HIDs? Anyone?
- Thread starter avc8130
- Start date
2thpower
New Member
Does the high/low switch on the handlebar get rendered useless with this set-up, or does the H7 have inhearant high/low capability?~TABASCO~ said:
Does anyone have pics of their install? It sounds like the safest bet is to take off the farings?
Do a search under my username. I've posted pics of my install.2thpower said:
The stock High/Low remains active. The H7 uses a shutter, so it works just fine with the HID.
I didn't remove the fairings for the install. Just the windscreen and the little black plastic trim behind the gauges. I think I had to remove the headlight assembly.
ac
2thpower
New Member
Thanks for the pics.
How did the 55w install ever turn out? You were able to fit everything?
I assume that the HID Harness, Error Eliminator, and Adaptor cables are not necessary for this isntall?
I'm going to try it out over the weekend.
How did the 55w install ever turn out? You were able to fit everything?
I assume that the HID Harness, Error Eliminator, and Adaptor cables are not necessary for this isntall?
I'm going to try it out over the weekend.
greg the pole
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people
great post,
so a question to all the guys running HID kits,
why 35 vs 55 watt?
The tenere needs the single bulb, not the dual (high/low application)
I'm asking because there can never be enough light on a bike
so a question to all the guys running HID kits,
why 35 vs 55 watt?
The tenere needs the single bulb, not the dual (high/low application)
I'm asking because there can never be enough light on a bike
2thpower
New Member
I agree with you. I'd like to have the 55w. The DDM tuning website says that the 55w bulbs put out 40% more light, which i'd love to have in the New Mexico desert.greg the pole said:
I want to see from someone else's set-up first, however, that it is feasable, and if the HID Harness, Error Eliminator, and Adaptor cables are necessary/
greg the pole
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people
::026::2thpower said:
Mikef5000
New Member
Alright!
HID's work fantastic on the Tenere thanks to the projector lenses and the mechanical high beam shutter.
If you want to go with the simple route, get 35 watt HID's, and you can plug them right into the factory headlight bulb plug. Drill the holes in the back of the bulb covers, and either zip tie the ballasts to each side of the fairing near the forks, or jam them up behind the windshield (and plastic cover) and you're done. 35 Watt HID's are a vast improvement over the factory headlights (which aren't bad to begin with), and they'll go from the OEM yellowish light, to the HID white or blue.
A more complex install involves adding a relay to the system, but this allows you to safely go with the 55 watt HID's, which are a substantial improvement over the 35 watt HIDs, and a night and day difference over the oem halogen. Same idea with the physical install, but there's a little more to wiring in a relay:
Terminal 30 goes to the battery, with a 10 or 15 amp fuse in line.
Terminal 85 goes to a ground.
Terminal 86 goes to the factory headlight positive wire.
Terminal 87 goes to the 2 red wires coming from the HID Ballasts.
Ground the 2 black wires coming from the HID Ballasts.
I mounted my ballasts inside the fairing near where the winglets mount. They are hidden when sitting on the bike, or looking at it from either side. There is one ballast on each side.
Some final information:
The factory low beam cutoff is unchanged with these bulbs, so those complaining about not being able to see through turns (because the cutoff isn't allow light to shine 'up' when leaned over) won't be satisfied.
4500k color temperature is clear white. The higher the color temperature, the more paint is applied to the bulb, so the more blue it will look, and the less lumen output they will provide. 4500k is the whitest and brightest.
Whether you're running 35w directly off the factory plug, or 55w through a relay, power is always available at the factory plugs, so you can always put a regular H7 bulb back in.
HID's work fantastic on the Tenere thanks to the projector lenses and the mechanical high beam shutter.
If you want to go with the simple route, get 35 watt HID's, and you can plug them right into the factory headlight bulb plug. Drill the holes in the back of the bulb covers, and either zip tie the ballasts to each side of the fairing near the forks, or jam them up behind the windshield (and plastic cover) and you're done. 35 Watt HID's are a vast improvement over the factory headlights (which aren't bad to begin with), and they'll go from the OEM yellowish light, to the HID white or blue.
A more complex install involves adding a relay to the system, but this allows you to safely go with the 55 watt HID's, which are a substantial improvement over the 35 watt HIDs, and a night and day difference over the oem halogen. Same idea with the physical install, but there's a little more to wiring in a relay:
Terminal 30 goes to the battery, with a 10 or 15 amp fuse in line.
Terminal 85 goes to a ground.
Terminal 86 goes to the factory headlight positive wire.
Terminal 87 goes to the 2 red wires coming from the HID Ballasts.
Ground the 2 black wires coming from the HID Ballasts.
I mounted my ballasts inside the fairing near where the winglets mount. They are hidden when sitting on the bike, or looking at it from either side. There is one ballast on each side.
Some final information:
The factory low beam cutoff is unchanged with these bulbs, so those complaining about not being able to see through turns (because the cutoff isn't allow light to shine 'up' when leaned over) won't be satisfied.
4500k color temperature is clear white. The higher the color temperature, the more paint is applied to the bulb, so the more blue it will look, and the less lumen output they will provide. 4500k is the whitest and brightest.
Whether you're running 35w directly off the factory plug, or 55w through a relay, power is always available at the factory plugs, so you can always put a regular H7 bulb back in.
2thpower
New Member
I just talked to a guy at DDM tuning, and he said that there won't be any need for the harness when going with the 55w bulbs, that it should be plug and play. I'm thinking that's how I'm going to try it.
The easier, the better for me, solong as there aren't any quality issues.
The easier, the better for me, solong as there aren't any quality issues.
autoteach
New Member
is anyone seeing any signs of reflector bleaching? Also, units are available in most motorcycle supply (tuckerrocky.com) I dont know if the units they sell are smaller for motorcycle applications, but I am curious.
Mikef5000
New Member
I wouldn't use the ddm harness, but I've seen melted connectors several times in the past (on other bikes that shouldn't have needed the harness), so I highly recommend a relay with the 55w kits. If you don't want to do the relay, you're much safer with 35w.
I'm not sure how you would see any reflector bleaching, since the headlight lens isn't 'clear'.
I'm not sure how you would see any reflector bleaching, since the headlight lens isn't 'clear'.
hANNAbONE
...Patiently Waited...
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autoteach
New Member
HID's give off UV light. If you look up "HID lens bleaching" you can see what I am talking about.Mikef5000 said:
Mikef5000
New Member
avc8130 said:
Negative. When an HID is starting up it uses much more than the specified operating watts. DDM states right on their HID page "draws less than 6 amps at start up and 3.4 amps at normal operating temperature." for the 35 watt kit; that means it's almost double the specified wattage during start-up: 3.4 amps operating = ~40 watt. 6 amps starting = ~70 watts.
I know what you're talking about, but all the HID UV bleaching I've seen has effected the chrome paint within the light housing. Since this chrome paint is not visible within the S10's projector lenses, I think it'd be hard to see if it's being effected.
ITeach2Wheels
New Member
I just finished installing 35w DDM HID's in my headlights and another set in my driving lights. I'm very impressed!! I know many of you have said its a worthwhile mod.....but I never thought they would be this good.
I considered going with 55w, but I regularly got the "your brights are on" flash from oncoming drivers with the old bulbs. Now that I've ridden with the 35w's I can't imagine wanting more light!!
If you haven't tried HID's yet.... You won't be disappointed. ::018::
I considered going with 55w, but I regularly got the "your brights are on" flash from oncoming drivers with the old bulbs. Now that I've ridden with the 35w's I can't imagine wanting more light!!
If you haven't tried HID's yet.... You won't be disappointed. ::018::
Mikef5000
New Member
Just an FYI to anyone interested... DDM Tuning makes reputable kits, with lifetime warranties, and they're on sale for the holidays:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W
Not associated, but I use them and recommend their products.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W
Not associated, but I use them and recommend their products.
I have a pair of 35W DDM just waiting for winter mod's. Think I'll order an extra set of access covers so I can drill holes in those for the wires. That way it will be easier to go back to stock for inspections... and if a ballast craps out.Mikef5000 said:
Many cars have HIDs and LEDs, the ones that come from the factory with them are ok, but many of the others that are installed by their owners always blind me.
A guy I know install HIDs on his Suzuki 650DR, he told me that the reflector on his bike wasn't designed for HIDs, he has adjusted them a few times and feels that he's still blinding other drivers on low beams at night.
Our lights are different, I'm wondering how do HIDs perform on low beams (and high beams) compared to stock.
A guy I know install HIDs on his Suzuki 650DR, he told me that the reflector on his bike wasn't designed for HIDs, he has adjusted them a few times and feels that he's still blinding other drivers on low beams at night.
Our lights are different, I'm wondering how do HIDs perform on low beams (and high beams) compared to stock.