What Grade of fuel are you using?

eheal6520

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Ok Gang, here is a good article that explains the difference between regular and premium gas. It also explains exactly what "Knocking" is. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=fact-or-fiction-premium-g

As for the S10 (US anyway) on page 4-20 of the manual it reads, "Recommended fuel: Premium unleaded gasoline only" On the same page it also states this about Ethanol. "Gasohol containing ethanol can be used if the ethanol content does not exceed 10%. Gasohol containing methanol is not recommended by Yamaha because it can cause damage to the fuel system or vehicle performance problems".

Our engines are high compression engines (11:1 compression ratio, page 9-1) so according to the article it is better to run premium to lessen the likelyhood of knocking.

Personally, the extra money spent on gas should, all things being equal, give me longer engine life and keep me on the road instead of in the shop. While I enjoy working on my bike, I enjoy riding it better!

Draw your own conclusions and ride till your eyes bug out! ???
 

GrahamD

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baldone said:
Our engines are high compression engines (11:1 compression ratio, page 9-1) so according to the article it is better to run premium to lessen the likelyhood of knocking.

Personally, the extra money spent on gas should, all things being equal, give me longer engine life and keep me on the road instead of in the shop. While I enjoy working on my bike, I enjoy riding it better!
Yeah Agree. The premium blends according to the manufacturers have way more cleaning agents and "look after the chamber stuff" in them to make them worth using.

If you get similar "cents per K/m" out of premium then by all means use it. Just don't stress if you have to use something less "clean". We are lucky enough to have some good low octane fuel where I live, so if that's all I can get I'll be fine unless it's 40C outside then I'm a bit reluctant. But the 95/98 RON range should be pretty good.

My local pumps only have 95 available so I use that. If I am heading past a 98 Pump I will use that for a while. If I am stuck in Kickatinalong and mu only choice is 91RON I'll use that until the next big town. If this bike can't cope with a bit of that It's the wrong bike for my country. Sometimes my only choice is 91RON and diesel.

Cheers
Graham
 

Tremor38

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Re: Re: What Grade of fuel are you using?

GrahamD said:
Sometimes my only choice is 91RON and diesel.

Cheers
Graham
I usually opt for diesel. Very good gas mileage, but not much range before I'm tuckered out.
 

Checkswrecks

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Data to play with

I write down every fill-up, keep it on a spreadsheet, and have run a half dozen tankfuls of each at a time to offset mixing in the first change. Most of this data is from commuting and general use, not from running hard. My mpg info is from doing the math, not relying on the bike's AVG MPG display. Because the price per gallon goes up and down so much I don't record that. So here is some data from the last couple thousand miles of use on a bike that has over 10k miles.


The 93 (super) costs an average of $16.228 per fill, gets an average of 45.234 mpg, resulting in 2.7874 as the mpg per dollar.
The 87 (regular) costs an average of $18.378 per fill, gets an average of 46.480 mpg, resulting in 2.5291 as the mpg per dollar.


The cost difference is 9.3% and the difference in mpg is negligible.


So for commuting & general use in the area when it's cool I generally run regular.
If it's a hot day (as in all summer here), I have a load on the bike, or am going out with others and may run high revs, I will fill with super.
 

oldtramp

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I had AF-1 progam mine to run on 85-90 it seems run well on any grade now. I left the intake and exhust stock. I sure do miss real old fashion gasoline.This stuff they call fuel doesnt seem to have a very long shelf life. I have been using startron fuel stabilizer for a while and have had good luck with it. It is hard to find non ethanol fuel around hear I live in the midwest and this is corn country. In fact alot of the farmers around hear are removing little patchs of trees where ever they can so they can plant more corn. I cant blame them its how they make a living, the goverment helps drive this madness, forgive Iam off topic. I bought some race gas last year for the pro street bike it was close to 10.00 a gallon. I would like to run a little blend of that threw the s10 and see how she runs.

On a different note the other day I had a friend ride the s 10 while I got on my hands and knees and tried to get my head as close to the motor as possible. I can her a slight ping or knock when whacking the throttle wide open while ideling along in 1st gear 90 oct fuel and traction contrl off in sport mode, not always and never hear it with my helmet on. I remember reading on engine noise somebody said dont worry ride it we got warranty
 

bvail

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Well, I've been fueling up my various vehicles for over 50 years now and I have been using the 'cheap' stuff on the left button all this time with no ill effects. Didn't use Ethyl either back in the day :D

News flash...it's not that super high octane is not available here in the mountain west, it's not needed, due to our altitude. I'm using 85-87 octane here in everything, including my lawnmowers, leaf blowers and weed whips. Nothing has blown up or carboned up yet...still waiting. Maybe I'm just lucky.

But enough of this ::002:: Now to the important stuff. Do you change your crush washers every 3,000 miles or just wait for them to wear out and leak? Use nothing but exotic Scamsoil or just generic Rotella diesel available at your local Wallyworld? And don't get me started on filters ::009::

p.s. So called 'Premium' gasoline (IMHO) is an oxymoron. Not premium, just burns slower and a bit cooler for less or no predetonation.

p.p.s. Yamaha recommends 'unleaded' premium gasoline only. Question: Where in the hell does one find leaded gas anyways? Does the term 'unleaded' mean that there was once lead in the gas and it has been removed - kind of like 2% milk? I really have no fear that one day I will accidently fill my tank with leaded gas and if that were to happen, I doubt if the engine would blow. Might not be healthy for the catcon though ;D

In the meantime, I will be using the cheap stuff and will post when one of my engines blows....
 

IBJanky

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bvail said:
Well, I've been fueling up my various vehicles for over 50 years now and I have been using the 'cheap' stuff on the left button all this time with no ill effects. Didn't use Ethyl either back in the day :D

News flash...it's not that super high octane is not available here in the mountain west, it's not needed, due to our altitude. I'm using 85-87 octane here in everything, including my lawnmowers, leaf blowers and weed whips. Nothing has blown up or carboned up yet...still waiting. Maybe I'm just lucky.

But enough of this ::002:: Now to the important stuff. Do you change your crush washers every 3,000 miles or just wait for them to wear out and leak? Use nothing but exotic Scamsoil or just generic Rotella diesel available at your local Wallyworld? And don't get me started on filters ::009::

p.s. So called 'Premium' gasoline (IMHO) is an oxymoron. Not premium, just burns slower and a bit cooler for less or no predetonation.

p.p.s. Yamaha recommends 'unleaded' premium gasoline only. Question: Where in the hell does one find leaded gas anyways? Does the term 'unleaded' mean that there was once lead in the gas and it has been removed - kind of like 2% milk? I really have no fear that one day I will accidently fill my tank with leaded gas and if that were to happen, I doubt if the engine would blow. Might not be healthy for the catcon though ;D

In the meantime, I will be using the cheap stuff and will post when one of my engines blows....
I like the way you think :)

myke
 

bvail

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Thanks Myke, I usually think with tongue planted squarely in cheek ;) more fun if you don't take life too seriously... 8)

BTW, looking at your avatar, you're a 'sharp dressed man'...just hope that ain't your riding suit... ::025::
 

avc8130

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With regards to filling with leaded gas...you catalytic converter would be what hated you.

I guess I am trying my first tank of regular. I stopped at the fuel station and told the attendant I wanted premium (full serve ONLY in NJ). By the time I realized that Saddam had pushed the regular button I was 4.5 gallons in.

I'm sure it won't matter. I still plan to stick with the premium from here on out. Yamaha recommends it, and I did some quick math and it looks like over 10k miles I would save only ~$100 running regular vice premium.
ac
 

STPanther

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New S10 owner here and I made my first tank fill with 91 (no ethanol) this week. Figured I would at least use 91 for the break in period.

I just came from owning '07 Honda ST1300 (4 cylinder) and I generally ran 89 w/10% ethanol without any problems. Every once in a while I would give her the good juice. Glad I read this thread, because I was wondering what others were running with the two cyclinder S10 engine.
 

roy

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I ran a tank of 87 and it seemd ok in the cooler morning hours but in the afternoon heat it pinged and ran rough. I went to 89 on the next tank and so far it seems to run just as good in cooler mornings and hotter evening commutes. It did stall once on the 89 and it has never stalled on the higher octane. I bet when it gets real hot and humid down here I'll have to run the 92-93 octane or it'll run bad. Anyway it was an experiment worth trying. Not saving a whole bunch running 87/89 over 92/93 so I'll buy what ever is available at the time.
 

GrahamD

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dcc46 said:
Locally I can get 92 octane with 10% ethanol or 90 octane with no ethanol. Which is better for the bike and why?
I don't particularly worry about ethanol, because frankly the problems have been overblown. Every problem that anyone gets is now blamed on ethanol regardless of the cause. Some problems, especially in older vehicles may be related. If a manufacturer uses ethanol unsafe products in the fuel system these days they should be "sacked".

There are two things to worry about RON/AKI and detergent combustion enhancers. It is quite conceivable that you can have a low "octane" fuel that has good detergent cleaning properties but usually the low octane fuel is usually marketed as cheap fuel which means it also misses out on the extra good stuff because it is generally the price leader.

Ethanol on its own has a RON figure about 105, so is often used to boost octane ratings. You may find that what you get above is the same fuel, except the E10 blend is using the E as an octane booster. Ethanol also has some cleaning properties AND will absorb some moisture from fuel.

So there are two things going on here. The higher octane fuels will reduce knocking (short term damage) and the detergents and anti gumming agents reduce long term "cholesterol build up" in the fuel system. So using a higher detergent fuel with a high enough octane rating for your engine will be best long term.

It is very safe to use 98RON with no ethanol. The engine will stay clean and will probably never suffer pre-ignition even if the fuel has been sitting for a long time and some volatiles have been "blown off".

However here are some general things about fuels..

A higher octane fuel has less energy per litre available GENERALLY than a low octane fuel. (Ethanol is a good example of this)
Ethanol will cool the intake charge to the engine more than most of the other compounds in fuel.
A high detergent low octane fuel is hard to find.
The compression ratio is an indicator of the compressed gas temperature at TDC. Higher comp engines make the fuel air charge hotter when compressed than lower comp engines so as the outside air temp increases the compressed charge also gets hotter so the hotter it is outside the more important the octane rating is to prevent this. When I say outside I mean outside the combustion chamber, which includes the cooling jacket etc.
Maximum chamber temperature is reached at WOT AND only certain RPM. Generally lower RPM.
Higher octane fuels resist detonation for higher temps.

Here is a very basic breakdown on what fuel might contain..

http://firstfuelbank.com/msds/Tesoro.pdf
Code:
Gasoline 8006-61-9 100 300 900 300
Contains or may contain:
Toluene (a,b,c,e,f,g) 108-88-3 0 - 35 200 50 Yes 1000
Xylene (mixed) (a,b,c) 1330-20-7 0 - 25 100 435 100 Yes 1000
Pentane 109-66-0 0 - 20 1000 2950 600
Trimethylbenzenes, mixed isomers (a) 25551-13-7 0 - 4 25 Yes
Benzene (a,b,c,d,e,f) 71-43-2 0 - 5 1 0.5 Yes 10
Butane 106-97-8 0 - 12 800 1900 800
Ethylbenzene (a,c) 100-41-4 0 - 5 100 435 125 545 Yes 1000
Heptane 142-82-5 0 - 2 500 2000 400
Cyclohexane (a,b,c) 110-82-7 0 - 5 300 1050 300 Yes 1000
n-Hexane 110-54-3 0 - 8 500 1800 50 176
n-Octane 111-65-9 0 - 1 500 2350 300 1400
Ethanol 64-17-5 0 - 20 1000 1900 1000
Naphthalene (a,b,c,g) 91-20-3 0 - 1.1 10 50 10 Yes 100
Trimethylbenzene 1,2,4 (a) 95-63-6 0 - 7 25 125 Yes
Isopentane 78-78-4 0 - 20 not established
Styrene (a,c,d,e,g) 100-42-5 0 - 4 100 20 Yes 1000
Methyl tert - butyl ether (a) 1634-04-4 0 - 18 40 144 Yes
Ethyl tert - butyl ether 637-92-3 0 - 21 not established
Tertiary - Amyl methyl ether 994-05-8 0 - 20 not established
Alkanes, Cycloalkanes, Alkenes, Aromatic hydrocarbons balance
(b) Indicates that the Resource Conservation and Recovery Act (RCRA) has determined the waste for this chemical is listed as hazardous and must be handled
There are about 500 compounds in fuel and all fuels vary. Fuel mixing is still one of the great arts.

So, armed with that info you decide. All I can say is that I run the bike on good fuel and when I can't get it I don't stress too much. I don't stress too much about ethanol except when I think the "gas" station has got a high chance of old fuel OR has been wet recently. In fact any fuel is in danger from water contamination in floods.

Many bikes these days used with good oils and serviced regularly will last 200,000 miles, especially these big low revving beasts. Will you be running this bike that long or will it be traded at 40,000 miles?

Very complicated, but YAMAHA recommend using premium because it is an easy and safe recommendation.
 

dcc46

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Thanks GRAHAMD for taking the time to write that. ::008:: I never thought I knew much about fuel , and now I realize I knew even less than that.
 

GrahamD

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Ok I should add,

91RON (87AKI) will be marginal on this bike in hot weather but should be fine in cold as long as you are not lugging at WOT.

In climates that vary a lot you have summer blends (less volatiles) and winter blends (usually more ether) to help starting performance in very cold temps.

In Australia, we have a petrol sniffing problem in remote communities to there is a low volatile fuel called OPAL blend, 91RON but with some of the more dangerous and highly aromatic compounds removed. Plenty of people have run that fuel on the S10 in Australia but you have to be a bit careful that you don't go crazy with the throttle at low revs. Sports bikes with 12:1 compression ratios do not like the stuff. My Strom at 11:1 would cope on a hot day but you could tell it was about as far as you could push it.

That's why I generally use 95RON. It has cleaning agents and its got a buffer of 4RON and is fine in hot and cold weather. I found 98 in the STrom a bit "Wheezy" but the S10 doesn't seem to notice. The Strom had an open FI system so had no way of adjusting anything.
 
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