Oil Change

[Curt]

Pure speculation, but I think the sight glass inconsistency is due to there being two chambers in the oil pan (hence 2 drain bolts), that are separated by a cast wall and a gasket as below. The sight glass appears to show the level in the rear compartment.

I bet if one turns off the bike while pointed downhill, more of the oil will have been pumped into the front compartment and the level will show low, and if one turns off the bike while pointed uphill, more of the oil will be left in the rear compartment and it will show high. Something to try tomorrow...

 

[Reveille]

Not speculation at all. I think you're right on the $. Drain the oil on the side stand until it stops dripping and add 3.6 quarts and ride 3000 miles then repeat. Remember the STEN has an oil level light so if it's over or under filled you get a warning light. I forgot mine had an oil sight glass.

 

[TXTenere]

Not speculation at all. I think you're right on the $. Drain the oil on the side stand until it stops dripping and add 3.6 quarts and ride 3000 miles then repeat. Remember the STEN has an oil level light so if it's over or under filled you get a warning light. I forgot mine had an oil sight glass.

The oil light will come on if the tank is overfilled? I was aware of it coming on for being underfilled, but not aware it came on when the tank was overfilled.

 

[Reveille]

Another overfill warning is oil dripping from the air box. Hard to overfill this bike from my experience though. As long as you drain on the side stand and add 3.6 quarts you are well within the ballpark.

 

[Ramseybella]

That's why I completely stopped worrying about this. About 20k miles ago I just started drain the oil on the sidestand. 10 minutes later I put the plug back in and dump a gallon jug of Rotella in, put the cap on and ride. I'll take my chances with the extra 1/2 cup'ish of oil in the case.

I am done with all the Oil level foolishness I am with you on this one!!

I have done it three times dumping a Quick full gallon of T-60 into this bike and had minimal amount in the air box and drain Reservoir when i replaced the Air filter.
I have been thinking on extending the tube so you can get to it from the outside of the bike and pull the plug once in awhile and drain it.
This is more madding than reading the black dip stick on my old Triumph 1050 Tiger.. ::010::

 

[racer1735]

And to conclude my worrying about this topic, as mentioned a week ago, I changed my oil and filter, put in 3.6 qt, let the engine get to operating temp, shut down and didnt' see any oil in the sightglass at all. Let it set for a week as I couldn't find any riding time. Still nothing. Went for a 100+ mile ride yesterday, got home, shut down and waited 10 minutes and.....oil just below the top mark! ::012:: And still there this morning. I'm happy, didn't overfill....didn't add additional oil after the change. And this bike (at least mine), doesn't burn oil. Also will add that my history with Mobil 1 MX4T, or Racing, or whatever you want to call it, is smooth shifting over the life of the oil.

 

[shrekonwheels]

I changed my oil, it was like any other oil change save the extra drain plug.













Just wanted to help push this over 25 pages O

 

[Goldwing]

I removed both plugs while the big was on the center stand and then with the plugs off tipped the bike over to the left, about a 1/4 quart more oil came out.

 

[tomatocity]

I removed both plugs while the big was on the center stand and then with the plugs off tipped the bike over to the left, about a 1/4 quart more oil came out.

And if you compress the rear suspension you will release more oil.

 

[Ramseybella]

This is getting funny but When I had my Triumph 1050 Tiger a Tiger forum member recommended that if you put a piece of a wooden broom handle under the front tire it was the correct height and would put the motor at the perfect level to check your dip stick!!
I am not making this S**T up..

 

[whisperquiet]

I ride 5000 miles, change oil only on a full moon for full gravitational pull, drain both plugs, replace the oil filter, and refill with 3.6 qts of 15w40 Rotella/new oil filter, and ride another 5000 miles.

 

[Mzee]

I use Motul 20w50 since the 40,000km. I change the oil every 5000km. I have overfilled twice with probably 4 litres and nothing has happened. I am at 95,000km.

 

[BaldKnob]

I use Motul 20w50 since the 40,000km. I change the oil every 5000km. I have overfilled twice with probably 4 litres and nothing has happened. I am at 95,000km.

Do you find any oil in the airbox? I would think the engine will force any excess oil up and into this via the crankcase vent.

Not that it matters but I fill a new filter with oil prior to spinning it on and add 3.7-8L without any issues.

 

[Erik XTZ]

My dealer has given me the advice to fill up with 3,8 liter after replacing the oil filter. The advice is an result from experiencing with S10's after starting up with 3,4 liter and trying to keep the oil light out and the glass full. ::001::

 

[Urvile]

Ok so I had stripped the oil plug bolt on the oil pan and went into the auto shop to get an oversized bold to fix the problem however when I screw the bolt back on. It actually cracked the oil pan. Do I only need the bottom half of the pan which they call the strainer?

 

[TimLaw]

Ok so I had stripped the oil plug bolt on the oil pan and went into the auto shop to get an oversized bold to fix the problem however when I screw the bolt back on. It actually cracked the oil pan. Do I only need the bottom half of the pan which they call the strainer?

Surely you jest.....

 

[markjenn]

Ok so I had stripped the oil plug bolt on the oil pan and went into the auto shop to get an oversized bold to fix the problem however when I screw the bolt back on. It actually cracked the oil pan. Do I only need the bottom half of the pan which they call the strainer?

You need the bigger piece which Yamaha calls the "strainer cover", not the smaller piece that bolts onto the big piece which Yamaha calls the "element cover". List price about $225.

- Mark

 

[richarddacat]

made it through the "oil thread" ::025:: now the "tire thread"... ::025::





::021::

 

[Don in Lodi]

Ok so I had stripped the oil plug bolt on the oil pan and went into the auto shop to get an oversized bold to fix the problem however when I screw the bolt back on. It actually cracked the oil pan. Do I only need the bottom half of the pan which they call the strainer?

Meet the Hulk! ???

Just a POI; the gasket only needs to be compressed a tiny bit to seal, the threads are not what does the sealing, so cramming on more torque than needed does what you've discovered.

Let's go for a ride when you get her re-sealed. ::26::

 

[shrekonwheels]

Ok so I had stripped the oil plug bolt on the oil pan and went into the auto shop to get an oversized bold to fix the problem however when I screw the bolt back on. It actually cracked the oil pan. Do I only need the bottom half of the pan which they call the strainer?

For future reference, you screw in the plug with your fingers, it should go in very easily, once it gets tight you take your wrench/socket and merely snug the bolt.
Snug means snug, probably about a quarter turn beyond the point you could no longer finger tighten the bolt.
I believe the torque is around 12ft/lbs. For twenty dollars you can never mess up again http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-M202-P-8-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0002KNX34/ref=sr_1_17?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1428809737&sr=1-17&keywords=torque+wrench

Same goes for your filter, your filter should only be hand snug, that is it.

Start up the bike, look for leaks, ride and have fun.