What you did to your Tenere today??!!
- Thread starter biting_point
- Start date
Any idea why?
i,ve had a K&N in mine for 8 yrs now no issues at all easy to clean and put back to
rob
Boris
Well-Known Member
In the 50k miles I’ve had my bike, I’ve only used OEM air/oil filters. No negative thoughts about other brands, OEM is just convenient and up to the job.
I’ve replaced the air filter 4 times during ownership and it always comes out looking grubby, at least as dirty as MonkeyBut’s in post 17477. I also always have a fair bit of oil misting in the lower airbox. I’ve changed the filter as soon as 6500 miles and left it as long as 15000 miles. The handbook here in the UK says replace every 24k miles, IMO that’s way way too long. I reckon 10k-12k miles max is change time.
During the same time it’s had 11 oil and filter changes.
I’ve replaced the air filter 4 times during ownership and it always comes out looking grubby, at least as dirty as MonkeyBut’s in post 17477. I also always have a fair bit of oil misting in the lower airbox. I’ve changed the filter as soon as 6500 miles and left it as long as 15000 miles. The handbook here in the UK says replace every 24k miles, IMO that’s way way too long. I reckon 10k-12k miles max is change time.
During the same time it’s had 11 oil and filter changes.
MonkeyBut
Fuel Whore
Each time I've changed the air filter, it's looked the same and the little oil collector at the bottom of the airbox, always had a bit inside. I've also used OEM filters for everything. The process of cleaning, spraying, drying the K&N never appealed to me. Old filter out, new filter in, done.
lund
Well-Known Member
On a road application there is nothing wrong with a K&N air filter and if it appeals to you go for it.
In a dusty environment like dirt roads or extreme conditions they are not recommended unless a prefilter is used.
We've installed K&N air filters with prefilters in SXS that run all day long for thousands of miles with zero issues with filtering.
In the case of the S10, the OE filter will doit all and IMO a simpler solution.
In a dusty environment like dirt roads or extreme conditions they are not recommended unless a prefilter is used.
We've installed K&N air filters with prefilters in SXS that run all day long for thousands of miles with zero issues with filtering.
In the case of the S10, the OE filter will doit all and IMO a simpler solution.
I've "heard" that they don't filter as well as advertised. I don't know if there's been a "scientific test/comparison" to prove or disprove it though.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Not sure how scientific this is, but it’s enough to shake my peace of mind using a K&N:
I've used K&N in the past, on several vehicles. I remember when I got my very first one. You can see through them. Can't see through OE. At the time K&N was the king of filters. Everybody was using them. Then the articles started coming out about OE flowing more than a motor can use anyway. How, if you want to flow more air into the motor, the throttle body size has to be increased. Regardless of how much air a filter flowed, the throttle body opening could only flow so much, and OE flowed more than it could use.
Then I started seeing articles similar to the one above. Back to OE. Didn't feel any performance difference, and I felt that the filtration was very likely better, so. . . .
Then I started seeing articles similar to the one above. Back to OE. Didn't feel any performance difference, and I felt that the filtration was very likely better, so. . . .
Tenforeplay
Active Member
If you're using K&N next time you service it, take your finger and run it around the inside of the throttle bore and see if you pick up any grit.
Tenforeplay
Active Member
Whatever that first sensor in the intake with the wire is, don't think it likes it. Rings don't like the grit.
That goes in line with what my brother was saying. He doesn’t like them as they let too much air through & it upsets the fuel mixture.
Thinking about it, with the oil in them & going through a dirty environment, you can potentially end up with a sludge that stops all air. A dry filter has to be better where dust is involved.
Thanks everyone for their thoughts.
In other news: I followed the link that someone put on here for the aluminium boxes sold by AliExpress.
I thought I’d change mine over as I can’t open the side cases when the top box is in place, so I looked through the deals & the one that came is really quite good & is lined so it protects helmets when in there with a couple of pockets in the lid area for paperwork.
The locking mechanism is different to Givi and is relatively secure although I needed to drill a couple of holes in the base plate to ensure it was really locked in using the factory bolt locations.
In the end, the main change was to get a case that matched the others & would allow me to open the side cases. Fail… still can’t open them but it gives me more space to carry crap though
I thought I’d change mine over as I can’t open the side cases when the top box is in place, so I looked through the deals & the one that came is really quite good & is lined so it protects helmets when in there with a couple of pockets in the lid area for paperwork.
The locking mechanism is different to Givi and is relatively secure although I needed to drill a couple of holes in the base plate to ensure it was really locked in using the factory bolt locations.
In the end, the main change was to get a case that matched the others & would allow me to open the side cases. Fail… still can’t open them but it gives me more space to carry crap though
Thanks, appreciate the feedback.
Tenforeplay
Active Member
Here's my windshield brace setup. Used pieces around the shop. The brackets on the nav bar fit perfectly, left over from another project, it is 1/2" by the way. Used soft copper as I had a bucket of it and it would be easier to manipulate compared to aluminum, there is a little bending involved, after I straightened the tube first. Aluminum wouldn't take kindly to the crimping of the ends I don't believe. Lot of install and removal to get everything lined up, but ended up good on the first try. Would be easy to replicate. The shield is a lot more stable in the stand still, have to see what it does down the highway but I think it'll work well. I didn't take the tubes off after I got them set up as I didn't know if it was a go, someday maybe I'll remove them and do a little trimming and cleaning, or let them age on their own. Put a spacer on the forward winglet fastener to compensate for the tube behind the rear, don't want to be breaking things this early in the game. There are insulated clamps used in aviation that would work in place of the clamps I used which was my intent, but these clamps just happened to be sitting there
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Tenforeplay
Active Member
The above brace works really good. I have the tall Oem screen in the highest position and it is much steadier. That and the winglets have two thumbs up for the money.
SkunkWorks
Well-Known Member
Didn't really do anything to the bike, but I did acquire some stuff to make life in the Garage a little easier.
I never seem to have the size I need....................
Copper Washer assortments in both Metric and SAE, as well as 12mm and 14mm crush-washers
I never seem to have the size I need....................
Copper Washer assortments in both Metric and SAE, as well as 12mm and 14mm crush-washers
You must have been a Boy Scout. I would have liked that assortment during my first oil change on the SxS in AZ. The Wolverine Rmax has about 6 or 8 different drain plugs, including 2 little ones on the oil cooler lines. Naturally one of them fell into the oil container and I could not get it out. Had to run to the dealer and fork out about $8 for a replacement. The thing is, only a couple oz of oil even came out those lines. Won't even bother with them in the future. I did recover the gasket later when I drained the combination oil catcher/container.
I had my 600 mile service done today, it was nice riding home and not worrying about the RPM's as much I tried a Yamaha dealer that was 55 miles away instead of the lousy one that is 8 miles away. I'll be using the new dealer in the future. They had much better customer service and their pricing was lower. What more could one ask for.
For those local, it was Texas Motor Sports in Killeen. Super friendly, helpful and let me hang out with the tech working on my bike for a good while. Check them out. Not sure if its good or not but my 600 mile service was $244 all in, parts, labor and taxes. Compared to my BMW small services this was cheap.
I tried a Yamaha dealer that was 55 miles away instead of the lousy one that is 8 miles away. I'll be using the new dealer in the future. They had much better customer service and their pricing was lower. What more could one ask for. For those local, it was Texas Motor Sports in Killeen. Super friendly, helpful and let me hang out with the tech working on my bike for a good while. Check them out. Not sure if its good or not but my 600 mile service was $244 all in, parts, labor and taxes. Compared to my BMW small services this was cheap.