Valve Adjustment Help Please

Matt51F1

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The intervention on the valves would not affect the ABS...but he said that his next intervention was to change the rear pads and the rear tire...and since the loss of the rear brake usually it's related with the change of rear pads, that is why i warn to loosen the bleeders to avoid brake fluid backflow
View attachment 107701
Right! I wondered if I had missed something… and I had!
 

Champ

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Corinth KY
So I am noticing after taking a ride today to me Valve ticking seems a little more than it was before my valve job I’m assuming because tolerances are looser now. It gets louder as it warms up pretty quiet on a cold start.
 

Champ

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It’s kind of annoying. I’m used to a Goldwing
makes you feel like something is wrong
Is this normal for these bikes
After looking at some other posts that seems to be the case
 
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OldRider

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So I am noticing after taking a ride today to me Valve ticking seems a little more than it was before my valve job I’m assuming because tolerances are looser now. It gets louder as it warms up pretty quiet on a cold start.
Shim type valves don't rattle like rocker arms with screw adjusters. If you can hear a rattle, my money says it's the cam chain.
 

Champ

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It a ticking not a rattle I will share a video

 

Champ

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I just found a video from the guy who sold me the bike a month ago. It sounds the same as it did before the valve adjustment. I think after doing all that work I’m listening more to the engine sounds
It’s running great
 

Jlq1969

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If you want to identify the knocking exactly...make yourself a stethoscope with a rubber hose. You place it on the valve cover and you can focus the knocking…..
And the oil??….what oil grade are you using?
 

Champ

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Thanks. Im not far from Rabbit hash. Let me know if you are taking a ride out that way.
I also noticed that these bike are recommended to run premium gas. I have put two tanks of 87. I missed the premium recommendation in the manual.:rolleyes: I will try the premium to see if that helps any. I usually want to run what is recommended.
 

Matt51F1

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I run premium unless it’s not available but have never been able to notice any difference when using regular 87.
Harbor Freight usually has nice stethoscopes reasonably priced
You could buy a stethoscope or use the backyard mechanic version of a piece of wood which works extremely well.
A piece of dowel in various parts of the motor will transfer the sound to your ear.
 

holligl

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It’s “best” to have them all in the middle. If your in changing 1-2, why not do them all and have it the best it could be…? It’s surprising how much better it runs……..
I have tended to go to the higher side of the spec, as my exhaust have always gotten tighter and I have always had some, if not all too tight by the next check. Going with larger gaps will keep them in the spec range longer. My butt is not sensitive enough to tell a difference in performance. I try to keep records on wear rates to predict what shims I will likely need and when they may go out of spec.

Given the Bottom spec range and 26,600 interval, I've wondered what is the tightest measurement anyone has measured? I had one at .11 two checks ago. Last check worst was .203.
 

Champ

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That’s why I went to .28 on my one exhaust that was at .21. With the shims I had with .5 increments I would have only gotten it to .23 because of the shim size that was in there. I figured I would rather be higher than lower . I did get all the rest in the mid to higher mid range. Bike runs great and power is fine
Definitely better idle and throttle response
 

Champ

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I wondered about that. I have a motion pro syncing tool that I used to do my old Suzuki's with that had 4 carbs on them. Im assuming this is a lot easier. I will have to see how to do that.
 

Matt51F1

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I wondered about that. I have a motion pro syncing tool that I used to do my old Suzuki's with that had 4 carbs on them. Im assuming this is a lot easier. I will have to see how to do that.
Very easy to do. Manual gives full details on how to do it
 
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