Jdandy
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Roger
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but what kind of problems?….1) only the abs light comes on (code 62)….or 2) together with the abs light, the loss of the UBS is added?…… remember that the abs has a brake pressure sensor... that you could relate to "a hydraulic failure", as code 62 saysUpdate on ABS. There are two tests you can perform on ABS pump. 1) jump black and blue wire, turn on kill switch turn key on hold in starter button 4 seconds and release while holding front and back brake. Should feel impulse front rear front. 2) (easiest) jump black and blue wire kill switch off hold down on front and back brake and turn on main switch/key impulse front back front.
Need input. Last rwo mornings here below 45 degrees. Yesterday rode bike 2 miles cycled ABS pump while riding 20-25 times then ABS light kicks on. This morning jumped wires and used method 2 to cycle 20 times, cycled perfect no issues.
It seems that when the bike warms up or the ambient temperature warms up issues begin.
All theories welcome...
It sounds like it is working after being cycled a number of times. Is that right? If so, cycle it some more, change the fluid, and cycle if yet more.Update on ABS. There are two tests you can perform on ABS pump. 1) jump black and blue wire, turn on kill switch turn key on hold in starter button 4 seconds and release while holding front and back brake. Should feel impulse front rear front. 2) (easiest) jump black and blue wire kill switch off hold down on front and back brake and turn on main switch/key impulse front back front.
Need input. Last rwo mornings here below 45 degrees. Yesterday rode bike 2 miles cycled ABS pump while riding 20-25 times then ABS light kicks on. This morning jumped wires and used method 2 to cycle 20 times, cycled perfect no issues.
It seems that when the bike warms up or the ambient temperature warms up issues begin.
All theories welcome...
I have completely flushed the system twice. We have bled the system 6 times. If I am spared and the system has resumed normal function I will flush the system annually. If this turns out to be temporary, I plan on removing the ABS unit, separating the pump from the ECM and thoroughly cleaning the valve body and valves.It sounds like it is working after being cycled a number of times. Is that right? If so, cycle it some more, change the fluid, and cycle if yet more.
As I said before, there's a history of corrosion being found in these and what I didn't write is that it is likely related to lack of use plus some moisture being carried by the hydraulic brake fluid. This is lack of maintenance (before you got the bike), it is not a failure that NHTSA will act on.
Once broken free, you should be good to go. IF IF IF you do open the pump, first, I'd recommend thoroughly going back here on the forum for the experiences of others. Second and since there are zero spare parts made for it, assume from the start that you will be scrapping it. Finally, there are multiple threads about what to do with the hoses to run the bike with no ABS.
To all - It's a really good idea to hit the brakes hard a few times occasionally on grass, dirt, or gravel just to cycle the pump.
And definitely change the fluid at least once a year.
You are right on the money with this observation.Right you are (again) that the pump operates normally per pages 1-8 to 27 of the Service Manual, but reading it for the first time in years makes me think the real problem may be nay of a number of other components in the assembly which come into contact with the fluid. In addition to the ABS motor and hydraulic pump are no less than 5 other valves (book says 4 then shows 5) and the pressure sensors. Some of these only actuate when the anti-skid function acts and if ANYTHING in the system doesn't work right, the assembly goes inoperative, leaving the rider with conventional brakes. i.e. The front and rear operate on their own.
I'll keep exercising my ABS regularly because the source fault could be one of those valves that only actuate with it.
That could very well be. After cycling 20 times this morning took it on a test run used brakes as normal without ABS on hardball hit dirt and cycled 3 or 4 times and ABS light pops on. Came home jumped blue and black and rear only cycled then would not cycle at all. I am sure betting this is a dirty or corroded connection in the coupler or a stuck or dirty valve.I think, not having read, that you "tested" the abs in gravel...if the abs fulfills the anti-lock function...front and back...why disassemble it?...if code 62 is a hydraulic problem...no it necessarily has to be "hydraulic brake pressure"... maybe a pin that doesn't make good contact...the abs loses the signal... and shows the fault...
If the Tenere ABS block looks like that on the inside, you may get lucky and find a shorted FET that can be replaced, but that control board is potted and isn't serviceable.How to Disassemble ABS Unit
www.full-repair.com
At some point in the past, I recall copying some info from this site about how to bypass the ABS module. I wasn't having any issues (and still aren't having any) but it seemed like pretty useful info to keep in my service manual just in case. Trouble is that all I have left of the info I copied are two photos:
I'm almost certain that the info I got came from a post by a member on this forum, but none of my searches for things like "bypass the ABS" in both the search function on this forum and on Google itself are turning up any threads regarding how to bypass the ABS on a Super Tenere. I tried a Google image search of the photos, also with no success. The photo of the bike sure doesn't appear to be an S10, but I doubt I would have been on any other motorcycle forums looking for how to do this. I'm sure I just encountered the post on here while perusing the site, and decided to keep it for future reference.
Do these photos jog anyone's memory of a member who posted a thread about this? My bike has close to 100,000 miles, and if the ABS went I really doubt I'd go to the expense of replacing the module, so a bypass method would be a nice thing to have at my fingertips.