Jdandy
Member
I have spoken to my friend who travels there frequently....he keeps a bike down there to ride and says "if it can be repaired he can do it".....we will see. I will have a spare pump if it works.
Will anyone in the USA rebuild the ABS control module?
- Thread starter ThrottleItOut
- Start date
Jdandy
Member
Yep you are correct....hmmm, only one person to handle something like this and now 40,000 IRS agent
Mr. BR...looks like your ABS has the same symptoms as mine. Just bought a used pump onebay 824.00 (ouch!) considered a ew one but there is zero warranty if not installed by a dealer. At least have 30dayreturns @ebay. I amsending my old pump by friend to Central America where he ha a friend who can probably repair it. Will let you know how it turns out.....also,new pump has to one from Japan...60-90 days.
Mr. BR
Active Member
Hello Jdandy,
Yes, I have been following your thread with much interest as I have a similar siutation as previously described. I'll be checking my valves in a few weeks and while I have it apart I'm going to do a more thorough check of everything related to the ABS (2nd flush, connections etc). I've already given mine a full flush but the ABS light stays on (bought it that way last August). That glowing light is more of an annoyance but I'd still like to get the ABS working again and a used ebay unit may also be in my future. I'm currently getting codes 11 and or 25 (front Sensor) and possibly 33 (ABS motor or no power to motor) and 34 (pump motor short circuit) and I need to fully reconfirm those before I dig in again. Good luck with your new/used ebay unit!!!
Regards,
Mr. BR
Yes, I have been following your thread with much interest as I have a similar siutation as previously described. I'll be checking my valves in a few weeks and while I have it apart I'm going to do a more thorough check of everything related to the ABS (2nd flush, connections etc). I've already given mine a full flush but the ABS light stays on (bought it that way last August). That glowing light is more of an annoyance but I'd still like to get the ABS working again and a used ebay unit may also be in my future. I'm currently getting codes 11 and or 25 (front Sensor) and possibly 33 (ABS motor or no power to motor) and 34 (pump motor short circuit) and I need to fully reconfirm those before I dig in again. Good luck with your new/used ebay unit!!!
Regards,
Mr. BR
2daMax
Active Member
Pertaining to ABS issues with regards to the rear brake, either the pedal is soft with no rear brakes or hard/stuck, the problems are 2 different kinds.
The soft pedal is basically air trapped in the ABS unit, in the valve areas or maybe behind the valves. This requires multiple actuations of the valve to remove the air.
For the hard/stuck pedal, this would be a stucked valve, most likely the linked brakes (UBS) valve. Valves apparently gets corroded or plated with Copper ions, which are a consequence of old brake fluid that has lost its corrosion inhibitive properties. The corrosion affects the valve to restrict it from sliding. At the early stages of this symptom, the valve can be unstuck by hard pressing on the pedal to retract the stuck valve, and if that doesn't work, turning off the bike and on again, and then ride the bike and apply just the front brakes hard, may get the valve to get unstuck. Fluids needs to be changed asap because this is the sign of fluid failures.
I know that's a mechanic in Malaysia that can solve this abs valve stuck issue. He uses some solvent (??) to flow into the valve block and let it soak. I do not know what it is but some Youtube shows that it could be denatured alcohol (ethanol). A more hard core approach, would be to remove the copper plating that has adhered to the valve. Hydrogen Peroxide and vinegar seems to be able to do it but am not sure what else is in the valve block that may not like it. Anyway, here's some ideas on how to clear up the sticky valve issue.
I am currently having a sticky valve on the UBS, getting a rear pedal stuck but able to recover such that the ABS is operational again. If I do not use the bike for a few days, the problem would recur. I have bled and cycled the ABS about 11X to the rear brake. Will update if there is any improvements. I am hoping the cycling of the valves would remove the debris and oxides on the valve with new fluids moving away the debris.
The soft pedal is basically air trapped in the ABS unit, in the valve areas or maybe behind the valves. This requires multiple actuations of the valve to remove the air.
For the hard/stuck pedal, this would be a stucked valve, most likely the linked brakes (UBS) valve. Valves apparently gets corroded or plated with Copper ions, which are a consequence of old brake fluid that has lost its corrosion inhibitive properties. The corrosion affects the valve to restrict it from sliding. At the early stages of this symptom, the valve can be unstuck by hard pressing on the pedal to retract the stuck valve, and if that doesn't work, turning off the bike and on again, and then ride the bike and apply just the front brakes hard, may get the valve to get unstuck. Fluids needs to be changed asap because this is the sign of fluid failures.
I know that's a mechanic in Malaysia that can solve this abs valve stuck issue. He uses some solvent (??) to flow into the valve block and let it soak. I do not know what it is but some Youtube shows that it could be denatured alcohol (ethanol). A more hard core approach, would be to remove the copper plating that has adhered to the valve. Hydrogen Peroxide and vinegar seems to be able to do it but am not sure what else is in the valve block that may not like it. Anyway, here's some ideas on how to clear up the sticky valve issue.
I am currently having a sticky valve on the UBS, getting a rear pedal stuck but able to recover such that the ABS is operational again. If I do not use the bike for a few days, the problem would recur. I have bled and cycled the ABS about 11X to the rear brake. Will update if there is any improvements. I am hoping the cycling of the valves would remove the debris and oxides on the valve with new fluids moving away the debris.
Jdandy
Member
ABS Module installed. Found a used one on ebay 850.00, pulled the old module and installed replacement. Cleared codes and all working normally. In installing the replacement and cycling the pump it was much quieter than the original. It appears that it was the pump portion that failed. From this point forward as long as I have the bike I will flush annually.
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Mr. BR
Active Member
Congrats on the fix... glad that worked out. I think $850 is reasonable for a used unit (~50% of retail). There is one more pump on Ebay but seller wants $1329. I don't see anyone paying that much for a used unit and this one has been listed for 6 mos now (Seller out here in CA. All his Super T items are overpriced). I'll be digging into mine sometime this Spring along with a valve clearance check.
Regards,
Mr. BR
Regards,
Mr. BR
I live in Colombia, SouthAmerica. Here at, there's a local garage, Yamaha authorized, that repair those ABS modules (almost all and every SuperTen has that failure). Mine has undergone that failure and reparation, with very good result. If you can't find help at USA, you can send the module, they repair it and return it to you.
It is almost certain that almost everyone who has changed the front and rear pads on the S10 has done so without following the instructions in the S10 service manual, because it is highly likely that "very few" private mechanics and mechanics of ss authorized technicians, have that manual or have read that manual, especially in the part of changing the pads, where it clarifies that "when the pistons are pushed in, loosen the bleeders, to avoid exerting pressure backwards" ….
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Kruzzin5
Well-Known Member
you’re right, I have never done that. However, doesn’t loosening the master cylinder cap relieve some pressure?
The problem would be that the brake fluid, before reaching the reservoir, would pass through the abs module, in the opposite direction... through internal valves... I don't really know what the reason is... but I have read about it. several users who “lost the rear brake”, after changing the pads….pushing the caliper pistons in, “without loosening the bleeders”……
On the street, there are many very good specialists in changing brake pads,... but it does not mean that they are specialists in brakes with abs... and if they changed pads on vehicles with abs for a long time... "and nothing happened"... in this long time….other functions were added to the abs module (UBS, ESP, emergency braking, and lately autonomous braking by radar)… functions that surely added valves and solenoids to the same module. The caliper and the pads remain the same…but between the caliper and the reservoir there is an abs module that is becoming more complex every day
thughes317
Well-Known Member
Yep! SOP for anyone who's been servicing abs equipped vehicles for the past few decades. Calipers and wheel cylinders are the low spots in the system where all the crud settles. One should clamp off the brake line (with a proper clamping tool) and open the bleeder prior to pushing the pistons back in. Prevents pushing all the crap back up into the braking system.
This is probably why we have never read about “front brake failure”…..we have always read about rear brake failure…..but, using this reasoning, the front brake is further away from the abs module and when pushing the pistons, the crap does not reach the module and returns to the lowest part again... the rear brake being closer, probably the crap reaches the module and stays there, causing brake failures or bubbles (bubbles???….if you put a pressurized fluid through a small opening... and you accelerate its speed too much in relation to the pressure... it tends to generate bubbles, the fluid changes from a liquid to a gaseous state…it is called “cavitation”
the small opening could be crap, stuck in an abs valve
patrickg450
Well-Known Member
maybe you can post some info for us? Care to help facilitate the work for those of us outside of S Am?
TORRALVO
New Member
I have a similar problem but on the front brake.
I have a ST13 and 49k miles.
I've tried to change brake fluid lately but I can't get the front one to have pressure... before changing fluid it's hard and it didn't brake.
That reason I will send my module to COLOMBIA where I have a mechanical engineer specialized in SUPER TENERE and he has already rebuilt several pumps.
He tells me that I sent it to him and I think I will. I'm not sure but the cost is around $400 USD i have to ask him
If he is interested we can get in touch.
I'm riding USA. I'm be here to Florida right now
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
Grape_salad
Member
No - the reservoir is not part of the pressurised system.
Mr. BR
Active Member
Reviving this old thread as I was following it closely while the OP and others worked to fix their ABS issues.
My ’12 was purchased 18 mos ago with a glowing ABS light and codes for Front Sensor and Pump Motor.
Front Sensor replaced (that error code gone, TC working again) but the Pump Motor code remained as expected (fault code 33: Pump Motor/No Voltage).
I had gone through the Service Manual and checked just about everything I could regarding continuities, voltages etc and there had been no used ABS pump units on Ebay for a while…
Until a few weeks ago. I got an email notice for a new posting of a very reasonably priced 2013 pump so I bought it immediately and 2 days later it arrived.
Swapped it out, bled the system but no change, pump motor not cycling, AND, I still have same Error Code. Freaky coincidence?
More poking around, checking fuses again… hmmm, the 30A pump fuse looks good but is a rather loose fit in its receptacle so I fix that and then try to cycle the pump yet again.
The pump suddenly comes to life and whirrs away for ~5 seconds just like I’d seen on Youtube, something neither pump had done before.
A test ride confirmed all was working normally and the ABS light was off so I then re-installed my original pump unit and it also works normal, no codes etc.
I’m going to leave the original unit in place and keep the ebay unit as a back-up or possibly just sell it here on the forum.
So… NO voltage had been the issue all along due to a loose-fitting fuse.
Mr. BR
Note: regarding the OP’s question of “Will anyone in the USA rebuild the ABS control module?”. A place called Module Master in Moscow, Idaho USA was mentioned in one of the FB groups and looked promising based on their website. But after reaching out to them about the Super Tenere, their reply was “This is a motor type we do not work on. Sorry”.
My ’12 was purchased 18 mos ago with a glowing ABS light and codes for Front Sensor and Pump Motor.
Front Sensor replaced (that error code gone, TC working again) but the Pump Motor code remained as expected (fault code 33: Pump Motor/No Voltage).
I had gone through the Service Manual and checked just about everything I could regarding continuities, voltages etc and there had been no used ABS pump units on Ebay for a while…
Until a few weeks ago. I got an email notice for a new posting of a very reasonably priced 2013 pump so I bought it immediately and 2 days later it arrived.
Swapped it out, bled the system but no change, pump motor not cycling, AND, I still have same Error Code. Freaky coincidence?
More poking around, checking fuses again… hmmm, the 30A pump fuse looks good but is a rather loose fit in its receptacle so I fix that and then try to cycle the pump yet again.
The pump suddenly comes to life and whirrs away for ~5 seconds just like I’d seen on Youtube, something neither pump had done before.
A test ride confirmed all was working normally and the ABS light was off so I then re-installed my original pump unit and it also works normal, no codes etc.
I’m going to leave the original unit in place and keep the ebay unit as a back-up or possibly just sell it here on the forum.
So… NO voltage had been the issue all along due to a loose-fitting fuse.
Mr. BR
Note: regarding the OP’s question of “Will anyone in the USA rebuild the ABS control module?”. A place called Module Master in Moscow, Idaho USA was mentioned in one of the FB groups and looked promising based on their website. But after reaching out to them about the Super Tenere, their reply was “This is a motor type we do not work on. Sorry”.
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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@Mr. BR - An interesting outcome for sure. Of note is that it was a common farkle among some S10 riders to add a switch to the ABS circuit by tapping in at one of the ABS fuses in order to be able to disable ABS on the fly by cutting power to the ABS with a bar mounted switch. It was just a bit of wire, a fuse holder and a switch. (some used a relay as well, IIRC) Makes me wonder if some previous owner of your bike messed with that, then removed it later, causing the looseness in the fuse holder?