Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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Checkswrecks said:
We've had more than a couple of people check the valves and then get a couple of wiring connectors mixed up, resulting in no-start.
Yup, BTDT the connectors for the coils and the throttle bodies are identical. Easy to do. Wish Yamaha had used different shaped, or at least different colored connectors to make this either impossible or less likely. If you've swapped a couple of connectors there will be a diagnostic code however.
 

Pterodactyl

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Realizing my own limited cognitive capacity, I numbered each coil and also put the same number on its associated connector; used a silver Sharpie. I also lettered both sides of all the other connectors on the throttle bodies and in the work area. Made putting things back together much easier.
 

SilverBullet

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First time pulling things apart, color code and number your wires with a permanent solution. Subsequent valve checks or other maintenance you'll be set for life. Coils one color, 1-4; injectors another color 1-4; etc. etc.



_
 

Scrogs10

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dawlish
The number markers are a good idea.

I have what may be a stupid question. Do the throttle butterflies open when the throttle is opened with out the engine running ?

I haven't got much experience with Fi bikes. :)
 

Pterodactyl

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Scrogs10 said:
The number markers are a good idea.

I have what may be a stupid question. Do the throttle butterflies open when the throttle is opened with out the engine running ?

I haven't got much experience with Fi bikes. :)
No, they are controlled by an actuator, voodoo and arcane Indian lore.
 

Scrogs10

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Thanks for quick response.
I have backed off the tensioner a few turns and the bike now turns over faster and really sounds like it wants to go but will not run.
I spoke to a local bike mechanic and he suggested taking it in to Yamaha dealers to have the codes read. I will look into that tomorrow. £££££
 

Pterodactyl

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You should be able to see fault codes and diagnostic codes on your dash. Do you have a Service Manual? If not, then one could be very helpful to you now.
 

jaeger22

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I would for sure try an eliminate the classic hard start problem before taking it to a mechanic. Going to WOT should not hurt anything, But the key is with the hard start, the motor is flooded. Try to start it and then sniff the exhaust. If there is a strong fuel smell then there is a very good chance it is the hard start issue. Keep the battery charged and WOT and it should start. Eventually , , ,
Good luck!
 

Scrogs10

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I have good news. My bike is now running.

I still don't know the cause of my original frustration but I do know one of the problems I caused.
As someone mentioned Yamaha use the same connectors on the same loom. What I had actually done was swap the 4th coil connector with the throttle position sensor. I thought is was odd it had a yellow band on it and the coil connect has a white band on it. I didn't realize my mistake until I was checking the wiring diagram and noticed the wrong colours on my coil.
When I had pulled the loom back in through the frame rails I had left the coil connection outside and so plugged everything into where it fitted. And as the other connector wasn't visible I didn't look for somewhere to put it .

So all I actually changed was the tension of the cam chain. So if that stopped the bike starting or it was a case of "Hard Start" as I did pull the fuse and tried WOT I can't honestly say.

So yes I'm a muppet but I'm now a happy muppet.

Thanks for help guys.

Simon
 

BaldKnob

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You've dodged a HUGE bullet, Scrogs. I know that feeling and it feels good to finally hear it fire and that you're not a complete muppet. With this engine, I would secure the camchain to the cam gears prior to releasing the tensioner. It's difficult to find a phase when the valvetrain isn't under tension and any slack in the chain may result in lost timing. Glad you got yours sorted.
 

Checkswrecks

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SilverBullet said:
First time pulling things apart, color code and number your wires with a permanent solution. Subsequent valve checks or other maintenance you'll be set for life. Coils one color, 1-4; injectors another color 1-4; etc. etc.

Congrats Scrogs


Like Silver Bullet wrote, I use tiptoes when taking connectors apart. You can get them in just about any electronics or computer supply store and even a lot of Home Depots and Lowes.
 

WJBertrand

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Scrogs10 said:
I have good news. My bike is now running.

I still don't know the cause of my original frustration but I do know one of the problems I caused.
As someone mentioned Yamaha use the same connectors on the same loom. What I had actually done was swap the 4th coil connector with the throttle position sensor. I thought is was odd it had a yellow band on it and the coil connect has a white band on it. I didn't realize my mistake until I was checking the wiring diagram and noticed the wrong colours on my coil.
When I had pulled the loom back in through the frame rails I had left the coil connection outside and so plugged everything into where it fitted. And as the other connector wasn't visible I didn't look for somewhere to put it .

So yes I'm a muppet but I'm now a happy muppet.

Thanks for help guys.

Simon
I can relate as I did exactly the same error and resulted in a no start and and 060 error. Glad you got it figure out and there was no cam timing issue. I had numbered and color marked everything with a paint pen and then got lazy or tired and ignored my own marks.
 

HeliMoto

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Jan 5, 2015
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Sault Ste Marie,On.Canada
FYI ALERT FOR GRAVES Cam chain Tensioners !

I just received my Graves cam chain tensioner and noticed that the lock nut would not bottom down against the tensioner body.
I emailed Graves tech support and promptly received this reply, please see the copy of the emails below .

Hi
I recently purchased one of your cam chain tensioner Part #: CMY-13R1-PCT from Revzilla to be installed in my 2014 Yamaha SuperTenere.
Many other SuperTenere owners on Yamahasupertenere.com have installed this unit on their bikes, haven't heard of any issues there.
The o-ring supplied with this unit does not compress enough to allow the locking nut to bottom out onto the tensioner body, after torquing the nut down, there remains .004 in. space under the nut, either the o-ring section thickness is too large or the machined relief in the tensioner body is insufficient . I substituted a 3/8" ID x 1/16" section O-ring and seems to fit much better, allowing o-ring compression and the nut bottoming to the tensioner body.The supplied O-ring appears to be about 11/32" ID and about 1/13" section . Can you give me an explanation of these findings ?
Thank you,
Rod Mitchell

Good afternoon Mr. Mitchell,
Thank you for your feedback. We are constantly improving our products based off customer input and ongoing R&D. I have looked into our CMY-13R1-PCT product line. Here is what I found.
The correct O-ring is as you stated 3/8 ID X 1/16 “ .
All remaining kits are correct( We must have received a bad O-ring in the last batch)
I can send you a replacement O-ring at no charge if you would like.
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Jim (JJ) Matter
Production / Operations Manager
Graves Motorsports
 

HeliMoto

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If you have a Graves cct, be sure you have the correct o-ring, if the o-ring is the incorrect one that is too thick, the lock nut will not bottom out to the cct body and potentially come loose.
 

ace50

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Wow, even I'm happy you dodged a bullet on that one. ::015::

No one wants to go through what could have been your initial inclining was.







Although I just realized you posted that back on January 31
 

Velvet

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I know that this is an old thread but I'm glad that I searched and found it. I just finished my valve check last night on my '14 and I cannot get the CCT to reset. I have tried every method that I could find on this forum as well as the factory service manual to no avail. The rod /plunger just won't retract.

I will be ordering a Graves MCCT today so I can put this factory CCT nonsense behind me.
 

chris_d

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Covington GA
Velvet said:
I know that this is an old thread but I'm glad that I searched and found it. I just finished my valve check last night on my '14 and I cannot get the CCT to reset. I have tried every method that I could find on this forum as well as the factory service manual to no avail. The rod /plunger just won't retract.

I will be ordering a Graves MCCT today so I can put this factory CCT nonsense behind me.
Well I'm in the exact same situation with my 2013. I have spent over 3 hours attempting to get this brand new 2014 CCT plunger back to the retracted position. For some reason this CCT came new with tensioner deployed. :mad:

Anyway the hell with YES warranty I'm going to buy the Graves manual CCT because I'm done messing with this Yamaha's POS CCT.
 

Old Scratch

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Manual chain tension is the way to go ( referring to the primary drive chain. dont get me started on Twin Cam chain tensioners)...ask anybody that rides a Harley :)
 
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