Results only, avc8130 Affordable Flash Option..
- Thread starter Ramseybella
- Start date
djm_ct
Member
You have it all wrong. First of all, AC has nothing but my utmost respect for what he's doing. He has been a longstanding contributor to this forum and I have learned much valuable information from his posts, as well as the posts of others on this forum. I think his contributions and knowledge are fantastic.Frenchfries said:
Second of all, I am NOT trying to nickel and dime him out of his profits by wanting to know how his tune compares to others. I would much rather give my money to a fellow forum member than to a company which I have no affilliatiion with and all. If his product did the same thing as the ECU unleashed product, my money would go to him, whether it were 100.00 or 450.00. It's not a money issue at all. I am just looking to gain as much information as I can about potential modifications to my bikes engine, which will affect the riding experience every time I twist the throttle. I would think anyone with half a brain would want to do the same. If it were my KLR I'd just throw it on and see what happens, I'm a little more choosy when it comes to the S10.
Third, if you have done any research at all about the ECU Unleashed flash.. if you had read any of the reviews, you would realize that the ECU Unleashed flash is hardly "wasting your money". Many folks consider it to be the number one modification you can make to your bike. That's just a dumb statement.
And finally, "by-standers "? Seriously? I love you guys that join a forum and start looking to flame people. I am on this forum for two reasons. One, because I want to learn as much as possible from fellow enthusiasts. And two, I want to help others do the same.
I will say, the Tenere takes a looooong time to get properly broke in. Regardless of if/when you reflash it.
I too would like AC to get his hands on the ECUunleashed file. He has the skillset and tenacity to tweek it to individuals tastes.
I might be happy with my bike. But it's no surprise to me that the tuners (yaw know who yaw are lol) are never finished in their pursuit of perfection.
My favorite part of what AC's approach is the 3rd map.
That's kinda cool. Wish my bike had 10 maps.
I too would like AC to get his hands on the ECUunleashed file. He has the skillset and tenacity to tweek it to individuals tastes.
I might be happy with my bike. But it's no surprise to me that the tuners (yaw know who yaw are lol) are never finished in their pursuit of perfection.
My favorite part of what AC's approach is the 3rd map.
That's kinda cool. Wish my bike had 10 maps.
With some creativity, we could probably arrange for that...snakebitten said:I will say, the Tenere takes a looooong time to get properly broke in. Regardless of if/when you reflash it.
I too would like AC to get his hands on the ECUunleashed file. He has the skillset and tenacity to tweek it to individuals tastes.
I might be happy with my bike. But it's no surprise to me that the tuners (yaw know who yaw are lol) are never finished in their pursuit of perfection.
My favorite part of what AC's approach is the 3rd map.
That's kinda cool. Wish my bike had 10 maps.
ac
Just requires you programming for the clutch switch mod, right?
The way I see it, if that is true, I would just keep my current T and S programming, but add an AC designed "hang on to that throttle" clutchswitchmod.
Is that looking possible?
The way I see it, if that is true, I would just keep my current T and S programming, but add an AC designed "hang on to that throttle" clutchswitchmod.
Is that looking possible?
Sort of. If you wanted "10 maps", it might take more work and you'd probably lose your speedo...and the ABS might get mad, and the TCS might get screwy.snakebitten said:
See, the ECU has maps for each gear...for each mode. So theoretically there are ~14 maps that could be programmed. The only problem is that the ECU calculates gear position based on speed/rpm.
Anyways...enough delusion.
Based on your comment, I assume you have the ECU-U flash. So...I can't let you keep your current T and S programming unless you sent your ECU to Flash Tune to extract the ECU-U file as a backup. If you did that, I could then do what you would like. There is no way to only partially write the ECU. Each flash is a full overwrite.
ac
I agree Snake and that is how I set mine up. I actually like the mushy T mode for two up riding. It helps reduce the number of times mama's helmet hits me in the back.My favorite part of what AC's approach is the 3rd map.
Mama does not like that. ::005::
So I have so far left the stock maps alone and done all my playing in the "neutral" map. I have the CJM hooked up through a relay and a switch. That allows me to switch between the S or T mode and my SS mode on the fly. Instantly. It allows a quick comparison. I really like how it feels not in SS mode but I am still experimenting. I am sure AC's is even better.
I am very grateful to AC for turning me on to the FT produce and the help and guidance he has provided. ::008:: The DIY kit is much more expensive and most will be better off with AC's flash. Unless you are an old techno geek like me. ;D
The great thing about AC's approach is that he can set up up what YOU want. I like engine breaking so I left it alone but if YOU like the slipper clutch effect, go for it. ::26::
John
Ok, I just knew if I posted in one of these tuner threads, I'd show how much I DON'T know by saying something wrong. (terminology ignorance)
I'm not using the word "program" or "map" right. Should stuck with "mode" since my handlebar switch actually calls it "mode".
Ok, I bet I get close this time......
First, yes, I might be willing to pay the fee to flashtune to retrieve my programming "file". ( It is the latest ECU-unleashed flash file)
Then, if I am understanding this a little better, I can get AC to create a 3rd "mode" that is called on when the clutch is pulled in. (simulated with a shorted clutch switch) Is the proper term for this mode the "neutral map"?
End result would be the current T and S modes I have now. Plus a 3rd AC hooligan mode when the clutch is shorted?
And Jaeger, you threw me with the relay being thrown into your wiring scheme for having 3 modes.
You tuners amaze me.
I'm not using the word "program" or "map" right. Should stuck with "mode" since my handlebar switch actually calls it "mode".
Ok, I bet I get close this time......
First, yes, I might be willing to pay the fee to flashtune to retrieve my programming "file". ( It is the latest ECU-unleashed flash file)
Then, if I am understanding this a little better, I can get AC to create a 3rd "mode" that is called on when the clutch is pulled in. (simulated with a shorted clutch switch) Is the proper term for this mode the "neutral map"?
End result would be the current T and S modes I have now. Plus a 3rd AC hooligan mode when the clutch is shorted?
And Jaeger, you threw me with the relay being thrown into your wiring scheme for having 3 modes.
You tuners amaze me.
Snake, the relay is just in there so that it reverts to pure stock electrically when the ignition is off. The relay only has power when the motor is running. So even if I forget and leave the switch on, the relay is open. And the clutch switch is no longer shorted so the normal safety circuits work preventing it from starting in gear. With out the relay, if you leave the switch on, the ECU thinks the clutch is pulled and it will start in gear. Sooner or later I am sure I would manage to do it and drop my baby. :'(
I will AC. Thanks.
What Jaeger? You don't drop your bike? Don't let my baby talk to your baby.
What Jaeger? You don't drop your bike? Don't let my baby talk to your baby.
I've been following this thread since day one but didn't want to post and show my ignorance. I'm no smarter now than I was but just don't care anymore.
My question is does being able to flash this ECU mean that if you decided to put on headers and/or airbox mods you can tune the fuel mix without using the power commander unit? Or is that still in the equation?
For reasons mentioned by other members here, I also like having the mushy T mode for when my wife is riding with me. It keeps thing very comfortable for her and I don't have to concentrate too hard on being supper smooth with the throttle. I don't however like the fact that I only get 60% of the power in gears 1-3. Can I have my cake and it too with a numbed up initial throttle that still eventually ramps up to 100%
Currently I have the CJM jumper in place. For you guys that have a map for specifically the CJM do I understand it right that to access it you must either plug the jumper in or have it switched electronically? Or am I reading Snake's post right that you can access it by partially pulling the clutch and holding it in that position to keep the map active? That would seem impractical and tiring to me.
Thanks
My question is does being able to flash this ECU mean that if you decided to put on headers and/or airbox mods you can tune the fuel mix without using the power commander unit? Or is that still in the equation?
For reasons mentioned by other members here, I also like having the mushy T mode for when my wife is riding with me. It keeps thing very comfortable for her and I don't have to concentrate too hard on being supper smooth with the throttle. I don't however like the fact that I only get 60% of the power in gears 1-3. Can I have my cake and it too with a numbed up initial throttle that still eventually ramps up to 100%
Currently I have the CJM jumper in place. For you guys that have a map for specifically the CJM do I understand it right that to access it you must either plug the jumper in or have it switched electronically? Or am I reading Snake's post right that you can access it by partially pulling the clutch and holding it in that position to keep the map active? That would seem impractical and tiring to me.
Thanks
Well if I made you think I want to access the "clutch mode" by pulling in the clutch, I am guilty of confusing you more than myself.
I STILL expect to access the "clutch mode" (neutral map?) by shorting the clutch switch. The same way you have. Except I don't want to be bothered with taking a mini fuse in and out. So I would just re-install a simple switch on the bars.
Sorry if I confused you.
Oh, and T mode can still be smooth and "soft", even if a new flash removes the factory restrictions in 1st-3rd.
I STILL expect to access the "clutch mode" (neutral map?) by shorting the clutch switch. The same way you have. Except I don't want to be bothered with taking a mini fuse in and out. So I would just re-install a simple switch on the bars.
Sorry if I confused you.
Oh, and T mode can still be smooth and "soft", even if a new flash removes the factory restrictions in 1st-3rd.
I'm sending my ECU off to AC to be reprogrammed. Have also ordered a Yoshi RS-4 slip on and K&N breather. Today she is factory shock and should have these mod installed and functional a couple of weeks. I'm in Florida and should be able to road test right away and let you all know the results.
BTW, removing the ECU is simple enough except for the contortionist trick to get to that one bolt that holds the relay mount/cover in place.
BTW, removing the ECU is simple enough except for the contortionist trick to get to that one bolt that holds the relay mount/cover in place.
Yes that one is a pain because it is on the back side and in a recess so you have to find it and turn it blind by feel and it is hard to even reach. :'(
Here is a trick to make it much easier next time and for the install. This is easier to do than it is to explain but here goes.
While you have the bolt out, cut a small slot in the threaded end of the bolt so it can be turned with a small screw driver. When installed, the threaded end of the bolt sticks out on the tray side and is clearly visible and easy to get to. When you are ready to re-install it, reach around and push it in from the back side and hold it in place with one hand. You should then be able to see the tip of the bolt from the tray side. Then put a small screw driver through the threaded hole and turn the bolt. It should start and go right in. You still have to do the final snug up with the 5MM allen wrench. But I found this saved me a huge amount of time, frustration, and swear words! ::008::
Question about the CJM and the third map.
I added my switch today. Why not leave the connector plugged into the clutch and tap into the wires or slide the wires into terminals.
Turning the switch on would engage the 3rd map but when the switch is off all the safeties would be in place. I'm not getting the relay idea.
I added my switch today. Why not leave the connector plugged into the clutch and tap into the wires or slide the wires into terminals.
Turning the switch on would engage the 3rd map but when the switch is off all the safeties would be in place. I'm not getting the relay idea.
Exactly. That works perfectly. Just as long as you NEVER forget to turn off the switch when you stop. : Or at least, never forget and then accidentally start it in gear.
On my DR-650, I have the side stand switch disconnected and it can start in gear. Not a problem I thought because I ALWAYS put it in neural when I stop. Then one day I let my son ride it. Want to guess what happened when I hit the starter button while standing beside the bike? I found out that I can catch a 360 LB bike, at least that time, but not sure I want to try it with a 600 lb one.
It is not a big deal, the risk is relatively low and it would not be the first time my bike took a nap. But relays are cheap reliable and easy to hook up so I chose to go that route.
To each his own.
Or at least, never forget and then accidentally start it in gear. On my DR-650, I have the side stand switch disconnected and it can start in gear. Not a problem I thought because I ALWAYS put it in neural when I stop. Then one day I let my son ride it. Want to guess what happened when I hit the starter button while standing beside the bike? I found out that I can catch a 360 LB bike, at least that time, but not sure I want to try it with a 600 lb one.
It is not a big deal, the risk is relatively low and it would not be the first time my bike took a nap. But relays are cheap reliable and easy to hook up so I chose to go that route.
To each his own.
Finally got to ride and check out Flash Sat. I noticed big improvement pulling away from stops, probably going to waste a lot of gas hammering it on starts. Much more fun to ride this way. I've got 18.5 K miles, and looking back this would be one of the very first upgrades I would make to another S10.
longride
New Member
I agree! I ride the Tenere much more aggressively now with the flash. The bike was a bit dead before and required too much throttle for too little forward motion. Now it comes out of the gate like a racehorse!Chickengrease said:
When I said I didn't get the relay idea, I meant I didn't understand how you did it and how it works?jaeger22 said:
30 being power from the bike (only when running?)
85 being ground
Then you are disconnecting the switch at the clutch and running the powered wire through the switch to 86 and connecting the other wire to 87?
If that is correct where do you pick up power from that doesn't come on with the key but does come on after the bike is running?
I like the idea of not losing any the safety features.
