Who will be changing there chain tensioner to the 14' during valve adjustment ?

[F16Viper68]

Somebody just did a great photo series of his tear down just recently, mine looked like his shot looking down on the frame except my tank was still in place. Push down on the clip holding the harness to the frame and it will slide out of it's notch and easily pull to the left leaving lots of room to work. A sharp tap, I used the heal of my hand, on the screw driver pressing as much in the rearward direction as possible and there will be an audible click as the tensioner releases, the chain gives a little jump when it happens. All done, put it back together and start it and sigh when there is no clatter.

Does this help? http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=12718.msg212610#msg212610

 

[Don in Lodi]

::008::

 

[Mzee]

Thanks everyone. When the cover is taken off must one drain the engine oil first?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Thanks everyone. When the cover is taken off must one drain the engine oil first?

Nope, just put your bike on the side stand. Also the case will be at a better angle to work on.

 

[Ramseybella]

I usually do it right before my next oil change.

 

[Mzee]

Thank you Tabasco and Ramseybella. I will tell you my experience.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Thank you Tabasco and Ramseybella. I will tell you my experience.

No problem, Its best to ask questions ! That's one reason forums are so great, so everyone can learn ! If you have any other questions, let us know... ::008::


Side story: Funny story a Yamaha mechanic told me once. Years ago a guy had a Yamaha FZ1. He was reading on a forum about Nos, and reading a post about people adding Nitrous or kicking around the idea on the FZ1 forum. After reading about the "performance" gains that everyone was talking about he filed the info away in his 'brain'... On his way back from a trip he came across "Nos" in a can, (at a gas station). He thought "this isn't hard to find and its not even that expensive"... He proceeded to buy a 24oz can of Nos energy drink and pour it in the gas tank.. The story goes he didn't get out of the parking lot and did a ton of serious damage to the motor.. (I was told there were no performance gains)
(I saw the bike with the motor torn down to the block, that's what prompted the question "what's wrong with this bike?)
Sometimes its best to take a deep breather and try and help folks out that might have a few extra questions. This forum is not our job, its something that SHOULD be FUN ::012::

 

[Mzee]

No problem, Its best to ask questions ! That's one reason forums are so great, so everyone can learn ! If you have any other questions, let us know... ::008::


Side story: Funny story a Yamaha mechanic told me once. Years ago a guy had a Yamaha FZ1. He was reading on a forum about Nos, and reading a post about people adding Nitrous or kicking around the idea on the FZ1 forum. After reading about the "performance" gains that everyone was talking about he filed the info away in his 'brain'... On his way back from a trip he came across "Nos" in a can, (at a gas station). He thought "this isn't hard to find and its not even that expensive"... He proceeded to buy a 24oz can of Nos energy drink and pour it in the gas tank.. The story goes he didn't get out of the parking lot and did a ton of serious damage to the motor.. (I was told there were no performance gains)
(I saw the bike with the motor torn down to the block, that's what prompted the question "what's wrong with this bike?)
Sometimes its best to take a deep breather and try and help folks out that might have a few extra questions. This forum is not our job, its something that SHOULD be FUN ::012::

;D ;D Talking about questions. I saw somewhere that one has to torque each nut on the clutch cover to a specific torque. Although this seems obvious, what if one does not have a torque wrench?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Probably should buy a decent one Don't buy a cheap brand/quality.

 

[AVGeek]

Probably should buy a decent one Don't buy a cheap brand/quality.

Agreed. A good torque wrench may seem expensive at first, but it's a good investment in the long run...

 

[Mzee]

Ok I will invest in a another torque spanner but rummaging through my many tools I found this one (see pictures below)

Marked with Newton meters on one side and Kilograms on one side. Problem this one does not have precis measurements. My questions will it do given it is the tool I have now. Thanks again for your informative inputs.

Forgive my ignorance, just asking for clarity: the clutch cover bolts must be tightened by 12Nm (1.2 m.Kgf), and the sequence is the one shown in the picture above?

 

[avc8130]

What isn't "precise" about it? It looks like it can be set to the single digit NM to me.

ac

 

[EricV]

;D ;D Talking about questions. I saw somewhere that one has to torque each nut on the clutch cover to a specific torque. Although this seems obvious, what if one does not have a torque wrench?

Yes, 12 Nm (8.7 ft/lbs for us US folks, or 104.4 in/lbs) We actually refer to those fasteners as bolts. The idea here is to slowly and evenly tighten the cover in stages to avoid over tightening it in any one spot, which could warp the clutch cover or pinch the gasket and create a leak. The first time each bolt is run in, it should just be to snug, or finger tight, w/o torque applied. The second time approximately half of the final torque value should be applied. The third time, the full, final torque amount should be applied.

In very general terms, torque specifications are generally listed for three reasons. The most common two are: So you don't snap off a small fastener, (over tighten it), and So you don't have it fall off later, (under tighten it). The third applies in this case, (as well as the first), and that is to avoid warping or distorting a relatively thin or concave/convex part. It's quite common on large covers where gaskets go around the diameter.

For people that have been doing mechanical work for years, they often develop a "feel" for how much force equals a general amount and also develop mechanical empathy, (an understanding of what is delicate, what requires more force to remain in place, and the understanding of how much is too much for a given size and type of fastener.) IF someone has a good "feel" they can often, safely tighten fasteners in non-critical areas w/o a torque wrench.

Examples of the types of area where this might be done are the lug nuts on car wheels. There is a torque spec, (usually 80-90 ft/lbs), but the idea here is to tighten them so they don't fall off, but you can still remove them by the side of the road with the tools supplied by the manufacturer. Many people have a good feel for how tight that is and it's not a critical value. A little tighter won't likely snap off the stud or strip the lug nut. A little looser and it's unlikely to come loose and fall off.

Lower torque values can be more challenging to develop a feel for. Some areas are simple critical, and error can be costly and destructive. Over tightening the cam caps or any bearing cap is an example of this.

While the clutch cover is not a critical part, it can be damaged or warped if tightened incorrectly, and most likely, that won't be something that simply loosening and re-tightening will fix. It will require a new gasket at the least, and machining or replacing the clutch cover at worst. The danger here is in over tightening, primarily.

Note: If that torque wrench you have has not been tested or calibrated in quite some time, or has been disassembled, you really have no idea what value you are tightening to. It could be higher or lower than actual. The torque wrench should be set to exact value in the middle of the range, (unless you know a specific, smaller, range you will be using the tool in). This will still mean that it will be slightly off at the high and low ends of the listed range on the tool. That is normal, and for a decent quality tool, the amount of variance will not be significant enough to cause problems.

Some calls to industrial tool suppliers and possibly auto parts stores or hardware stores in your area may be required to find someone that can check your torque wrench are set or re-set it for safe use. It's not a difficult process and the home user does not require certification paperwork, as businesses would. It should be something they can do while you wait and for a small expense. In the US, some places will do this for free.

Hope that helps.

 

[Mzee]

Thank you avc8130 and EricV for you new input on torquing spec and the torque spanner. Very very helpful in making the point that over tightening is something to watch out for and understanding is equally dangerous.

I will take my spanner to the a general hardware store for calibration in my area.

I have seen an electronic torque spanner on Ebay, how does this one fair? It is better than the mechanical one in terms of accuracy?

I will report back once I have news for you.

Still waiting for my CCT.

 

[EricV]

I have seen an electronic torque spanner on Ebay, how does this one fair? It is better than the mechanical one in terms of accuracy?

Not necessarily. Electronic is a style of torque wrench, like beam or audible click, but no one style is inherently more accurate than the other. Some simply find different styles more comfortable or easier for them to use. All of the styles are manufactured in a wide range of quality, from complete junk found for very low price, to extreme accuracy that is un-necessary for the average home user. If you want to replace your existing tool, consider something in the middle range of quality. If you are looking for something specific for torquing the spokes, look for a wrench that has the torque spec of the spokes near the middle of the overall range of the tool, that will be the more accurate area of the range.

 

[Mzee]

Still waiting for my CCT to arrive. Yamaha SA said that it will be shipped today from the factory in Japan. It seems 2-3 more weeks of waiting.

 

[Mzee]

Received my CCT today. All I can say I'm excited. Will report back the details. Will fit myself of course with the help here. ::012::

 

[Mzee]

Heeeeeee, I received my CCT today about an hour ago. I will be installing tomorrow at first light. I will report back here. However, one curious question as the first photo shows does it come ready to be installed?

 

[Toxic Mark]

Yes, that's in the ready-to-install configuration. If you accidentally bump it hard enough you may release/extend the rod (I.e, the tensioner) prematurely. No need to treat it like nitro glycerin, but don't be rough with it.

When it is bolted in place you will then purposefully "bump" it to release the tensioner by whacking the tension chain guide with a screwdriver.

 

[Bigbore4]

Dropped mine at the dealer Saturday. I have been shooting Video of the starts. I had prearranged this with my service manager, but when I dropped the bike of I had a video with sound of some harsh rattle for a couple seconds. He said YUP and I am confident it will be covered with the YES coverage.

Hopefully they get it done this week, I miss my grip heaters.