No idle and high idle problem

JoshMundy

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So went and picked up bike today. Started to ride it home and just curious pulled in clutch on hwy and bam, bike died. Popped clutch it started, rode to nearest exit, bike dies on exit. NO error codes or anything, just dies. Turn key off, wait 10 seconds, turn back on and start bike and it starts up. Ride it back to shop no issues (ofcourse!) So talk with mechanic about what all it was doing and more, and they take it back to look into it more. I know its hard for them to do much with something that is intermittent, but hopefully they experience it dying without codes here soon so they see whats going on and im not just crazy!
 

Checkswrecks

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JoshMundy said:
So went and picked up bike today. Started to ride it home and just curious pulled in clutch on hwy and bam, bike died. Popped clutch it started, rode to nearest exit, bike dies on exit. NO error codes or anything, just dies. Turn key off, wait 10 seconds, turn back on and start bike and it starts up. Ride it back to shop no issues (ofcourse!) So talk with mechanic about what all it was doing and more, and they take it back to look into it more. I know its hard for them to do much with something that is intermittent, but hopefully they experience it dying without codes here soon so they see whats going on and im not just crazy!

Try shorting the clutch wires beneath the left hand grip and see if it kills the problem. This is a rouble-shooting step and realize that this will create hazards that include being able to start with the clutch engaged and that the cruise will not be de-actiavted by pulling the clutch. If it does not, follow the wires to the connector near the ECU and short them there. About 14% of electrical issues are in connectors and so see if one of yours has an intermittent connection.
 

JoshMundy

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Checkswrecks said:
Try shorting the clutch wires beneath the left hand grip and see if it kills the problem. This is a rouble-shooting step and realize that this will create hazards that include being able to start with the clutch engaged and that the cruise will not be de-actiavted by pulling the clutch. If it does not, follow the wires to the connector near the ECU and short them there. About 14% of electrical issues are in connectors and so see if one of yours has an intermittent connection.
Curious, why would shorting the clutch wires cause the bike to die when clutch is pulled in? IIRC, all the clutch wires do on a pre 14 bike is not allow the bike to start when clutch lever out and in gear.
 

Checkswrecks

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JoshMundy said:
Curious, why would shorting the clutch wires cause the bike to die when clutch is pulled in? IIRC, all the clutch wires do on a pre 14 bike is not allow the bike to start when clutch lever out and in gear.

The ECU also recognizes the state of the clutch, because this is a throttle by wire bike.
I should have added the step of trying to run it with the wires disconnected at the closest possible to the ECU. This will require pulling a pin from a connector. If you don't have a pin tool the dealer should.
 

JoshMundy

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Checkswrecks said:
The ECU also recognizes the state of the clutch, because this is a throttle by wire bike.
I should have added the step of trying to run it with the wires disconnected at the closest possible to the ECU. This will require pulling a pin from a connector. If you don't have a pin tool the dealer should.
Thats right, there is a different mapping for the ecu when clutch lever is pulled in. But wouldnt a different ECU have corrected an issue with the mapping when pulled in?
 

Nimbus

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Ramseybella said:
I have never received a code after over two years of dealing with this issue.
I noticed when I watched the YouTube video with the guy that rerouted his stator bundle it was buried deeper into his cluster, like under the tank mine was fairly open and away under the throttle bodies assembly closer to the upper transmission casing with little effort to pull it through.
I am guessing following the schematic map on how to lay out the harness on the assembly line at the factory does not have a set standard? This leads me to believe 1. only random bikes have this issue. 2. QC is or was lacking at the factory. And 3. After the Tsunami people may not have their minds on work?
My throttle cable has always been backed off just a hair from full. When I did the Stator harness while it was running I did tug and tap the cluster on the right side cover off.
I found you could indeed get the throttle to react in a bad way just like when the issue starts rearing it's ugly head without notice.
SERIOUSLY>>>us poor unfortunate ones need to contact each other (PM ME) team up and demand some Yamaha heads to fix our dangerous and frustrating issue. We deserve better treatment . Why haven't we heard anything like this from the generation 2 owners? My theory and I have voiced this many times on these threads Yamaha knew of this issue and fixed it without posting a recall for all Generation 1 owners to have a new wiring harness installed, we had 3 recalls I think it's time for a forth.
I am up for it I posted a thread awhile back with a link to NHTSA and submit a complaint.. I know some of you posted you filed but don't see your complaints on the site, What's up guys? I am the only person that filed a complaint about this issue (Under electrical unknown) all i see is about spokes breaking and the faulty light harness!! and some just shrugged it off and now own the Generation 2 or another brand and passed the issue to another buyer VIA private sale or a trade in!

It takes five minutes of your time and may get this problem resolved.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
I filed my complaint and have no idea why it wouldn't be registered.
 

AVGeek

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JoshMundy said:
Thats right, there is a different mapping for the ecu when clutch lever is pulled in. But wouldnt a different ECU have corrected an issue with the mapping when pulled in?
It may not be the issue with the mapping itself, but rather how the ECU is reacting to a bad input, if it does turn out to be bad wiring from the clutch to the ECU.
 

Checkswrecks

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AVGeek said:
It may not be the issue with the mapping itself, but rather how the ECU is reacting to a bad input, if it does turn out to be bad wiring from the clutch to the ECU.

Right. I recently was dealing with what should have been a simple case of the input of a thermal switch into a processor-based control system. These circuits basically keep a small amount of voltage on the circuit and then sort of compare two parallel circuits. If there is some impedance (not just open versus closed) then the processor can be fooled to think the switch is in the wrong state.
 

JoshMundy

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AVGeek said:
It may not be the issue with the mapping itself, but rather how the ECU is reacting to a bad input, if it does turn out to be bad wiring from the clutch to the ECU.
Checkswrecks said:
Right. I recently was dealing with what should have been a simple case of the input of a thermal switch into a processor-based control system. These circuits basically keep a small amount of voltage on the circuit and then sort of compare two parallel circuits. If there is some impedance (not just open versus closed) then the processor can be fooled to think the switch is in the wrong state.
ok i see what you are saying. Well i guess if dealer cannot get it figured out I can try that
 

JoshMundy

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Ramseybella said:
Hope you catch that ghost seriously am on edge for weeks. ::010::
Thanks. Still no word back from dealer, but hopefully that means they have seen the intermittent issue also and are stumped as well / trying to figure it out with yamaha.
 

911guy

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I am also frustrated watching this. I dealt with this for over a year. I now have clocked over 2000 miles since Yamaha replaced my wiring harness without a hiccup. I do not understand how so many people have had the same issue and Yamaha or the dealer keep acting like this is something they have never seen and cant figure out. It is either incompetence or somebody is hiding something.
 

Ramseybella

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911guy said:
I am also frustrated watching this. I dealt with this for over a year. I now have clocked over 2000 miles since Yamaha replaced my wiring harness without a hiccup. I do not understand how so many people have had the same issue and Yamaha or the dealer keep acting like this is something they have never seen and cant figure out. It is either incompetence or somebody is hiding something.
They are waiting for it to go away by selling it off or natural death from high mileage..
After my little chat with Yamaha U.S.A. it's clear they have no intentions to pursue this in my opinion dangerous issue. ::022:: ::007::
We need more owners to harass them to death file a complaint to the highway safety.
I would like to have a head count from all you that is experiencing this problem.

If you still own your Tenere or don't but still have the VIN# and had these problems file a complaint please it's easy and five minutes.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

Yamaha Motor Corporation, USA ::024::
6555 Katella Avenue
Customer Relations
(800) 962-7926
 

JoshMundy

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911guy said:
I am also frustrated watching this. I dealt with this for over a year. I now have clocked over 2000 miles since Yamaha replaced my wiring harness without a hiccup. I do not understand how so many people have had the same issue and Yamaha or the dealer keep acting like this is something they have never seen and cant figure out. It is either incompetence or somebody is hiding something.
Still no word from dealer, but hoping that means they are still seeing an issue. Ya im hoping its something like the wiring harness and yamaha will step up and take care of it. Im pretty brand loyal (20+ yamahas in 10 years, almost all new) but this could make me look elsewhere for my next bike if Yamaha will not take care of me. Technically, they do not have to, bike is out of warranty, but really this issue seems bizarre.
 

Cycledude

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Thankfully I have not had this issue but if I did I for sure would be filing the complaint with NHTSA that Ramseybella mentioned earlier, it should help all early Tenere owners that are suffering with this issue and force Yamaha to put more effort into figuring out the real issue instead of just wasting everyone's time and money.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
 

JoshMundy

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Cycledude said:
Thankfully I have not had this issue but if I did I for sure would be filing the complaint with NHTSA that Ramseybella mentioned earlier, it should help all early Tenere owners that are suffering with this issue and force Yamaha to put more effort into figuring out the real issue instead of just wasting everyone's time and money.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
I have turned in my complaint when this first happened
 

Philip12345

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Try this,
Remove the rubber seal from the wiring harness plug that connects to the air box, this let's the plug sit better I then sprayed the pug with WD40, I also disconnected the plugs on the TB and sprayed them with WD40.
I did over 3000 miles ago with no more problems, I have now sold the bike it was gen 1.

Phil
 

JoshMundy

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Richland WA
Dealer just called and said bike is ready. They had an actual from Yamaha Tech in visiting shop and he worked on bike with them and said it sounds like a sticky clutch switch. They said they have cleaned the switch and they have ridden it 40 miles no issues. They however did still want to charge me for the ecu they replaced, as there were issues from my original they were saying. I told them no, they havent ruled out my ecu is bad because since finding the "issue" they have not tried with my old ecu to make sure that it really was the problem, which i strongly do not think it is.


Checkswrecks said:
Try shorting the clutch wires beneath the left hand grip and see if it kills the problem. This is a rouble-shooting step and realize that this will create hazards that include being able to start with the clutch engaged and that the cruise will not be de-actiavted by pulling the clutch. If it does not, follow the wires to the connector near the ECU and short them there. About 14% of electrical issues are in connectors and so see if one of yours has an intermittent connection.
If it really is the clutch switch, you sir called it
 

Ramseybella

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If that ain't some lame shit? ::007::
Yesterday and the day before bike went mad hatter again, rev. stall rpm's bouncing just sitting at idle.
My next question any of you folks experience an extreme raw fuel odor when you park the bike in the garage after this happens.
I have noticed this a few times and also noticed this odor when it didn't give me a hard time the next day i took the bike out it would give me a bad day.
And all my fuel lines are good and vent lines are open.
 
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