colorider
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Suprised you had any loose ones with all pavement!SpeedStar said:S
All pavement so far.
Suprised you had any loose ones with all pavement!SpeedStar said:S
All pavement so far.
I was surprised too. Not what I was expecting.ColoRider said:Suprised you had any loose ones with all pavement!
Sounds like a plan.pqsqac said:I've never had to deal with them before on a motorbike only my bicycle as a kid and I would just break them off then not knwing any better. ;D
Thanks
I use a small screw driver or an awl. Tap the spoke gently and it should emit a pinging sound. If it is dull or no ping, it should be tightened. Some of the spokes on my rear wheel touch when they cross, so be careful and take that into account.pqsqac said:What is the proven method of checking your spokes? I've never had to deal with them before on a motorbike only my bicycle as a kid and I would just break them off then not knwing any better. ;D
Thanks
Probably from hitting all the pot-holes in our wonderful California roads!ColoRider said:Suprised you had any loose ones with all pavement!
It won't. This wrench is for a conventionally-spoked wheel where adjustment is made by turning a spoke nipple at the rim.spasm said:this wrench looks good, not sure if it would work on the s10 tho.
Good find! I need to look for something similar to carry under my seat.pluric said:Dumb luck. This was the only style hex with a handle in my tool box.... 5mm.
That never happens to me. Fits under the seat. Also fits the side case hex.
Just clears the front rotors to reach the nipples.
Find a long hex key socket. The short sockets will not give you enough space between the "inner" spokes and the "outer" spokes at the hub. You can get a torque wrench on the end of the socket for proper torque.spasm said:i have used just the L key but find it very slow, maybe the T bar type will be better and faster, ::008::