Super Tenere Max speed

[markjenn]

I believe the power peak (not torque peak) is at 7250 RPM. If you want any bike's drag-limited terminal speed, you want to be geared to reach this peak power RPM right at the top speed.

If it's topping out at 6400 rpm in 6th (850 rpm below redline where the engine is probably down 6-8 hp or so from peak), this means there is probably more speed to be had in 5th. Or you may need to wring it out in 5th at or near redline to avoid the RPM dropping too much when you shift to 6th. (Some bikes won't reach their maximum speed simply by pinning it in high gear - drag climbs faster than power and they top out prematurely. To get past this barrier, you have to overrev them in 5th before making the last shift. I believe the S10 has an additional 500 rpm of overrev beyond the power peak although I don't know if the power simply plateaus or starts dropping precipitously.)

- Mark

 

[Hoosier919]

How quickly did you get to ~200K? Did it pull strongly all the way to that level?

 

[RMac]

How quickly did you get to ~200K? Did it pull strongly all the way to that level?

I'm closed down for the season now and it was over a month ago I tested the top speed, and can't really remember all the details now. What I can say is very strong pull up to at-least 180kph if not beyond..

 

[Swagger]

...... What I can say is very strong pull up to at-least 180kph if not beyond ....

I'd concurr with that. The bike's performance will impress you.

 

[Uncle]

This weekend I saw 219 km/h on the clock while passing a 1200 GSA ...................

 

[RMac]

This weekend I saw 219 km/h on the clock while passing a 1200 GSA ...................

Well, I guess you had a good incentive....

 

[Jakeboy]

I figure the S10's motor will be on a par with my DL 1000, and that bike ain't no slouch. Which is to say it'll have enough for any sane person that has plans to hang onto their license.

 

[HoebSTer]

i think the motor of the SUper 10 will be stronger. The DL1000 sure was touchy with the Throttle Body SYnc's. I had to do mine 4 times in 15k miles.

 

[Jakeboy]

i think the motor of the SUper 10 will be stronger. The DL1000 sure was touchy with the Throttle Body SYnc's. I had to do mine 4 times in 15k miles.

Mine has been pretty good. I check it every 5K miles and its held now for 15K miles. I just went through the valve clearances and had to tweak the throttle bodies just a bit, but I expected that. I use a Twin Max Balancer.

 

[RMac]

Some time ago, but when I test rode a 2007 DL1000 I remember it being very strong and eager indeed. In my mind it is possible that S10's parallel twin (albeit 270 deg crank) is gentler in response and combined with additional weight together with 15 to 20% power suck of shaft drive they may be on par with scales tipping towards DL1000 which I think may have slight advantage in terms of rear wheel BHP per kg. Where the S10 reigns supreme over the DL1000 is more rigid/massive chassis allowing stability at higher speed, and better quality components all round...My thoughts anyway...

 

[Hoosier919]

I'm closed down for the season now and it was over a month ago I tested the top speed, and can't really remember all the details now. What I can say is very strong pull up to at-least 180kph if not beyond..

This is what I wanted to hear. I don't really care what top speed is as much as how quickly the bike gets to highway speeds and passing potential on our two lane roads. My 919 isn't fast, but it is extremely quick. I like quick.

 

[pvdk]

I did 215 kph on a straight. At that speed I had to turn down the throttle. I think the max speed has to be close. To me the max speed on this type of bike is not that important. I do like the fact that (while in sports mode) the XT keeps pulling to aprox. 200 kph. I think most of the time I will use the bog torque and enjoy sprints up to about 160 kph (100 mph).

 

[Yahmy]

I did 215 kph on a straight. At that speed I had to turn down the throttle. I think the max speed has to be close. To me the max speed on this type of bike is not that important. I do like the fact that (while in sports mode) the XT keeps pulling to aprox. 200 kph. I think most of the time I will use the bog torque and enjoy sprints up to about 160 kph (100 mph).

I agree with you that top speed is not why one buy this bike. I use mine a lot for long open road stretches in the country side and ... well just being myself... I tend to open up a bit, to get the long flats behind me a bit quicker. One thing I noticed is that the bike's speedo over reads by about 10% against the GPS indicated speed. In my honest opinion that is a bit too much, since 5% would be more acceptable. I asked the dealer to correct it, but they said nothing can be done and I guess i have to accept it. I check actual speed on the GPS readout during these trips. Now... I wonder how accurate the GPS is really. I tend to think it is probably 99% accurate???

 

[3putt]

SpeedoDRD makes a cheap electronic fix. Wires in between the ABS to VSS wire going to dash, easily adjustable by percentage.

 

[Swagger]

..... One thing I noticed is that the bike's speedo over reads by about 10% against the GPS indicated speed. In my honest opinion that is a bit too much, since 5% would be more acceptable ....

That's odd. Mine revealed a 5% delta ..... how does that happen?

 

[markjenn]

Now... I wonder how accurate the GPS is really. I tend to think it is probably 99% accurate???

Almost any GPS will be extremely accurate at steady speeds on straight roads with a clear view of the sky, but you may get some significant short-term errors if you are on twisty roads, changing speeds, etc., especially if the GPS doesn't have a good satellite lock. Accurately calibrating a speedo with a GPS should be done at a variety of steady speeds, waiting long enough for things to settle down.

- Mark

 

[20valves]

That's odd. Mine revealed a 5% delta ..... how does that happen?

Tire wear maybe?

 

[markjenn]

That's odd. Mine revealed a 5% delta ..... how does that happen?

Tire wear maybe?

Tire wear might add/subtract a percent. Tire brands, even of the same size, can be off by up to 2% or so - for example, a semi-knobby like a TCK80 probably has a dramatically different rolling circumference from a sport-touring pavement tire, even if they're the same size. And wear will make a lot more difference on a semi-kobby which has much taller tread blocks.

While the wheel speed sensing should be more or less spot-on, I suspect the stepper motors in modern speedos have a percent or two variation. Add it all up and if the cards all break wrong, you could have a 10% off speedo when the average is 5%, but I suspect you'd get a bell-curve type of distribution around the mean, meaning that if the average error is 5%, 95% of bikes are going to be between 3-7% off.

These sorts of variations is why the mfgs build-in error in speedos to always ready high - so that "worst case" they'll never read lower than actual speed which would be considered a safety hazard and open them up to lawsuits.

- Mark

 

[Chadx]

Right you are. And the fact that speedos are usually off by 5 - 8% while the odometers are pretty close, causes a problem when you try to correct the speedometer because it throws off your odometer. A few percentage off on the speedo isn't an issue, but putting a different diameter tire or changing the gearing (on a chain bike) will have one wanting to install a SpeedoDRD or other type of speedo/odo correction device. If that is the case, for legal reasons, it is probably a good idea to put your odo as close to true as possible and let your speedo fall where it may. However, as someone once pointed out, "I've never gotten a speeding ticket for riding too far. Only too fast". Of course an inaccurate odometer is still a legal obligation and it's handy when someone says "turn left in X miles" if you don't have a GPS to track accurate distance traveled. An accurate odo is also nice to have so your maintenance is done at the intervals that you intend without having to spend a split second thinking "OK, I've really only gone 2,873 miles instead of 3,000" (and that is if you odo is less than 5% off). Regarding tire wear, I compared my odometer to my GPS miles traveled before and after changing out tires and noted an approximate 3% difference going from a bald Dunlop D606 to a brand new D606.

It's pretty easy to recalculate your speed, in your head, every time you glance at your speedo, but that is just one more mental split second taken away for the other things you brain should be caring for as you motor down the road. It's already been theorized (and I believe, proven, but I can't recall where I read the experiment) that digital speedometers have a rider taking there eyes off the road much longer than a needle-type speedo. Lump in the thought process of "OK, at an indicated 55, I'm really going 50, but at 75, I'm really going 67 because the speedo is a fixed percentage off rather than a fixed mph off" thing and maybe it will make a difference some day (at 75 mph, you travel 27.5 feet in 1/4 second). Ah heck, it will probably never be a safety issue, but isn't is just a bit annoying to have instrumentation that isn't accurate? I would love the factories to give us an accurate instrumentation right from the factory.

 

[markjenn]

Assuming the error is reasonably consistent, I bet someone will come up with recalibrated gage faces for the S10's speedo. I installed new faces on my 650 Strom (in fashionable white) and they look great and I've got a dead-nuts accurate speedo. And cheap as I recall, maybe $30 or so.

- Mark