Oil Filters that leak

catang5oh

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That's what we found on our Purolators for a FZ-09.
I posted the pic to their Facebook and here is the response.



So it was a design change so no more using them on bikes. {113}

From Purolator.....

"Purolator Congratulations - you are our first Facebook follower to identify this important design change! In appreciation, we would like to send you some Purolator goodies.
At Purolator, we continually strive to provide improved innovation and performance of our products. Late last year we re-designed the baseplate assembly for our 14612 product offerings. This change included PureONE and Purolator Classic as well as our commercial brands.
Why the change? The 14612 series fits many applications from families including Chevy, Ford, Mazda, Infinity, Subaru and Nissan. A few of these applications are particularly difficult to reach. In order to improve the overall customer experience, we changed the baseplate design to provide additional thread engagement and a more noticeably “snug” feel when hand-tightening the filter. This improvement was accomplished by: 1. Changing the base plate from a concave to a convex design (as it shows in your photo); and 2. Slightly increasing the height of the gasket.
While the “feel” of hand installation is noticeably enhanced with these changes, it is always recommended to use a torque wrench specification of 12-15 Nm (approximately a ¾ final tightening turn) to ensure proper seal.
Thank you again for your post! Please email me your direct contact information so we can send you our Purolator appreciation kit. Email to: marketing@pureoil.com
Purolator Marketing Team"
 

nhdiesel

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An "improvement"? Glad they consider leaking filters due to an improper seal an improvement. Fortunately my Purolator from Walmart (same part number) fit well when I replaced the Carquest filter.

Guess we are going to need to build a database of which filters have been redesigned and are no longer safe to use.


catang5oh said:
That's what we found on our Purolators for a FZ-09.
I posted the pic to their Facebook and here is the response.



So it was a design change so no more using them on bikes. {113}

From Purolator.....

"Purolator Congratulations - you are our first Facebook follower to identify this important design change! In appreciation, we would like to send you some Purolator goodies.
At Purolator, we continually strive to provide improved innovation and performance of our products. Late last year we re-designed the baseplate assembly for our 14612 product offerings. This change included PureONE and Purolator Classic as well as our commercial brands.
Why the change? The 14612 series fits many applications from families including Chevy, Ford, Mazda, Infinity, Subaru and Nissan. A few of these applications are particularly difficult to reach. In order to improve the overall customer experience, we changed the baseplate design to provide additional thread engagement and a more noticeably “snug” feel when hand-tightening the filter. This improvement was accomplished by: 1. Changing the base plate from a concave to a convex design (as it shows in your photo); and 2. Slightly increasing the height of the gasket.
While the “feel” of hand installation is noticeably enhanced with these changes, it is always recommended to use a torque wrench specification of 12-15 Nm (approximately a ¾ final tightening turn) to ensure proper seal.
Thank you again for your post! Please email me your direct contact information so we can send you our Purolator appreciation kit. Email to: marketing@pureoil.com
Purolator Marketing Team"
 

scott123007

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nhdiesel said:
Guess we are going to need to build a database of which filters have been redesigned and are no longer safe to use.
I have a novel idea...

Spend the extra 3 or 4 bucks every four to 8 thousand miles and use an OEM filter ::012::
 

nhdiesel

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scott123007 said:
I have a novel idea...

Spend the extra 3 or 4 bucks every four to 8 thousand miles and use an OEM filter ::012::
The OEM filter isn't made by Yamaha, so you are getting the bargain basement special of the week. And Yamaha filters have already been rated as terrible- right on par with Fram due to having cardboard end caps, just like Fram. I'd rather run a filter made by a FILTER company than the low-bidder of the week.
 

Judd

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scott123007 said:
I have a novel idea...

Spend the extra 3 or 4 bucks every four to 8 thousand miles and use an OEM filter ::012::
Apparently, this change just took place not long ago because as I stated,,,,, I had been using these on my FJR since around 2006 and it had 90K miles on it when I sold it running perfectly fine. Several people have taken the time to actually research and at times, perform destructive testing to see what filters are constructed well and what filters are not as well constructed and the Purolators always rank right up at the top. OEM filters often ranks not so well depending on the manufacturer at the time.

How about this novel idea, I wasn't not running the OEM filter because of cost. I was running one of the better filters readily available regardless of cost. ;)

Now though,,,, it looks like I will be trying to find replacement for my beloved Purolators. :(
 

Ramseybella

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Guess I am buying the shelf of old stock Classic filters before they restock the so called improved.
10 will give me 30k miles worth of oil change.
What a bunch of knuckle heads!! ::007::
 

Abercrombie tenere

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Checkswrecks said:
Abercrombie -
That is a GREAT post because you posted the photo. That simple difference between the filter bases is something people can look for at the parts store, simply by opening the box to check. This truly is a photo being worth a thousand words.
Thanks
::008::
Well Checkswrecks thanks for the credit but I borrowed the photo from a fellow that goes by morecowbell on the FJR forum to share with you folks. The FJR and Tenere use the same filter and many have been experiencing the same problems on their FJRs. It sounds like several brands of filters are being affected by this base plate change rendering previously compatible filters unusable.
 

Judd

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Calboy said:
I don't know if it's the filter. Did you torque it to 17Nm as per the manual?
My calibrated to NIST standards wrist had it at 17.321NM if memory serves. ;)
 

EricV

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Great, first they consolidate the lengths, eliminating the 2.625" long cans and replacing them with the 3" cans, (including 14612 Purolators), now they do the concave to convex baseplate to further reduce the number of auto filters that will work on motorcycles. :(

Denso in general makes a good filter. Color me suspicious about Yamaha oem filters being "horrible".

I need to put more effort into finding a good supplier of quality filters in the oem length. If I can buy bulk, I'll sell by the case, hopefully at a decent price point, (or what's the point, eh?).
 

Don in Lodi

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Well, my case of WIX didn't change. I'm good for another 60,000 miles. ::26::
 

Bio

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Well, here is another report from me!

I just did my first 600 mile change tonight with a Purolator PL14612 I bought a few weeks ago at AutoZone. I didn't notice if it was convex/cave at all, but I did the oil change job like I've done on three other bikes I've worked on and it was very tight very quickly. Within 1/16th of a turn it went for loose to 'won't move anymore'. I didn't feel good about it, so I cranked on the thing with two hand and got it to move another 1/16th of a turn at best. Started the bike up and have noticed a small leak at the bottom of it. In researching, I found this thread!

I must have gotten one of these new convex ones. I'm kinda miffed. I've used Purolators on other bikes before, and it is true, I noticed that 'snug too fast' feeling with it.


Anyone have a better solution than dropping the filter/oil and redoing the whole shebang? If I remove just the filter, how much oil should I add back to the system (given that the sight glass is unreliable)?
 

EricV

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Most of the oil is in the 'sump', and only about a quart in the engine to begin with. The filter is much higher than the drain plug. You will lose only about the capacity of the oil filter. Pre-check the new filter for the concave/convex issue, then fill it with oil on the bench a couple of time so it absorbs most of it, then screw it on. You may need to add just a little more, but won't be in any danger of starving the engine.

Mobil One M108 filters fit, and can usually be found at the local auto parts store, but cost $$.
 

Bio

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EricV said:
Most of the oil is in the 'sump', and only about a quart in the engine to begin with. The filter is much higher than the drain plug. You will lose only about the capacity of the oil filter. Pre-check the new filter for the concave/convex issue, then fill it with oil on the bench a couple of time so it absorbs most of it, then screw it on. You may need to add just a little more, but won't be in any danger of starving the engine.

Mobil One M108 filters fit, and can usually be found at the local auto parts store, but cost $$.

Thanks so much for the info! I ran out to Napa this morning before work and picked up a Napa 1358 (branded Wix 51358?) and it had a flatter end cap. Maybe a little concave. Hard to tell really. I pulled off the Purolator PL14612 and it DEFINITELY had a convex plate on it. Rumors are true! They don't work any more. :(

The Napa one went on like every other filter I've done. Went snug and was able to crank it on by hand another 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn by hand. Ran the bike in the garage and had only a minor smear. Will check it when I get home tonight after 40 miles.

One odd thing - I followed the advice to fill the filter. I didn't bother adding more manually through the fill hole because the bike was already over by 0.2L. I did notice on my way in that the oil light came on about a mile down the road. I pulled over and the light went off. I continued on and had no other lights or issues. Reading on the issue at work, it seems it might've been a cold start (was running late to work). I admit I pulled onto the road before it had a chance to read a temperature (still said Lo). Might've been an air bubble or the sump not filling right because of the cooler oil? Dunno. Didn't have any more trouble so far.
 

pnelson

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Amazon shows the dimensions of this filter to be 3.7 x 3.2 x 3.2 inches which is LONGER than the Purolator PL14612 (2.9 x 3.2 x 2.9 inches). Does it fit inside an Altrider skid plate? Only the short filters (same length as OEM) seem to.
 

Bio

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Not sure on the Amazon size. Napa itself lists it differently: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1358_0403292498

Outer Diameter: 68mm (2.68 in)
Filter Height: 71mm (2.78 in)

If my memory serves right, it was no bigger than the PL14612. It may have been a hair smaller actually.


I'm seeing reports online that the Napa filters are going to the convex design as well, possible. Some Triumph owners having problems with them. Napa may go through filters slower than other places like AutoZone, so check your shelves. I might go back and buy another couple tonight if I don't see any leakage evident after my ride home.
 

Motard932

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Just saw this thread, experienced same issue when I went to Wal-Mart to buy the Bosch 3300 High Miliage filter and they were out. Tried a Napa version of the WIX (I'll post number tonight) as well as a plain Bosch 3300 regular from O'Reilleys. Both had the incorrect concave/convex issue. I reinstalled the Bosch 3300 HM before a recent trip. Went to Wal-Mart the other day and bought two of the 3300 HM filters but did not open yet. After reading this post I'm curious about what type I have, suspect maybe new batch at WM?
 

Bio

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That'd be my guess. My local NAPA is low traffic. More geared towards fleet operators I feel like. Very little inside for normal car owners. 70% of the floor space is warehouse behind the counter. Higher volume consumer stores (Walmart, Autozone) might have newer batches. Find the good ones while you can, I guess? :'(
 
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