What you did to your Tenere today??!!

[Boris]

I took the airbox off today, in preparation for an air filter change when the new one arrives next week. The current filter (OEM) has been in for 8908 miles and in all honesty, was surprisingly clean. In addition to this, there was only a very light misting of oil present in the airbox. I’ll probably bolt it all back up and keep the new item for next winter as I’m only likely to do around 6-8k miles during the coming season. Change/not change dilemma!

The recommended change intervals are every 24k, my previous experience is that they’re way past their best, long before that.

 

[Tenforeplay]

Since I did my throttle body sync on my nearly new s10, I looked at the air filter. I thought it was a pretty nice oem piece. Getting the center rubber plug out was something else. Had to go to the manual to make sure I wasn't going to tear something up.

 

[Bmwdumptruck]

The recommended change intervals are every 24k, my previous experience is that they’re way past their best, long before that.

Checked mine when I checked my plugs and greased my coil packs at 12k. The plugs which are supposed to be changed at 12k were like new and have done another 12k quite happily. The filter was well past its best and as I‘d already bought a new one just in case, so It got replaced. I’m now on 24k and will be servicing the bike again, I’m expecting to do the filter again, will decide about the plugs when I see them. Gonna check valves if only to give myself base settings to judge future wear rates.

 

[cyclemike4]

I got into my CO settings and took them from 0 to +5. Going to test for a while but the bike really feels a lot better. My bike has always been the box of chocolate below 3000 RPM. you never know what you are going to get. During my piddling with it I did find the butterflies would sometimes hang up in the throttle bodies coming off idle and would have a big delay and then snap open. I readjusted the throttle position sensor to not let the butterflies close all the way at idle. that helped an incredible amount. I still had idle issues and coming off idle was a game of chance that I just slip the clutch and rev it to get by that area of throttle issues. Of course it made slick riding horrible. So I decided to try the CO settings. Yes the idle is much better and it comes off idle much much better and for the first time in the life of this bike I can blip the throttle on down shifts. I am going to test it a while and see how those settings work out.

 

[WJBertrand]

I do the plugs and air filter every 26,000 miles when I check valve clearances.

 

[holligl]

I do the plugs and air filter every 26,000 miles when I check valve clearances.

+1

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[Bmwdumptruck]

I do the plugs and air filter every 26,000 miles when I check valve clearances.

Can’t imagine how it must look by then. Mine was pretty black with muck at 12k, and I only ride on tarmac, although I do generally ride in all weathers etc.

 

[WJBertrand]

It’s dirty at 26K miles but not overly so. I too ride mostly pavement but do ride a couple hundred miles a year on unpaved roads. Plugs still look pretty good at that point too. I’ve never noticed a change in performance after fitting a new filter and plugs at that mileage. This tells me everything was working just fine prior.

 

[holligl]

I ride quite a few dusty roads, but have never had any thing close to really being restrictive at 26k. The dirt is clearly focused on the path of least resistance.

I also use iridium plugs which probably have a longer life.

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[Matt51F1]

I ride quite a few dusty roads, but have never had any thing close to really being restrictive at 26k. The dirt is clearly focused on the path of least resistance.

I also use iridium plugs which probably have a longer life.

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Iridium plugs definitely have a longer life. I often get over 100,000km with them.

 

[Boris]

Winter boredom usually gets the better of me and I start taking the bike apart and checking things. Once apart, I think, might as well change while I’m here.

 

[Tenforeplay]

I searched and didn’t see much about anybody wrapping their exhaust. I just got back from a little around town ride and the exhaust temp going into the can was 400f. The flow through arrow exhaust looks like it is routed closer to the oil sump than the Oem piece. I know down the road probably no issue but stop and go traffic has to cook or effect the oil temp.

 

[Sierra1]

I searched and didn’t see much about anybody wrapping their exhaust. I just got back from a little around town ride and the exhaust temp going into the can was 400f. The flow through arrow exhaust looks like it is routed closer to the oil sump than the Oem piece. I know down the road probably no issue but stop and go traffic has to cook or effect the oil temp.

I would imagine that the catalytic converter is even hotter. That's why cars start fires in tall grass. I'm gonna depend on my radiator to keep the motor cool. I don't think I've ever heard of any bike cooking its oil.

 

[MattR]

Yep, the arrow pipes don’t have cats so they run cooler than the OEM which does have them


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[cyclemike4]

I got into my CO settings and took them from 0 to +5. Going to test for a while but the bike really feels a lot better. My bike has always been the box of chocolate below 3000 RPM. you never know what you are going to get. During my piddling with it I did find the butterflies would sometimes hang up in the throttle bodies coming off idle and would have a big delay and then snap open. I readjusted the throttle position sensor to not let the butterflies close all the way at idle. that helped an incredible amount. I still had idle issues and coming off idle was a game of chance that I just slip the clutch and rev it to get by that area of throttle issues. Of course it made slick riding horrible. So I decided to try the CO settings. Yes the idle is much better and it comes off idle much much better and for the first time in the life of this bike I can blip the throttle on down shifts. I am going to test it a while and see how those settings work out.

Had to take care of some things in another town because of time I had to run interstate for about a 100 miles a couple days. At those speeds my mirrors have always had vibrations. Especially the left mirror. I couldn't tell a 18 wheeler from a 10 speed bike. I could see that something was there and I pretty much knew what it was but I could not look at it too long. Seemed to mess with my eyes. It may be a fluke but the last two days of interstate my mirrors didn't have much if any shake after the CO settings were changed. The bike feels much better and my mirrors are not shaking. Is that a win win? Funny thing my bars have never shook much if any but the mirrors did.

 

[Matt51F1]

Yep, the arrow pipes don’t have cats so they run cooler than the OEM which does have them


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That’s correct! I put a full arrow system on mine and removed the dB killer as well.
Makes some nice noise going through the hills.
People also don’t expect an adventure bike to make this noise

 

[TenereGUY]

No vehicle (motorcycle) inspection here . Road Tax €88. yearly. VRT (Vehicle Registration Tax) is €2 per cc up to 350cc + €1. per cc thereafter and also VAT (Value Added TAX) is 23% of total value of vehicle incl. VRT. This is paid by dealer and passed on to buyer. The advertised price of the motorcycle includes these charges. VRT is paid only once by original buyer.

That's outrageous and pure thievery. Taxing a tax? Plus the total taxes paid seem to be around 40% of the total cost.

 

[TenereGUY]

Installed the Arrow exhuast. They make some nice stuff!

So more and more like today riding with the new exhaust, and this might have amplified what I've experienced in the past, the idle rpm is up and down, it is not steady. My impression is a lean idle mixture. I think I'm going to sync the throttle bodies and see if the situation goes away. What is the vote on syncing and eliminating the hunting idle or do I have to go into the ecu and remap. Also I'm aware from a stop it is easy to kill the engine, today right off idle it just died without any clutch engagement.

Kinda of curious if syncing did the job as I lean towards remapping.

 

[TenereGUY]

Hold it right there, what special tool are you referring to? I would like to do a total rebuild/upgrade in the future and am gathering information.

Check out their fork rebuild tool kit (non ES) at Traxxion Dynamics suspension in Georgia. Very well priced. You'll also need the tool to hold the internals from spinning when you tighten the bolt that holds the internals in place.

 

[Tenforeplay]

Kinda of curious if syncing did the job as I lean towards remapping.

Yesterday on the around town ride, I noticed the idle rpm was more consistent. I ride in sport mode, that takes care of the appearance of lean off idle acceleration I was experiencing with touring mode. I think the off idle thing is a function of the 270 crank and the O2 sensors being down the pipe a ways and the ecu chasing it's tail trying to control things. But it is smoother at idle with the sync, really had to be, being both were turned in all the way. Sport mode takes care of the fueling off idle. I am completely happy with how it runs in sport mode. If I was going to play with the ecu I'd meld the touring and sport mode and may change a few things but I don't see the need at this moment. The engine decel is no longer a problem with removing the cat by using the arrow exhaust and I'm sure that helped the off idle and engine performance both.