Oil Change

[racer1735]

I gave my Super Ten its first oil and filter change under my care. Dealer said they changed the oil before I purchased, but now I have a baseline for my maintenance. used Mobil 1 Racing 4T and a Bosch 3300. Also changed the final drive fluid and replaced all drain plug gaskets (don't normally, but all 3 showed signs of being used for awhile). I then spent the better part of 90 minutes chasing the oil level (which I was prepared for, having read various threads on this forum). Ended up taking almost 3.8 qts, but the level is smack in the middle of the sight glass after warming engine up and letting it set for 10-15 minutes. Checked it again this morning to confirm). I've had a dry sump in a previous dual sport bike and have to admit that at least its easier to keep checking the level in the sight glass as opposed to continually pulling a top-mount dipstick to search for a level.

 

[Ramseybella]

it wouldn't a oil thread without a Amsoil wonder claim! ::002::

 

[Dallara]

Nothing like a bit of "Dogma" and Buddy to spice up a thread!!!*

Dallara







* - in case you're not familiar with the "Dogma" I refer to - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0120655/ - and - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buddy_Christ

 

[longride]

With a dry sump it makes zero differnece if it is a little high or low. People need to quit swaeting this. It isn't that critical.

 

[creggur]

With a dry sump it makes zero differnece if it is a little high or low. People need to quit swaeting this. It isn't that critical.

This is the nice thing about doing your own services.
I know that I:
1) drained all of the oil
2) changed the filter
3) put exactly 3.6 quarts in

The fact that the oil level looks a touch high when I check it doesn't concern me one iota - I know how much oil is in there....

 

[ridefast99]

You guys are nuts ..use 5w-40 rotella T6 get a old windshield washer jub clean it out good and put 3.5 gals in it mark the oil level all the way around and there you go if more is needed after you run the bike then just add the small amount to finish it off...simple stop making yourselfs nuts....ridefast99 ::018::

 

[Yamaguy55]

With a dry sump it makes zero differnece if it is a little high or low. People need to quit swaeting this. It isn't that critical.

Spoil sport. People have been sweating the irrelevant for as long as there have been people. Let them have their fun.

Fuel to fire: I use Mobil1 10-40 motorcycle oil. It most definitely gets greater volume when hot than when cold. Most synthetics seem to do this. Cold, right at upper mark. (that's after a start and run for 30 seconds to one minute. After I get done riding, it is above the window. It is magic swelling oil.

 

[scott123007]

You guys are nuts ..use 5w-40 rotella T6 get a old windshield washer jub clean it out good and put 3.5 gals in it mark the oil level all the way around and there you go if more is needed after you run the bike then just add the small amount to finish it off...simple stop making yourselfs nuts....ridefast99 ::018::

Remember to post up how well your bike runs with 3.5 "gals" of oil in it : )

 

[markjenn]

Fuel to fire: I use Mobil1 10-40 motorcycle oil. It most definitely gets greater volume when hot than when cold. Most synthetics seem to do this.

Like all materials, motor oil has a coefficient of thermal expansion. (I don't think regular vs. synthetic makes any significant difference.) In going from room temp (65 deg F) to operating temp (180 deg F), oil expands by about 5%. Whether this would be visible on the sight glass, I don't know.

- Mark

 

[Yamaguy55]

Like all materials, motor oil has a coefficient of thermal expansion. (I don't think regular vs. synthetic makes any significant difference.) In going from room temp (65 deg F) to operating temp (180 deg F), oil expands by about 5%. Whether this would be visible on the sight glass, I don't know.

- Mark

I know, but since the excitement was about the oil level, I thought I'd stir it up. If level in the oil reservoir gets you wound up, then expanding oil in that same reservoir should really get you going. Beats being in a coma, I suppose.

I'm not mocking anyone, but am suggesting maybe it really isn't the doomsday thing some seem to think it is. Until you get windage problems or the gearbox is submerged, it really does't matter if your level is slightly high. Those two things matter greatly, however. Consider running across the back yard. Now consider running across the same place in five feet of water. Next: consider how the oil pump pumps the liquid oil. Then, consider how well it would do if the oil were a bubbly froth instead of a liquid. That's what did in the old TX750, the original counterbalancer equipped Yamaha. We had one guy that only pulled TX750 engines and swapped parts all day, every day. Our Tenere engine has that ancestry, but not that problem.

See: now I've brought up other dangers lurking in our sumps! We're all doomed! Doomed, I say, doomed! (not really)

I'm not a petroleum engineer, but the explanation I've gotten about synthetics is they are viscosity stable rather than being enhanced with plastomers (micro spaghetti) that swell when warm to maintain the viscosity. So the synthetics do not thin as much as they heat up, rather than relying on additives to modify the thinning of the base oil. It could merely be me, but I've noticed synthetics seem to gain a bit more volume when hot than regular oil.

 

[Reveille]

Remember to post up how well your bike runs with 3.5 "gals" of oil in it : )

LMFAO. You owe me a new computer monitor.... ::025::

 

[Ramseybella]

LMFAO. You owe me a new computer monitor.... ::025::

Come now leave him alone, he got excited about a new Oil thread and his Oil swelled to three and a half gallons from 3.5 quarts!! ::26::

 

[rem]

Maybe he meant 3.5 oily gals ….. > ???? R

 

[creggur]

Maybe he meant 3.5 oily gals ….. > ???? R

Oil Change Party at Ridefast's house...Woot!

 

[tomatocity]

Who is using more than the prescribed oil amount. Don't have anything negative to say about it. Just wondering where any excessive oil goes.

 

[Duckhead]

After reading some of the Oil change threads I ran across a point by Dallara regarding the useage of a crush washer vs a gasket. I first replaced all my plugs with magnetic replacements and the supplied "crush washers". These washers are not "gaskets" although by nature of the "crush" nomenclature I believe they accomplish the same function. I looked in the parts diagram from Yamaha and there are two distinct part number as Dallara had suggested. So I ordered 5 of each. .....ironically I received the order yesterday and was sent "10" gaskets all with the same part number, not the two distinct part numbers as ordered. Moral of the story, if it dont leak dont worry.
Googling the terms "washer" and "gasket", it appears that the "gasket" is the precision, scientific superior to the bastard step child "washer"

 

[markjenn]

...ironically I received the order yesterday and was sent "10" gaskets all with the same part number, not the two distinct part numbers as ordered.

That's odd. Unless Yamaha has changed something recently, the crankcase sealing washers (90430-12213) are solid soft-metal (copper?), while the final drive sealing washers (214-11198-01) are the crush type (alum?) that have a structure and flatten with use. I have no idea why Yamaha specs the different types nor if there are any drawbacks to using one for the other. As you say, if it seals, that's all that matters.

- Mark

 

[MEROST]

I was in the motorcycle shop this past weekend getting a filter and the crush washers. The parts guy showed me the engine schematic/parts diagram for the ST motor. According to the diagram it looks like there is a space next to the oil filter where you could attach a second oil filter (running two at once) if you wanted. Anyone know anything about this. I did a search but didn't find anything mentioning running two oil filters.

 

[markjenn]

According to the diagram it looks like there is a space next to the oil filter where you could attach a second oil filter (running two at once) if you wanted.

I've wondered about this also. There is a symmetric spot on the right side of the motor next to the existing oil filter, but I doubt you could simply take the finned cover off and screw on another oil filter, nor would there be any reason to do so even if you could - the bike has plenty of filtration as is. I've never seen an oil circulation diagram for the motor, so I don't even know if the oil passages route to this space, but assuming they do, my guess is that this spot is intended to mount an auxiliary oil cooler, perhaps for racing, but Yamaha hasn't done anything with this yet. Sometimes these motors are built for multiple applications and have provisions for accessories that may be required of other applications.

- Mark

 

[B1MOPAR]

I also just did first oil change, measured volume of oi removed and found it had been filled with 4.5 litres from the Dealership.
Did the correct volume that Yamaha recoends and no issue. The oilsystem apears to e to be a semi dry sump, generaly a true dry sumo we always checked with engine running for volume. This my experience with raceing systems not as familiar with the bikes yet. Please let me know if Iam wrong just going off the system diagram.