Instantly 15 more free HP

[Maxified]

All these posts about installing a mini-fuse on the clutch switch for "more power" do intrigue me. More power may lead to more speed which may require more braking force. Can I install a fuse on the brake switch and perhaps do some stoppies? I was thinking a fuse of a max of 5 amps or so, not like 30 amps, because I don't want to flip over. ::025::

OK, seriously, I shorted the switch today and will go play in traffic tomorrow. ???

 

[hANNAbONE]

OK, seriously, I shorted the switch today and will go play in traffic tomorrow. ???

....and you will have fun, my friend....

 

[justbob]

OK I had to try it too, my butt dyno likes it. Noticable improvement in the throttle snap at lower RPM's and no lean dip just off idle.
One negative I found with it is that it makes my electronic cruise control jerky or more abrupt when rolling on and off throttle.
I like it but will put a switch in so that I can switch back to regain the smooth electronic cruise control operation.


boB

 

[mbabc]

I had to try this too guys. Took a 15amp mini fuse and rode up to the store the long way. My unscientific observation is much like everyone elses, not more power, just comes on smoother and quicker. I'd call it "super sport". Took the fuse out and it's in the tank bag to await more conclusive info. Like the switch idea but actually I'm pretty happy (coming from a KLR) with plain old "sport".

 

[cbrunsw]

Maybe it eliminates the power restriction in the first three gears? Or could it be to improve starting. Just a thought.

 

[Rasher]

Looking at all the Dyno charts I have come across the issue is mainly low-gear restrictions, 1st - 3rd gears have a fair deficit on peak power, but as the gearing is quite low I guess this is hidden, but the low down power, especially 1st - 2nd is very limited.

I am speaking to a UK based tuner about developing a flash, this would be a custom map with the fly timings, ignition timings and fuel maps custom mapped individually for each gear with the bike on a dyno - i.e. perfect setup for each bike.

I asked about the clutch and was told:-

Shorting the clutch make the ecu use the clutch in fly by wire map . But it stays on that map perminantly not using the ecus potential.....


I'm looking forward to doing the tenere. But unlike the others I will remove the restrictions and create perfect fuel maps . It's not in my nature to do half a job.

You see if you make the bike use a different fly by wire per gear the fuel map per gear will then become v wrong.

This mod is obviously not going to be as good as a Flash and the bike will use the same map for every gear, and as engines behave differently under different gearings (i.e. they do not spin up anywhere near as fast in top as they do in first) the Re-Flashes (if done properly) should be quite superior.

The flashes are all very generic whereas adding a PC-V or getting a custom flash done will give the best results.

My man has yet to do a Tenere so until he is ready to go I will use the clutch mod with a switch, I have also offered up my bike as the development mule.

 

[GrahamD]

Shorting the clutch make the ecu use the clutch in fly by wire map . But it stays on that map perminantly not using the ecus potential.....

Now we have a bunch of pluggers remorse.

My man has yet to do a Tenere so until he is ready to go I will use the clutch mod with a switch, I have also offered up my bike as the development mule.

::012:: ::008::

 

[Uncle Dave]

Ok, for all the Aussies out there I have run the bike with the clutch mod and can 100% attest that it does not give it more power. ::009::
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But, like others have posted it now gives a very linear throttle response which in turn makes it very touchy in low gears. I can now wheel spin (TC on) / stand (TC off) in second gear roll-ons! Haha

No noticable difference between Sport and Touring modes.

Certainly makes the bike feel lively though! ::26::

 

[GrahamD]

Ok, for all the Aussies out there I have run the bike with the clutch mod and can 100% attest that it does not give it more power. ::009::
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But, like others have posted it now gives a very linear throttle response which in turn makes it very touchy in low gears. I can now wheel spin (TC on) / stand (TC off) in second gear roll-ons! Haha

No noticable difference between Sport and Touring modes.

Certainly makes the bike feel lively though! ::26::

Thanks for that. What about fuel economy? Any clues?

 

[Uncle Dave]

Fuel economy? Sorry didn't take any notice...

I'll have a look on my next big ride. ::26::

 

[CW-Wilf]

After much deliberation and worry that I would be the one to try it and "poof" some circuit board would melt, I did it anyway. I had gotten used to giving the throttle a priming blip or two on take off and even riding the clutch when under a two up load so as not to stall. Never felt comfortable that I could dart out into heavy traffic with confidence with the stock setup. So after inserting the mini fuse and getting ready to go I followed my same routine of over throttled and did I get a big surprise. I shot forward with unexpected power and the off idle hesitation is gone. Did not get the opportunity for a long test yet and I dont care if it is faster in the higher gears if it cures the off idle stumble I'm happy. That and no fried circuitry ::012::
A switch may be in order. Two up an in sport mode my wife and I keep banging heads.

 

[Epping]

Psst...got bad news. I ride a black on now and my wife a blue one. Just got off her bike 10 minutes ago. Without a doubt the blue is way faster and smoother than the black.

Of course the fact her bike has 7K more miles on it probably accounts for all that difference.

Still have to try out this jumper thing. I stuck a fuse in the tank bag and should get a chance over the next 3 days while I'm out riding with the other S10 guys in West Virginia.

My blue bike is also fast ::025:: Seriously tho, I am still astounded with the difference between now at 11K Km and when I first rode it. Like 25% more power. Sure has freed up. I remember not being very impressed with the difference between T & S. Now they're worlds apart. I have always had the Leo Vince muffler.

 

[RED CAT]

Rode 1500kms with the Clutch Mod/ Fuse in place. Same gas milage but more seat of the pants snap and smoother acceleration. On 1st and 2nd gear trail riding there definitely is more snatchiness. Too much actually so I believe some kind of swtch is in order. ON for most riding and OFF for Trail Riding. ::001::

 

[SisuTen]

Psst...got bad news. I ride a black on now and my wife a blue one. Just got off her bike 10 minutes ago. Without a doubt the blue is way faster and smoother than the black.

Of course the fact her bike has 7K more miles on it probably accounts for all that difference.

Still have to try out this jumper thing. I stuck a fuse in the tank bag and should get a chance over the next 3 days while I'm out riding with the other S10 guys in West Virginia.

Traitor..............

 

[SisuTen]

Traitor.............. All thought does not require expression. ::025:: ::025::

 

[roy]

I ran the jumper for a week an concluded yes the bike sprinted better but in my case it acted up once hot and I had several spit backs through the throttle bodies while simply blipping the throttle at stop lights. Not good so I went back to stock and to be honest the best setup on a stock bike is traction control OFF and in sport. There is not a noticeable stumble at least on my bike in that configuration. in TCs2 or 1 my blue pig almost dies off idle without a good amount of clutch. My uneducated unscientific conclusion is there is absolutely nothing wrong with this pig except the traction control (which I HATE on any motorcycle) is causing the stumble off idle. Don't care to hear I've ecu flashed and it's better. Thats BS all that's been done is more fuel has been dumped and it's masking the obvious. Face it this is one weird ass mapped motorcycle IMO and I've dealt with a lot of suzukis best GSXR's and never had all these crazy hickups.

BTW the R1 is a utter $12k pos stock and it takes mega bucks to even get it to even see a GSXR's taillights and we won't even mention what the BMW S1000 does to it.

In a nit shell yamaha builds a nice bike but somewhere along the lines the mapping ecu group had lost touch with reality and married a EPA USA tree hugger.

 

[Maxified]

...to be honest the best setup on a stock bike is traction control OFF and in sport...

::008::

 

[hANNAbONE]

::008::

...I tend to agree...however, i do have the fuse mod in place and am liking it a lot.

I must have one of the good ones too (#227) and it is totally stock.

I don't think I'm gonna mess with it as it's doing everything I've asked it to do.

 

[Firefight911]

I've been thinking about this "mod" for a while and here are my highly scientific, prolific, and you get what you pay for thoughts on what it does, why it exists, etc.;

I don't believe this is a hidden software engineer program workaround.

I believe this exists out of necessity due to the world we live in where lean is clean, or something like that. Emissions, emissions, emissions,.........

If anyone here has spent any amount of time tuning motors with the old carb set up and remembers what happens when the bike is lean jetted you will have an idea as to why this, IMO, exists. Lean conditions cause the rpms to "hang." This makes shifts balky at best.

So, if the clutch switch signals the ECU to go "rich" when engaged the shift points will have a good response from the motor during shifts.

You would think that one could tell a significant difference during neutral, non moving conditions when the clutch switch is engaged but I would almost bet that the algorithm requires an input from the speed sensor to initiate the "rich" condition.

The bit where the bike falls on itself sometimes just after take off and during clutch engagement? What if it is caused by the bike seeing movement and a clutch switch activated initially (during friction zone) so you are getting the "rich" condition. As the clutch lever is let out the switch disengages and then the ECU returns to the lean map. At that moment the bike would fall on itself and then pick back up under the new "lean" condition and stock mapping.

These are my thoughts on the matter. Thoughts, ideas, etc.?

 

[GrahamD]

Well I can't really say much except..it doesn't sound too far from reality.

I have another theory..

After 6-12 month in a relationship, it's the little things that start annoying you. Things you never really noticed at first become big issues. These things, in your mind, would never happen with that other bike. Until of course you swap bikes and then find that...

It's the little things that start annoying you.....


So we live in a world where regulations are proposed, dates are set and then moved, lobbyists are deployed, regulations are watered down, changed.

As a manufacturer you have to decide whether you design for proposed laws or current laws, with a big redesign just around the corner.

So emissions are tight, injection systems have to be designed for test cycles, then parameters outside the test cycles made as good as possible.

I am sure that all engineers would just like to make a good engine, but then the I guess 50% of the development is then spent trying to get them past emission regs.

Then I suppose at some point you have to decide whether you make a bike that works for a variety of conditions the best it can OR design it with all the right bits but in reality just to feel good on a 20 minute test ride.

Found this when reading the mega squirt manual. (No I am not megasquirting my S10).

There are a number of general operating conditions that apply to most automotive applications. We list some below, with some tuning considerations for spark, fuel, and air (and the relevant parameters.

Cranking Very Rich Low advance (minimize kick-back)
Idle Might need to be rich or lean, depending on many factors Depends on emissions requirements, typically 5° BTDC to 15° BTDC
Acceleration Rich Advance increasing up to ~2500 to 3500 rpm
WOT (wide open throttle) Rich (12:1 to 13:1) Advance depends on fuel, combustion characteristics, etc.

So with the basic parameters in mind the engine may have to go from lean to rich. The engine also has just 2 600cc pulses spaced 90Deg apart before a big pause. So I can see that it could be a bit of a challenge without some form of throttle management, to get that perfect. (even with)