll do it again tomorrow evening and keep an eye on cleaning that bucket. Do you think it would be okay to blow out where the bucket sits with the air compressor?

I'm kind of thinking it is the bucket that isn't sitting right.

Looking forward to getting past this so I can get that re-flashed ECU installed ::012::
 

avc8130

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becoyote said:
Thanks AC, Just finished taking it apart and putting it back together with the same result.

I'll do it again tomorrow evening and keep an eye on cleaning that bucket. Do you think it would be okay to blow out where the bucket sits with the air compressor?

I'm kind of thinking it is the bucket that isn't sitting right.

Looking forward to getting past this so I can get that re-flashed ECU installed ::012::
That's pretty nuts. Everything looks normal?

Are you SURE you put in a smaller shim?

ac
 

Koinz

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markjenn said:
In an earlier post viewdvb posted some screen shots out of the "XT12 Technical Orientation Guide" which had some great tips about the valve adjustment process. Because they were screen shots, the resolution wasn't great. He was kind enough to send me the entire guide in PDF form and I've put it out on a server so you can see the whole enchilada with good fidelity.

Although much of the information is repeated from the service manual, there is definitely some invaluable new information, particularly key services tips. If you do your own maintenance, you'll want to read this.

http://www.whizmoandgizmo.com/Misc/S10TOGComb1.pdf

This is a 32MB file so it may take some time to load. If you find it interesting, make a local copy; I doubt I'll leave it on my server indefinitely.

Cheers,

- Mark
Does not appear this file is available any more, can someone repost it for download. maybe through a sharefile link or drop box folder?
I don't think email will allow a large file like that.
Thanks.
 

F16Viper68

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markjenn said:
In an earlier post viewdvb posted some screen shots out of the "XT12 Technical Orientation Guide" which had some great tips about the valve adjustment process. Because they were screen shots, the resolution wasn't great. He was kind enough to send me the entire guide in PDF form and I've put it out on a server so you can see the whole enchilada with good fidelity.

Although much of the information is repeated from the service manual, there is definitely some invaluable new information, particularly key services tips. If you do your own maintenance, you'll want to read this.

http://www.whizmoandgizmo.com/Misc/S10TOGComb1.pdf

This is a 32MB file so it may take some time to load. If you find it interesting, make a local copy; I doubt I'll leave it on my server indefinitely.

Cheers,

- Mark
I know this is an old thread but did someone save the file?

Dave...
 

dilrod

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I know this is an old thread but did someone save the file?

Dave...
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
Five years later, it is my turn. This was a cramped procedure for sure. My solution for replacing the cam cover without loosening the right side panel and pulling out the wire bundle, was to seal the spark plug gaskets to the cover, then apply gasket sealer to the top of the head. After setting the rubber gasket onto the head, and while the gasket sealer was still wet, I then carefully squeezed the cover on, watching to make sure the spark plug gaskets stayed on. Once the cover settled onto the head, using some wooden picks, I was able to manipulate the valve cover gasket exactly into place. I would use this procedure again rather than pull the wiring loom.
 
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