What you did to your Tenere today??!!

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
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Shipwreck said:
Actually i did not. I just assumed that with the correct speed will translate the correct distance. No? Is there anything I should know about this?
Yes, you should be aware that your odo is less accurate now. My '12 before the Speedo-healer/Gear indicator was very close with the odo, but 9% off on the speedo. After, dead on for the speedo, but significantly off on the odo.

Go ride 20 miles or so and compare with a gps or known route. Figure out the difference so you know your correction factor. For mine, my odo read a little farther before the Speedo-healer, and a little shorter after.

Hope that helps.
 

dmulk

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Well....bike is saddled and ready to head out. Heading out from San Diego, Ca today and going to spend the next week or so in the Sierra's.

Just installed Giant Loop's RTW Panniers and a Motofizz medium bag to replace the stock luggage. Also installed Rox risers and Alt-rider's upper crash bars....

Tried to attach a photo but looks like it's too large...check out my blog if you would like to see it:


https://dmulk.blogspot.com/2017/06/westoc-2017-recon-ride-06232017-07032017.html

::021::

Cheers!
<D>
 

mebgardner

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SilverBullet said:
I agree on the SAE wiring. This is what I used so my jump pack can connect direct to battery. I did it mainly to eliminate need to carry the bulky jumper clamps that attach to jump pack.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302184301017
Perfect. I was in O'Reilly Auto today looking at 10 ga. wire. For $6.00, I could not build it that cheap (tho, it is only 4 in. long).
 

SilverBullet

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mebgardner said:
Perfect. I was in O'Reilly Auto today looking at 10 ga. wire. For $6.00, I could not build it that cheap (tho, it is only 4 in. long).
You can buy them longer for a buck or two more. Make sure your jump pack uses the EC5 connector though. I have a jump pack for my car with a different plug.

Same seller has other EC5 accessories cheap also. I bought EC5 to 12V access plug, EC5 to SAE plug and extra pigtail to make a switch cable.
 

hawk281

started on a "enduro" now riding another 46 years
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loaded and ready for a ride to oregon, starting sunday. just got find a campground north of frisco. luckily i have camping maps. going to try the 96 off the 299 and north to the 199 into grants pass. from there to canyonville, and i'll flip a coin as what direction i go from there. minimum 2000 miles, by the time i get home. ::021::
 

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Don in Lodi

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hawk281 said:
loaded and ready for a ride to oregon, starting sunday. just got find a campground north of frisco. luckily i have camping maps. going to try the 96 off the 299 and north to the 199 into grants pass. from there to canyonville, and i'll flip a coin as what direction i go from there. minimum 2000 miles, by the time i get home. ::021::

An option from the coast to Grants Pass; north end of Gold Beach, a right turn just at the south end of the bridge over the Rogue River will take you through Agness, they have a post office, along the Rogue. right into Grants Pass. Great bunch of lane and a half twisties through the Coast Range. That bridge is a great photo op. I was just there a couple days ago. Great temps.
 

Checkswrecks

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mebgardner

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Checkswrecks said:
Mini Mate Compact Kamper. Here's the website for new: http://www.kompactkamptrailers.com/minimatecamper
They've been making them since the 1980s so you can find them used for less.

See posts 136 and 155 here for build and ruggedness: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2264.150
So, the final advice I read for e-brake or not, from your experience, with your setup, was: Not. (Post #153).

Interesting results / argument for using a swivel hitch, one that did not occur to me. Until, of course, presented with great evidence about why it should be used! Thank You.

What would be your advice for someone who has never pulled a trailer with a motorcycle before, and with me understanding the KompactKamper is at the limit of "heavy"? Would you advise against pulling that, as a 1st time trailer? I can hear good advice :)
 

holligl

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Wrestled on a front Mitas e-07 Dakar and repacked and torqued steering stem. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to try to re-seat the tire as I seem to have a slow leak.
 

worncog

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holligl said:
Wrestled on a front Mitas e-07 Dakar and repacked and torqued steering stem. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to try to re-seat the tire as I seem to have a slow leak.
Use more lube than usual. They can be a bitch to seat at times.
 

Checkswrecks

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mebgardner said:
So, the final advice I read for e-brake or not, from your experience, with your setup, was: Not. (Post #153).

Interesting results / argument for using a swivel hitch, one that did not occur to me. Until, of course, presented with great evidence about why it should be used! Thank You.

What would be your advice for someone who has never pulled a trailer with a motorcycle before, and with me understanding the KompactKamper is at the limit of "heavy"? Would you advise against pulling that, as a 1st time trailer? I can hear good advice :)
I don't have e-brakes.
As long as you give yourself some training runs to get the feel of a trailer you'll be fine, but the training is really necessary.

It's a lot like having a heavy passenger in starting and stopping but not very noticeable in turns. In leaving a stop, the weight requires noticeably more throttle and clutch, just like having a heavy passenger. In hard braking, a passenger or the trailer can cause the ABS to cycle and your stopping distance will be farther than you are used to so you learn quickly to anticipate and plan your stops. You learn to watch for stale traffic lights which may turn red on you, especially if cross traffic is waiting at them..

The thing to watch in turns is that the bike can easily turn hard enough to lift the inside trailer wheel with the Mini Mate. This hasn't been a problem at all for my lower wider Harbor Freight 48" cargo trailer.
 

bnschroder

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holligl said:
Wrestled on a front Mitas e-07 Dakar and repacked and torqued steering stem. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to try to re-seat the tire as I seem to have a slow leak.
Same happened to me when I mounted my Mitas. No loud pop when seating and slow leak. Re-seating the bead solved my problems.


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holligl

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holligl said:
Wrestled on a front Mitas e-07 Dakar and repacked and torqued steering stem. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to try to re-seat the tire as I seem to have a slow leak.
Rookie mistake - I replaced the valve stem with a T-stem I got from the previous owner (Using Stem Mounted TPMS, so this lets you adjust air w/o removing TPMS). Put the Gasket on the inside of the rim instead of the outside. Learned that lesson the hard way!

Rear mounted much easier today after re-doing the front. Front needed no re-balancing. Need to get a couple weights for the rear.
 

holligl

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holligl said:
Rear mounted much easier today after re-doing the front. Front needed no re-balancing. Need to get a couple weights for the rear.
Kudos to Discount Tire who just handed me 12ea 0.25 oz of stick on weights, no charge. (O'Reilly's wanted $14 for their smallest package.) Used two to finish balancing, and then reinstalled. Only problem was figuring out where a 4-5" tube came from, as it was not part on the tear down inventory. I used the trick of using the axle from the pumpkin side to help align the hub splines. In the process I knocked the pumpkin "collar" out of the pumpkin. All together now and road tested. Combination of new tires and steering lube/torque has a much more nimble feel. Old rear BattleWing was pretty squared.
 

MBJST

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Today, I did the '14 clutch on my '12 along with the Barnett pressure plate. Like everyone else, oh what a difference! Great farkel.

On another note, I usually use silicone spray for lube when mounting tires. It is a good lube and is good for the rubber. It has worked well for me for years. Even on tubless MTB tires that can be hard to get to seat. i used to use AF & water, but silicone works better. Just another option.
 

holligl

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MBJST said:
On another note, I usually use silicone spray for lube when mounting tires. It is a good lube and is good for the rubber. It has worked well for me for years. Even on tubless MTB tires that can be hard to get to seat. i used to use AF & water, but silicone works better. Just another option.
Thanks for that suggestion. It seems to be something you get better at with experience.
 

Grumpy

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Oil change and a pre flight check. Now loaded and ready for a 12 day run to the Italien and Swiss Alps via Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany and Austria. Then home through France. Set off at 5am tomorrow, UK time.
 
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