TrailTech Remote Scroll/Trip for handlebar mod

[3putt]

I installed the TrailTech remote handlebar mod (carried over from Tiger1050 forum by Stevepsd) today and will try and document the process for any that wish to do this in the future.

I used this switch http://www.trailtech.net/8500-RS.html and this extension http://www.trailtech.net/V800-12.html. The extension allows for mounting the switch on the handlebar and connecting/soldering the extension to the circuit board of the instrument panel and allows a connect/disconnect of the two if needed in the future.

This mod requires removing the windscreen, and if you have the Wasp adjuster like I do, then the screen and the wasp adjuster must be removed to gain access to the little triangle panel behind the dash. The Wasp adjuster is simple to take off as a unit by removing 4 screws that retain it to mount stalks.

You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and an "L" shaped #2 phillips also. You will need to be comfortable soldering tiny connections on a printed circuit board (which for me means get the reading glasses out). No acid core solder here, be sure and use rosin core meant for electrical connections. 11/64" drill bit or slightly larger (for drilling the hole in back cover for wire to exit)

1. After removing windscreen, remove the little triangle plastic piece behind the dash. It has 3 of the little plastic snap holders, just push in the center and they will release then you can lift them out.

2. Pull down the big rubber cover on the harness behind the dash to expose the connection. The pin to push that releases this connection is underneath. Unplug the connection to get it out of the way.

3. Remove 3 screws (phillips head #2). You will need the "L" shaped screwdriver to remove the bottom one in the middle. The top two screws will just barely line up for normal screwdriver. TIP Loosen the bottom screw 3/16" or so then remove the top two screws, now you should have enough slack to pull out the dash from top mounts and angle back so you can get a normal screw driver on the bottom screw to fully remove.

4. Place dash/cluster on workbench ( I used a folded towel to protect face of dash) and remove 8 screws in back and lift off back cover.

5. You will find the back opposite the two front push button switches (trip and scroll buttons) to have 4 soldered terminals. The bottom 2 on each foursome is the "COMMON" and will get the "RED" wire solder to one of the terminals. The upper two on left (scroll button) will get the "WHITE" wire soldered to one and the upper two on the right (Trip button) will get the "YELLOW" wire solder to one of them.

TIP Use a small soldering iron and maybe practice on tiny wire (the trailtech is like 24, very tiny) and you just need to barely melt the terminal to join the trailtech wire.

6. Before we start soldering tho, you will need to drill a hole in one of the vent holes. I recommend the one I used as it allows for routing the wire underneath the circuit board and out of the way so the back can make a seal with the front (small flange on the back piece fits into groove in front). On the inside of the vent hole you will need to pull off the little round tape filter. Drill a 11/64" hole or bigger. This is where you will route the extension cut end (later after work is complete it this hole will get a dab of silicone to seal).

7. Cut the unused connector off the Trailtech extension (I plugged the switch and extension together so I would be sure and cut the right connector off) and feed through the hole in the back cover. Now the cover needs to be stripped back about 3" to expose the 4 wires inside. I used an exacto knife. Be careful and do not cut one of the tiny wires.

8. Strip 1/4" off end of the "WHITE", "RED", and "YELLOW" wire. The Green is not used (it is the center button on the switch).

9. I checked all the terminals with an ohm meter and determined the connections to be used. Hoping the picture shows my notes.

TrailTech Wires
a. RED = COMMON
b. YELLOW = UPPER switch (when holding the switch with the wire in back on bottom)
c. WHITE = BOTTOM switch
d. GREEN = CENTER button (not used here)

NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN SOLDERING, ROUTE THE TRAILTECH WIRE UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD and BEHIND THE SCREW POST THEN OUT TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD. THIS WILL ALLOW THE COVER TO FIT BACK TO THE DASH AND SEAL. check the next picture for routing. Make sure you can close the back before you solder.

10. I chose to have the upper button to represent TRIP so soldered the "YELLOW" wire to right upper terminal
11. Bottom button will become the SCROLL, so solder "WHITE" to left upper terminal
12. COMMON must be soldered to one of the bottom terminals (I chose the closest on which is on far right)
Again, hope the picture helps clear up my instructions.

13. When you are confident in your solder joints, close the back while being careful not to catch any wire inbetween the two halves. Put the 8 screws back in and tighten.
14. Put a dab of silicone around the cable where it goes into the back of the case. Having used the vent hole it has a nice tube like structure that you can fill with silicone.

15. After letting the silicone harden some, replace dash. TIP install the bottom center screw first using normal screwdriver till you get it close then insert the upper two pieces into the rubber gommets and replace screws.
16. Connect harness, then slide up rubber boot.
17. Replace windscreen/Wasp adjuster.
18. Install TrailTech switch on handlebar. TIP I put one screw (bottom one) in and tightened nearly all the way (but still let me rotate the switch) then position and put in the top screw which you can get to above the clutch master cylinder.

19. Plug the two pieces together and make sure your routing allows full LOCK to LOCK of handlebars without pulling on the wire.

Hope this helps for anyone wishing to do this mod. Let me know if there are any questions or mistakes more likely on my part.

 

[justbob]

Nice job, thanks for taking the time to document it so well. That will make the job much easier for the guys wanting to do this mod.

 

[ptfjjj]

Cool. Now.................what, exactly, is a TrailTech, and what does it do for you?

 

[ptfjjj]

Trailtech is simply the company that makes those switches, you can do the same with any 'momentary' switch. I'm going to do something similar with perch switches and also add one for a garage door opener.

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=perchswitches

Thanks, but I'm still confused about what he was using that switch for? He soldered a connection to it from the circuit board on his instrument cluster? I didn't get what that was all about?

 

[3putt]

I was able to set my clock this morning going down a deserted backroad, tried it just for kicks, would have had a hard time doing that with the OEM buttons.
But I mostly like it so I can easily scroll through the different functions without reaching up over the handlebars while doing 65 mph in a curve.

Not for everybody for sure.

Mellow, wish I would have thought of the garage door opener, would have pulled that green wire all the way out. Can still get it without pulling the dash, but more trouble now. I carry my opener in my jacket when riding local, would be nice to get rid of that deal.

 

[stevepsd]

Tiger,

Great job documenting this....I have not had the time to pull my cluster apart yet to do this mod. I found this mod very useful on the Tiger and can't wait to do it on the ST. I just came back from a weekend trip on the ST (600+ miles) and hated having to take my hand of the bars to push the buttons on the instrument cluster (was checking my Odometer accuracy compared to my GPS (on the Trip 'B' odometer) and cycling thru the avg mpg temps display).

Did you happen to check to see if the Traction Control button shares a 'common' with the other two switches? If so, I will wire the 3rd button to the TC?

It looks like the extension harness provided you with enough mounting slack....how did you end up routing the harness to the bars?

to Mellow:
The buttons/switches in this Trailtech switch assembly share a common 'ground' so to speak...that is why there are only 4 wires total coming from the switch, so you might have trouble with using the center button for some other function.

Thanks!!!

-steve

 

[~TABASCO~]

Like steve said......... did you peek at the traction control... ?

I would like to move everything to the left side... and use just my left thumb for everything....

 

[stevepsd]

Like steve said......... did you peek at the traction control... ?

I would like to move everything to the left side... and use just my left thumb for everything....

If Tiger did not check out the TC button, I will when I pull mine apart (hopefully later this week depending on work - and getting my youngest off to University!).

 

[3putt]

The TC is routed from side to on top of the circuit board with 2 wires and tiny plugin. I assume, did not hit it with the ohm meter to be sure. I know it will not let you change while moving so I didn't think it was worth the trouble. I will see if one of my other pictures shows the wires. Okay, just looked at the pictures up above, you can see the two wires coming from right side of picture from side and up on top to a plugin (very tiny). I believe that is your TC.

I routed down the handlebar and though the first yamaha ziptie (only it releases and can be reused, really like that) then through the cable guide in front of the forks. The location or vent hole I chose to come out of the dash, drops straight down in a relief area under the dash and has plenty left to plug into the switch part.

Speaking of MPG, I was getting 41 yesterday with my panniers on, but also first time I had been out with the 7.1 % speedo correction. Didn't know which was at fault, so changed to 6.1% speedo change this morning. With that setting the speedo is only 1 mph over the GPS. IT DID MAKE a DIFFerence in the MPG indicated. Now I am curious what the REAL MPG is. LOL

P.S. The ST dash seals better than the Tiger. Also several little halfmoon cutouts with little tape/filter sticker inside to vent. Pretty cool.

 

[stevepsd]

Devin,

According to my GPS, compared to the stock instruments the Speedo reads 6.1% fast and the odometer is 1.9% fast (over the course of almost 600 miles). On the Highway I am now averaging right around 48-50MPG at a true 65MPH (no bags).

 

[3putt]

That is great and about what I was thinking. Funny I settled on 6.1% correction factor. I would have made it 6% but you have to do 3 digits to set the change, and 10 blinks for 0, thus easier to set -061, which is 10 . . 6 . . 1.

Hoping it will not get too much worse with the bags. The multi can carry topcase and 73L bags (more aerodynamic ) and get 43 - 44 mpg, but it only carries 5.3 gallons. Much easier ride on the ST tho. Too bad, can't have the ST ride and the Multi above 5k rpm romping/hooning.

 

[yammie]

Really nice of you to take the trouble to post pics and document it.

Thanks very much! 8)

 

[3putt]

You are very welcome. I glean tons of info from forums where others have gone in and documented, cost me a lot of money, but love it! LOL. Stevepsd first did this mod on the Tiger 1050 back in 2008, I went back and looked at that thread (pictures are gone) and refreshed my memory.

Now he has me thinking the TC on the center button might be a nice feature also. Just have to go back in and see if the COMMON runs to the TC button also, if it does should be a simple job.

UPDATE: Just went back in. good news, white wire is COMMON, and the blue is the switch. The bad news, will have to pull the circuit board (4 allen head screws on front) and unplug the connector to get to the sub circuit board for TC switch. Pictures later.

 

[Bigbore4]

You are very welcome. I glean tons of info from forums where others have gone in and documented, cost me a lot of money, but love it! LOL. Stevepsd first did this mod on the Tiger 1050 back in 2008, I went back and looked at that thread (pictures are gone) and refreshed my memory.

Now he has me thinking the TC on the center button might be a nice feature also. Just have to go back in and see if the COMMON runs to the TC button also, if it does should be a simple job.

UPDATE: Just went back in. good news, white wire is COMMON, and the blue is the switch. The bad news, will have to pull the circuit board (4 allen head screws on front) and unplug the connector to get to the sub circuit board for TC switch. Pictures later.

Nice documentation, I will be doing the Trail Tech mod this fall. Out of time with a ride commencing the 20th.

Devils Advocate question on the traction control. What does it gain you as you have to be stopped to cycle it anyway? The scroll and select buttons, agree completely. TC will require digging deeper, a small amount more risk to the display, is ti worth it?

Not slamming you, I too have done many mods "because I can" just wondering.

 

[3putt]

You are very correct, much more risk and why I did not initially do that mod. But, since there is the extra wire, and there is a common for all three, made sense for those that wish to do it. Even tho you have to be stopped, if you are about to go, but forgot to switch to TC2 or OFF, and in gear with the clutch pulled, gives you the option to select with your thumb instead of going back to neutral, letting go of the clutch reaching over the handlebar.

For others that wish to do this, there is more risk like you have not taken any up to this point. LOL

I pulled the circuit board and soldered to the little sub board below, but you could pull the connection on top (blue and white wire) and pull the BLUE pin out of the connector, slide some heat shrink over the wire, strip some back a ways and solder your TT wire then slide the heat shrink back over the joint, plug the pin back into connector and be done with out pulling the circuit board. Saves risking bumping the tach needle or something else when you uncover the front.

I took this picture to show, I let the white wire get under the boss area where the back cover screws down and the wire got smashed, still insulated, but make a note to keep that wire away from the boss which is the white marked area around the screw hole on the circuit board.

The main circuit board lose and moved out of the way so I can solder the GREEN wire (middle switch on TT) to TC switch terminal (blue wire).

Shows my TT wiring tucked under the main circuit board and out of the way for the back cover to go on.

 

[ptfjjj]

Call me paranoid, but I have to wonder if any of this soldering to the circuit board stuff doesn't void some or all of the warranty?

 

[colorider]

Call me paranoid, but I have to wonder if any of this soldering to the circuit board stuff doesn't void some or all of the warranty?

Let's just say that if I had problems with the instrument cluster during the warranty period, I would remove the "extra" circuity (and all evidence) BEFORE taking the bike in for warranty work.............

 

[roy]

Tiger if you ever figure out how to make the TC switch on the move I am coming to Shrevport for a hands on mod since I suck at anything with wires and electronics, ;D

 

[3putt]

Roy, LOL. Yeah, this stuff is not that easy, I happen to have a headset with magnification so I could see those tiny solder joints. I had to sharpen my solder iron like a pencil.

Doubt anyone will make it change TC on the fly, ECU might throw a rod. I don't have a problem stopping and hitting the button, much easier now on the handlebar.

As for warranty, I would not expect any help if I had a problem with the instrument cluster, but it is worth the risk to me to get the controls on the handlebars.

Some Irony, the Multi has the control on the handlebar, but if you get too deep in the menus must stop to figure it out, and some things you can not do while rolling, makes sense. You can preset TC levels on 4 different modes and you can change modes on the fly, so you could have 4 different choices of TC on the fly. Way too complicated for me.

 

[bloke]

But I mostly like it so I can easily scroll through the different functions without reaching up over the handlebars while doing 65 mph in a curve.l.

fist thing i always told my students "if you really need to look at or adjust the instruments try to make sure your going at or above the speed limit and also make sure your in a curve when you do it" it adds to the excitement

seriously