I installed the TrailTech remote handlebar mod (carried over from Tiger1050 forum by Stevepsd) today and will try and document the process for any that wish to do this in the future.
I used this switch http://www.trailtech.net/8500-RS.html and this extension http://www.trailtech.net/V800-12.html. The extension allows for mounting the switch on the handlebar and connecting/soldering the extension to the circuit board of the instrument panel and allows a connect/disconnect of the two if needed in the future.
This mod requires removing the windscreen, and if you have the Wasp adjuster like I do, then the screen and the wasp adjuster must be removed to gain access to the little triangle panel behind the dash. The Wasp adjuster is simple to take off as a unit by removing 4 screws that retain it to mount stalks.
You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and an "L" shaped #2 phillips also. You will need to be comfortable soldering tiny connections on a printed circuit board (which for me means get the reading glasses out). Noacid core solder here, be sure and use rosin core meant for electrical connections. 11/64" drill bit or slightly larger (for drilling the hole in back cover for wire to exit)
1. After removing windscreen, remove the little triangle plastic piece behind the dash. It has 3 of the little plastic snap holders, just push in the center and they will release then you can lift them out.
2. Pull down the big rubber cover on the harness behind the dash to expose the connection. The pin to push that releases this connection is underneath. Unplug the connection to get it out of the way.
3. Remove 3 screws (phillips head #2). You will need the "L" shaped screwdriver to remove the bottom one in the middle. The top two screws will just barely line up for normal screwdriver. TIP Loosen the bottom screw 3/16" or so then remove the top two screws, now you should have enough slack to pull out the dash from top mounts and angle back so you can get a normal screw driver on the bottom screw to fully remove.
4. Place dash/cluster on workbench ( I used a folded towel to protect face of dash) and remove 8 screws in back and lift off back cover.
5. You will find the back opposite the two front push button switches (trip and scroll buttons) to have 4 soldered terminals. The bottom 2 on each foursome is the "COMMON" and will get the "RED" wire solder to one of the terminals. The upper two on left (scroll button) will get the "WHITE" wire soldered to one and the upper two on the right (Trip button) will get the "YELLOW" wire solder to one of them.
TIP Use a small soldering iron and maybe practice on tiny wire (the trailtech is like 24, very tiny) and you just need to barely melt the terminal to join the trailtech wire.
6. Before we start soldering tho, you will need to drill a hole in one of the vent holes. I recommend the one I used as it allows for routing the wire underneath the circuit board and out of the way so the back can make a seal with the front (small flange on the back piece fits into groove in front). On the inside of the vent hole you will need to pull off the little round tape filter. Drill a 11/64" hole or bigger. This is where you will route the extension cut end (later after work is complete it this hole will get a dab of silicone to seal).
7. Cut the unused connector off the Trailtech extension (I plugged the switch and extension together so I would be sure and cut the right connector off) and feed through the hole in the back cover. Now the cover needs to be stripped back about 3" to expose the 4 wires inside. I used an exacto knife. Be careful and do not cut one of the tiny wires.
8. Strip 1/4" off end of the "WHITE", "RED", and "YELLOW" wire. The Green is not used (it is the center button on the switch).
9. I checked all the terminals with an ohm meter and determined the connections to be used. Hoping the picture shows my notes.
TrailTech Wires
a. RED = COMMON
b. YELLOW = UPPER switch (when holding the switch with the wire in back on bottom)
c. WHITE = BOTTOM switch
d. GREEN = CENTER button (not used here)
NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN SOLDERING, ROUTE THE TRAILTECH WIRE UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD and BEHIND THE SCREW POST THEN OUT TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD. THIS WILL ALLOW THE COVER TO FIT BACK TO THE DASH AND SEAL. check the next picture for routing. Make sure you can close the back before you solder.
10. I chose to have the upper button to represent TRIP so soldered the "YELLOW" wire to right upper terminal
11. Bottom button will become the SCROLL, so solder "WHITE" to left upper terminal
12. COMMON must be soldered to one of the bottom terminals (I chose the closest on which is on far right)
Again, hope the picture helps clear up my instructions.
13. When you are confident in your solder joints, close the back while being careful not to catch any wire inbetween the two halves. Put the 8 screws back in and tighten.
14. Put a dab of silicone around the cable where it goes into the back of the case. Having used the vent hole it has a nice tube like structure that you can fill with silicone.
15. After letting the silicone harden some, replace dash. TIP install the bottom center screw first using normal screwdriver till you get it close then insert the upper two pieces into the rubber gommets and replace screws.
16. Connect harness, then slide up rubber boot.
17. Replace windscreen/Wasp adjuster.
18. Install TrailTech switch on handlebar. TIP I put one screw (bottom one) in and tightened nearly all the way (but still let me rotate the switch) then position and put in the top screw which you can get to above the clutch master cylinder.
19. Plug the two pieces together and make sure your routing allows full LOCK to LOCK of handlebars without pulling on the wire.
Hope this helps for anyone wishing to do this mod. Let me know if there are any questions or mistakes more likely on my part.
I used this switch http://www.trailtech.net/8500-RS.html and this extension http://www.trailtech.net/V800-12.html. The extension allows for mounting the switch on the handlebar and connecting/soldering the extension to the circuit board of the instrument panel and allows a connect/disconnect of the two if needed in the future.
This mod requires removing the windscreen, and if you have the Wasp adjuster like I do, then the screen and the wasp adjuster must be removed to gain access to the little triangle panel behind the dash. The Wasp adjuster is simple to take off as a unit by removing 4 screws that retain it to mount stalks.
You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and an "L" shaped #2 phillips also. You will need to be comfortable soldering tiny connections on a printed circuit board (which for me means get the reading glasses out). No
1. After removing windscreen, remove the little triangle plastic piece behind the dash. It has 3 of the little plastic snap holders, just push in the center and they will release then you can lift them out.
2. Pull down the big rubber cover on the harness behind the dash to expose the connection. The pin to push that releases this connection is underneath. Unplug the connection to get it out of the way.
3. Remove 3 screws (phillips head #2). You will need the "L" shaped screwdriver to remove the bottom one in the middle. The top two screws will just barely line up for normal screwdriver. TIP Loosen the bottom screw 3/16" or so then remove the top two screws, now you should have enough slack to pull out the dash from top mounts and angle back so you can get a normal screw driver on the bottom screw to fully remove.
4. Place dash/cluster on workbench ( I used a folded towel to protect face of dash) and remove 8 screws in back and lift off back cover.
5. You will find the back opposite the two front push button switches (trip and scroll buttons) to have 4 soldered terminals. The bottom 2 on each foursome is the "COMMON" and will get the "RED" wire solder to one of the terminals. The upper two on left (scroll button) will get the "WHITE" wire soldered to one and the upper two on the right (Trip button) will get the "YELLOW" wire solder to one of them.
TIP Use a small soldering iron and maybe practice on tiny wire (the trailtech is like 24, very tiny) and you just need to barely melt the terminal to join the trailtech wire.
6. Before we start soldering tho, you will need to drill a hole in one of the vent holes. I recommend the one I used as it allows for routing the wire underneath the circuit board and out of the way so the back can make a seal with the front (small flange on the back piece fits into groove in front). On the inside of the vent hole you will need to pull off the little round tape filter. Drill a 11/64" hole or bigger. This is where you will route the extension cut end (later after work is complete it this hole will get a dab of silicone to seal).
7. Cut the unused connector off the Trailtech extension (I plugged the switch and extension together so I would be sure and cut the right connector off) and feed through the hole in the back cover. Now the cover needs to be stripped back about 3" to expose the 4 wires inside. I used an exacto knife. Be careful and do not cut one of the tiny wires.
8. Strip 1/4" off end of the "WHITE", "RED", and "YELLOW" wire. The Green is not used (it is the center button on the switch).
9. I checked all the terminals with an ohm meter and determined the connections to be used. Hoping the picture shows my notes.
TrailTech Wires
a. RED = COMMON
b. YELLOW = UPPER switch (when holding the switch with the wire in back on bottom)
c. WHITE = BOTTOM switch
d. GREEN = CENTER button (not used here)
NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN SOLDERING, ROUTE THE TRAILTECH WIRE UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD and BEHIND THE SCREW POST THEN OUT TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD. THIS WILL ALLOW THE COVER TO FIT BACK TO THE DASH AND SEAL. check the next picture for routing. Make sure you can close the back before you solder.
10. I chose to have the upper button to represent TRIP so soldered the "YELLOW" wire to right upper terminal
11. Bottom button will become the SCROLL, so solder "WHITE" to left upper terminal
12. COMMON must be soldered to one of the bottom terminals (I chose the closest on which is on far right)
Again, hope the picture helps clear up my instructions.
13. When you are confident in your solder joints, close the back while being careful not to catch any wire inbetween the two halves. Put the 8 screws back in and tighten.
14. Put a dab of silicone around the cable where it goes into the back of the case. Having used the vent hole it has a nice tube like structure that you can fill with silicone.
15. After letting the silicone harden some, replace dash. TIP install the bottom center screw first using normal screwdriver till you get it close then insert the upper two pieces into the rubber gommets and replace screws.
16. Connect harness, then slide up rubber boot.
17. Replace windscreen/Wasp adjuster.
18. Install TrailTech switch on handlebar. TIP I put one screw (bottom one) in and tightened nearly all the way (but still let me rotate the switch) then position and put in the top screw which you can get to above the clutch master cylinder.
19. Plug the two pieces together and make sure your routing allows full LOCK to LOCK of handlebars without pulling on the wire.
Hope this helps for anyone wishing to do this mod. Let me know if there are any questions or mistakes more likely on my part.