Handle Bar Vibration

Don in Lodi

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Ok, there's something similar. I get a harder vibration between 3800 and about 4300. Above about 4600 she's smooth as silk. 90 mph indicated is sweet. Smooth as glass, great air pocket, visor open, little bits of mechanical noise... to bad you can't do that very often around here without getting a performance award. ::005::
 

HoebSTer

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On the VSTrom, there was a way to take 3/8 rubber hose or something with a nut in the end and start screwing the bar end into it. As it would tighten it would compress the hose and get tight in the handlebar. It worked for a lot of guys who had switched over to the pro-taper bars. I may look into doing this. I think it should dampen some of the vibes through the rubber in the bar end. I just don't know if we can gt the ends tight enough to keep from loosening up.
 

stevepsd

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SisuTen said:
Never had tapered bars. Would they mitigate the harmonics of a straight bar?
Our bikes come with tapered bars already.

Granted they are not Scott's Pro-tapers or Renthal Fat-Bars.......so they probably could be improved on.

Tapered bars really made a difference on my XR600R...reduces vibes and rider fatigue.
 

markjenn

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As I understand it, the S10's bars are tapered and have the same basic exterior dimensions at ProTaper type bars, but are steel rather than alum.

It is generally thought that ProTaper type bars reduce vibes on dirt bikes over conventional non-tapered steel bars, but I don't know how much of this is the shape and how much is the material. I think we've already has some reports that installing ProTapers helps the vibes, but I always take reports like this with a bit of salt as vibration is subjective and varies tremendously from day-to-day based on things like weather and normal variations in engine tune. And there is always a natural tendency to think a mod has improved something, regardless of whether it actually did or not.

Certainly if you wanted to try alum tapered bars, they should bolt right up without having to mess around with perch adapters. But you may have to figure out a way to do expander plugs for the handguards and bar ends. Keep in mind that the ID of alum bars is not the same as the ID of steel bars - the alum bar has a thicker wall diameter. And you may need to drill the bars if you want keep the stock switch gear indexing (which I think is a good idea).

One other consideration is that alum bars are challenging for heated grips - alum has 4x the thermal conductivity of steel. I have had experiences where the same grips that were toasty on a bike with steel bars were anemic on a bike with alum bars.

The simplest and most cost effective handlebar vibe controls are typically different grips and heavier bar end weights. I don't see an application yet, but Throttlemeister has a heavy model of their throttle lock which adds a lot of weight vs. the stock bar end weights, so this is a good, albeit expensive, option and gives you an elegant throttle lock. Perhaps the FJR TM model fits the S10.

Heavy bar snakes or filling the bars with lead shot can help, but it adds a lot of weight up high on the bike. And if the bars have internal nut plates rather than expander plugs, this makes this a difficult modification. I've very skeptical if filling the bars with lightweight material (e.g., foam or caulk) does anything. You need mass to damp engine vibes.

Handlebar mods can get expensive and complicated. When I put ProTapers on my V-Strom I had to source lots of different parts to get the handlebar, perches, grips, heating elements, hand guards, throttle lock, expander plugs, etc. all to play together and it cost $600 before the day was done. And I had to spend $45 for a special drill bit to drill the handlebar to get the right ID for the throttle lock. Even with a drill press, this was difficult and tricky.

- Mark
 

s-flow

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I recommend to torque all bolts related to the front end to specified values, this could have been sloppy done by the dealer, it helped me a lot. Change grips to some gel grips, changes the character of the vibes, may suit you.
Thicker gloves works fine.

A more major change is a new exhaust with a tune, will improve the situation.

I am specially fond of the re-torque of bolts, seems quite important.
 

tomatocity

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ColoRider said:
If you mean for the bar end weights, yes.
Then it would be difficult to fill the handlebars with anything. Maybe trim the handlebars.
 

Don in Lodi

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There's still the 8mm hole to pour a liquid into, or fine enough buckshot, if you can still find lead shot.
 

thagua

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What I've done is installing the ROX risers with dampening plus the Kaoko cruise control and Throttle support, plus the Puppies but I'm investigating the possibility to install the SW Motech Shock Endurance bar ... has anyone done this? ... I know that Wasp made the modification very early on his bike.
Cheers,
Roberto
 

Yamaguy55

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I just sent an e-mail to Vibranator asking if and when their product would be available for Tenere owners, stating there is no doubt a ready market for their product if it does what it is said to do. With their 30 day money back guarantee, I can't see how you could go wrong.
The latest issue of CW, on page 62, covers their take on the product.

Looks like what we want, and when (if) they become available, I'm going to get a set.

I'll post here what their reply is. If I get a set, I'll report on that. I am aware of them, they do seem to have a well deserved good reputation.
I'll keep you posted.....
 

SisuTen

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japako said:
So you are saying you don't have the tight vibrations between 4 and 5 grand. I can't see clearly on the mirrors and can feel it. Maybe yours is running better than mine?
I'm almost embarrassed to say that I have no sustained vibration in the mirrors. Perhaps some minor transitional blurring, but nothing in any RPM range that I ride in. Perhaps I'm just lucky.

I'm also embarrassed to say I did not know this bike had tapered bars. :-[

Paul
 

jajpko

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SisuTen said:
I'm almost embarrassed to say that I have no sustained vibration in the mirrors. Perhaps some minor transitional blurring, but nothing in any RPM range that I ride in. Perhaps I'm just lucky.

I'm also embarrassed to say I did not know this bike had tapered bars. :-[

Paul
Wanna trade? ::025::
 

tomatocity

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I really don't have a handlebar vibration with my Super Tenere though because of this thread noticed a bot on the left side.

I am changing handlebars for a better hand position. The ProTaper Raptor has a sweep VERY close to the KLR and that works for me. The PT RAptor is a taller handlebar and that is also a good thing. I am looking for a internal fastener for the bar end bolt. Will post the results when I get all the parts collected and installed.

Again I am not changing the handlebars to reduce vibration though for hand, arm, and shoulder comfort.
 

WRW9751

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Just got this from Dan at ROX.
Hello Wayne~

Our anti-vibe risers might be able to help out with that. That is an unusual case you have there? You will need a longer clutch line I believe, it may be your brake line too? I don’t remember which one it is. The best way is to pull your bars off the bike and see how high you can get them before the cables get tight. We are located 5 miles SW of Grand Rapids. Let us know.

Thanks~

Ryan Jensen
Rox Speed FX, Inc.
37829 Rock Haven Rd
Cohasset, MN 55721
218-326-1794
www.roxspeedfx.com
 

SisuTen

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japako said:
Wanna trade? ::025::
I might have Jim, but unlike Rod, I prefer the black bike.

Sorry, couldn't help myself :)) :))

Paul
 

Yamaguy55

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japako said:
Wanna trade? ::025::
Mine isn't real bad: just from the 3500-4200 zone, but worse around 3700. It is most noticeable going from low throttle openings to larger ones: lugging the engine in to high a gear for the load, and then accelerating. I'd almost call it power delivery, rather than true vibration. Cool days make a big difference: much lower effect
 

SisuTen

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Gotcha. The engine does have a low frequency growl if you accelerate at a slower progressive rate if you will (I kinda like it), but at a steady cruise at just about all speeds, mine is pretty smooth. Like I said, I'm used to worse, so it may not be as aggravating to me, as to others who've had smoother bikes.
 

WRW9751

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In the last couple of days I installed my heated grips (OEM) in the process I filled my bars with #4 lead shot. I rode it for a short ride today, it may have cured the vibration. I'll know more with a longer ride. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
 

Kevhunts

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WRW9751 said:
In the last couple of days I installed my heated grips (OEM) in the process I filled my bars with #4 lead shot. I rode it for a short ride today, it may have cured the vibration. I'll know more with a longer ride. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
Might want to try vibration gloves like loggers & construction guys wear.
 

Don in Lodi

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WRW9751 said:
In the last couple of days I installed my heated grips (OEM) in the process I filled my bars with #4 lead shot. I rode it for a short ride today, it may have cured the vibration. I'll know more with a longer ride. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
Do you happen to remember how many ounces it took?
 

roy

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My bike does not Vibrate that I can tell but I am riding on top of an internal combustion engine if that makes any difference. O:)
 
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