How to gain access to the Diagnostic Mode CO adjustment

[tomatocity]

What would be the difference if you used a larger or smaller ID tubing (equal each side)?

 

[barts]

You want the same diameter and length; otherwise the 'average' reading will be shifted towards one of the cylinders. The best way to do this is a restrictor orifice near the bike connections and a few cubic inches of volume afterward; this will damp out that meter almost completely.

- Bart

 

[Toxic Mark]

Forgive me if this has already been covered, but is there any point to adjusting the CO values if you already have a re-flashed ECU?

 

[Reveille]

No. The reflash should address any fueling issues. I returned my CO settings to baseline after I reflashed mine with the flash tune software.

 

[Grndlb]

Has anyone figured out how to access CO mode on the 2014 yet?

 

[sail2xxs]

Has anyone figured out how to access CO mode on the 2014 yet?

::026::

 

[craigd]

::026::

I just checked my 2014 and there is no lime green wire at the tip over sensor.

Is there anyone on the Front Range with a pre-2014 repair manual that I could look at to try and determine the origin of the lime green wire?

Thanks,
Craig

 

[tannere]

so i just have a few questions here before i start grounding wires and potentially frying something vital. first of all, i do not have the service manual. plan to get it but hoping to make the co adjustment without it for now. i have already performed the airscrew adjustment and synchronized the t/bs. have some questions before i attempt the co adjustment. my bike has the factory panniers and the upper support bracket uses a tamper proof torx bolt to hold it on. does anyone know what size it is? cannot remove the carrier thats under the rear seat until this bracket is removed. also, what would be a problem with tapping into the mint green wire further forward under the front seat? i assume these wires pass in that direction and if a small slit was made carefully, then i would not need to remove the rear carrier. when the wire is grounded, i am assuming that the display will change and different modes will be available. how do i know which mode is for co? whats the button procedure for changing the co setting at that point? i apologize for all the questions and hope that im not a complete idiot here. just rather be safe then sorry. thank you for any help in advance!

 

[Don in Lodi]

so i just have a few questions here before i start grounding wires and potentially frying something vital. first of all, i do not have the service manual. plan to get it but hoping to make the co adjustment without it for now. i have already performed the airscrew adjustment and synchronized the t/bs. have some questions before i attempt the co adjustment. my bike has the factory panniers and the upper support bracket uses a tamper proof torx bolt to hold it on. does anyone know what size it is? cannot remove the carrier thats under the rear seat until this bracket is removed. also, what would be a problem with tapping into the mint green wire further forward under the front seat? i assume these wires pass in that direction and if a small slit was made carefully, then i would not need to remove the rear carrier. when the wire is grounded, i am assuming that the display will change and different modes will be available. how do i know which mode is for co? whats the button procedure for changing the co setting at that point? i apologize for all the questions and hope that im not a complete idiot here. just rather be safe then sorry. thank you for any help in advance!

The images for what the dash looks like when setting things is several pages deeper into this thread. Also, be sure of your year, it turns out, so far, that this only works on the 12-13 models. The 14 and up don't have that wire.

 

[Big Mac 14]

First time posting, but trust me you, I have been scrolling through and reading alot. Here's the story. Traded in the trusty Vstrom 650 for a well accessorized 2012 S10 that had 5k on the clock. Love the bike thus far (put 4k on it) but didn't care for the fueling at low rpm and leaving from a dead stop. Found this thread and took action. I started with a +6 CO setting and the difference was noticeable. Smoother take off and even able to cruise in the 2000-3000rpm range with noticeable smoothness that was not there before. After riding with this setting for one week, I clicked it up to a +12 and have ran it another week with even a bit more of a stronger/smoother low end run quality, stable idle and a perceptable engine temperature drop while cruising (stays in the 165-173 range) consistantly. Still need to have the throttle bodies synched (may do it myself), but not before I try another bump in the CO setting..Thanks for the great info all have shared ::021::

 

[simmons1]

First time posting, but trust me you, I have been scrolling through and reading alot. Here's the story. Traded in the trusty Vstrom 650 for a well accessorized 2012 S10 that had 5k on the clock. Love the bike thus far (put 4k on it) but didn't care for the fueling at low rpm and leaving from a dead stop. Found this thread and took action. I started with a +6 CO setting and the difference was noticeable. Smoother take off and even able to cruise in the 2000-3000rpm range with noticeable smoothness that was not there before. After riding with this setting for one week, I clicked it up to a +12 and have ran it another week with even a bit more of a stronger/smoother low end run quality, stable idle and a perceptable engine temperature drop while cruising (stays in the 165-173 range) consistantly. Still need to have the throttle bodies synched (may do it myself), but not before I try another bump in the CO setting..Thanks for the great info all have shared ::021::

There is some info somewhere in this forum that + 20 seems to work the best.

 

[Big Mac 14]

I have seen that post, and several talking about the +6, so I started small and will work my way up in increments of 6..Thus far I have been very pleased with the changes and its hideous that the EPA forces them to be that lean...

 

[Checkswrecks]

Welcome aboard and glad this helped. The throttle body sync can make a big difference if it is out.

 

[Big Mac 14]

Welcome aboard and glad this helped. The throttle body sync can make a big difference if it is out.

Thanks. I will say that as much as im impressed with my newfound smoothness, Im also confident the the K60 Scouts I had spooned on are less than impressed with my heavy hand riding style..

 

[Oliv]

Has anyone figured out how to access CO mode on the 2014 yet?

Might this be an answer to the question ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsWxtF_BqJk

 

[Big Mac 14]

Just an update. Over the weekend I rolled 9k on the odo, so it was time for fresh oil, rear end oil, and since I was at it, I took the CO adjustment from a +12 to a +20. not only did this make the bike crazy easy to lug along in too tall of a gear, but the nasty knocking sound I was getting around 3500rpm when under full throttle acceleration has completely disappeared. I was getting nervous about the knocking as it sounded bad and had forced me to adapt my riding style to 4000rpm and above. With the improved run quality of the +20 CO2 setting, I believe that the true potential of the 1200 twin has been unlocked to the best of its ability in otherwise stock trim. If youve got a USA bike thats been choked by EPA standards, its worth the few minutes of time to get it running this smoothly.. ^-^

 

[ace50]

Thanks, will try it this week! ::015::

 

[Bug Dr.]

I'm at +8 and still have some popping under engine breaking and still feel the vibs at 3500 rpm. I was going to take it up to +12 but thanks to Big Mac I think I'm going up to +20. I have left the ground wire under the cover to make it easy to adjust in the future. Will do it today and try it in the morning.

I did the 3/4 turn on the air screw before I synched the TBs with a Harmonizer and that seemed to help but not as much as adjusting the CO IMO.
Mike

 

[ace50]

I'm gonna adjust the CO #'s but I'm gonna close the air screws. (I'll check synch though) I never felt a change with them anyway.
Really doesn't make sense that they would do anything but synch TB's.

 

[Big Mac 14]

The +20 is really no different than installing a jet kit in the older carb motorcycles. Due to the EPA restrictions, the modern day EFI bike has been severly limited on how much fuel it is getting at partial throttle settings. I am even noticing a change in the tone of engine when cruising along at slow speeds, and again today I was able to leave a stop sign without applying any throttle and just lightly slipping the clutch. This could not be done with the stock CO settings, and the bike just runs along smoothly as can be now. I have no doubt that synchronized throttle bodies is helpful, but having the proper amount of fuel is also key in stabilizing the engine prior to synchronization...All of this IMO...(for what its worth)