Check your spokes!

[xt12nut]

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

This is from the Loctite web site.

Well again, that is just plain BS.. You have no idea how much heat, if any would be needed. You would do well to read the spec sheet on this product.

 

[jajpko]

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

This is from the Loctite web site.

I can't help you. There are many people that use this product and have no problems.
I will say this, had you read the spec sheet, you also would have read that the locker can be sheared with hand tools, or heat, if needed.
It comes down to your level of experience. Perhaps you should just have your dealer work on your bike..

 

[Checkswrecks]

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly.

This is from the Loctite web site.

Wrong. That's from the advertising. The actual Technical Data Sheet states:
1. Remove with standard hand tools.
2. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250 °C. Disassemble while hot.


The TDS is here: http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93808_290EN.pdf

 

[pluric]

I thought the whole Loc-tite idea was to keep from losing the nipple when the spoke became loose.

That was my main concern. If I lost the nipple (I carry extras now) I would be left with a flopping spoke.
The zip tie suggestion was to keep it from flying around and getting bent.

I just want to be able to fix it on the spot.

I may put a small dab of silicone on the hub nipple hole to keep the nipple in place if it did get loose
enough to disappear. Well that and check my spokes more often. ::010::

 

[markjenn]

I thought the whole Loc-tite idea was to keep from losing the nipple when the spoke became loose.

Some seem to think that loctite is a good preventative measure that will help the spokes from losing proper tension in the first place.

I don't know for sure, but it just doesn't make much sense to me that the spokes are loosing tension because of a lack of thread locker (i.e., the mechanism is not like a bolt vibrating loose) and I've never seen a recommendation in any wheel building reference (including the one from MCN passed around earlier) to use thread locker on spokes/nipples. In fact, most wheel building instructions say to use some kind of thread lubricant to make the spoke/nipple interface EASIER to turn as it aids in getting the wheel properly trued and tensioned. To my mind, using thread locker would make spoke/wheel maintenance much harder after its use. I won't be using the stuff

But at the same time, I don't think we have figured out exactly why these wheels are having issues.

I have witness paint on my spoke nipples to see if they're spontaneously turning and loosening. What I think I'm going to find over time is one or more loose spokes, but no turning of the spoke nipples. I don't have enough miles on the wheel to tell anything yet.

- Mark

 

[pluric]

Some seem to think that loctite is a good preventative measure that will help the spokes from losing proper tension in the first place.

- Mark

I don't think it will stop them from needing adjustment either. As the spokes seat in on both
the rim lip and the hub some looseness will occur. As I said, I just want parts to stay in place
for an easy on site repair/adjust.

 

[Mike Sisson]

I don't think it will stop them from needing adjustment either. As the spokes seat in on both
the rim lip and the hub some looseness will occur. As I said, I just want parts to stay in place
for an easy on site repair/adjust.

::026::

After owning a Ural for several years I find that the loosening improves considerably after a few thousand miles. I check them every 2-300 miles and after initial loosening it has all calmed down considerably. As noted above, my entire goal with the loctite is to prevent a nipple popping off and causing issues from that event.

 

[tantatiger]

defntly zip tie the spokes. A mate here in Oz just had his swing arm replaced from nicks caused by broken spoke, cost over $4000 for parts as we pay thru' the nose here for parts.
Zip em once and check them often.

 

[colorider]

defntly zip tie the spokes. A mate here in Oz just had his swing arm replaced from nicks caused by broken spoke, cost over $4000 for parts as we pay thru' the nose here for parts.
Zip em once and check them often.

Welcome to the Forum! Please post an intro in the "Member Intros" section of the forum and tell us all about your SuoerT

Thanks,
Rod

::004::

 

[Longboard]

I'm to lazy to go back and read from the start but has anyone called a spoke wheel expert and asked them what they think?

I'm going to call these guys tomorrow. They are local for me as well.

www.buchananspokes.net

LB

 

[Mike Sisson]

Pluric just had his wheels re-done by Woody's (for whom I have great respect) and would like to hear Woody's impressions of the S10 wheels/spokes.....

Pluric???? ::017::

 

[pluric]

Pluric just had his wheels re-done by Woody's (for whom I have great respect) and would like to hear Woody's impressions of the S10 wheels/spokes.....

Pluric???? ::017::

They really didn't get into the design of the wheel with me. They did mention the spoke thread was
a little coarse and that they will have a stainless steel fine thread spoke set available soon.

I've not heard of a single spoke breaking. It seems the nipple backing out and the spoke being
able to then fling around is the main concern. For now I'm going check mine more often and stick
with the stock spokes.

 

[SisuTen]

I just posted this on the soft rim thread and figured I should add it here:

"For you engineering guys that are much smarter than me.......Could this loosening be a result of the nipples being at the hub rather than at the rim? In other words, could it be a case of engine torque being applied more directly to the nipple and loosening them? Seems to me that the hub end of a spoke is more subject to flexing than the rim end.

Maybe a call to Woody in Denver would help sort this out and keep us from needless anxiety and being forced to apply Band-Aids on a weekly/monthly basis."

I had a thought afterwards and if this type of flexing/loosening at the hub is the problem, perhaps an extended spoke with a cone washer for the nipple seat in the hub topped off with a washer and nylok nut to adjust spoke tension might be a possible answer. I don't believe that flexing in and of itself is necessarily bad as long as spoke tension is retained, but nipple rotation obviously is. The hub design lends itself well to a longer spoke and while this solution may not meet the "appearance" standards for this bike, I think it may work.

I'm with Mark regarding Lock-Tite. I believe it just makes the situation worse in regards to further adjustment/removal. A Nylok would allow precise tension adjustment/retention, as well as easy removal.

Paul

 

[motopan]

Hi team,
The first person to notice a loose spoke was the Border Guard at the US border in Brownsville, TX. I had heard intermittent Tick, Tick, Tick, at slow speeds, but thought it was a stone in the tread. We went to the first Yam. Dealer we could find and they went way out of their way to find a spoke nipple that would fit, and straighten out the errant spoke enough to be safe.
Every morning after that, from Riviera Tx to Dearfield Beach, Fl. then across to Monterey, Ca., I did the "ping" test, with neg results. Then, in Sedona Ar. we heard that tel-tale Tick, Tick, Tick again. This time, one spoke was hitting the pavement and two more were loose. The closest Yam Dealer advised to put the bent spoke in my pocket and they tightened & trued up the rear rim, no charge.
That fix held from there, thru Mexico, Central America and home to Chiriqui, Panama. Than, on a ride back from Bocas Del Toro, on the Caribbean side, we started hearing the tel-tale, Tick tick, Tick tick, Tick tick of TWO spokes hitting the pavement and a low rear tire. We needed to air up twice just to make it home. That's when I delivered the rear wheel to the guys I bought the S10 from.
It seems to me that enough of us has had spoke and "soft rim" problems to show a "product defect".
In the 59 years I've been riding motos and 60+ motorcycles I've owned, I've never had this kind of prob before. Later, Motopan

 

[fender5803]

defntly zip tie the spokes. A mate here in Oz just had his swing arm replaced from nicks caused by broken spoke, cost over $4000 for parts as we pay thru' the nose here for parts.
Zip em once and check them often.

Hey Tantatiger and welcome to the forum.
I have to ask if I understand this, your mate replaced his swing-arm because it got "nicked" from a hanging spoke-? I don't mean to sound doubtful because I'm sure it could happen and I am knocking wood I don't suffer the same but I can't imagine replacing the swing arm because of this. Maybe I am missing something.
Anyway, enjoy the group here it's a great bunch.
-DT

 

[AlsoRan]

If there tied then no damage to the swingarm if something happens. Check often then no problem...just part of the routine with a spoked wheel.

 

[pluric]

Hey Tantatiger and welcome to the forum.
I have to ask if I understand this, your mate replaced his swing-arm because it got "nicked" from a hanging spoke-? I don't mean to sound doubtful because I'm sure it could happen and I am knocking wood I don't suffer the same but I can't imagine replacing the swing arm because of this. Maybe I am missing something.
Anyway, enjoy the group here it's a great bunch.
-DT

Yeah, that's why we Yanks have JB Weld.

 

[SpeedStar]

I had checked mine a few thousand miles ago and had none loose. Glad I checked again, four loose on the rear! The front had three slightly loose. Don't wait, check yours regularly.

 

[colorider]

I had checked mine a few thousand miles ago and had none loose. Glad I checked again, four loose on the rear! The front had three slightly loose. Don't wait, check yours regularly.

Any off-road riding, or was that all pavement?

 

[SpeedStar]

Any off-road riding, or was that all pavement?

All pavement so far.