Since I am bored, sitting at home nursing a hip replacement, I'll consolidate all the information from the pervious posts to make your MCCT replacement go smoothly.
First, there is no guarantee that your cam chain will not jump teeth on the cams when you release the old tensioner. Some, like myself, have done it without a problem, and some have not. It all depends on the position of the cams, when the old tensioner is removed, but there has been no mention by previous posters of what that position actually is, so it is best to get a tie wrap and "clamp" the chain together where you can get to it with the clutch cover off, so that it is always under tension even with the tensioner removed.
Second, I'll go out on a limb and say a clutch cover gasket is not necessary. Sure, it doesn't hurt to get a new one, but I've had 4 different clutch covers off and 2 more than once, and have yet to need to replace one. The cover comes off cleanly, either with or without the gasket attached to it (you'd think I could remember which side it adheres to with all that I have removed, but for the life of me, I can't, LOL) and not one has ever leaked oil after re-assembly. I still have the first gasket I bought but never used sitting around somewhere. Regardless, that cover only takes 5 minutes to remove if it ever did start leaking.
Third, A good rule of thumb for chain tension is how I did it back in the day, when cam chain tensioners were "semi-manual". In the good old days (well, the '70's anyway) tensioners had a spring in them that pushed a plunger rod against the cam chain guide. That rod was locked in place by a bolt and jamb nut that screwed through the tensioner at a right angle to it. When the chain started to get loose and the engine became noisier, you would loosen the jamb nut and back off the bolt that held the plunger in place. The spring tension would then force the plunger against the guide to tighten the chain back up. Now, here's the important part. In order to have the chain slack in the best position for the plunger to do its best job, you would put a wrench on the nut on the end of the crankshaft and put turning pressure, to the point that it would just start to turn the crankshaft as you would tighten the jam bolt to the plunger, effectively, giving you the most slack in the chain, where the plunger was.
After I installed the new MCCT and initially snugged up the bolt/plunger before removing the tie wrap holding the cam chain tight, I would duplicate the procedure above, and, with turning pressure on the crankshaft, I would HAND TIGHTEN the bolt/plunger on your new MCCT until it came to a stop, and then tighten the jamb nut.
Hope this helps you, because in this case, other than bolt torque, the manual would be useless.