Oil Filters that leak

[nhdiesel]

After work I went to do my first service on the Tenere. I'm far from a novice at this, as I've been a master tech for 10+ years and a hobby mechanic for 10+ years before that. The change went quick and easy (did the final drive as well). That is, until I started the bike. I noticed a slow drop start from the plastic skid plate/engine trim under the filter. I removed it and checked the filter, and it was tight, yet the drip continued. I loosened the filter a half turn to try retightening it (by hand) and it still leaked. OK, pull the filter. The filter sealing surface, the engine sealing surface, and the gasket all appeared to be in good shape. The only thing I did notice was that the filter seemed to tighten up pretty suddenly, without feeling the compression of the gasket. Well my bike is my transportation, so I left the plastic off and made sure the filter was on tight and rode the half mile to WalMart and bought a Purolator filter (the best brand they carry, in my opinion) and another quart of oil. I swapped filters in the parking lot and the Purolator tightened right up like it should, with the compression of the seal easy to feel. No more leak.

I'm guessing that either the Carquest filter was defective and didn't have the correct clearance for the hex at the base of the threads of the filter boss, or the Carquest filters are made to the wrong specs and won't work on this bike.

I'm curious if anyone else ever ran into this, and if not...consider it a warning to check off brand filters carefully. I'm kind of kicking myself for not having felt the lack of compression of the gasket, but I was in a bit of a hurry.

 

[pnelson]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

Purolator PL14612 PureONE Oil Filter - $7.19 with free shipping from Amazon. I usually get 4 at a time and re-order when I'm down to 2. This filter is the same (short) length as OEM so it WILL fit on bikes using Alt-Rider skid plates. Some filters while compatible won't fit inside the skid plate because they are longer than OEM. This filter works great.

Amazon link >> http://amzn.to/1bTrtx2

;-)

 

[nhdiesel]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

Purolator PL14612 PureONE Oil Filter - $7.19 with free shipping from Amazon. I usually get 4 at a time and re-order when I'm down to 2. This filter is the same (short) length as OEM so it WILL fit on bikes using Alt-Rider skid plates. Some filters while compatible won't fit inside the skid plate because they are longer than OEM. This filter works great.

Amazon link >> http://amzn.to/1bTrtx2

;-)

That is the one I went with. I only used the Carquest because the Tenere uses the same filters as my ST1300, and I had that one left over. I run the longer filter on the ST, but went back to the OEM length for the Purolator in case I buy a skid plate before my next oil change (unlikely, that will be in about 3 weeks or so).

Interesting info about the change in some filters. I'll definitely be paying better attention.

 

[yz454]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

Purolator pl14612 Bi mart on sale all the time .

 

[Don in Lodi]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

After work I went to do my first service on the Tenere. I'm far from a novice at this, as I've been a master tech for 10+ years and a hobby mechanic for 10+ years before that. The change went quick and easy (did the final drive as well). That is, until I started the bike. I noticed a slow drop start from the plastic skid plate/engine trim under the filter. I removed it and checked the filter, and it was tight, yet the drip continued. I loosened the filter a half turn to try retightening it (by hand) and it still leaked. OK, pull the filter. The filter sealing surface, the engine sealing surface, and the gasket all appeared to be in good shape. The only thing I did notice was that the filter seemed to tighten up pretty suddenly, without feeling the compression of the gasket. Well my bike is my transportation, so I left the plastic off and made sure the filter was on tight and rode the half mile to WalMart and bought a Purolator filter (the best brand they carry, in my opinion) and another quart of oil. I swapped filters in the parking lot and the Purolator tightened right up like it should, with the compression of the seal easy to feel. No more leak.

I'm guessing that either the Carquest filter was defective and didn't have the correct clearance for the hex at the base of the threads of the filter boss, or the Carquest filters are made to the wrong specs and won't work on this bike.

I'm curious if anyone else ever ran into this, and if not...consider it a warning to check off brand filters carefully. I'm kind of kicking myself for not having felt the lack of compression of the gasket, but I was in a bit of a hurry.

That's the same numbering system as WIX, the last three numbers needed to be 358, not 356.

 

[Abercrombie tenere]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

Over on the FJR forum many people are talking about auto filters being redesigned. The threaded area inside the filter is now convex shaped were it was previously concave shaped. This has prevented the filter gasket from making full contact with the engine case causing the rash of oil leaks. I just use the OEM filters for a couple of bucks more with now worries.

 

[SAL]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

I had same problem with Carquest Filter. Discontinued using it. Back to Purolator

 

[Checkswrecks]

Re: Carquest 85356 Oil Filter Leak

Dallara and I are both in travel.

To update the stickied part number list in the Tech Area, please post in THIS thread any filters known to not work. For now, I will just change the title of this thread.

We will update the list when we can.

 

[OldRider]

OEM filter for me. No known issues.

 

[motoguy]

Ran into the same problem with a bosh filter. Just use fram or the oem filter now.

 

[Bappo]

I've been using the Wix 51358 for ever and it has always been perfect. And it is always in stock at O'Reilly's Auto.

 

[Judd]

Oil Change heads up

Heads up on a couple of oil change related subjects.

First is oil capacity. Type in "Super Tenere oil capacity" on a google search and the first hit that comes up is Wikipedia's page that states the oil capacity at 4.4 quarts which is wrong. Correct is 3.59 quarts with filter change as listed in the Yamaha Owner's Manual. I found this out on my 3rd oil change when I was outside and didn't want to go in a look at the manual. I didn't remember off hand and just looked it up on my phone. Thankfully the Rotella I use comes in 4 quart containers so I simply added the whole container then started it, let it run for a bit then shut it down and waited a bit to verify oil level as you would with any oil change, especially an oil change on a dry sump engine {my XR is very picky on this}. As such, it was only a 1/2 quart or so over filled. I loosened the oil filter, let it drain a bit then retightened and it was nearly spot on with it being just a bit over filled. Glad as hell I didn't pop another half quart in there.

If anyone here has added to Wiki,,,, please update the oil capacity if possible.

Second oil change related issue.

I have been using Purolator 14612 filters on my FJR1300 for years and many, many changes without issue. On this last change I noticed that it basically had no "crush" when tightening the filter up. Usually, you feel the gasket contact the engine block as you are tightening and usually, you have at least a 1/2 turn or often, a full turn or more that you can tighten it before it gets too hard to tighten any further by hand. On some oil filters that use a round cross sectioned O-ring instead of a square cross section one, that is usually closer to that 1/2 turn I initially stated. In any event, there was basically no "crush" on this particular filter when I tightened it. Almost like a nut or bolt pulling up without any gasket much less a fairly thick oil filter gasket.

So, yesterday I noticed some oil leakage against the dirty engine block and upon closer investigation, discovered the oil filter was weeping a small amount of oil. I had another 14612 in the shop that's been sitting for quite awhile so remembering that experience while tightening it, figured I might have gotten a one in a million filter with a less than perfect gasket. I removed it and noticed it was still tight. Once off I compared it to my "old 14612"{old being the one that's been sitting in the shop}. Found that the "new 14612" {new being the one I had just bought and had installed on my bike that leaked} had a gasket that was thinner in height and width than the old one. Height of difference was nearly 1 mm as measured from the filter's metal O.D. with a caliper the best I could as you can not get 100% accurate results with a caliper when measuring compressible rubber parts. Width difference{I.D. to O.D.} was also roughly 1mm. The "old" version seemed to have considerably more "crush" more in line with what I have experienced in the past with my FJR which would make sense considering the the two differences.

Please note, this was my 3rd oil change on this Tenere using this same Purolator 14612. The other two did not weep oil at all. I had not noticed any issue so I do not know if those two filters had the smaller gasket but I do not remember the difference in "crush" I noticed with this last filter. Also, like I stated before, I have been using this exact filter on my 04 FJR that I recently sold with 90K miles on it.

 

[Shovelhead]

Re: Oil Change heads up

another reason to outlaw cell phones and non OEM oil filters........... ;D

 

[Ramseybella]

I have been using the Purolator Classic since my Tiger 1050 now on my Tenere same size filter.
I pick one up when I pick up a gallon of Shell T-6, never experienced one bad filter from Purolator.
I have to admit I spray paint the White Wart black a few days in advance.

 

[nhdiesel]

Re: Oil Change heads up

Exactly my experience with the Carquest. I didn't notice the lack of crush the first time I installed it, but when I was paying better attention trying to find out why it was leaking, it was quite clear the second time I tightened up the Carquest filter. Fortunately the Purolator worked well.

For those stuck on OEM filters, keep in mind vehicle manufacturers rarely make their own filters. Many are supplied by low bidder. Yamaha filters are currently supplied by Denso, a large OEM filter supplier. That could change next week, or next year. Even so, one independent test I read rated the Yamaha filter "Unacceptable" because it uses cardboard end caps much like Fram. I have cut open used Frams and would never, ever use one on any of my engines. I'm not going to say the Yamaha filter is as bad, as I haven't opened one up myself. But I'll trust my engine to a company who's main interest is making high quality filters, not making them as a sideline. It would seem that the fitment issue was due to a change of design. Since these filters don't list Yamaha motorcycle engines as a direct fit, I'd say we just have to change the Carquest filter status from "will work" to "will not work". I'll try an actual Wix filter next change in a few weeks to see if they still fit. I'll pay better attention to the compression of the seal.

I have been using Purolator 14612 filters on my FJR1300 for years and many, many changes without issue. On this last change I noticed that it basically had no "crush" when tightening the filter up. Usually, you feel the gasket contact the engine block as you are tightening and usually, you have at least a 1/2 turn or often, a full turn or more that you can tighten it before it gets too hard to tighten any further by hand. On some oil filters that use a round cross sectioned O-ring instead of a square cross section one, that is usually closer to that 1/2 turn I initially stated. In any event, there was basically no "crush" on this particular filter when I tightened it. Almost like a nut or bolt pulling up without any gasket much less a fairly thick oil filter gasket.

 

[yz454]

I think I mite reuse the old filter if I had to use a Fram. It,s always been on the bottom of filter tests .

 

[Abercrombie tenere]

Before you install a non OEM filter insure that the bottom is not a recently redesigned filter with a convex area around the threads. I think that it is bottoming out against the engine case and not allowing the gasket to seal.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Before you install a non OEM filter insure that the bottom is not a recently redesigned filter with a convex area around the threads. I think that it is bottoming out against the engine case and not allowing the gasket to seal.

Look at that! That's the difference between the 1356 and the 1358 but in the same part number! Yes, that's what bottoms out. I honestly wasn't wanting to believe a manufacturer would change such an important part of the design. That would be enough to screw up fitting right in the automotive field as well. Dangit, now your going to make me go check my new case of filters, just in case...

 

[Checkswrecks]

Abercrombie -
That is a GREAT post because you posted the photo. That simple difference between the filter bases is something people can look for at the parts store, simply by opening the box to check. This truly is a photo being worth a thousand words.
Thanks
::008::

 

[nhdiesel]

Abercrombie -
That is a GREAT post because you posted the photo. That simple difference between the filter bases is something people can look for at the parts store, simply by opening the box to check. This truly is a photo being worth a thousand words.
Thanks
::008::

::026::
I would have taken a photo of mine but I threw it out, since I didn't want to carry a used filter home with me on the bike. Very clear photo of the issue.